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#1
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![]() So I've a good idea on how to plumb in the header tank for the car. I want a T piece on the hose going between the thermostat and water pump bypass (B) and I would have thought this T piece goes to C. I assume E is the overflow and this goes to the floor? So that means that D and A are connected together then?
If anyone can help out as I don't want to route all the hoses neatly only to find its all wrong! ![]() |
#2
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![]() If that's an RS2000 DOHC engine then point (B) is the heater feed. (heater return is the stub pipe above the water pump housing in the block.)
You may need to put in a restricter at outlet (B) and connect the hose from the stub above the water pump to (B) and (C). Connect (A) to (D) as position (A) is the degas point. Be very careful with this connetion on the thermostat housing as they get pretty brittle and there are no Ford spares left ![]() ![]() Connect the small hose connection at or near top of Radiator to (E). There is no overflow with this type of header tank as it's a sealed system. BV. ![]() Last edited by Big Vern : 30th June 2010 at 01:06 AM. |
#3
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![]() Don't quite follow what you mean by a restrictor at B? That hose at B currently runs straight down to the stub above the water pump. I was thinking of putting a T piece on that hose and plumbing it into C on the header.
How come E has to be connected at the radiator? Couldn't I just connect it anywhere to the top hose? Edit: my radiator doesn't have a bleed connector on it. Last edited by deezee : 30th June 2010 at 09:01 AM. |
#4
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![]() Aye, exactly which engine is it?
For reference I run a zetec, exactly the same header tank, so, C goes to the bottom hose (seperate from the bypass hose) E goes to the top of the thermostat (bleed) and D goes to the top of the rad (bleed). Hope that helps. LG, Steve |
#5
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![]() As Big Vern guessed its the Frankenstein RS2000 DOHC 16V. Do I really need a 2nd bleed off the radiator? Can I just use the one off the thermostat? I just want to try and simplify the system so I don't have loads of hoses zig zagging around the engine.
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#6
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![]() My tank is under the nose cone in front of the engine. When I lift the bonnet off the cap is right there
![]() That way the connection to bottom hose is short and the two breathers just run forwards to the rad and back to the thermostat housing. Simples. ![]() ![]() Steve |
#7
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![]() Quote:
![]() The restrictor is to simulate the flow restriction normally caused by the heater matrix which would be in circuit between point B and the stub by the water pump. You need to vent the top of the radiator and the 'degas' pipe on the thermostat housing to a header tank which needs to be the highest point of the cooling system to prevent air locks in the system. HTH BV. ![]() |
#8
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![]() Its reassuring, if nothing else, to talk to someone with experience on the engine. I got the engine solely because of its power and 1991 date stamp. I sometimes wish I never bothered! Wish I picked up the RS Turbo engine out the other Escort now.
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#9
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![]() Don't get me wrong, the RS2 engine is basically a good engine and with a good inlet and exhaust system it will give the old 2.8 capri engine a good run for it's money.
![]() It's a little lighter than a boat anchor pinto and you start out with 50% more power. Things to watch out for are air locks in the cooling system which will cause cracked heads, and melted pistons on the 2.3's The timing chain guide rubbing strips can wear and be a problem but that goes for all versions of the DOHC engine (and all ford Duratorq diesels for that matter) Other than that there are no real vices and with it's decent porting it's capable of producing a lot more power than a Zetec. (240+bhp @7800rpm) ![]() BV ![]() |
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