Break Pressure switch

[Dave F]

Hi all.
I know the what most have seem to do it is use a 'T' piece but I was wondering if there is any reason I could't use one of these: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/152207740920 I'm using the standard MX5 master cyclinder and on front nearside output there is a reducer/adaptor with a banjo bolt which my plan is to replace with this. I'm also thinking a similar setup for the clutch which had a wilwood style MC, that, I'm not 100% on yet.
As always your advice is apreciated

[garyout]

Morning

I think most people fit a normal switch instead of a hydraulic one as they require a bit more effort to bring the light on. I'm sure others will be along soon with there opinion.

Gary

[norton]

I have one that's actuated by fluid pressure and there is a delay between putting the brakes on and the switch connecting. I do plan to get rid of it and fit a conventional mechanical switch despite the added aggro.

If I was an IVA tester I wouldn't pass it.

[garyt]

Hi I used a mini one into a T piece on its side, clear as mud !!!! Brake fluid north / south pressure switch horizontal as if upright can hold air
No noticeable delay in braking to lights on
Oh and I separated the reservoir from my m/c ( mx5) and remotely mounted it on the o/s top rail made bleeding the brakes a dawdle after trying allmanner of things previously ( pictures in my build thread)

[Dave F]

Originally Posted by garyt

Hi I used a mini one into a T piece on its side, clear as mud !!!! Brake fluid north / south pressure switch horizontal as if upright can hold air
No noticeable delay in braking to lights on
Oh and I separated the reservoir from my m/c ( mx5) and remotely mounted it on the o/s top rail made bleeding the brakes a dawdle after trying allmanner of things previously ( pictures in my build thread)

I'm going to do that setup for my clutch now as finding the correct tread size is proving more hassle than it's worth. I too was planning to place the reservoir high, interested how you did it, I was thinking some barbed connectors to 8mm fuel pipe, any thoughts?

Originally Posted by garyout

Dave

I do agree I have used them switches on bikes ideal for when fitting rear sets.. your have to let me know how it goes as my pedal set up will be pita to get a mechanical switch on

Gary

Will let you know but will be a while as need to order the flexi's once all the coppers in.

[garyt]

Yes that's what I used barbed connectors and flexi pipe to the reservoir
Yes it was a strange thread on the clutch m/c I think it was std on the slave but the rally design one on the bulkhead was something like 7/16
Will have a look and see if I still have the sizes of the phone but will see if I can pop a pic up later

[Dave F]

Originally Posted by garyout

Morning
I think most people fit a normal switch instead of a hydraulic one as they require a bit more effort to bring the light on. I'm sure others will be along soon with there opinion.
Gary

I was thinking about a mechanical switch but not the easiest with my pedal box design.

Originally Posted by norton

I have one that's actuated by fluid pressure and there is a delay between putting the brakes on and the switch connecting. I do plan to get rid of it and fit a conventional mechanical switch despite the added aggro.

If I was an IVA tester I wouldn't pass it.

I've had many bikes with these on and they require very little pressure and have zero delay so hopefully that's not going to be an issue, maybe the mini ones require more pressure. This is my thinking anyway

[garyout]

Dave

I do agree I have used them switches on bikes ideal for when fitting rear sets.. your have to let me know how it goes as my pedal set up will be pita to get a mechanical switch on

Gary