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  #1  
Old 24th August 2014, 10:49 PM
JasonL JasonL is offline
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Default MX5 Donor - How much can I use?

Hi Everyone,

This is my first post. I picked up a 1995 MX5 1.8 last month that someone started to strip a few years ago. Only 65k on the clock and I am trying to maximise how much I reuse from it. Planning on using everything I can, including the wiring loom, etc.

I was wondering if anyone has any advice?

One specific thing I was wondering is if anyone has tried using the fuel pump and sender assembly because I presume it would require a custom tank?!?

J
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  #2  
Old 25th August 2014, 07:23 AM
fangorn fangorn is offline
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Location: Auckland,NewZealand
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Thumbs up MX5 Donor.

Hi Jason, I totally stripped my MX5 and will be using the: engine, gearbox, diff,rear axles, front & rear uprights, wiring loom and computer, steering column, brakes including the master cyl., driveshaft(shortened)and handbrake lever & cables. The rest will be scratch built to the Haynes plans. I tacked together my frame and it is being fully welded by an experienced welding friend. I have made my suspension frames and had them TIG welded( I need to get them crack tested as per New Zealand transport rules) Can,t wait to get my frame back. Our winter is coming to an end !! so the weather should be warming up. Good luck as you start your LOOOOOONG journey. Cheers, Ken.
Quote:
Originally Posted by JasonL View Post
Hi Everyone,

This is my first post. I picked up a 1995 MX5 1.8 last month that someone started to strip a few years ago. Only 65k on the clock and I am trying to maximise how much I reuse from it. Planning on using everything I can, including the wiring loom, etc.

I was wondering if anyone has any advice?

One specific thing I was wondering is if anyone has tried using the fuel pump and sender assembly because I presume it would require a custom tank?!?

J
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  #3  
Old 25th August 2014, 10:33 AM
PorkChop PorkChop is offline
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Welcome

Make sure you undo the hub nuts if you're going to refurb the driveshafts/uprights while they're still fitted on the car; it's a lot easier! The front nuts are an unusual size (29mm), the rear nuts can be 29 or 32mm depending on the car.

The whole rear section can be a PITA; the driveshafts can get properly stuck in the uprights and the lower wishbone to upright bolt is exposed, so removal a lot of the time can be problematic.

You'll most likely have an issue with the steering rack fouling the front lower wishbones at full lock and droop; there's lots of examples over in the States where the Miata has been a popular donor car for a lot longer than over here. There are several ways to fix it, which are covered on the forum.

You'll need a custom tank anyway, you can use the MX-5 sender and pump, you might need to modify it. Someone might even have a MX-5 tank for sale

Where in the world are you?
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  #4  
Old 25th August 2014, 11:03 AM
JasonL JasonL is offline
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Thanks for the input guys!

I'm in the UK. I'll make sure I plan for plenty of time for the rear end and I'll look at the steering rack issue. This is a long term project, so I'm not in a hurry.

Sorry, I wasn't suggesting that I thought I could use the donor's tank. The pump and sender assembly both sit in the tank, so the two options in the Haynes manual wouldn't work.

Any ideas where I can pick up an MX5-ready tank?

I'm thinking of using Phil's TMXR chassis and wishbones because I'm not confident enough in my welding skills and I don't have any friends who are.

J
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  #5  
Old 25th August 2014, 11:15 AM
PorkChop PorkChop is offline
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If you get a TMXR chassis and bones then I doubt you'll have an issue with the uprights; Phil is well aware of the issue and supplies wishbones which have a cranked leading arm to clear the rack for people building a book chassis.

I guessed you were in the UK, but it's still a pretty big place

I have a new and unused MX-5 specific tank for sale the sender/pump assembly will need modifying, but I think that's covered on the forum. Failing that, there are a number of people who will make a tank to your requirements, for example K4KEV on here did/does tanks (the tank I have for sale is one of his).
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  #6  
Old 25th August 2014, 11:22 AM
JasonL JasonL is offline
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Sorry, should've said I'm in Warwick. I'll PM about the tank.
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  #7  
Old 1st November 2014, 10:11 AM
JasonL JasonL is offline
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Default Rear lower wishbone to upright bolt

Quote:
Originally Posted by PorkChop View Post
Welcome

Make sure you undo the hub nuts if you're going to refurb the driveshafts/uprights while they're still fitted on the car; it's a lot easier! The front nuts are an unusual size (29mm), the rear nuts can be 29 or 32mm depending on the car.

The whole rear section can be a PITA; the driveshafts can get properly stuck in the uprights and the lower wishbone to upright bolt is exposed, so removal a lot of the time can be problematic.

You'll most likely have an issue with the steering rack fouling the front lower wishbones at full lock and droop; there's lots of examples over in the States where the Miata has been a popular donor car for a lot longer than over here. There are several ways to fix it, which are covered on the forum.

You'll need a custom tank anyway, you can use the MX-5 sender and pump, you might need to modify it. Someone might even have a MX-5 tank for sale

Where in the world are you?
PorkChop,

How did you get the bolt out in the end? My donor has only done 65k, so thought it would be easy, but it's a real bitch. It's basically swimming in WD40, trying to turn it to loosen the damn thing (limited success) and I've even tried a sledge, but that's just damaging the end of the bolt.
Any suggestions welcome.

J
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  #8  
Old 1st November 2014, 10:26 AM
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Stot Stot is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JasonL View Post
PorkChop,

How did you get the bolt out in the end? My donor has only done 65k, so thought it would be easy, but it's a real bitch. It's basically swimming in WD40, trying to turn it to loosen the damn thing (limited success) and I've even tried a sledge, but that's just damaging the end of the bolt.
Any suggestions welcome.

J
I cut mine off carefully with an angle grinder then pushed the bolt out on a 12 ton press to break the friction then hammered it out with a drift.






Cheers
Stot
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  #9  
Old 1st November 2014, 11:01 AM
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CTWV50 CTWV50 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JasonL View Post
PorkChop,

How did you get the bolt out in the end? My donor has only done 65k, so thought it would be easy, but it's a real bitch. It's basically swimming in WD40, trying to turn it to loosen the damn thing (limited success) and I've even tried a sledge, but that's just damaging the end of the bolt.
Any suggestions welcome.

J
I bought a good one off eBay! And cut the rest of the hub off driveshaft carefully.
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  #10  
Old 2nd November 2014, 09:03 AM
JasonL JasonL is offline
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Thanks Guys.

I was about to start cutting, but decided to try shock and unlock from Halfords and work it loose with a tyre iron (ironically the right size). Used a piece of the exhaust pipe for leverage and it did the trick, probably because the donor hadn't done that many miles.

Thanks again.

J
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