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#1
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Steering column extension
Afternoon all,
I've searched on here and on locostbuilders/the net generally but can't find anything definitive. What is the best solution for the column extension? I know the book says to chop the donor column and extend with tube, but I've read that others have used a couple of UJs and splined shaft (chopped and sleeved to suit) from rally design to make a new one. If using the donor column is good enough, where do I cut? I've marked a pic up with red and green... Also what size ID and thickness tube? Cheers Eddy |
#2
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Hi Eddy,
As I had the same question one year or so ago, I will try to reply. If you have more than 2 UJ's, you will need a bearing to hold one part of your column. Keep in mind that the lower flexible part of the Sierra steering column (the one with the rubber piece) which connects onto the rack is considered as a UJ. I also wanted to use 2 splines shafts, connected with a UJ, and a bearing, but I gave up on that considering the troubles : the total cost, the installation of the bearing, and so on. If you want, Rally Design sells 380mm long splined shafts, which are a bit long to my mind (my extension was 610mm only), but of course, it depends of the angle you'll have between the 2 half-shafts. They also have UJ's. If you want to do that, for your inspiration, you can see a very neat installation of 2 shafts + central UJ + bearing on JanneE's build thread for example. http://www.haynes.co.uk/forums/showt...hlight=Janne+E On my side, I finally decided to do as explained in the book. The diameter of the lower part of the Sierra steering column you'll cut is 9/16'' = almost 15mm. So the tube you'll need for your extension will need to have a ID of 15mm. My supplier had only 5mm wall, so that is what I used (OD is quite big: 25mm, it is pretty close to U1, about 5mm, but it fits), but I'm pretty sure other builders used 3 or 4mm wall only. Also, it is better to use a seamless tube. Here is how it looks: 2013-06-02_17-03-14 par Voucht71, sur Flickr 2013-06-02_17-03-30 par Voucht71, sur Flickr 2013-06-02_17-03-21 par Voucht71, sur Flickr Hope this will help
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Sylvain Pictures of my completed Roadster https://www.flickr.com/photos/994983...7646799525542/ Build blog: http://vouchtroadster.blogspot.se/ https://cafrazx550.blogspot.com/ |
#3
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Thats a perfect answer, thanks so much for taking the time. Should help people in the future as well as me
I think I was getting confused, thinking I only cut one part to extend, whereas - if I understand correctly - I cut both parts. I'll start the hunt for some appropriate tube Thanks again Eddy |
#4
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In my view the only reason to go with more than a pair of UJs is if something is getting in the way of the straight shaft that voucht and I have. This is often the engine leg, intake manifold, alternator, etc.
Looks like your shaft is a bit different than the one that Sylvain and I have. Any of the places you marked will do, I guess. Perhaps green is better as the shaft passes pretty close to the tube the suspension bracket is welded on (read: 3-4 mm clearance with ø25 tube). Also, it's possible that you'll have radiator hoses passing around the rack, so it's better to keep the flappy part away from these tight spots.
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Albert Haynes Roadster FAQ | Haynes Builder Locations Gallery, build thread in Lithuanian / via Google Translate. |
#5
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I think mine is a bit different - The parts where I'd be cutting, from memory, would be thicker than 15mm diameter, meaning the sleeving tube would need to be larger. Given that its already close to the upright, this might be a problem.
Should I consider buying something like the column in this link: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/FORD-SIERR...item46121076b4 |
#6
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I recall reading somewhere recently that MK make or will make a one piece shaft to fit for I think 40 GBP. Maybe worth considering and looking into.
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