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#1
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![]() Hi
I have a question for Chris, and anyone that wants to answer. I have just realized the chassis plates CP10 ( diff mounting bracket, plate)should be made out of 5mm plate. I have made mine from 3mm ![]() My question is this: Do I leave them as they are or cut them out and replace with 5mm I could double up the 3mm plate but would only be welded on one side. I do have an extra bracket on RS6 holding the back of the diff. So would help holding the diff in place. ![]()
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. . David. Heaven, Warm days and Cool rides ![]() |
#2
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![]() Its a very good thing you mentioned that...i was making mine out of 3mm plate. Luckily they havent been finished yet
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1.8 Silvertop Zetec (ZX6R Carbs + Megajolt) + Type 9 My Build Blog: http://www.haynes.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?t=2736 - Last Update: 31st October 2020 Total Spent so far: Stopped counting ![]() |
#3
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![]() nope you will need to chop it out and put a 5mm one in. there is a lot of strain going through that plate so don't even risk it.
that 2.0 is going to kick out quite a bit more power Last edited by AshG : 18th January 2010 at 06:16 PM. |
#4
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![]() Hi David,
sorry if its not what you want to hear but i,d agree with Ash on this one, even with your back attachment, for peace of mind change it to 5mm, you,ll always be worrying about it when driving ![]() cheers andy |
#5
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![]() Here's a picture of a Caterham chassis, showing what forces are at work in this area.
![]() Kind regards John
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Quality parts for the Haynes Roadster - manufactured to a standard, not down to a price. Contact us at component-sales@hotmail.co.uk or visit our website www.3gecomponents.com
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#6
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![]() Double up on the 3mm and plug weld through some holes drilled in it.
Rightly or wrongly I used 25x50 box with tube through one side so as it would not collapse and my diff brackets are the folded type. |
#7
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![]() Thank's for all the replies to my OP.
I think I knew the answer all along. I guess I was just hoping someone would dissuade me from the obvious ![]() As for the rear bracket. When I first put it together, it just seemed the right thing to do. I put on the Sierra rear bracket, and it fell right into place of RS6. So I bolted up a plate to the diff bracket, and welded it in place.
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. . David. Heaven, Warm days and Cool rides ![]() |
#8
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![]() That's a very good idea with the 3rd bracket for the diff David, it now looks much more secure and is fitted the way it was designed. We're also (some of us
![]() I'm about to upgrade to an LSD and will be adding the 3rd support during the upgrade.. AndyH
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Haynes Roadster / Saturn GRP Bodywork. Now available direct through http://www.gillhamonline.co.uk/ or contact me direct on andrew.hugill@ntlworld.com Regards..........AndyH |
#9
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![]() See, I do have some good ideas......
![]() It's a shame they get lost in all the rubbish ideas I have ![]()
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. . David. Heaven, Warm days and Cool rides ![]() |
#10
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![]() As I'm fitting a 2.9 Cosworth with ITBs and Emerald management along with a LSD Granada diff I've fitted the rear mount too. Mine is a bit different to all yours 'cos its a Locust rebuild but it seemed to make sense with the potential of around 200 ft/lbs of torque from the engine. By the time this gets to the diff it could be significantly more in the lower gears so the stronger its mounted the better in my book. Admittedly as the diff is solid mounted and this mounting has a big flexible rubber bit in it I doubt if it will make a huge difference but if one or more of the other mounting points breaks away it might just prevent total carnage at the rear.
D.
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