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#1
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![]() Now that I've got my engine running I've started on removing all the redunant wires from the loom. What should I do with the wires that go from the original ecu to the edis? Will these just get plugged into the megajolt and don't need moving from the edis pins or will it be different pins for the edis to megajolt and they just need removing for now? I also found that I have to wires coming from the instrument cluster connection that just went to plugs which had nothing plugged into them on my loom. Any ideas what these would be for? I'm thinking one or both could the the rev counter as my original cluster didn't have a rev counter.
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#2
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![]() The only wires that go from the EDIS to the megajolt are the PIP & SAW wires. It will be a shield twin core cable that originally went to the ECU.
If you are planning on having the hard cut rev limiter installed in your megajolt, the EDIS will also have to get it's power from the megajolt. Is one of the wires from your instrument cluster green? If so it would be for the rev counter you didn't to begin with. Has your EDIS plug got a green wire coming out of it? If not you will have to run the rev counter from megajolt.
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http://s831.photobucket.com/user/dav...ter%20Pictures OTR 01/05/14 - 1.6 CVH, Type 9, Bike Carbs, Megajolt |
#3
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![]() Cut the saw/pip at the ecu end so that they are there for when you connect up the jolt.
What are the two colours of the wires on the dash? TT
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You only get a woosh with a dump valve Build Thread Man Cave Mantiques Cecil Street Auto Repairs Garage Carlisle Build Cost £4181.65 - Last - Wheel Cylinders |
#4
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![]() Just so you know..
When you have the jolt, you will have to match teh revcounter output to the dash. The dash should be marked 2 , 4 , 6 or C ( may be another one on oil burners but never seen one ) 2 = 4 cylinder wasted spark ( what you have) 4 = 4 cylinder distributor 6 = 6 cylinder distributor c = cosworth. Hopefuly you have a 4 or 2 as that will be simplest. TT
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You only get a woosh with a dump valve Build Thread Man Cave Mantiques Cecil Street Auto Repairs Garage Carlisle Build Cost £4181.65 - Last - Wheel Cylinders |
#5
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![]() Ok I'm pretty sure I know which wires you mean when you say pip & saw. I remember 2 of them being much thicker and it looked like they had a black covering on them.
I'll have to check the dash for which marking it has, where will it be written? I think it'll be a 4 as I'm pretty sure it's off a carbed cvh (it's handy andy's old one) where as my original would have been a 2 I guess but with no rev counter. I'm also pretty sure the 2 spare wires I have going off the dash are green possibly stripped with another color like brown or yellow. I'll check tonight though and what pin they're going into which might help id them. I was planning on running the rev counter off the megajolt as normally doesn't the rev counter run off the coil and my coil won't have the connection with the original donor not having a rev counter? I was also going to get the hard rev limiter with my jolt as apparently it makes the cutout alot smother than just using the software based one. But I guess swapping the power wire for the edis over to the jolt later won't be too difficult. I also want to put one of the wideband lamda's in to hopefully make tunning it a bit easier, is there anything else I need to be aware of at this stage for that? |
#6
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![]() On my original cvh setup with sierra clocks the rev counter wouldnt work from the megajolt or edis and would only read approx half or less
You buy a tacho driver from trigger wheels and run it from the coilpack and that sorts it As tt said though may not need it depending on dash, but i did So just be aware of this when you have the rev counter wired up that it may be under reading whilst your revving the tits off it thinking this is loud for 3500rpm ![]() |
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