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#1
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![]() Has any one any actual measurements for the engine mounts position for a pinto engine or is best waiting and trial fitting the engine ?
DaveyB |
#2
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![]() I'm waiting to possition it in and then line up the mounts to suit
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#3
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![]() the engine is governed by the gearbox mount i fitted my engine so it was level as it would be in the car i bolted the gearbox mount in then blocked the engine up then made my mounts to suit
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17.07.10 "Now i know the meaning of life" My Build pics http://www.flickr.com/photos/67605695@N04/ http://www.flickr.com/photos/97412063@N08/ |
#4
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![]() if your fitting a type9 box then its dependent on the gearstick and reversing light switch clearence in trans tunnel tubes and clutch arm clearence
you do get the motor quiet far back ![]() |
#5
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![]() Its always worth asking the question as others have tripped up on the way. Series landy [ steve] had issues with his drivers side mount and steering shaft configuration so it might be worth a dig about his build thread before you get the mig out.
Bob
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When The Results Disagree With The Theory: Believe The Results And Invent A New Theory If I had two brains I,d still be a halfwit The cave http://s1116.photobucket.com/user/my...deshow/mancave The build http://www.haynes.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?t=12669 |
#6
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![]() As bob says I had a few problems with the pinto.
1st I struggled to get the g/box far enough back. The clutch fork was hard up against the chassis rails, and in 1st gear the leaver hit the bar in front. So I moved the gear lever back with a remote selector. The engine mounts are another story. I used the near side one as per the book with cast strut and rubber mount. On the o/side I originally went book spec but the steering shaft hit the bolt on the top of the engine rubber. I fabbed up a new strut and removed the book 3mm plate mount and welded in a flat plate to the chassis rails. I would say that I wouldn't weld anything Untill you trial fit the engine. There are some pics of my mounts in my sig |
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