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What is happening
Well chaps the posts are going thick and fast now
I was about to give this reply to Andys handbrake thread & now its gone. Hi Andy I had a quick look at the possible route of the handbrake cable yesterday, not having a cable to hand, I did think to myself " That is going to be tight " Perhaps if you can post a picture I can offer some better advice. There are, p clamps that you can get to support handbrake cables & the likes. Adrian On the first set of uprights I made, I too had some clearance issues. Not wanting to go through the hassle of making plates RU7 & RU8 again by hand, I bought them from 3GE Having looked long & hard into the potential clearance issues, I decided to construct the rear uprights slightly different. Heres some pictures of the minor changes made. Upright carcasses Once these were made to this stage. I placed RU7 on top of the tube RU5 as opposed to flush with the face of it. Two reasons for this. 1: I felt that I could get a better quality weld between RU7 & RU5. 2: I gained an extra 10 mm on the upright Plate RU8 was then welded to RU7 as per book. A couple more pictures of the uprights fitted to the chassis Sorry the pictures are not very clear but Do feel that they illustrate what I have gained from this minor change. 10mm extra clearance in the following areas . Handbrake cable, bleed nipple, more room to fix the flexi hose. Finally 10mm extra clearance between the lower wishbone fixings & wheel rim To compensate for the extra 10mm gained in the upright. the wishbones were made to the original book spec ( First edition ) & using the driveshafts as is. All have been fitted to the car & I am pleased with the result. I am not saying that this is the way it should be done. Just a personal choce that I decided to make . EDIT Please note, I have not as yet fully welded RU5 to RU7 & RU8
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I am not a complete idiot...........Some of the parts are missing !! Ronnie www.roadster-builders.co.uk Last edited by Bonzo : 23rd July 2009 at 01:49 PM. Reason: More text |
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