#1
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Fuel Line Mounting
I'm trying to work out how to secure my fuel line as it comes out the transmission tunnel and past the diff. The problem is all the faces are parallel to the hose and I can't use a P clip.
You guys got any ideas how I can do this. I'm pretty sure Mr IVA won't like the fuel line in contact with the chassis. |
#2
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No takers on this one !!
If you wish to use flexable fuel pipe .... Probably no option other than weld on some support brackets to take P clips Not the best of options now that the chassis has been painted Personally, I will be using 8mm Kunifer tubing .... So much easier with solid tube as it'll bend around areas like that & is easy to support
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I am not a complete idiot...........Some of the parts are missing !! Ronnie www.roadster-builders.co.uk |
#3
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I,ve used a metal "P clip" rivetted just where the white cable tie in the above photo is, rivetted to the inside face of SB4 , this holds the fuel line a little higher above the BR12 rail,
looped the fuel line up a little then another metal P clip on the back face of BR12 ( the face you can see in the above pic), then followed along the inner face of RS1 till it met the tank. The metal p clips are the rubber shrouded ones by the way. Seems ok to me, doesn,t touch any part of the chassis & is above the lowest point of the chassis rails so won,t get caught going over bumps etc. cheers andy
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Flat Pack Chassis Kits for sale, contact me at andyroadster@yahoo.co.uk |
#4
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i was going to rivit a thin alu plate accross the bottom and put the brake like loom and fule lines over that so they dont hang atall
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#5
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rubber hose down the transmission tunnel is a big no no!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
it needs to be metal. rubber hoses have a habit of degrading then splitting. that's fine in an engine bay or rear tub because you can see them and usually, the fuel drips on the floor. im presuming you are going to fit a removable cover over the bottom of your tunnel. in a transmission tunnel when a pipe splits the fuel pools up until the slightest bit of static from your seatbelt ignites the vapours and burns the car out. have seen it so many times on locost builders. fit 8mm copper from front to back its easier to run and you dont have to replace it every couple of years like you do rubber. look under any modern car their fuel hoses will either be plastic or metal but never rubber. just use rubber for the final joins between the tank and engine, dont use them anywhere else Last edited by AshG : 2nd March 2010 at 12:15 AM. |
#6
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this is how i did mine
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#7
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As you can see from this pic you can bend it to all wonderful angles and the best bit is once its bent to shape it stays that way so no chance of it ever moving.
I have got a smart little pipe bender that i used worked a treat. get them from here about £14 so nice and cheep then the 8mm bore copper pipe is about another £15. http://www.screwfix.com/prods/17898/...i-Tube-Bender# |
#8
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I don't have rubber hose in the tunnel. Just around the diff and between the fuel tank and pump. All easy access stuff. The tunnel is 8mm copper pipe, with flared ends to help keep the hose on. You can actually see in my photo the copper fuel line in the tranny tunnel.
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#9
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Same as Ash Deezee but where the copper tube enters and exits the tranny tunnel split and wrap some rubber tuber around the pipe to protect against chafing. The main thing is to make sure its all securely fixed and no chance of the pipe rubbing along the chassis, panels or gearbox (gearbox will move a fair bit on rubbers which he gives a good tug, making sure it hits nothing).
SVA man was quite content with this.....AndyH
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Haynes Roadster / Saturn GRP Bodywork. Now available direct through http://www.gillhamonline.co.uk/ or contact me direct on andrew.hugill@ntlworld.com Regards..........AndyH |
#10
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oh yes so i can so i can see, been having a it of selective blindness lately i did copper all the way right up to the tank even round the diff and rear frame wasn't too hard actually. i found it easier than trying to fix flexi hose. in areas where it is hard to get a rivet gun in e.g where the diff is, i used self tapping screws with lock-tight on them to hold 1 or 2 pclips.
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