Chris's new build of an MX5 based car

[CTWV50]

Hi Johno, glad you like it. Thought people would hate it. Just quickly though before I get to the computer tonight. Does the speedo cable have to go down the tunnel can't it come into the footwell and then go back out, through the floor in your case and under the car. Was messing around with the dash when I read your post. And thought I'd have a play with the speedo cable. Hadn't really give it much thought before, thought it would be the last thing to give me a problem.

Edit forgot to say a small panel could cover the offending cable!

[CTWV50]

Originally Posted by Johno

Hi Chris,
That's a goo idea with the rear top tube I guess you intend to sheet the rear in ally and that will work out nice around the wheel arch area as it can all be in one piece.

Yeah I'll sheet it in ally but then integrate some chopped up rear arches made of fibreglass somehow.

Originally Posted by Johno

Gonna pick your'e brains now, did you lower the floor to get over the top harness anchorage points to be within IVA measurements as I'm looking to have no rear stays on my rollbar and weld spacers on my top seat rail to gain height?

I lowered the floor so I felt like I was sitting "on it" and not "in it", with comfy seats I felt I was sat too high. The seat belt mounting was a bonus as was being able to run the steering column under that cross member and not over, using the original pedal box and the clocks fitting under the scuttle. It's worked out well and as the engine has to lowered 40mm it seemed a reasonable choice to lower the floor.

Originally Posted by Johno

I see you're prop has been shortened, did you do this yourself and if so where? Also I guess you measured between the gear box ouput and diff flange and made the prop a bit shorter? by how much shorter do you make it?

You know that props not welded or anything I had some tube that fitted inside it so I used it to just mock it up had to cut it a few time to get it right. I'll tack it before removing it and taking it to the professional to be remade and balanced. I know a place local I've done work for in the past see if they can sort me out.
I don't know how much I removed but my engine is probably a little further forwards than yours to clear the standard pedal box.

Originally Posted by Johno

Regarding you instrument cluster now...
I also intend to use the original Mazda panel but the only set back I have at the moment is the speedo cable.
Anybody using the mechanical speedo drive will have problems in the transmission tunnel with the radius being too tight from the gearbox. I have read Westfields only lasting a few miles before the cable breaking on their Mazda builds.
I believe there is a TOYOTA 90 degree adapter that will fit the Mazda gearbox to get over this but dammed if I can source the part...
What do you intend to do?

As I say I'll probably take it into the foot well and make a cover for it but if you can find that part it would be a better option. I know john (skov) has used a mk2 electrical speed sender but i think you'd have to use mk2 clocks and I'm not sure how complicated that would be. Ecu want to know what speed your going as well which the mk1 instrument cluster relays to the ecu.

Originally Posted by Johno

Really like what you are doing with the build Chris...

Johno

Cheers Johno, I like yours too but it hurts my eyes to look at your thread.

[Johno]

Hi Chris,
Yeah sorry about my photo's, paint schemes a bit loud to say the least...
No reason why people shouldn't like your build as you've got some really good ideas there.

In hindsight I wish I spent a bit more time up front sorting stuff out instead of just ploughing in like I have...
It really pays to look at what others have done and have a choice of what you can do with the build.

Regarding the Westfield builds and their problem with the mechanical drive for the speedo I've found this...

Those of you who used a NA (Mk1) donor, will have found that the speedo cable makes a very sharp bend at the transmission. Every single car that I know of ended up with a broken cable because of this. The only solution is to make a hole in the body to feed the cable through or use the NB (Mk2) cluster with its electrical drive gear (it’s a direct swap against the mechanical drive gear).

However, there is a much easier solution. The mazda gearbox has a metric M22-1.5 thread as do old 80′s and 90′s Toyota’s. Most (all?) RWD Toyota’s used a 90° angled drive to prevent this problem. The part is a straight fit for the Mazda transmission!

The original Toyota P/N is 83770-30070 and it is meanwhile superceeded by P/N 83770-22100.






Simon phoned up Toyota today and you can still get this part for £73. I know it's expensive but it's a lot cheaper than replacing the cable every 25 miles...LOL

Hope this helps..... Johno

[Davidbolam]

Chris,

How many fuel pumps are you planning to use on your car. Are you going to use on your car. Are you just using the one from insie the tank or will you add an extra one?

Thanks

David

[CTWV50]

Wow £73!! don't you just love dealers! I'll be taking mine into the foot well. Great info through Johno you should put that info in a new thread for easy finding by others in the future.

It's not your paint scheme Johno it's cos it's so clean!.

I'll be a little bit sad when my cars finished cos I'm enjoying building it so much so I'm taking my time on purpose and faffing about a lot. I've always wanted to build my own car so putting my own ideas in there is more important to me than building a recognisable Haynes Roadster.

Hi David, well I was going to run the standard fuel pump but I do have an in tank bosch pump from a Mercedes ML320 which is cable of providing enough fuel for a 3 litre engine. I was only going to use it when I decided to push for more bhp one way or another. Why do you think you need more than one fuel pump?

[CTWV50]

Just Ordered!

http://www.cbsonline.co.uk/product/7..._Silencer_SIL7

I'm shaking and sweating after spending so much scraped together paypal tokens on that bad boy!! At least my car will be fairly quiet, and look good on the right hand side!

[K4KEV]

Originally Posted by CTWV50

Just Ordered!

http://www.cbsonline.co.uk/product/7..._Silencer_SIL7

I'm shaking and sweating after spending so much scraped together paypal tokens on that bad boy!! At least my car will be fairly quiet, and look good on the right hand side!

OOOOOWWWCCCCCHHHHHHHHH
wowser ....bet that stung

[CTWV50]

Originally Posted by K4KEV

OOOOOWWWCCCCCHHHHHHHHH
wowser ....bet that stung

Well yes it did. I really struggled to hit the "paynow" button! But it's such a crucial thing in my mind. I tried welding bits of exhaust together like the book says and quite frankly it looked awful and made me laugh every time I looked at it, AND, I've had noisy exhausts on cars before and it was just horrible to drive, you have to be 12 years old to enjoy that kind of din!

[ozzy1]

The original Toyota P/N is 83770-30070 and it is meanwhile superceeded by P/N 83770-22100.

There is a guy at my car club sells these for $25 each,i dont know if he has many left though but could find out.

[CTWV50]

Originally Posted by ozzy1

There is a guy at my car club sells these for $25 each,i dont know if he has many left though but could find out.

Yes please!