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  #151  
Old 8th November 2012, 07:36 PM
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Tatey Tatey is offline
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Another update with pictures! I've now installed the clutch cable which is nice and secure, but it seems that the cable is slightly too long as it is off the adjuster when in the correct position, I need to look into this and decide what I'm going to do, worst case I can cut the end of the cable and shorten it using a solderless nipple.

I'm in the process of fitting the handbrake cable, I have got it fitted on side I have now created an adapter to go from the handbrake to the half moon on the cable, I am just trying to figure out what length I want to cut the cable to, knowing me I'll end up cutting it that bit too short. I may also need to modify my rear uprights to give clearance between the handbrake cable and the upright as at the minute there isnt enough space to allow the handbrake cable to sit flush against the back plate, I am going to see if it will be possible to install the handbrake cable to the back plate first and then install the back plate to the rear upright.

I have also started fitting the bodywork, the nose cone is now bolted in place by the use of rivnuts, I made a tool using a couple of nuts and a bolt instead of buying a rivnut tool, I am sure it is a bit more fiddly than a proper tool as you need really need 3 hands to use it, but I'm not planning on using that many rivnuts. My next job on bodywork is to finish the rear tub which requires a few rivets to get it in the correct place and then I will roll the bottom edge and rivet that. I then need to put the scuttle in the correct place and buy some bonnet catches, I am planning on using the lockable flush fitting type which are about twice the price of the usual ones but stop someone trying to steal my bonnet and I think they look a lot better.

After this I will continue making more transmission tunnel panels and the side panels and then I can start mounting lights to the bodywork and then finally vinyl wrap it all. I am starting to get better at vinyl wrapping and I have discovered why the edge of my wrapped rear wheel arch lifted, it was because there was an excessive amount of tension left in the vinyl when wrapping and to alleviate this I just need to apply some head to the edge using a heat gun. I also bought a teflon coated squeegee which works wonders with the vinyl.

Here are the pictures so far (excuse the mess of the garage):



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  #152  
Old 8th November 2012, 09:13 PM
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It looks great Simon. I've always looked at your build thread with great interest, and we can see you are really going forward.
Congratulations and keep on the good work
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  #153  
Old 15th November 2012, 04:25 PM
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Scuttle is now in place with rivnuts and fasteners, the holes in the fibreglass just need tweaking slightly to get a flush finish with the side panel, but this will be done when I've made and fitted the side panels. My next job is finishing off the rear tub which I still haven't gotten round to doing yet, at least now my bodywork can sit on my car instead of being propped up against a wall.
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  #154  
Old 15th November 2012, 04:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tatey View Post
Scuttle is now in place with rivnuts and fasteners, the holes in the fibreglass just need tweaking slightly to get a flush finish with the side panel.
Having not worked with GRP so far - is it a bit flexible - hence you can sort of (gently one assumes) push and pull it into position...?
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  #155  
Old 15th November 2012, 06:04 PM
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My scuttle stretched to abont an inch too wide before I fitted it. I clamped it to the chassis in summer, it flexed to 1 cm too wide in an unstressed state within a couple of weeks, and it easily flexes 1-2 cm more without much strain. Looks like NTS bodywork was made out of a single layer of 600 or 400 g/m^2 CSM, it's pretty light and flimsy.
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  #156  
Old 18th November 2012, 03:33 PM
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My scuttle is very flexible and it was about an inch too wide, so I drilled the holes for one side of the scuttle, fitted the rivnuts into the chassis, bolted it down and then flexed the other side of the scuttle into the correct place. I am tempted to in the future remake everything out of carbon fibre but that will be a long way off.

I've now finished the rear aluminium panel and safe to say it was a bit of a ball ache, I am not a fan of creating panels I have to say, but it's done now and I'm reasonably satisfied with it, here is a picture:



It will be vinyl wrapped like the rest of the body panels. I think I have also decided I will be vinyl wrapping my carbon aeroscreen with dinoc carbon vinyl as it looks a bit crap due to the large amount of resin at the bottom of the screen with a number of airbubbles/disturbed fibre strands, it only cost £5 and will look reasonable once wrapped.
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Last edited by Tatey : 18th November 2012 at 03:36 PM.
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  #157  
Old 18th November 2012, 07:50 PM
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Rear panel looks good. That's one job I didn't enjoy much either!
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  #158  
Old 18th November 2012, 08:36 PM
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I really hope the side panels are an easier job...

I've now fitted the wing mirrors, although need to buy some fine pitched M10 nuts, I will have every fastener under the sun by the time I've finished this car...

Still need to finish off the handbrake cable, all that is left to do is to put the cable through the nearside brake shoe and cut it to length, but I couldnt for the life of me get the nipple through the hole (the offside was no problem at all)...do people take the shoe off to do this or is there a method I am missing?
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  #159  
Old 19th November 2012, 09:07 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tatey View Post
My scuttle is very flexible and it was about an inch too wide, so I drilled the holes for one side of the scuttle, fitted the rivnuts into the chassis, bolted it down and then flexed the other side of the scuttle into the correct place.
This is why this forum is great! Info like this is gold-dust I reckon! Will the dash and front bulkhead panel hold it all rigid once it's all riveted / bolted up?
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  #160  
Old 19th November 2012, 12:29 PM
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It's very rigid once bolted down, its just quite easy to flex if you grab both ends and push together when not attached to anything, attaching the bulkhead and dash should increase the rigidity even further.
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