Not quite a build thread....

[robo]

Originally Posted by Johno

Hi John,
Glad to hear you found the problem...
I don't have the book with me but I guess the clutch pedal is shorter below the pivot bush?
Should be an easy fix them as long as the guide tube through the pedal box still lines up with new position of the throttle connection.

I've not done too much on the car lately. I've tried to spend some time with the kids whilst they're on holiday.
I have drawn up an alteration to my current rear top wishbone. The lower mount for the shock is now above the yoke. I'm hoping this will put less stress on the adjuster. It's now similar to the Sierra setup in configuration.
The position of the lower shock mount is 25mm longer than Saturns plans.




Also when the car is at ride height the shock and top upright pivots are all in line as you can see in this drawing.



This means I've just got to modify my yoke and i guess the shock will need to be 25mm longer..??

What I am trying to acheive by doing this is to use the lower adjusters on the bottom wishbone for "Toe in and out" and also track width. The top will be purely for "Camber" adjustment as I can do this in situ without removing parts. I should be able to get fine adjustment because of the fine pitch thread of the bolt.

Does anybody see a problem with this?? as it's only on paper yet.

Thanks Johno

I was thinking about this in board adjustment thing. On the front its ok because its only needed on the top wishbone for the sake of dialing in a bit more caster and the transit rod end at 20mm in diameter is never going to break in a million years. On the back to use the inner adjusters for toe + or - is going to take the wheel backwards or forwards in an arc quite a lot which will effectively alter the wheelbase. That would mean setting it up before the wheel arches go on. Thats probably why westfield keep the adjusters outboard. I could live with rosejoints outboard if I knew that they were massively oversized and could never fail. No one seems to be able to advise on sizing of the rose joints. All you can get from the suppliers is " 5/8 should do the job" Kin great. Just thoughts

Bob

[Johno]

Originally Posted by robo

I was thinking about this in board adjustment thing. On the front its ok because its only needed on the top wishbone for the sake of dialing in a bit more caster and the transit rod end at 20mm in diameter is never going to break in a million years. On the back to use the inner adjusters for toe + or - is going to take the wheel backwards or forwards in an arc quite a lot which will effectively alter the wheelbase. That would mean setting it up before the wheel arches go on. Thats probably why westfield keep the adjusters outboard. I could live with rosejoints outboard if I knew that they were massively oversized and could never fail. No one seems to be able to advise on sizing of the rose joints. All you can get from the suppliers is " 5/8 should do the job" Kin great. Just thoughts

Bob

Have you had a look at this site http://www.mcgillmotorsports.co.uk/.
Would it be possible to use a larger sized rose joint and fit a machined bush to bring down the size of the hole for the bolt?

Johno

[robo]

I think your right. If the reducing bush was spun up with a large flange/washer as an all in one unit on the outside it would contain the joint in the event of failure.

bob

[Johno]

Cheers Nathan and Eternal.
I'm just making things up as I go now and if don't lke it I change it..
I just got to stop painting stuff before I'm happy with it........

Robo did you have a look at Mcgill site, they seem to do a large range of rose joints and accessories. They also do M16-M12 Rod End Joint Reducers, High Misalignment spacers.

Well I welded up my new front lower wishbones Saturday and this evening I tacked in a cross tube similar to the rear lower wishbones.
I've decided to do this instead of a plate between the two tubes.
So what I'm asking is this a good or bad idea?
This time I'm asking before I go and weld it...




Whats you opinion?

Photos updated http://s1199.photobucket.com/albums/aa472/JohnoSS1/

Bye for now Johno

[shh120m]

I think its a good idea, especially if you add another one crossing it going the other way. Whenever iv seen failed wishbones it has always been at the end of the plate. Must have something to do with the amount of heat the seam weld on both sides does to the steels integrity.

Ive read a while ago, something to do with wishbone tubes should not follow the exact path of any force going though them, cant remember where or what exactly, maybe a real engineer will come along and put me right or wrong.

[stew]

looks good johno. ive been following yours ( and skovs) build threads, even although ive been flat out with work for the past 5 months and done nothing to my car. i like the idea of your revised wishbone. im thinking of rose jointing all my wishbones and doing away with bushes etc. not sure if its a fantastic idea though?! haha

[robo]

Hey johnno did you clock the upper wishbones on the roll bar thread. Thats the sort of thing I had in mind.



Bob

[Johno]

Ok you may want to put some shades on for this so be warned because here she is......





I warned you...LOL
Seriously need to tone it down somewhat with some black bits here and there I think.
Very pleased with the panels just needs some more polishing in places.
One bonus is the bonnet clears the engine even without a bonnet bulge and still needs to go up another 2mm for the side panels as well.
I've just got to figure out a starting point to fit them from which I guess is trial and error to start with.
One question, what's the best way to cut the hole in the front nosecone for the rad and oil cooler to achieve the best finish?

Bye for now

Johno

[Johno]

Originally Posted by robo

Hey johnno did you clock the upper wishbones on the roll bar thread. Thats the sort of thing I had in mind.



Bob

Hi Bob,
Haven't seen that thread but will look.
Is this what you plan to do on your front wishbones as the American Locost boys use this type of setup as well and seem to have no problems.
I guess this gives you some adjustment on your caster to help with centering right?
I like the idea of that especially with the ability to alter camber without removing the ball joint.
I've came up with a neat (hopefully) solution similar to the photo regarding camber adjustment for IVA and was also thinking about using Heim joints for caster (after Algas thread) but is it ok to mix and match poly bushes with Heim joints as my front lowers are poly now as below.....



Cya all soon



Johno

[Johno]

Originally Posted by stew

looks good johno. ive been following yours ( and skovs) build threads, even although ive been flat out with work for the past 5 months and done nothing to my car. i like the idea of your revised wishbone. im thinking of rose jointing all my wishbones and doing away with bushes etc. not sure if its a fantastic idea though?! haha

Hi Stew,
Yeah I keep playing around with the wishbones until I come up with something that I'm happy with....
Check out LocostUSA forum, these guys only seem to use rose joints (heim joints over there) and seem to swear by them.
So I would say if you want to go that route it would be fine.....

Johno