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  #11  
Old 8th September 2012, 11:42 AM
baz-r baz-r is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ashbudd7 View Post
While on the subject, then, what sort of protective gear do you need if you were to use the chassis black (number p140 from frost.co.uk,) either thinned down and sprayed or brushed on?

Thanks, Ash
rule of thumb is if it has isocynate in you need to use an air fed mask as it is realy hard to filter out and its realy nasty stuff.
pritty much all 2k paints and thinners have it in (2k= 2 pack polyurathane not epoxys)

i use a proper 3m mask for spraying like this https://encrypted-tbn3.google.com/im...xbE_4wqBn1msKg
but you should check the COSHH sheet for your product to be on the safe side
if your brushing there is no airbourne paint so its just the vapour you need to worry about.
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  #12  
Old 8th September 2012, 08:41 PM
DRCorsa DRCorsa is offline
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Anyone has powdercoated the chassis? Would you recommend this method instead of traditional painting?
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  #13  
Old 8th September 2012, 08:57 PM
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Twin Twin is offline
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I was thinking of powder coat, I think it holds water if you get a nick in it!
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  #14  
Old 9th September 2012, 10:49 AM
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Thmoment you nick or crack powdercoat your problems start, it'll rust and lift the coating quickly and there is no repair available.
A good standard of painting is prefered and easily repaired.
Hammerite can work well bet its less easy to overpaint later.
I would prepair the bare metal properly then red oxide, high build filler undercoat with plenty of rubbing down then several top coats in the colour of your choice
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  #15  
Old 9th September 2012, 08:07 PM
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My plan has been to use red oxide primer, but was told in a previous thread that its better to use a proper etch primer as it's far less prone to lifting. (Apparently red-oxide is mainly aimed at industial structures rather than car chassis'!)
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  #16  
Old 9th September 2012, 09:02 PM
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rapidtornado rapidtornado is offline
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Well the front end of the car had a lick of black Tetrasyl chassis paint, stuck it on a few days ago and it's gone off rock solid.

Must admit the finish would have been much nicer if using an air gun rather than brush but didn't have the gear or £'s to buy it so brush it was.... I'm pleased with the results and would recommend the stuff... but just don't be expecting concourse results with a brush (unless it's my workmanship that's crap.... strong possibility ) just make sure you use pure bristle brush not synthetic

Well I'm going to finish off the rest of the car with it.

It's a low cost solution but I'm sure 2PK sprayed on is much better.... just need to condsider the cost aspect for something which is primarily going to be sitting behind bodywork

I'll stick a picture up tomorrow so you see the result

Rapid
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  #17  
Old 9th September 2012, 11:49 PM
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I am not trying to put you off hand painting but a small airbrush type spraygun like these on ebay cost less than a packet of decent paint brushes. The spec on this one is that it has a 50mm spray pattern which seems perfect. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Spray-Gun-...item46072cc0a9 If you dont have a compressor get a big old lorry tyre , they pump up to 120 psi and used to serve me well in my youth for spraying all the old motorbike frames and tanks, they hold enough air to get round something like a chassis. Just cobble up an air line of the valve and away you go. Kev used an air brush on his chassis.

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  #18  
Old 10th September 2012, 12:08 AM
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rapidtornado rapidtornado is offline
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fair play that does look great... maybe I'll ask around in work to see if someone's got a compressor I can snag for the weekend
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  #19  
Old 10th September 2012, 10:16 AM
baz-r baz-r is offline
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Try a foam mini roller you don't get streaks and you get a more even but you need to cut in all the fiddley bits first with a bush
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  #20  
Old 10th September 2012, 05:39 PM
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alga alga is offline
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I used a foam roller. Knackered about 4 of them until I primed and painted the whole chassis. They do give a nice orange peel texture, but that depends on the paint, I guess.
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