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  #11  
Old 3rd July 2012, 12:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Deanno View Post
One item i have changed is the M6 nut welded on the bottom of each pedal, I used 25 x 25 x 6mm plate rounded off and tapped an M6 hole as the nuts were melting through. plus it gave me a bit more room for a lock nut.
Dean
Sounds like a very good option
Could you post pictures of it when it is finished? I'd really like to see how it looks.
Thank you.
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  #12  
Old 3rd July 2012, 02:05 PM
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No problem i'll take one tonight before painting.
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  #13  
Old 10th July 2012, 08:58 PM
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This is my New (Sylvain) Pedal Box.
I have made one modification to the design this being a piece if 25 x 25m 6mm plate with an M6 thread tapped through it 15mm from the pedal face and inline with the centre of the pedal.

One half of the bush, I made these out of Nylon.


The Three pedals.


The modification.


Front View of the pedals in place.


Any feedback or your oppinions are welcome.

Regards
Dean
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  #14  
Old 10th July 2012, 08:58 PM
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Side View of the pedals in place.


Dean
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  #15  
Old 10th July 2012, 11:37 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Deanno View Post

Any feedback or your oppinions are welcome.

Regards
Dean

Looking great Dean

Tho, may I suggest ....

To use hex headed bolts on the pivot & stop/adjusters, as , Once you have your side panels fitted its not easy getting into the footwell with TWO hands, so if hex headed bolts are used you can place a ring spanner on the head which will find a STOP so that you can either undo or adjust the actual nut, similar for the "adjuster bolts" ....as you,d need to depress the pedal to get an allen key into your current setup, would be easier to adjust if hex headed bolts were used ...
IMHO of course

cheers
andy
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  #16  
Old 11th July 2012, 02:23 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Deanno View Post
This is my New (Sylvain) Pedal Box.


Any feedback or your oppinions are welcome.

Regards
Dean
Thats a decent looking pedal box but there will be a problem if those bolts are used to adjust the final pedal heights. The clutch and brake masters need to come right back to their max on release to take in any fluid in and it really is at the very back. If for any reason either system needed a top up it would not get it. On the range rovers they used a eccentric sleeved bolt through the pedal which rotated to adjust final pedal height so that might be an option. Just thoughts

Bob
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Last edited by robo : 11th July 2012 at 09:38 AM.
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  #17  
Old 11th July 2012, 09:18 AM
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I meant to say they would be changed they were the only ones i could get that were long enough from work.
Well spotted Andy.

Quote:
Originally Posted by HandyAndy View Post
Looking great Dean

Tho, may I suggest ....

To use hex headed bolts on the pivot & stop/adjusters, as , Once you have your side panels fitted its not easy getting into the footwell with TWO hands, so if hex headed bolts are used you can place a ring spanner on the head which will find a STOP so that you can either undo or adjust the actual nut, similar for the "adjuster bolts" ....as you,d need to depress the pedal to get an allen key into your current setup, would be easier to adjust if hex headed bolts were used ...
IMHO of course

cheers
andy
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