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  #11  
Old 31st December 2009, 11:10 AM
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twinturbo twinturbo is offline
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the roll pin does come out.

I have never bothered..


Now I think about it. the last time I pulled a twincam from a scrapper, I moved the engine forwards as far as it would go, unbolted the box and then that was easy to get out on it's own afterwards.

I was being lasy.



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Last edited by twinturbo : 31st December 2009 at 11:12 AM.
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  #12  
Old 31st December 2009, 02:34 PM
Enoch Enoch is offline
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Well I have got the beast out now, I did not need to remove the gear lever in the end. Once I had dropped the back of the box down it became obvious that if I lifted the front of the engine high enough it would come out with no problem. The prop shaft was a nightmare, even the windy gun would not shift the bolts, took me nearly an hour just to get that off Still all's well that ends well, the engine and box are now sat on a little trolley I made, the rest of the car is at the bottom of the drive - happy days!
Thanks for all your help and especially to Matthew for taking the time to post those photos.
Best to all,
Enoch
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  #13  
Old 31st December 2009, 05:59 PM
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is ther no sliding joint on the 2wd 75? it's a while since i paid much attention.

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  #14  
Old 31st December 2009, 06:04 PM
Enoch Enoch is offline
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There is a part that slides in to the back of the box, if that's what you mean. There is a doughnut that attaches to it, the prop then attaches to that. It's messy if it comes out as all the gear oil comes out with it As I needed the prop off anyway I took the 3 bolts out that connect the prop to the doughnut and did it that way. It's only the second engine I have ever removed, the first one I have done without help so I am sure I did most of it the hard way Well chuffed to have done it though and without injury too.
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Old 31st December 2009, 06:42 PM
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Thought it did, and yeah the gear oil can get everywhere and is smelly orible stuff.

Sometimes it can be a right pain to get the bolts all back in the dog chew though as they expand when you undoo them.

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