It did start

[robo]

An extract from an article.

Bob

The engine is so simple that it's pretty hard to assemble it wrong but despite this the one thing that few people get right is fitting the oil pump. DO NOT try and force this to line up with the sump flange. The oil pump must be central on the crank nose and NOT forced to one side. If you take up all the clearance in the pump gears by trying to align the pump flange with the sump flange then the gears will get smashed by crank vibration and pushed through the side of the pump. Fit the pump loosely and move it from side to side and up and down until you get a feel for the amount of free play between the pump and crank. Then position it as central as you can and nip the bolts up. Any error relative to the sump flange will be sealed fine if you use a bit of silicone on the sump gasket. 9 out of 10 engines that fail soon after rebuild are because the pump breaks due to incorrect fitting. Ford changed the design in 1986 to try and make it a bit more idiot proof but in my experience there is nothing capable of doing quite as much damage to an engine as a really determined idiot.



Edit. This would sort of make sense as the gears would float and center untill the bolts done up then the gears of the pump are stuffed into the oilpump case . Just thoughts.

[twinturbo]

if you need the crank thrust washers they are

finis 6064814 for standard
finis 6064815 .4mm o/s

TT

[twinturbo]

And the crank nose.

http://www.claytune.org.uk/images/st...eral/crank.jpg

6085093 is the finis for the washer item 4.

TT

[brainbug007]

Ok most of all that just went straight over my head! I never touched the oil or water pumps, just took the alternator and cambelt pulleys off. I've no idea when the oil or water pump may have or where ever been changed as the donor had very little in the way of service history.

I can confirm I only have 1 thrust washer which is sitting between the block and cambelt pulley with the raised part of the washer pointing outwards away from the block so to speak.

It does have a rather thick & large washer which sits between the bolt head and the front of the alternator pulley. I guess what seems really weird is I can do the bolt and thick washer up on the crankshaft fairly tight without the alternator pulley on and hand cranking the engine is fairly easy and smooth. Then when the alternator pulley is put on without the bolt done up, again it hand cranks easily with little resistance. It's just when I then start to do the bolt up tightly with the alternator pulley that it get's hard / impossible to hand crank the engine depending of how tight I've done it up. At the moment it's only just hand tightened lightly for the engine to be able to start up like that.

In theory tightening the bolt with the alternator would be either pulling the alternator pulley into the crankshaft or pulling the crankshaft & cambelt pulley out? Also I guess the tension would be spread out across the alternator pulley because of the thick washer?

Out of curiosity I'm guessing it's not a good idea to just run the engine long term with the bolt not fully torqued up? It must be sitting around 20-30nm at the moment vs the 120nm it should be.

[twinturbo]

Ok, We can rule out crank or pump issues.

is the front pully located correctly on the key way? I wonder if the pully is pulling up skew and dragging.

TT

[brainbug007]

As far as I can tell the front pulley is on proprely, its got a notch so it will only really go on one way really.

I started it up again this afternoon and it goes much easier now. I still have to have the choke on though but I guess this is normal with carb engines on coldish days. It doesn't sound as irregular now either on the exhaust strokes. I did an air leak test on the bike manifold using a blow torch with just the gas running (no flame) and moved it around the manifold to see if the engine would pick up. I've definitely got a decent leak at port one and a smallish one at port 3 i think.

I'm not surprised really as it looked slightly warped at one end after I welded it as I don't think I had it clamped down to the jig well enough. Is it considered acceptable to just go round the manifold and squirt a load of something like holymer blue to plug the leaks?

[davedew]

Not sure if holymer is fuel resistant. The correct way is to get the manifold skimmed. If you plan on keeping this setup for a while I would get it machined

[brainbug007]

Ya the blue stuff is fuel resistant, pretty crazy stuff really (http://www.hylomar.com/index.php?opt...62&It emid=70) I'm guessing though it'd probly be cheaper to remake the manifold than have it skimmed?

[mark]

Originally Posted by brainbug007

Ya the blue stuff is fuel resistant, pretty crazy stuff really (http://www.hylomar.com/index.php?opt...62&It emid=70) I'm guessing though it'd probly be cheaper to remake the manifold than have it skimmed?

Its fuel resistant but never sets and the vacuum off the engine will eventually suck it in

As said ideally skim the manifold but if its only slight automotive silicone will seal it

Actually take the manifold off though dont try and seal around it, dont use so much that it squeezes out lots of excess into the manifold when you tighten it down

[twinturbo]

Do you have an inlet gasket? You could try using 2 to add extra squish.

TT