#11
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if you have a look underthe bodywork and interior category
you will find a post by TJ called Handyandy,s chassis kits ( i know he put it in the wrong section ) there are a couple of photos of Andy,s kits you can clearly see what you get for your money cheers les g |
#12
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Handy andy is re maun for steely stuff.........and Les you have a pm
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#13
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It's just not worth buying all the equipment and cutting it all yourself.....
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Haynes Roadster / Saturn GRP Bodywork. Now available direct through http://www.gillhamonline.co.uk/ or contact me direct on andrew.hugill@ntlworld.com Regards..........AndyH |
#14
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Well, I have put a couple of coat's of white emulsion on my freshly built "build table" while the mrs started on early labour pains hmmmm maybe bad timing for building a roadster
My friends all call my plans "Project Divorce"
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Failed builder |
#15
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Quote:
I must be ready for the men in white coats then , LOL Thanks for everyones support of the Flat pack kits, Headshot..... whichever route you take , best wishes for your build, its great to have another Roadster build started cheers andy
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Flat Pack Chassis Kits for sale, contact me at andyroadster@yahoo.co.uk |
#16
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Andy, could you share the details of what tools and techniques you use to cut the tubes, especially the compound mitres? I've cut my steel with a 115 mm angry grinder mounted in a chopsaw-like holder, but I'm curious how the pros do it.
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Albert Haynes Roadster FAQ | Haynes Builder Locations Gallery, build thread in Lithuanian / via Google Translate. |
#17
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Quote:
And I have a baby boy
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Failed builder |
#18
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Congratulation Headshot
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#19
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Congratulations, I hope mother & little'un are both fine
If you are anything like me .... That lad of yours, will be able to help you complete the build
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I am not a complete idiot...........Some of the parts are missing !! Ronnie www.roadster-builders.co.uk |
#20
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Quote:
I now have a "Master Template Kit" that is cut 2mm over long on each tube which allows for the scribing & the kerf cut of each tube i cut, each part is then checked to ensure the dimensions are correct. The tools I use are mainly a bandsaw, a 4 inch angle grinder disc that is 1mm thick ( plasma disc ) that i use to cut the compound mitre cuts & a cold cut chop saw that I use to cut the basic maximum length of each tube before cutting any angles to them. When i have all the tubes cut to length, I then work thru the full kit cutting the same angles on the various tubes...eg do all the 45 degree cuts at same time, next all the 17degree cuts & so on etc on the band saw ( saves changing the required angle of cut on the bandsaw), once all standard cuts are finished I then scribe out all the compound mitre angles on the relevant tubes, I,ve found that if I scribe just 3 lines for the compound mitre cut it is then easy to cut in a vice with the plasma disc, each face is cut then the tube turned in the vice rather than just making 1 cut as this is often the cause of a bad mitre cut, then each completed mitre cut is placed into a Master "female" jig to check its correct. Each tube is then marked with the angle of cut at each end , on both faces of a compound mitre cut & of course the main part code... TR1 etc. Now i know i have a reputaion for being tight but from a 7 mtr length of steel I end up with on average 2 to 3 cm of waste . I hope the above covers the info you wanted ? Headshot........ Congratulations on your new addition to your family, all the best to mum & the young un cheers andy
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Flat Pack Chassis Kits for sale, contact me at andyroadster@yahoo.co.uk |
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