Running Brake Lines

[deezee]

What do you mean when you say 'Through" the top? If its along the top rails, thats fine, loads of people do it, I'm doing it local to the bell housing cos of space issues around the clutch cable/fork bit. If your talking about inside the rails..... thats a fail, cos you ain't supposed to touch the chassis.

Also there won't be a problem with the design, after all look how many cars are on the road. If you have a hole in your system and its leaking, where you caliper is in relation to the master cyclinder, is going to be awfully irrelevant as your car launches its self into a field.

[DaddyA]

Hi DeeZee,

Definately routing through the tunnel, similar to Ashes but higher up long the top rails exiting just under the handbrake holes at the rear of the tunne

Low down looks good but was too close to the clutch bits.

Probably run electrics this side as well, fuel opposite (low).

[deezee]

I chalked up my route yesterday with my gearbox and engine in. I'm going out the master cylinder, to a bracket, with my 3 way and pressure switch on. From there it climbs up the chassis rail at the end of the footwell, down the tunnel along the top. Then a little bit of snaking till it reaches the diff.

I've lined up my engine crank to gearbox, to output, to the diff, and my bellhousing is much closer to the drivers footwell? So much so I had to trim the bellhousing down to stop it fouling. Then the clutch is going to stick out and the cable goes in there. So that leaves no space for a brake line.

[HandyAndy]

Deezee....

what engine are you using?

andy

[deezee]

An Escort RS2000 16V, with a sump off a Sierra DOHC, going onto a type9 c/w bellhousing off a 1.8cvh Sierra.

[HandyAndy]

Originally Posted by deezee

An Escort RS2000 16V, with a sump off a Sierra DOHC, going onto a type9 c/w bellhousing off a 1.8cvh Sierra.

oh ok, i was just wondering why your bellhousing needed to be so close to the chassis rail/upright?
mines the 1.8cvh engine & box & i,ve got a good 15 to 20 mm between bellhousing & the chassis

andy

[deezee]

My reverse switch sits past TT4 on the tunnel. I'm not sure about yours, maybe my whole gearbox and therefore bellhousing is further back? The alternative is that my chassis is wrong..... but lets gloss over that option for now

I'll try to get some good photos before I yank the lot back out on the weekend. I'll have to borrow my company digi compact, cos my DSLR is just WAY to big to fit in and take a picture.

[HandyAndy]

yes the reverse switch was the main focus on the position of my box,
1 of the switch pins is level with the rear face/edge of TT4 so i,m soldering on the wires to the switch pins with a connector block about 3inches away to allow the box to be disconnected from the wiring, and so not needing to use the original rubber switch plug which would foul TT4.

i,m sure your chassis is spot on

andy

[deezee]

I decided to stop being lazy, put my tea down, and brave the cold and darkness in the garden, to walk to the garage. If your struggling to see the gap between the footwell panel and the bellhousing, thats because its around 8mm.



I set my gearbox up based around the reverse switch clearing the tubes and the gear lever being in the correct place. I also figured it would help centralise the engine weight in the chassis? Not sure if thats a great idea or not.

[HandyAndy]

get back to your dinner....

looking at the lower photo that explains why i have the 15 to 20mm clearence at the bell housing as the pins of the reverse switch on my box are more or less beside the TT4 , as my box is slightly further (about 10mm) forward than yours i,m shortening the gear stick so it doesn,t get too close to the steering wheel.

its good to see how others have done the install

andy