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  #11  
Old 25th November 2008, 04:57 PM
Cobra289 Cobra289 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AdrianH View Post

I think I prefer steel floor and stitch welding using Zinc weld through primer to provide some protection, then just use Sikaflex to seal the seams.

I have just had an idea, what about spot welding the floor to the chassis rails. Has anyone done that before? That would be less distortion then stitch welding, but I guess could only be done on the outer rails and not the transmission tunnel ones.

Adrian
I agree with the Sikaflex to seal the seams, or some Epoxy putty.

A friend of me did make holes of 6 mm at the steel plate at the edges rails but also at the tunnel rails, he did fill weld the holes and he is pretty shore that it is better than stitched welds. No distortion of chassis, like some people think about.
The fill welds where made jumping from corner to corner to spread the heat, and the plate is about 6 mm from the edge so that the holes are close to the inside wall of the tube.

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Cobra289
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  #12  
Old 26th November 2008, 06:52 PM
flyerncle flyerncle is offline
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Somebody correct me if wrong and please do,is there not an ever present possible problem with the Galvanic reaction between ally and steel to consider,

The old white powder problem (not drugs Gents ) seen in landrovers etc.

Just re-reading the post's and Adrian-H's idea of spot welding the steel sounds good too.
And yes you need a spot welder.
With regard to bonding I have seen a vehicle roof glued on and then picked up with a crane mounted magnet and shook about violently and it held,I myself have used similar stuff to replace panels but it is not cheap.
Your thoughts ?

Last edited by flyerncle : 26th November 2008 at 07:01 PM.
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  #13  
Old 26th November 2008, 09:38 PM
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spud69 spud69 is offline
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On my floor i put a thin weld every 3" starting from the side rail and letting it run down and bond into the floor sheet, 16 gauge steel. After powder coating the finish has bonded the rest together very strongly. Its had my 16st clambering all over it recently and its stood up fine.

It may not have been the best way but it seems more than adequate.
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  #14  
Old 27th November 2008, 06:18 PM
flyerncle flyerncle is offline
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Adrian
It is possible to spot weld one side ie: single sided weld and the only difference is that a large earth is used as opposed to the clamp method you referred to previously,Basically all you do is clamp a large copper earth tag to somewhere nice and clean and place the other electrode on where you want the weld and pull the trigger. The one we use at full duty cycle will blow holes in three body panel skins no problem and when you pull the trigger the cables lift a few inches. Well known for blanking SIM cards and screwing up mobiles.

Cheers ALL
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  #15  
Old 28th November 2008, 08:29 AM
bobbyh bobbyh is offline
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what about a sheet of carbonfiber riveted in place?? this is what i was thinking about but i never thought about the rivets coroding and stuff.

would this be a good idea or am i been an idiot
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  #16  
Old 28th November 2008, 01:20 PM
Cobra289 Cobra289 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bobbyh View Post
what about a sheet of carbonfiber riveted in place?? this is what i was thinking about but i never thought about the rivets coroding and stuff.

would this be a good idea or am i been an idiot
Carbon fibers in contact with aluminum is a big problem. The aluminum will go into powder very fast. [Think and the rivets]
So use stainless steel rivets would be better. Check if they are water tight rivets, and don't forget that they are heavy to install. [you will need more force]

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Cobra289
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  #17  
Old 10th July 2009, 11:05 PM
fabbyglass
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by les g View Post
visitors to the 3ge stand at Exeter show might have also have spotted that they had put in some extra box sections for seat mounting
as for sealing the floor schultz is really good and what do people think of putting in a couple of strategicly placed drainholes
les g
You been "borrowing" manhole covers ...........
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  #18  
Old 29th December 2009, 10:45 PM
Peter-C Peter-C is offline
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I hope to plug weld the steel floor to the chassis. I will follow this up with spot welds on the inside of the chassis as per Spud69. Has anyone used this technique on their roadster. I've just had a practice at welding 16 gauge. Seems good. The problem is how do you seal the outside of the floor. Please see attachment.

Peter
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  #19  
Old 29th December 2009, 10:52 PM
Cobra289 Cobra289 is offline
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This like perfect position.
Seal with the car industry kits, ask for the bond type that is used for car bonnets.
Other solution is to use Epoxy Kit.
For all the the aplications the key is cleanness, make de bond area as clean as possible.

Regards,
Cobra289
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  #20  
Old 31st December 2009, 12:14 AM
Neil P Neil P is offline
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Seam welded mine all round the underside to stop any water getting in. Painted the inside which has filled up the gap between the floor and rails. Nothing fancy but looks effective at the moment.

Neil
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