#211
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It does Kevin! Good job on yours too.
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#212
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Well just come in from the garage after starting the job of chopping up the loom and soldering it all back together again. The chopping happen on Saturday I think or Friday and now the soldering of a much shorter loom with no joint connectors at all has finished, and f*** me it still starts, how surprised was I? I did weld a loose lighting wire to the chassis by accident at first which was a bit scary but yep started first time! Yet to do an led diagnostic on it yet but WOW. Must of spent 40+ hours in the garage over the last 4 days, thanks to the long weekend, lots of late nights and every spare hour out there with 2x 1kw heaters but worth it now. Couldn't sleep last night as I was having paranoid wiring dreams! And I have a cold!!
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#213
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JUST?? PFFFFT!!!!!!!!
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#214
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Well done Chris!
You did better than I did - I managed to swap two wires over when I shortened mine, and it took me chuffing ages to figure out why and get it running again! |
#215
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Cheers John, I couldn't quiet believe it, but it gets better! Been out the garage this morning and put together an led kit using an old immobiliser and no fault codes!! Big grin on my face!! Had to do it 4x as I again couldn't quiet believe it!
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#216
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Any chance of some photos showing fuse box location and where youre running your cables?
Cheers Stot
__________________
1.6 Mazda B6 : Garrett TBO339 : 420cc WRX Injectors : FMIC : Microsquirt V3 : LC-2 Wideband : Toyota COP : 1.8 ATB LSD Build Started Jan 2013 : OTR Aug 2014 : Still OTR June 2024 |
#217
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Here you are stot.
Wire for rad and maf run down the engine with the other engine wires. All engine wires come together at the back of the engine before a few of them go to the main engine earth point and the fuse/relay box. The rest of the wires, of which there are a lot, go down the side of the gearbox before coming up behind the imaginary dash. They then go to the instrument cluster, ECU, Ignition module, condenser thingy, diagnostic port, fuel pump relay, ignition barrel and, for now, eval valve thingy. They then go off to the back of the car for the tank and battery although I may move the battery to the engine compartment if I can. The loose wires are for the lighting system and will get waterproof connectors when they arrive. Last edited by CTWV50 : 4th April 2013 at 02:23 PM. |
#218
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Keeping all the wires for the engine etc to the center of the car, for me, was the simplest and easiest solution, I've removed every single jointing connection and every wire joint is soldered and heatshrinked, works great and was very cheap to do but if I do get a fault I would't want to be the one to try and find the fault. Some of the locations may change a small amount but not much. All the wiring pipes are from the MX5 saving more pennies!
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#219
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Quote:
Cheers Stot
__________________
1.6 Mazda B6 : Garrett TBO339 : 420cc WRX Injectors : FMIC : Microsquirt V3 : LC-2 Wideband : Toyota COP : 1.8 ATB LSD Build Started Jan 2013 : OTR Aug 2014 : Still OTR June 2024 |
#220
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Quote:
It seems nearly everybody is working on something electrical just lately and accomplishing a major mile stone with their build. Glad to hear you your car is running fine and I bet you are well chuffed....
__________________
Any intelligent fool can make things bigger and more complex... It takes a touch of genius - and a lot of courage to move in the opposite direction. Albert Einstein http://s1199.photobucket.com/albums/aa472/JohnoSS1/ Johno |
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