Upright machining?

[Talonmotorsport]

Thank god thats all over.......so about this reamer where's it from and what does it do again??? only joking

[twinturbo]

Originally Posted by Talonmotorsport

Thank god thats all over.......so about this reamer where's it from and what does it do again??? only joking

/
It cuts a hole the wrong shape, but the differance over the distance is so small it does not matter.

It's available from all good carpet suppliers by all accounts.

TT

[Peter-C]

To save me trolling through all the build photos, has anyone got a photo with the ball joint attached ?

Cheers

Peter

[AshG]

I was in axminster tools today the shop is only 2 mins down the road from me.

i worked this out ages ago im sure i posted it up. the axminster reamer is very very slightly off but i worked it out to be about 0.15mm out at the bottom of the taper over the thickness of the sierra hub that your reaming. rather than it being a pure 100% fit it was about 87% will see if i can find the cad drawing i did. was on my old laptop but i think i still have it.

either way there is more than enough material in contact. there is no chance it is ever going to wobble around in a thousand years.

don't forget if your reaming it out by hand you will never get a 100% perfect taper even with the perfect reamer.

[AshG]

Originally Posted by HandyAndy

i did mine as Dogwood suggests,

a little at a time, keep checking that you haven,t gone too far,

takes about 10 mins per upright, do it like tapping a thread, half turn in quarter turn back.... keeps the cutting edge of the reamer clean of swarf & helps get a clean cut on the steel.

cheers
andy

thats funny andy if you look at this quote of yours back in august you said it took you 15mins a side

Originally Posted by HandyAndy

took me about 15 minutes for eachside by hand, just keep checking that you don,t go too far,
whilst turning the reamer just keep downwards pressure on it so that it is actually cutting.

andy

thats a sign of working too many long hours, you loose all perspective of time

[Big Vern]

1992 - 1995 Cavalier has exact same taper/pin dimensions to the one in the Sierra TCA. I used it on a previous project years ago though it would require a slight redesign of the lower wishbone.

As for hand reaming the taper I'm guessing the hand reamer has the same 14°taper as the ball joint but how can the hand reamer be accurately controlled to prevent it 'wobbling' as you ream? I didn't think this type of tool was for reaming such a deep hole with required level of accuracy.
I thought it was for de-burring holes and providing 'lead' in to holes

BV.

[AshG]

i cant seem to find one where it was fully finished but here you go. you need to ream it deep enough so that the rubber is almost touching the hub. i did the first one by hand. even though i through drilled it before i started, it still took about 30 mins. the second one i couldn't be arsed with so clamped the buggar on the cross slide vice and done it on the lathe, still took a while but didnt kill my hand and the result was much better.









if anyone wants i can sell you a made to order, modified axminster reamer that will fit in a 13mm chuck. £12 including postage.

[Big Vern]

Hi Ash,
Did you put the ream in the chuck and clamp the upright to the Xslide?
I need to do something similar with the top for the MX-5 uprights to take the Tranny van ball joint.

BV.

[AshG]

yes i have clamp attachments for my cross slide, so reamer in the chuck line it up an off we go. it put a fair bit of stress on the lathe but keeping the rpm down and plenty of oil helped. after doing it i decided that a better method would have been to turn the end of the reamer down to 13mm so it would fit in the chuck on the pillar drill.

[Peter-C]

Cheers Ash for the photos, exactly what I wanted.

Peter