New Build thread

[Davidbolam]

Originally Posted by K4KEV

After much trolling the internet and ebay last week for a tight radius rolled tip stainless exhaust end and not finding anything remotely suitable, I do what I usually do and make my own....now in doing that it means I can be different as usual. So here is a quick run down of how I made it.
First raid the scrap bin for a piece of 2" stainless exhaust pipe, then give the bit I'm using a polish up and scrape the carbon out from inside, then I give the piece a 45 degree cut then mark out the next angled cut to intersect the first one, now grabbed the first offcut and gave it a bash or two to flatten the steel, now using the 45 degree angle as a template mark out on the flat piece of steel. Now attack with angry grinder until correct shape, when that has I nice fit its back onto the tig table and weld it onto the exhaust tip grind back then polish up with a powerfile ......now to achieve the "rolled tip" I silver soldered a length of shaped brake pipe onto the exhaust exit, the following pictures will make sense of what I have just described.

Kev,

The exhaust pipe I bought hasn't got a rolled end so I am going to try using the same method as you. Ie soldering on some brake pipe. (this bit might not even fall off after its test as I know I will rip my trousers on it!!.

My question is do you need a special solder to weld the copper to stainless or can I use standard solder?

Thanks

David

[CTWV50]

I'd use plumbers lead solder. Electrical solder (tin) melts at around 200˚C

[K4KEV]

Hi David....I would be very surprised if any kind of solder would reach melting point on an exhaust tip, but I used silver solder because of its compatability with stainless steel ...trouble is you really need oxy/acet to get a good result or at least map gas, propane will work if torch is mixed with compressed air but not high pressure......a good flux is essential because the steel will readily oxidize....you know where I am if you need it doing.
Has to be a rolled tip for the IVA by the way

[K4KEV]

Nearly forgot that I will need my MAF connecting for an engine start, so I have had to move on to that .....air feed into the turbo was a little problematic in that there is not a great deal of space, so a little mish mash of pipes and I have a workable point from which I can gaffer tape the MAF just to get an engine start, and then plumb it up properly when I decide where to put a cone type filter. I found that welding ordinary aluminium to cast alloy requires a lot of patience and a good handfull of sharpened tungsten electrodes ....got ther in the end though

[flyerncle]

It is suprising where the exhaust heat will go even at speed in the Roadster,I was in Spuds car for a few laps at Teeside and my forearm got burnt just resting on the side panel.

Should start without the MAF in a pipe Kev,just plug it in so it knows its there.

[thailoz]

Hi Kev just read your build thread from the start to now...I would just like to say that the standard of your build is awe inspiring , the thought and detail you have put in are really making at roadster of your own,
you have spurred me on to come to the decision to start my chassis build asap and find a donor later .

Great read looking forward to you getting to the interior .

Laurence

[K4KEV]

Thanks for that heads up Paul and thank you for the kind words Laurence.
I had forgotten how complex the wiring was.....having to work backwards a bit to remind me how I spliced into the sierra loom, so out with my little 12v tester and multimeter.

[flyerncle]

Leave the DLC in if you can to access the diagnostic's and I can hook up to it if needs be.

I can get wring diagrams if your stuck.

[K4KEV]

fraid not Paul ....they do not have any DL or OBD on the CA18DET engines they are the old fashioned red/green led through a window on the ECU and count the flashes to determine the faults ( had a Cherry Turbo once with the same set up right pita) will need to make sure I place my ECU so I can see that window lol

[flyerncle]

Just a thought,