#41
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Plumb up the brakes do the loom then bodywork that way you won't damage your panels while doing the above..is that a tad further than you got before? if so "carry on and keep at it"
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#42
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yep never got the old one rolling, I might tinker with a few small things like brake lines and other small jobs whilst I try and save up some cash for the bodywork
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Build Cost so far £xxx (Given up adding it up) - She Starts!! Build Thread Here: http://www.haynes.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?t=5501 |
#43
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She cranks
I gave my build a bit of rest after the big push to get her rolling.
This month though I decided I start to get the engine running. First up getting the starter circuit sorted. First up was a battery, I managed to pick up a brand new oddessey PC545 fom a fellow builder for a really good price. Its a very small battery but seems to crank the engine just great I only did a basic circuit for the starter, + to starter neg to engine, and a flying lead to the solenoid plus saw her cranking over. I connected an old indicator to the oil pressure swith and to the positive on the battery but his didn't go out during cranking. I have absolutely nothing else on the engine, theres a large breather at the back drivers side, I blocked that off but still no light out, any other tips as I'm confident it either the a faulty sender or its loosing its pressure somewhere rather than a dodgey oil pump pick up? I've also ordered a fiesta coil pack with HT leads for a grand total of £4.99 this should connect up to the edis module stanalone to give a basic spark to get her running. All thats needed now is some carb and an inlet (i might try her on the old sierra carb as as starter for ten)
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Build Cost so far £xxx (Given up adding it up) - She Starts!! Build Thread Here: http://www.haynes.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?t=5501 |
#44
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Mike,
I had a simiilar problem with my 1.6 cvh. Oil pressure switch was working fine. I took the sump off injected oil straight into the pump. No matter how long I cranked it for it would not turn the oil pressure light off. I looked on one of the ford forums and apparently it is a common thing on the 1.6 cvh. In the end I just started it and it went out within a few seconds.
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http://s831.photobucket.com/user/dav...ter%20Pictures OTR 01/05/14 - 1.6 CVH, Type 9, Bike Carbs, Megajolt |
#45
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Mine wouldn't go out either with hand cranking or when the engine was spinning from the starter but not starting up. Once I got it running though the light went out after 5-10 seconds.
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#46
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I had a go a wiring up a simple ignition circuit for my CVH just using the EDIS module and coil pack
IMAG0307 by mjb22001, on Flickr edis4 by mjb22001, on Flickr I did get a spark when cranking the engine over but it seemed a little weak. So i wondered if I had it wired correctly. The black wire is the positive feed to the coil pack and edis. I didnt' have the 25uf suppression to ground fitted as I dont' have whatever a 25uf looks like Also I wasn't 100% sure on the terminals 1 and 3 on the coil pack The leads and plugs are fairly old also. Any thoughts
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Build Cost so far £xxx (Given up adding it up) - She Starts!! Build Thread Here: http://www.haynes.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?t=5501 |
#47
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The ht leads dont fit the cvh head so I wandered what any ones anyone have used?
Also what spark plugs? as apparantly this can have an effect when swapping to EDIS
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Build Cost so far £xxx (Given up adding it up) - She Starts!! Build Thread Here: http://www.haynes.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?t=5501 |
#48
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25 uf is a 25 micro farad capacitor. Available from rs maplins etc.
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#49
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Quote:
I think i used fiesta leads or ford ka, just went to local motor factors and looked at a few ford sets from around the coilpack era until i found some |
#50
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The Radio Supressor should nto make any difference on starting, it's often even ommited from the ford diagrams.
TT
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You only get a woosh with a dump valve Build Thread Man Cave Mantiques Cecil Street Auto Repairs Garage Carlisle Build Cost £4181.65 - Last - Wheel Cylinders |
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