#51
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in ref to br1-12 when it says... "when you are happy with the fit of these tubes, tack weld them together, working on one side of the chassis then the other to minimise any distortion" do they mean tack every tube on 1 side then tack ever weld on the other? as i personaly would normaly do 1 tack on 1 side then 1 on the other to keep it even. Advice welcome!
Also when should i fully weld as i need to move the chassis from the jig to do the rear end. Also i dont have the gearbox or diff yet so i cant do the tunnel enterance or exit yet (end next week) Last edited by Eternal : 2nd July 2010 at 08:18 PM. |
#52
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Are the front frame uprights ment to run parallel down the length of the frame? having a bit of trouble with a complete front frame i bought. If i get the top level its way way out on the 75mm from the front measurement. and also 1mm too low. if i pull it forward on the top it goes to the right hight but the ff4 has a slope. Guess i should untack it and check to make sure its true. Damn really wanted to not have to mess around with the front frame. Also i think its slightly twisted if i get the front dead level the the top ends of f4 are slightly off by about 3mm from each other. Just check the elbows of the bends and ff3 is 3mil sticking out from the width of f4 and f2 is 1mil sticking out. Maby its me i duno what do you guys think? Good news is the frame base is all tacked now. Did a tack then did another on other side.. must have walked miles lol
Last edited by Eternal : 5th July 2010 at 10:33 AM. |
#53
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Can anyone post a pic of the join between u3 and u6 i cant tell from the book how they are ment to be aligned.
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#54
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Right finished making new front frame all sorted fits perfect first time with no messing around Installed one of the top rails to test and was perfect no gaps at all. Feel well chuffed as was worried about making my own front frame heh. What a day! right time for lots of beer tv and bed lol
Oh and for anyone who cares here is a pic. (note old frame on floor! lol might chop it up for extra metal) Last edited by Eternal : 3rd July 2010 at 10:45 PM. |
#55
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humm can anyone tell me when i should start to fully weld this beast i notice that the seat back sb1 will cover the unwelded join of br13-br5/6. Also i dont have the gearbox or dif yet so i cant tack sb4 yet or u7/8
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#56
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#57
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Good day today got U1 and U2 sorted.
Also going to get my gearbox tomorrow £200! for the slimline skyline gearbox. Wed im getting 18m of 20x20x1.5mm erw box and 18m of 25x25x2mm erw box £75. Thu im going for a little drive to pick up a diff,prop shaft,slave cyl and drive shafts for £120 oh also found these on the Locostbuilders forum. " Front Hubs Brand New discs when I built my car , Fitted with MK Mushroom Top Inserts factory reconditioned brake calipers ,new Pads. Brakes have done a few hundred miles only. £50" + i bought the 4 ball joints for £10 Happy days! |
#58
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gearbox wooo and modded u1/2 to fit extended enginebay and still use stock wishbones. |
#59
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And as if by magic 24h later! the limoster is getting there
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#60
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Nice work Eternal
I can see where CP24 goes cheers andy
__________________
Flat Pack Chassis Kits for sale, contact me at andyroadster@yahoo.co.uk |
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