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  #81  
Old 6th January 2015, 03:47 PM
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voucht voucht is offline
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Hi,

Have look here:
www.haynes.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?t=13563

I just published 3D drawings of all the bodywork from Equinox with measurements in agreement with Dave @ Equinox Products.

Hope this can help you to mock-up

Good luck.
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  #82  
Old 6th January 2015, 09:23 PM
Rosco Rosco is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by voucht View Post
Hi,

Have look here:
www.haynes.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?t=13563

I just published 3D drawings of all the bodywork from Equinox with measurements in agreement with Dave @ Equinox Products.

Hope this can help you to mock-up

Good luck.
Cheers, very helpful!
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  #83  
Old 6th January 2015, 09:23 PM
Rosco Rosco is offline
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Engine position thoughts

Access to all areas of the engine, to save removing the engine if anything needs replacing

Keeping some weight upfront to help keep some heat in the tyres

Height wise, keep the sump flush with the bottom of the chassis, this means you can run the whole car an inch lower than if the sump was sitting below by an inch,
I thought this was really good advice and made a lot of sense

On the piss, just seems to fit better for the exhaust and loads are mounted like this so must be ok for the prop

I don't want to drop the engine down as I want the underside flush, and an inch wouldn't solve the problem, looks like I'm going to have to mod the bonnet with a scoop or just use a filter like you say and let it sit out the top, also I've got to refit the top injectors,







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  #84  
Old 6th January 2015, 11:01 PM
jps jps is offline
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Pics didn't come out so well - but I did get some measurements - taken from the Equinox scuttle front edge and the nosecone back edge (i.e. each end of where the bonnet will sit). I'd say that as a minimum you've got 260mm clearance at the scuttle end (above the level of the top chassis rails) and 200mm at the nosecone end. The Equinox nosecone comes back to just about where your left foot ends in the pic earlier on this thread - i.e. just behind where the triangulation is at the front of the chassis.
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  #85  
Old 6th January 2015, 11:02 PM
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Forgot to mention, those measurements were from roughly the centre of the chassis - both the nosecone and the scuttle are quite flat topped with relatively steep sides compared to some other 7-type bodywork.
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  #86  
Old 7th January 2015, 10:17 AM
flyerncle flyerncle is offline
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Before you go to far think about oil surge and how to stop it.the engine is not meant to run fitted in the frame that way so the oil will run away from the pick up.


Could save you plenty hassle
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  #87  
Old 7th January 2015, 08:02 PM
Rosco Rosco is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by flyerncle View Post
Before you go to far think about oil surge and how to stop it.the engine is not meant to run fitted in the frame that way so the oil will run away from the pick up.


Could save you plenty hassle
Yeah, I'm going to run a billet sump that's baffled to stop any surge
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  #88  
Old 9th January 2015, 09:00 PM
Rosco Rosco is offline
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Well had a measure up for my engine cradle and made some paper templates



Looked ok so drew them up and got them laser cut out



So that's a job for the weekend, also got a polo rad to get mounted

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  #89  
Old 9th January 2015, 11:53 PM
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SeriesLandy SeriesLandy is offline
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Looking good so far.

Don't forget space for a fan between the rad core and front frame. I did!
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  #90  
Old 10th January 2015, 06:40 PM
Rosco Rosco is offline
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Originally Posted by SeriesLandy View Post
Looking good so far.

Don't forget space for a fan between the rad core and front frame. I did!
Cheers, will do
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