looks like I f**ked up!

[onedayTM]

After a long, long time away have been able to get back on it now. have just started to get all suspension parts together and put on. with the rear hub assembly on it looks like it is not parallel to chassis rails. viewing from top it runs out to the left on the nearside hub. As there is no adjustment to the toe in what effect will it have to the ride? It runs out about 1mm over a foot which I feel is alot.
cheers
tony

[ayjay]

How did you even see a misalignment that small. I can say quite confidently that if mine were accurately measured my hair would stand on end(if I had any )

IVA man said it handled nicely on steering, braking ,self centre etc

I believe there was a Renault some years back which had a rear wheel about 1" forward of the other for some peculiar French design reason. They made a selling point out of it.

[alga]

Between my bearing carriers and drum plates there are 3 shims out of 0.1 mm aluminium beer can foil, and one out of 1 mm ali sheet, tapered a bit with a hammer



That's how you tune rear toe on these things. I've set mine to about 0.5 degree toe in. I measure it by clamping a long spirit level ot just a straight piece of chassis tube to the rear hub face with the drum off. Then just measure the difference of the distance from the side chassis rail over 80 cm from the rear of the cockpit to the start of taper. Some simple trig: sin(x) ~= x for small angles (in radians). If you get, say, 2 mm difference at 80 cm away, you have:

2 / 800 * 180 / 3.14 = 0.14°,

or 8'36" toe in at that wheel.

The book recommends 0 rear toe, but I've seen that Westfield World recommends 0.5-1 degree toe in both rear and front. So I've set it up with a bit or rear toe now.

P.S. One beer can shim corrects the angle by about 4'.

[onedayTM]

cheers guys, right then albert, I did what you did to measure over a distance up to where the chassis goes narrow and mine was 4mm out. So to get mine set at 0 degrees then I need to either shim out as you suggest or remake suspension arms with adjustable rod ends' something like what the MX5 one I have seen somewhere, might be johns.

[SteveMX5]

Originally Posted by onedayTM

After a long, long time away have been able to get back on it now. have just started to get all suspension parts together and put on. with the rear hub assembly on it looks like it is not parallel to chassis rails. viewing from top it runs out to the left on the nearside hub. As there is no adjustment to the toe in what effect will it have to the ride? It runs out about 1mm over a foot which I feel is alot.
cheers
tony

Ahh the good old Renault 4 one torsion bar was in front of the other hence wheelbase was an inch shorter on one side. And we think their electrics are bad

[Johno]

Hi Tony,
Well I'm building an MX5 with adjustable rear wishbones so I guess these are the ones you are talking about..



Bottoms are adjustable as well as per Saturns design, but I think I might change them at some point for rose joints as well.
All the rose joints I have used are Ultra High Strength ones from McGill Motorsport M12x1.25mm fine thread.

[alga]

Another option is to widen out the suspension bracket holes and use an excentric adjuster, like this:

[flyerncle]

The reason for problems with french cars in this country stem back to Agincourt,when we kicked their ass in a battle.

[jps]

Originally Posted by onedayTM

cheers guys, right then albert, I did what you did to measure over a distance up to where the chassis goes narrow and mine was 4mm out. So to get mine set at 0 degrees then I need to either shim out as you suggest or remake suspension arms with adjustable rod ends' something like what the MX5 one I have seen somewhere, might be johns.

From reading other threads about geo-setup I think the use of shims is fairly standard - so I wouldn't worry if you end up with that solution...

[jason 82]

Johno, where did you get your mx5 coilovers from please ? Can you remember the spec as well ? Sorry to be a pain.