engine clearance

[BenBrooks]

I'm thinking that I need to move my engine up a fair amount as i have next to no ground clearance. unfortunately, my bellhousing is getting very close to the bulkhead front crossmember. Question is, is 11mm clearance between the top of the bellhousing and the cross member enough? Or should I go to 21mm? I can't go more than this without moving the engine forward slightly (remaking the engine mounts) and/or shortening the sump as I have to clear 100mm ground clearance.

cheers

Ben

[Talonmotorsport]

Has any body else thought that the chassis was not intended to take the choice of modern engines, if it's not the sump that needs chopping and welding back up it's having to make holes in the bonnet to clear bits that stick out. I'm wondering if you swapped the lower rails for 50x25 section it would solve a few problems with out changing the cutting list/design in any way and may even add some rigidity to the chassis at the same time, could it be that simple?

[Short]

Not really Talon. As the front wishbone bracket sits on top of the bottom chassis rails, the wheels will sit the same distance from the top of the car. So the extra 25mm you gain in using 50x25 just reduces your clearance even more. Plus any ready made bodywork may struggle to fit the extra 25mm height.

[Talonmotorsport]

Ah yes you are indeed correct I forgot that small matter, I've been up since 5:30 so maybe not fully aware yet.

Edit: how ever it would mean you could get away with it if you used 16" rims or 50-60 profile tyres? GRP side panels would not fit but if you make your own from sheet material every thing else would fit.

[BenBrooks]

Well i'm using a 1700 crossflow which is about the smallest engine in these things other than bike engine so i don't know how everyone else is managing

[twinturbo]

Originally Posted by Short

Not really Talon. As the front wishbone bracket sits on top of the bottom chassis rails, the wheels will sit the same distance from the top of the car. So the extra 25mm you gain in using 50x25 just reduces your clearance even more. Plus any ready made bodywork may struggle to fit the extra 25mm height.

just add an extra 25mm section on the top rail at the scuttle and nose, and a 25mm section on the bonnet. Effective but may spoil the look.

rather than alter the chassis the bodywork needs to by altered to take account of the taller installs, but again this may spoil the look. I guess we need some CGI of a standard car with a 25mm and 50mm body stretch.

TT

[Stot]

Originally Posted by twinturbo

just add an extra 25mm section on the top rail at the scuttle and nose, and a 25mm section on the bonnet. Effective but may spoil the look.

rather than alter the chassis the bodywork needs to by altered to take account of the taller installs, but again this may spoil the look. I guess we need some CGI of a standard car with a 25mm and 50mm body stretch.

TT

I think I read that the Equinox bodywork bonnet is 25mm higher anyway so would follow the nose and scuttle are too.

Cheers
Stot

[beardydave]

Originally Posted by twinturbo

just add an extra 25mm section on the top rail at the scuttle and nose, and a 25mm section on the bonnet. Effective but may spoil the look.

rather than alter the chassis the bodywork needs to by altered to take account of the taller installs, but again this may spoil the look. I guess we need some CGI of a standard car with a 25mm and 50mm body stretch.

TT

Give me till I'm back from holiday in a couple of weeks and I'll draw up any size body shape you want.

I'm having trouble fitting my saab lump in. It's a tall engine with a big bellmouth, and I want a full undertray. I've added 50mm to my scuttle and bonnet and I still have a bulge!