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  #1  
Old 1st November 2009, 08:30 PM
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dogwood dogwood is offline
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Default Brake bias bar question

Evening all

I just bought a pair of brake master cylinders from Coozer
Now all I need to know is how to fit them...
I know I need to buy or make a brake bias bar, but not sure where to go from there.
Can anyone point me in the right direction.

Cheers David.

Edit.....I've just Googled it, now I'm even more confused.....

Last edited by dogwood : 1st November 2009 at 09:09 PM.
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  #2  
Old 1st November 2009, 10:36 PM
Cobra289 Cobra289 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dogwood View Post
Evening all

I just bought a pair of brake master cylinders from Coozer
Now all I need to know is how to fit them...
I know I need to buy or make a brake bias bar, but not sure where to go from there.
Can anyone point me in the right direction.

Cheers David.

Edit.....I've just Googled it, now I'm even more confused.....
The most frequent used cylinders for a balance bar are the Girling and Wilwood, both are the same.

The template to make the holes can be seen here bellow, but that is when you use a balance bar with 63,5 mm [that is equal to the distance between the cylinders.



What I am afraid is that you make a bad selection of the cylinders.
You mention that you all ready have those ones.
Now be careful because the selection is very important and depends from your car and the components used on the build.

To bring a balance in the brake system you start with a balanced selection of the cylinders, than the fine adjustment you do with the balance bar.

I did made a excel sheet for the calculation, but it is in Spanish.
It looks like this:



All the calculations are related to the weight of the car, the weight trasfer, etc. etc.

Here is a picture where I explain the the Spanish guys how to do it.



As you can see there is needed some calculation to get it right.

Regards,
Cobra289
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  #3  
Old 1st November 2009, 10:46 PM
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dogwood dogwood is offline
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Thanks for the reply Cobra......I think.

Now I am definatly confused, I have enough trouble with English
Anyway the masters I bought were as supplied by MNR. 0.625 and 0.75.
So I am reasonably happy they will be OK for my app.

Just not sure how to attach the balance bar to the brake pedal.
Once I figured that I can worry about how to balance them,

David
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  #4  
Old 1st November 2009, 11:03 PM
Cobra289 Cobra289 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dogwood View Post
Thanks for the reply Cobra......I think.

Now I am definatly confused, I have enough trouble with English
Anyway the masters I bought were as supplied by MNR. 0.625 and 0.75.
So I am reasonably happy they will be OK for my app.

Just not sure how to attach the balance bar to the brake pedal.
Once I figured that I can worry about how to balance them,

David
The balance bar has a tube with an outside diameter of 30 mm, now you can make a hole of 30 mm at the center of the hole of 6.5 mm of the Haynes pedal.
You will get a halve hole of gap that is located at the 31 mm as the book mention.

There you weld the tube of 30 mm of the balance bar and probably you will get a good setup.
You need to know that you will have more surface at the cylinders compared to the Sierra cylinder so that means that you will need to have a heavy force at the pedal, or you change the pedal ratio [make it longer]

Regards,
Cobra289
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Old 1st November 2009, 11:13 PM
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dogwood dogwood is offline
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Thanks for that one Cobra.
I didn't realise there was a weldable tube with the bar.
I thought it was some sort of bearing.
Not seen one up close, only on the web.
And longer pedals is my plan anyway, because I find the clutch a bit sharp when in traffic. (Big Feet Like Bonzo )

David
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  #6  
Old 1st November 2009, 11:18 PM
Cobra289 Cobra289 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dogwood View Post
Thanks for that one Cobra.
I didn't realise there was a weldable tube with the bar.
I thought it was some sort of bearing.
Not seen one up close, only on the web.
And longer pedals is my plan anyway, because I find the clutch a bit sharp when in traffic. (Big Feet Like Bonzo )

David
Yes! you get a weldable tube of 30 mm dia, with a balance bar, the balance bar itself has indeed a spherical bearing like the ones of the rod-ends.

Once you have weld [not to much penetration] you need to clean-out the inside of the tube, because the balance bar need to slide inside the tube.
Use a hand hone machine like the ones used for honing of the master cylinders.

Regards,
Cobra289
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Last edited by Cobra289 : 1st November 2009 at 11:20 PM.
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  #7  
Old 2nd November 2009, 11:30 AM
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davidimurray davidimurray is offline
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You don't have to weld the tube in - it can also be pressed in which is what I used to do on Alu pedals
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Old 2nd November 2009, 12:06 PM
Cobra289 Cobra289 is offline
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Originally Posted by davidimurray View Post
You don't have to weld the tube in - it can also be pressed in which is what I used to do on Alu pedals
To do that you need to use two plates instead of the single plate of 5 mm pedal.
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Old 2nd November 2009, 02:06 PM
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davidimurray davidimurray is offline
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Or just press a tube into another tube. I actually thought you were not supposed to weld the tube as they were case hardened.
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  #10  
Old 2nd November 2009, 06:15 PM
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Check this pic out, balance bar has a bearing in the middle that slides along the brake pedal letting the force be moved across from front to back.

http://www.demon-tweeks.co.uk/produc...&pcode=OBP0040

This one from Rally Design looks like it comes with the tube needed to be welded to the pedal.

http://www.rallydesign.co.uk/product_info.php?cPath=562_580_581&products_id=406 2

Hope that helps.

Steve
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