#1
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Ford 4x4 cossie chassis build ?
Hi me again and in the planing now for my 4x4 build.
I am hoping ( i did say hoping, LOL ) to build a 4x4 with the donor sierra runnnig gear and V6 24v cossie engine etc, now then. First thing i want to do is get on with the chassis build, your opinions on the chassis build please, i was thinking to build the standard Haynes chassis then when i have the engine/running gear to modify the chassis to fit the gear and go from there. I understand i will need to widen the etc but think this will be best once i have the chassis as a whole. Wayne |
#2
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I think the biggest challenge lies at the front. The diff needs to be removed from the sump and remounting where the steering rack lives to make any sense of the driveshaft alignment to the front wheels. the drive shafts are then in the way of the front springs/shocks. Really the whole front of the car would need re engineering. Not impossible but a lot of work. Dax did it on the 4x4 rush http://classiccars.brightwells.com/v...ils.php?id=446.
bob
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When The Results Disagree With The Theory: Believe The Results And Invent A New Theory If I had two brains I,d still be a halfwit The cave http://s1116.photobucket.com/user/my...deshow/mancave The build http://www.haynes.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?t=12669 Last edited by robo : 11th October 2012 at 09:45 PM. |
#3
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If your hell bent on a 4x4 roadster then you might want to look at an Impreza as it will be so much easier to make, I have the front end of a chassis already fabbed as I was going to do a flat four build. Just push the lump as far forward as you can get it and pull the front wishbones back a 100-150mm to keep the drive shaft angles some where near acceptable.
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#4
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If your gonna build the chassis to take the 4x4 gearbox then i would start by measuring the box compared with the 2wd version and widen the chassis in the beginning as you need the room for the front shaft running by the pedal box. since your going down the V6 route then the option of moving the engine over to accomodate the shaft isnt available.
I dont see that being the big problem. The front suspension, steering and driveshaft trying to occupy the same space might be the problem. you may have to move the suspension inboard but space will be tight. |
#5
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This is just my opinion, so if you have the time, space and skill to design and build an entire car from scratch, without plans, go for it. But most people who come on here with crazy plans, based loosely on the Haynes design, lose interest very quickly when they realise how much extra work is involved and how hard it is to redesign the front suspension.
I do recall a similar project, but the guy was using a mondeo V6 in a transverse position, again based on the Haynes design. The chassis was such an ugly monster, suspension totally butchered and the engine was so far forward I doubt it got very far. He certainly stopped posting on here. Its just not really in the spirit of a Lotus Seven copy.
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Built/IVA'd Roadster - RS2000 16v, ZX6R, Megajolt |
#6
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Quote:
I,m all for people trying something different, but as Deezee says, sadly most that do tend to lose interest & the project fails etc. Tho, i,m not convinced that a 4x4 seven style car is the way to go ( INMHO), as the idea in my opinion is for a well balanced car that can be driven & controlled with delicate "right foot" use to be JUST on the point of the rear end breaking lose in a controlled fashion so to speak But, all just my own opinion of course cheers andy
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#7
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Quote:
I am still waiting for a progress update http://www.haynes.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?t=3607 I have all the parts spare to do 4x4 stuff, but it is a major undertaking especial on a RHD car as the transfer box & prop encroaches on the drivers side compartment. I would build a mock up of the front frame area and see how the diff, shafts, rack, hubs, suspension, etc go together. If you get a good solution then work on from there. Remember that the 4x4 front geometry is different to the 2wd so you will have to try and tweek that too. TT
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You only get a woosh with a dump valve Build Thread Man Cave Mantiques Cecil Street Auto Repairs Garage Carlisle Build Cost £4181.65 - Last - Wheel Cylinders |
#8
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4X4 and why not??????? If I had the time I would have a go at that. Anyone who has driven a tt 4x4 sierra would understand . Its not about whats best or lightest or fastest its about personal choice. It can and should be done with the help of the forum just to add another flavour to the roadster. If would be kin brilliant. Certainly no wheelspin off the line I have all this stuff here in the yard I might just lay it out in the mule to see how it all looks.
Bob
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When The Results Disagree With The Theory: Believe The Results And Invent A New Theory If I had two brains I,d still be a halfwit The cave http://s1116.photobucket.com/user/my...deshow/mancave The build http://www.haynes.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?t=12669 |
#9
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How do all, i do know that this would not be for the purist of 7 style cars, as it is far from that, am i so far from a purist you would laugh at some things i have built, well half built, i have all the time i need, no rush and knowing me i would sell it not long after it was running, i do these things and enjoy the build more than anything ,so
i was wondering what alterations i would need to do to a chassis and as i have the build book here, i am willing to build a chassis from scratch myself, not that i have a bloody clue LOL, therefore modify one. After all the thought i will still be going Ford V6 gear, gong to get what i need and lay it out and measure up toward chassis plans if need be build my own death trap LOL Seriously though, i dont mind a bit of head ache and love to learn new things. I hope when i get started i can rely on you guys for guidance as and when i need it which i will, and not get TO slated for it if and when it goes wrong |
#10
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IIRC the transfer shaft from a DOHC 4x4 unbolts from the sump. which may be helpful.
TT
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You only get a woosh with a dump valve Build Thread Man Cave Mantiques Cecil Street Auto Repairs Garage Carlisle Build Cost £4181.65 - Last - Wheel Cylinders |
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