Haynes Forums  

Go Back   Haynes Forums > Haynes Roadster Forums > Bodywork and interior
FAQ Members List Calendar Search Today's Posts Mark Forums Read

Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
  #1  
Old 1st April 2012, 05:55 PM
baz-r baz-r is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2009
Posts: 1,464
Default what order to fit grp body bits?

well i got all my bits now and have trimmed a few bits and bobs to alow panels to be placed on the chassis.
to get best fit what is the best order to go about it?
like does the sides go under the scuttle or do i trim out the area where the scuttle fits to top rail? same where the nose goes etc.
then there is the side to tub interface?
im was thinking of order

1. rear tub
2. sides
3. nose
4. scuttle
5. bonnet

last thing i want is a mistake
Reply With Quote
  #2  
Old 1st April 2012, 06:05 PM
HandyAndy's Avatar
HandyAndy HandyAndy is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: cleveland
Posts: 3,917
Default

I,d suggest the following.....

fit nose
position bonnet on top of nose which determines the precise position of the scuttle.

remove nose, bonnet, scuttle...

fit side panels...D9 & D10 are useful to determine where the side panels meet the rear tub. ( would suggest that all pedal box fitment is complete, otherwise you,ll end up with your head in the footwell with legs sticking up in the air , been there ).

then fit rear tub

then fit rear wings to rear tub ( my tub is rivnutted to the chassis & wings bolted to the tub so that if needed I can remove it all in one go )

then refit the nose, bonnet & scuttle.

Depending where you have welded SW1 to the chassis you may need to cut a little notch out of the scuttle to allow it to sit on top of the side panel/chassis top rail.

edit..... no need to remove any of the side panel top edge where the scuttle is, scuttle is fine to sit on top of it, you "might" need to remove some of the top edge of the side panels to allow a good fit of the nose so that the nose sits directly on top of the chassis rails.

hth.

cheers
andy
__________________
Flat Pack Chassis Kits for sale, contact me at andyroadster@yahoo.co.uk

Last edited by HandyAndy : 1st April 2012 at 06:10 PM. Reason: extra info
Reply With Quote
  #3  
Old 1st April 2012, 06:10 PM
twinturbo's Avatar
twinturbo twinturbo is offline
Super Moderator
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Carlisle
Posts: 4,393
Default

I fitted my side panels before the nose as the nose sits on top of the side panels.

Just my thoughts...

TT
__________________
You only get a woosh with a dump valve

Build Thread


Man Cave Mantiques



Cecil Street Auto Repairs Garage Carlisle




Build Cost £4181.65 - Last - Wheel Cylinders
Reply With Quote
  #4  
Old 1st April 2012, 06:11 PM
baz-r baz-r is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2009
Posts: 1,464
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by HandyAndy View Post
fit side panels ( would suggest that all pedal box fitment is complete, otherwise you,ll end up with your head in the footwell with legs sticking up in the air , been there ).
no problem there as i have a top mounted, drop down pedalbox
Reply With Quote
  #5  
Old 1st April 2012, 06:18 PM
HandyAndy's Avatar
HandyAndy HandyAndy is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: cleveland
Posts: 3,917
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by baz-r View Post
no problem there as i have a top mounted, drop down pedalbox
Good thinking
__________________
Flat Pack Chassis Kits for sale, contact me at andyroadster@yahoo.co.uk
Reply With Quote
  #6  
Old 1st April 2012, 06:20 PM
shh120m's Avatar
shh120m shh120m is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: thirsk
Posts: 557
Default

A good tip when ataching the rear tub and sides at their intersecion is to use 3 rivnuts slap bang in the centre of the rail, two lower ones with spreader washers. The best way of doing the top one is to do it up through the rear wing flange. That way you have a nice join line, the wing clamps the two panels flush and all of the fixings are hidden by the wing
__________________
A few build photos... www.photobucket.com/ntsengineering
Reply With Quote
  #7  
Old 1st April 2012, 07:10 PM
MarkB MarkB is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: May 2011
Location: naughty step most of the time
Posts: 494
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by baz-r View Post
well i got all my bits now and have trimmed a few bits and bobs to alow panels to be placed on the chassis.
to get best fit what is the best order to go about it?
like does the sides go under the scuttle or do i trim out the area where the scuttle fits to top rail? same where the nose goes etc.
then there is the side to tub interface?
im was thinking of order

1. rear tub
2. sides
3. nose
4. scuttle
5. bonnet

last thing i want is a mistake
Pre fit the sides, hold them in place with clecos then line up the scuttle with the angle change on the side panels(rear edge of scuttle sits right on the angle change) temp fit it. Then bonnet then nose cone should if you have made the chassis the right length the nose sits all but touching the top front rail..........simples
Reply With Quote
  #8  
Old 22nd July 2012, 08:42 PM
baz-r baz-r is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2009
Posts: 1,464
Default

i have all my main body clamped up to settle into shape for an age now.
i have all the bolt holes sorted for my nose and scuttle.
what i need to do now is do my final fix on my sides.
what is my best option for fixing it?
my plan was to use pu to seal the area between the grp and tubes in my cockpit areas or should i just do it all? i cant see i will need to remove them
i have bolts that clamp the sides where the scuttle and nose are but do i need more fixings along the top (flush) and i was planing just to rivit every 12" on the under side or is this over kill?
i have seen eveything from pu and minimal riviting to one evey 3"

then i will need to fix my rear panel so its removable so i was going for rivnuts and bolts
Reply With Quote
  #9  
Old 22nd July 2012, 08:53 PM
flyerncle flyerncle is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: gateshead,near cobbly bit of A1 North
Posts: 3,188
Default

"P" trim for the rear wing to tub fit will finish it off niceley.
I personally will split the panel above the pedal box,as Handy says anything you attempt after its all put together is virtually impossible in that area.
__________________
Cost : Little as possible.
Thanks : To those who by their generosity my build has progressed.
Its a handmade sports car not a flaming kit car !!!


If at first you dont succeed,avoid skydiving...

No parachute require to freefall,only if you want to do it twice.
Reply With Quote
  #10  
Old 22nd July 2012, 08:59 PM
baz-r baz-r is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2009
Posts: 1,464
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by flyerncle View Post
I personally will split the panel above the pedal box,as Handy says anything you attempt after its all put together is virtually impossible in that area.
its not a problem im going to have as i have a pedal box at the top with pedals that hang down.
Reply With Quote
Reply


Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

vB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Forum Jump


All times are GMT +1. The time now is 03:19 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.6.4
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.