#1
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Big leak...
In prep for starting up my engine soon as I finally got most of the wiring sorted I filled the engine up with oil today. As I was pouring the oil into the rocker cover, a small amount would leak from where I think was the sump near the engine mount / oil pressure switch. It would then stop leaking as soon as I stopped pouring in oil? I checked the oil pressure switch and it doesn't appear to be leaking from there but from the sump somehow. So I thought ok, I'll come back to that as it doesn't leak while standing and only when I pour oil in. I then started filling up the coolant system after making a gasket for the inlet elbow and sealing it up nice with some holymer blue. Once I got about 5 liters of water in, oil starts pouring out of the front of sump?? As I added more water, more oil came out till the point where there was oil and water coming out Any ideas how on earth water is getting from the coolant system down into the sump?? When I had the engine out of the donor, I put a new head gasket on and there's no signs of leaks on there I'm trying to now get the sump off so I can pour more water in to see where its leaking down from but the sump is now stuck and wont come off. It seems stuck towards the back but I don't remember there being any bolts right at the back of the sump by the flywheel that aren't accessable without the gearbox being off??
Please help |
#2
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Why did you put on a new HG? That would be the most likly culprit for the mixing, certainly if it's POURING.
TT
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You only get a woosh with a dump valve Build Thread Man Cave Mantiques Cecil Street Auto Repairs Garage Carlisle Build Cost £4181.65 - Last - Wheel Cylinders |
#3
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It was seeping to one side when I bought it. Not tons but enough that I had to topup with water before I drove it home and by then it'd lost a bit. So how do I fix it?
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#4
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Well drain the sump first, I think there are bolts on the back so get it dropped off and try and determine the location of the ingress.
I take it you have not drilled any holes for the carb conversion? TT
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You only get a woosh with a dump valve Build Thread Man Cave Mantiques Cecil Street Auto Repairs Garage Carlisle Build Cost £4181.65 - Last - Wheel Cylinders |
#5
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So I guess I'll need to get the engine & gearbox back out to get at the bolts between the sump and gearbox
I've only drilled one hole into the inlet manifold I made which I tapped for the temp gauge sender. This doesn't appear to be leaking. I also took the core plug out at the back of the head at the right side as you look at the engine from the front which is where I mounted the FWD thermostat. Again this doesn't appear to be leaking either. |
#6
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I know this sounds obvious and could come across as being somewhat cheeky but did you recheck the cylinder head bolts after you did the gasket
Am not taking the preverbial just a thought and I did it once so just checking |
#7
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Ya i tighted them up with a torque wrench using the sequence listed in haynes manual. I sort of did them all up till they started to bite a bit then did them up in sequence about 1/8-1/4 turn at a time.
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#8
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Was the head and block clean of old gasket? Was it the correct gasket for the 1.6 Sierra CFI engine.
TT
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You only get a woosh with a dump valve Build Thread Man Cave Mantiques Cecil Street Auto Repairs Garage Carlisle Build Cost £4181.65 - Last - Wheel Cylinders |
#9
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Ya I worked it all off slowly and the motorfactor said it would be the right gasket (1.8 cfi) and it fit on nice and snug with all the holes in the right place.
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#10
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Well I got the engine out and the gearbox & clutch back off and the engine back up on the stand with the sump off. There was tons of water in the sump along with oil that had taken on a congealed fatty white look to it. I think I've sussed where the problem is too. I suspect that the internal seal on my bike carb manifold isn't good enough and water is coming thru the head behind cylinder 4 then seeping across the manifold and down into the cylinders to then go down thru the pistons and into the sump Can anyone suggest a better way to make sure the internal inlet seal is spot on before I re-assemble the engine? I'd hate to have to put it all back together and in the car to find out the problem isn't fixed also is there a better way to get the water out of the block/pistons other than using tons of wd40 to repel all the water out?
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