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  #81  
Old 10th July 2010, 10:58 AM
Eternal Eternal is offline
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ahhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh i understand now. Thanks
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  #82  
Old 10th July 2010, 04:39 PM
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Tell you guys what doing the tunnel MT 10/12 is hard cut grind cut grind cut..............
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  #83  
Old 10th July 2010, 06:10 PM
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Only a short day today. Got all the tunnel done now so i guess i can fully weld it. had 2 pings today so i think a couple of tacks have gone somewhere..... doh!
I'm so worried about welding this thing i really dont want it to twist or anything. But i def want to weld it up first as i would like to have it facing the other direction for when i build the rear end should give me loads more space.

Any hints or tips in regards to full welding the beast? should probably clamp as much down to the bench as i can. Also going to weld it fully before the diagonals to be able to get better welds


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Last edited by Eternal : 10th July 2010 at 06:13 PM.
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  #84  
Old 10th July 2010, 07:17 PM
mr henderson mr henderson is offline
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If your work bench is actually flat, and the chassis sits flat on it without being clamped to it, I see no reason why you should not remove the corner blocks and swing it round to do the rear end.
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  #85  
Old 10th July 2010, 07:31 PM
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I think the rear centre of the table has sunk a bit (1mm many a little more) I sat in the chassis when I was messing with the gearbox.
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  #86  
Old 10th July 2010, 08:31 PM
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HandyAndy HandyAndy is offline
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Looking really nice

Nice work Eternal,

as for welding.........what I did on my own chassis was to do as Mr H has said, removed some of the small plastic blocks so that you can slide your chassis forward enough to allow you to do the rear diff cage area, as I have used GRP rear tub I didn,t have to build as per book for an Ali tub,

so what I suggest is slide your chassis forward, complete the rear end by tacking it into place, then check & double check all dimensions of the chassis are correct before you start any full welds, alternate your full welds from front to back, from one side to the other side etc, allowing the welds to cool fully, check dimensions as you go, & you,ll soon have it fully welded........well thats how I did mine & it turned out straight & true

keep up the good work,

ps, have you found where CP24,s go yet?

cheers
andy
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  #87  
Old 10th July 2010, 08:37 PM
mr henderson mr henderson is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Eternal View Post
I think the rear centre of the table has sunk a bit (1mm many a little more) I sat in the chassis when I was messing with the gearbox.

Do you know someone with a laser level, most builders and kitchen fitters have them. You need the type which projects a horizontal line. You can use that to get the four corners level, then level the whole board up. It may not be that much of an issue, though.
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  #88  
Old 10th July 2010, 08:44 PM
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The sides are level but the back centre has dropped a tad was in the centre lifting a gearbox around and think I slightly bent the metal framework under the bench. I really hope I did not mess up the back end some how lol.
Thanks for the tips will help a load.
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  #89  
Old 11th July 2010, 06:21 PM
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crap my little pub bottle of gas just ran out =( u guys think it would be ok to hook up my pure argon to the mig welder instead?
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  #90  
Old 12th July 2010, 06:58 PM
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Right its allmost fully welded missed a few welds in the inside and the underside. Started on the rear suspension stuff now so thats great! no twisting so far so ace news. Had to take it out the workshop to sand down the table just to make sure when i moved the chassis it would stay flat. When all the rear stuff, CP plates and other bits are done i will flip it over and do the underside/hard to get to bits.

While it was out the workshop i decided to do a little messing around! I have some real real rare 3pc enkei split rims. Problem is they are 5 stud and 117.5 and most deff the wrong offset. Its a shame as i would love to use them. Maby after the iva i can mess around see if i can do some hub work.




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