#1
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1 piece floor vs 2 piece floor
I posted over on Locostbuilders just to see what kind of advice I would get as to the process to follow when riveting/bonding an alu floor panel onto my chassis. (whether to rivet in a certain pattern/etc)...
Interestingly I got feedback from some respondents to say - don't use a 1 piece floor panel: "Having the tunnel panelled just means it fills with cr@p from the road and there's reduced route for engine heat to exit. Keep it simple and lighter, and just panel in each person's half. " "I wouldnt worry about the tunnel either i had a Tiger with propshaft and i wouldnt have wanted the floor in the way for if i needed to check/work on it." "My advice to this chappie (as another has said) is the *keep a separate tunnel floor section*. This can then be removed for prop inspections, etc., as well as getting the rubbish out. " What do actual Haynes builders have to say about this though?
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http://meandthekitcar.wordpress.com/ Last edited by jps : 18th August 2014 at 01:19 PM. |
#2
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Quote:
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Click to see my build photos on Flikr http://www.flickr.com/photos/67112582@N03/ Saturn MX5 Based Chassis, Limited Slip Diff & 2.4 Quick Rack. Build cost.... seems to be spending more on tools than car bits at the moment! (they will be handy in the future though). Car iva'd and passed 15/08/2014. Finished weight 572kg. |
#3
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I went with two separate pieces. Some material/weight economy, more straightforward to cut out, easier access to the prop and diff, less crud gathering in the car. The only downside is slightly lower chassis rigidity.
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Albert Haynes Roadster FAQ | Haynes Builder Locations Gallery, build thread in Lithuanian / via Google Translate. |
#4
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I've gone for one big panel, but am planning to panel the bottom of the engine bay and diff cage also.
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If dysfunction is a function, then I must be some kind of genius. |
#5
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My view on the subject is that surely a 1 piece floor adds more strength to the structure, weight wise, it's a small cut out really, we are talking a few kilos extra on a 100bhp + car, it's nothing. As long as you can access the diff to drop the bolts on the driveshaft, and slide the prop out, no problem !
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#6
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Unless you are building a race car where 10ths of a sec count two piece will save you hassle,make a splitter panel to cover the rear diff/boot area.
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Cost : Little as possible. Thanks : To those who by their generosity my build has progressed. Its a handmade sports car not a flaming kit car !!! If at first you dont succeed,avoid skydiving... No parachute require to freefall,only if you want to do it twice. |
#7
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Good to hear the thoughts. I'm going to stick to my guns for now - and go with 1 piece floor - and a removable tunnel top (fitted with rivnuts).
However - I am aware I may come to regret this decision - so will work on the basis that I can easily drill a couple of holes and use the jigsaw to take out the 'centre' section of the 1 piece panel if I decide to do so in the future...
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http://meandthekitcar.wordpress.com/ |
#8
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At the end of the day it's your build, build it the way you want it
Arfon |
#9
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Used steel sheet too, 120 kg at last medical
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Cost : Little as possible. Thanks : To those who by their generosity my build has progressed. Its a handmade sports car not a flaming kit car !!! If at first you dont succeed,avoid skydiving... No parachute require to freefall,only if you want to do it twice. |
#10
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Good point - but don't forget - mine is the womble car - my ali was free!!!!! http://meandthekitcar.files.wordpres...11446308_n.jpg
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http://meandthekitcar.wordpress.com/ |
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