Haynes Forums  

Go Back   Haynes Forums > Haynes Roadster Forums > Running gear
FAQ Members List Calendar Search Today's Posts Mark Forums Read

Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
  #1  
Old 12th September 2010, 11:55 AM
HandyAndy's Avatar
HandyAndy HandyAndy is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: cleveland
Posts: 3,917
Default Brake pressure/ brake lights

I,m not sure which section to put this query into as it is related to brakes & Lights......

I have fully bled my brakes & to be honest very pleased & relieved that it was a "Pain free" task, got very good firm pedal pressure, no leaks etc.

BUT

I,ve rigged up some rear lights ( changing them as not happy with the way they look),
My question is, when I press the brake pedal the rear brake lights don,t come on as quickly as I thought they would or should, basically my brakes are working before the lights come on, If i just lightly apply my brakes the lights don,t appear to react unless I use more pressure on the pedal...as if I,m braking hard.

Any suggestions please?

cheers
andy
Reply With Quote
  #2  
Old 12th September 2010, 12:36 PM
twinturbo's Avatar
twinturbo twinturbo is offline
Super Moderator
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Carlisle
Posts: 4,393
Default

Unscrew the sender whilst applying pressure to the pedal slightly so that fluid is expunged out the union ( a bit like leaving it off all together and letting lots of fluid pi55 all over the floor.)

then fit the sender whilst fluid is still being expunged, increase pedal preasure as you do so.


See if that helps.

TT
__________________
You only get a woosh with a dump valve

Build Thread


Man Cave Mantiques



Cecil Street Auto Repairs Garage Carlisle




Build Cost £4181.65 - Last - Wheel Cylinders
Reply With Quote
  #3  
Old 12th September 2010, 12:37 PM
les g les g is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: S.E.Cornwall
Posts: 760
Default

easy one Andy
you can check your switch with a meter to see when or what pressure the lights are illuminating
if you want the lights to be instantaneous you will need to find a way of fitting a mechanical pedal switch
some of our plant is fitted with these hydraulic b/l switches and you have to give the the pedal a hefty shove to get the lights on
the ones with mechanical switches light faster
it takes quite a bit of hydrulic pressure to overcome the spring inside the switch
also it can help if you mount the switch upside down or on its side so no air is trapped in the switch
it can be the air compressing and not lifting the switch/spring thing
cheers les g

Last edited by les g : 12th September 2010 at 12:39 PM.
Reply With Quote
  #4  
Old 12th September 2010, 12:43 PM
HandyAndy's Avatar
HandyAndy HandyAndy is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: cleveland
Posts: 3,917
Default

Cheers TT, I,ll try that this afternoon ,

Les,
Yes, like you say it appears a hefty shove is required to make the pressure switch illuminate the brake lights
I would personally prefer that the lights more or less come on the moment I touch the pedal, I,ll have a go at what TT suggests & if that fails I,ll look at installing a mechanical switch on the brake pedal.......hmmm MORE electrical work

cheers guys.

Andy
Reply With Quote
  #5  
Old 12th September 2010, 02:43 PM
mr henderson mr henderson is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Aylesbury
Posts: 364
Default

I much prefer a mechanical brake switch, simple, reliable, easy to adjust, you can even set them up so that you can touch the pedal and make your brake lights come on without doing any actual braking which can be handy if you've got some idiot following too close, etc.
Reply With Quote
  #6  
Old 12th September 2010, 07:30 PM
flyerncle flyerncle is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: gateshead,near cobbly bit of A1 North
Posts: 3,188
Default

How far away from the cylinder is the switch,most electric switches have a fair amount of travel and take into account the servo adding to pedal travel and its no hassle wiring one up just swap wires one to the other.

Another thought,what circuit have you put it in as this will affect the pressure output, usual ratio of 60/40 front to rear in most cars,rear one should in theory give lower pressure.
__________________
Cost : Little as possible.
Thanks : To those who by their generosity my build has progressed.
Its a handmade sports car not a flaming kit car !!!


If at first you dont succeed,avoid skydiving...

No parachute require to freefall,only if you want to do it twice.

Last edited by flyerncle : 12th September 2010 at 07:33 PM.
Reply With Quote
  #7  
Old 12th September 2010, 07:59 PM
HandyAndy's Avatar
HandyAndy HandyAndy is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: cleveland
Posts: 3,917
Default

Cheers Mr H, yes , I too would prefer the quicker reaction time of a mechanical switch, also like your suggestion of the oppurtunity to activate the brake lights without actually engaging the brakes

Flyerncle.....

My brake pressure switch is approx 4 inches from the M/C body, & its in the front pipe system as I thought along the lines that greater pressure would go to the front brakes.

I suppose I,ve been used to motorcycle brakes that has a tiny mechanical switch attached to the brake lever.

cheers
andy
Reply With Quote
  #8  
Old 12th September 2010, 11:18 PM
David_17's Avatar
David_17 David_17 is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Teesside
Posts: 544
Default

If you do want to try TT's method first, you're welcome to borrow my leg sometime to come and hold your pedal down whilst you do it. Won't be easy doing both at the same time by yourself

Let me know

Dave
__________________
~

My Build Diary - http://davesroadster.blogspot.com/

*updated 7/6/11*

Best bit so far: Getting it running
Worst bit so far: Cutting steel for wishbones and engine mounts.
Most annoying bit so far: Generator packing up half way through welding.
Reply With Quote
  #9  
Old 12th September 2010, 11:21 PM
HandyAndy's Avatar
HandyAndy HandyAndy is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: cleveland
Posts: 3,917
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by David_17 View Post
If you do want to try TT's method first, you're welcome to borrow my leg sometime to come and hold your pedal down whilst you do it. Won't be easy doing both at the same time by yourself

Let me know

Dave
Cheers Dave, that would be a big help

I had visions of using a bottle jack on the pedal

Let me know when you are free.

cheers
andy
Reply With Quote
  #10  
Old 12th September 2010, 11:37 PM
David_17's Avatar
David_17 David_17 is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Teesside
Posts: 544
Default

I've got 3 more days work this week, then i'm off for 2 weeks (as far as i know at the moment). Whenever you're ready, let me know.
__________________
~

My Build Diary - http://davesroadster.blogspot.com/

*updated 7/6/11*

Best bit so far: Getting it running
Worst bit so far: Cutting steel for wishbones and engine mounts.
Most annoying bit so far: Generator packing up half way through welding.
Reply With Quote
Reply


Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

vB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Forum Jump


All times are GMT +1. The time now is 10:43 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.6.4
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.