#1
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Rivnuts?
This may sound daff! is it steel ones for steel and ali for ali?
cheers |
#2
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Agreed. I've used ally ones and already I had 2-3 bolts stuck with the rivnut turning in its place.
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Albert Haynes Roadster FAQ | Haynes Builder Locations Gallery, build thread in Lithuanian / via Google Translate. |
#3
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ok cheers for that
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#4
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There a compound you can put in to stop the reaction between metals, we use to use it putting steel helicoils in to ali tank hulls. Can't remember what its called though!
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Build Cost so far £xxx (Given up adding it up) - She Starts!! Build Thread Here: http://www.haynes.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?t=5501 |
#5
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Squirt of WD40 into box section would not hurt either .
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Cost : Little as possible. Thanks : To those who by their generosity my build has progressed. Its a handmade sports car not a flaming kit car !!! If at first you dont succeed,avoid skydiving... No parachute require to freefall,only if you want to do it twice. |
#6
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do people use ali because they are easier to form then?
tony |
#7
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Probably because they're cheaper. It is how to build a car on a budget
The ali ones are sh!t though. They're quite soft and it's very easy to damage the threads in them. I'd only use stainless if I was starting again, or even better use weld-in inserts instead. |
#8
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Steel rivnuts over m6 are almost impossible to form with a hydraulic tool.
To limit galvanic corrosion you can use something like duralac, but its designed to go between plates rather than on a threaded insert, not sure how well it would withstand rotation whilst its drying. |
#9
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I used steel zinc plated rivnuts to fit the bodywork. I put a bit of Sikaflex around all of them before crimping. So they also are a bit bounded too and not only crimped (which will make them even more difficult to get loose) and I believe it makes a protection layer/sealing. The excess is easy to clean with alcohol afterwards. It cheap too.
2014-07-08_10-28-13 by Voucht71, on Flickr
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#10
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Quote:
http://www.silmid.com/products/masti...-27-mil-p.aspx |
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