#1
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Steering column extension
Afternoon all,
I've searched on here and on locostbuilders/the net generally but can't find anything definitive. What is the best solution for the column extension? I know the book says to chop the donor column and extend with tube, but I've read that others have used a couple of UJs and splined shaft (chopped and sleeved to suit) from rally design to make a new one. If using the donor column is good enough, where do I cut? I've marked a pic up with red and green... Also what size ID and thickness tube? Cheers Eddy |
#2
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Hi Eddy,
As I had the same question one year or so ago, I will try to reply. If you have more than 2 UJ's, you will need a bearing to hold one part of your column. Keep in mind that the lower flexible part of the Sierra steering column (the one with the rubber piece) which connects onto the rack is considered as a UJ. I also wanted to use 2 splines shafts, connected with a UJ, and a bearing, but I gave up on that considering the troubles : the total cost, the installation of the bearing, and so on. If you want, Rally Design sells 380mm long splined shafts, which are a bit long to my mind (my extension was 610mm only), but of course, it depends of the angle you'll have between the 2 half-shafts. They also have UJ's. If you want to do that, for your inspiration, you can see a very neat installation of 2 shafts + central UJ + bearing on JanneE's build thread for example. http://www.haynes.co.uk/forums/showt...hlight=Janne+E On my side, I finally decided to do as explained in the book. The diameter of the lower part of the Sierra steering column you'll cut is 9/16'' = almost 15mm. So the tube you'll need for your extension will need to have a ID of 15mm. My supplier had only 5mm wall, so that is what I used (OD is quite big: 25mm, it is pretty close to U1, about 5mm, but it fits), but I'm pretty sure other builders used 3 or 4mm wall only. Also, it is better to use a seamless tube. Here is how it looks: 2013-06-02_17-03-14 par Voucht71, sur Flickr 2013-06-02_17-03-30 par Voucht71, sur Flickr 2013-06-02_17-03-21 par Voucht71, sur Flickr Hope this will help
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Sylvain Pictures of my completed Roadster https://www.flickr.com/photos/994983...7646799525542/ Build blog: http://vouchtroadster.blogspot.se/ https://cafrazx550.blogspot.com/ |
#3
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Thats a perfect answer, thanks so much for taking the time. Should help people in the future as well as me
I think I was getting confused, thinking I only cut one part to extend, whereas - if I understand correctly - I cut both parts. I'll start the hunt for some appropriate tube Thanks again Eddy |
#4
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In my view the only reason to go with more than a pair of UJs is if something is getting in the way of the straight shaft that voucht and I have. This is often the engine leg, intake manifold, alternator, etc.
Looks like your shaft is a bit different than the one that Sylvain and I have. Any of the places you marked will do, I guess. Perhaps green is better as the shaft passes pretty close to the tube the suspension bracket is welded on (read: 3-4 mm clearance with ø25 tube). Also, it's possible that you'll have radiator hoses passing around the rack, so it's better to keep the flappy part away from these tight spots.
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Albert Haynes Roadster FAQ | Haynes Builder Locations Gallery, build thread in Lithuanian / via Google Translate. |
#5
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I think mine is a bit different - The parts where I'd be cutting, from memory, would be thicker than 15mm diameter, meaning the sleeving tube would need to be larger. Given that its already close to the upright, this might be a problem.
Should I consider buying something like the column in this link: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/FORD-SIERR...item46121076b4 |
#6
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I recall reading somewhere recently that MK make or will make a one piece shaft to fit for I think 40 GBP. Maybe worth considering and looking into.
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#7
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Just a little update on this - I emailed MK as suggested above (the extension is listed on their website for £40 as Ozzy said) and had no reply and they didn't pick up the phone when I tried to call, so won't be using them.
I went on to eBay and managed to find a new old stock lower column that looks more 'extension friendly' than mine: Fingers crossed this will work with the thick walled tube I have. Cheers again for the help guys |
#8
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Just been reading the reply's on here, Albert the only time that the inlet manifold on any ford installation which is what most people start with on this forum is if your steering column, like yours, is on the wrong side of the car.
When your steering is on the correct side of the car you need to dodge the exhaust. Arfon |
#9
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Quote:
Crossflow, CVH and Zetec E engines all have the inlet on the UK drivers side too so there is a mixed bag. Cheers Stot
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1.6 Mazda B6 : Garrett TBO339 : 420cc WRX Injectors : FMIC : Microsquirt V3 : LC-2 Wideband : Toyota COP : 1.8 ATB LSD Build Started Jan 2013 : OTR Aug 2014 : Still OTR June 2024 |
#10
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Just the stage I'm getting to, I'll probably have to reread this thread a couple more times before I'm ready to anything though
Also, my steering column is different again, got an extra join in it and different ends, annoyingly. p.s. DOHC has inlet on uk (correct) drivers side, exhaust on the other at just the right point for exiting bodywork |
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