#1
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sierra master cylinder
Hello,
I have been piping up my brake lines, all going well but have found that one of the lines dips steeply from the master cylinder out of the bottom of the chasis before lifting again. I'm not very happy about this setup and would like to find an alternative such as a 90 degree or banjo fitting to turn the line faster, can't seem to find any m10 x 1 fittings on the internet and was just wondering what anyone else had done, hope this makes sense. Many thanks Richard
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Richard Just keep going we will get there in the end. |
#2
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Hi,
Can you make a picture of your problem, I am not sure I fully understand. Or tell us if you are using copper pipes or stainless steel braided Teflon hoses. I might be able to help you. Banjos are a good solution for tight angles but are very difficult to bleed, so if you can avoid and use a tubular elbow fitting instead, it is better. Thanks.
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Sylvain Pictures of my completed Roadster https://www.flickr.com/photos/994983...7646799525542/ Build blog: http://vouchtroadster.blogspot.se/ https://cafrazx550.blogspot.com/ |
#3
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One of the pipes exiting the master cylinder has to go downwars and you can't get a tight radius with standard equipment and fittings.
TT
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You only get a woosh with a dump valve Build Thread Man Cave Mantiques Cecil Street Auto Repairs Garage Carlisle Build Cost £4181.65 - Last - Wheel Cylinders |
#4
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Quote:
http://www.cbsonline.co.uk/product/B...M10_x_1_PSBF10 http://www.cbsonline.co.uk/product/B...ose_End_PSBF12
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#5
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Quote:
I don't know about your IVA in the UK, but what we call "reusable fittings" as the ones on the links (fitting-olive-nut system) are not acceptable on the brake system of a road car over here I think. Excellent for racing cars though I can make (and I did for my own build) a line with a 110° male fitting. I always prefer tubular fittings solution to banjos, when I can fit them. - less parts - cheaper - sealed on convex/concave seats, and not with copper washers - easier to bleed 110°fitting_2.jpg 110°fitting_1.JPG
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Sylvain Pictures of my completed Roadster https://www.flickr.com/photos/994983...7646799525542/ Build blog: http://vouchtroadster.blogspot.se/ https://cafrazx550.blogspot.com/ |
#6
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Quote:
edit: I had a quick look on Locost Builders - apparently reuseable fittings were SVA OK, so assume they pass IVA - certainly people over here seem to be making their own flexi-brake lines using olives etc. Although a motorcycle example - some good pics of someone constructing one here: http://www.oldbritts.com/brake_line.html
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http://meandthekitcar.wordpress.com/ Last edited by jps : 19th April 2013 at 03:49 PM. Reason: Added 'in Sweden' and ledit:... |
#7
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Quote:
The only problem is that they need to be "factory made" as you need a special (and expensive) machine to crimp the collars. So they need to be ordered at the right length from the beginning. The big advantage of reusable (olive) fittings, is that you can assemble the brake lines directly on the car. We also do a lot of reusable fitting lines (we have a full range of reusable fittings too), but mostly for racing cars and motorbike. My entire brake line circuit is made of flexible lines. The flexi lines from callipers to chassis bulkhead have crimped fittings too... if it was your question IMG_0024.JPG IMG_0029.JPG Quote:
I'm not sure about Sweden (I haven't checked because I will not install brake lines with reusable fittings on my Roadster) but in France, brake lines with olive fittings (reusable) might fail "contrôle technique" (equivalent of your MOT visit), because it is not sure they have been professionally made, or fittings could have been undone and badly reassembled without being able for the inspector to check. So crimped fitting brake lines are more adapted to road vehicles, and reusable fittings to racing vehicles. But again, I hope I correctly understood your question
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Sylvain Pictures of my completed Roadster https://www.flickr.com/photos/994983...7646799525542/ Build blog: http://vouchtroadster.blogspot.se/ https://cafrazx550.blogspot.com/ |
#8
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A very good explanation! (And sorry if I got your location wrong). Yes, you understood my question exactly - I didn't realise the 'crimped' end solution could be made with flexi-pipes - but from what you say it's not really a 'home made' option because of the expense of construction. Everyday is a school day!
I'd guess that an MOT inspection wouldn't involve looking closely at the makeup of the brake lines - i'm no expert but have got the impression the MOT is about testing functionality of the car, and looking for obvious faults or weaknesses (like rust in structural areas/etc). I'm not sure it is as indepth as looking at part specification for components...
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#9
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No, you didn't get my location wrong at all: I live in Sweden. But I'm French, and I know the French regulations better than Swedish ones.
The company I'm working for, from Sweden (by Internet), is in France and is making all kinds of hydraulic systems (brake, fuel, oil, and air cooloing ) for racing cars and bikes. I know, it is complicated , so you are all excused!
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Sylvain Pictures of my completed Roadster https://www.flickr.com/photos/994983...7646799525542/ Build blog: http://vouchtroadster.blogspot.se/ https://cafrazx550.blogspot.com/ |
#10
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realy you want to keep as much down hill run on your brake lines as possible for two reasons
1. if you get a leak above the res fluid level in your pipe/line it will let air in with the brake off via gravity, fluid level goes up, no fluid leaks out,no warning lamp and no brake! if it was down hill all the way then fluid leaks out your fluid level drops, light comes on and you can see where its leaking from. 2. its a dam site easyer to bleed i didnt like the orignal m/c placment so mine is above the pedals. |
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