busa charging

[tex]

ok a question for the educated amongst us - that puts me out cos i'm asking...

ok - megabusa - battery charging voltages

engine running tickover across the battery im getting 13.7 / 8v
turn on lights - bout 9-10v + if i rev the engine a bit and hold it - 12.07v
turn on twin rear fogs - bout 9-10v + if i rev the engine a bit and hold it - 12.07v ish

is that normal??

im guessing that 13.7v is telling me its charging ok but should i see the same voltage with lights on?

reason im asking i left the battery charger off the car last winter for 3 months while the car stood idle - doh - since then its had a couple of go flat moments and its died - it could be the battery is damaged and bringing it down a bit or is it more likely that its simply not charging correctly?

if its not charging hows it fixable? obviously its a bike engine so it hasnt the normal alternator

[flyerncle]

No sparky but car voltage charging always above 13 volts,possibly voltage regulator.

Bikes charge from stator on ignition I believe and have external regulators,don't take this as gospel.

[tex]

Originally Posted by flyerncle

No sparky but car voltage charging always above 13 volts,possibly voltage regulator.

Bikes charge from stator on ignition I believe and have external regulators,don't take this as gospel.

battery is goosed - regulator is fine on it - i left the car stand last winter for 3 months and didnt put the charger on it - i think it got a damaged cell then - so it seems its pulling down the reading im getting

thanks

[Davey]

The alternator on a bike is likely to be less powerful than a car one as it has less work to do. On a car there are at least twice as many lights to power and the battery has a larger capacity so will often require more current to charge it. On a bike you have one front position lamp (5W) one dipped beam headlight (55W?) one main beam headlight (55W?) one rear position lamp (5W) and one rear brake lamp (21W?) plus four indicators at 21W each but only lit for half the time they're in use and then mostly only in pairs. Even if it has electronic engine management the current required is likely to be lower than that of a car which has multiple ECUs.

If your battery is tired then it will also drag the voltage down.

D.

[robo]

Davey is right, the charging system wont keep up with the demand. I googled the capacity of the stator and it wont keep up with the car. You might be able to copy this.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/HAYABUSA-ALT...-/180551469325

Bob

[loony]

Originally Posted by Davey

On a bike you have one front position lamp (5W) one dipped beam headlight (55W?) one main beam headlight (55W?) one rear position lamp (5W) and one rear brake lamp (21W?) plus four indicators at 21W each but only lit for half the time they're in use and then mostly only in pairs. Even if it has electronic engine management the current required is likely to be lower than that of a car which has multiple ECUs.

It depends on bike - my "donor" ZX9R had twin headlight (2x55/60W), and twin-rear lamp (2x 5/21W)... but I plan to use as many LEDs as possible (rear clusters, DRL, indicators), just for peace of mind and to save power for electric reverse

[flyerncle]

Am I right in thinking if you dont put 12v in you will never get a charging system to work,makes sense if the battery is goosed.

[Davey]

If the charging is done by alternator then it will need an "exciter" current to start the alternator. If the battery has enough life to start the engine then it will excite the alternator.

D.

[tex]

battery is new - still no good - hmmm
ok - check charge to battery - shud be - 13.5 - 15.0 - getting

tickover - 13.2
lights on - 12
rear fog - 9

thats not right

so am i getting a charge out at all from the stator

ok - disconnected stator plug from the regulator - done these tests
check each yellow [3 off] wire to earth - should be no continuity - ok
check resistence of each yellow wire out of stator - spec - 0.2 - 0.4 ohms - reading i got - 0.5 ohms on each
checked each wire for continuity from regulator to stator - all 3 ok with them disconnected
checked stator for AC output - spec 65v + - output 2 ok one i couldnt get reading on more than about 10v - test taken from cold - 5k rpm

if iv checked the wires for continuity out from the stator and its fine - it is right that to get the readings i just pop the probes from each of the 3 yellows in turn giving 3 readings? if ones not reading do that mean for defo that the stator is goosed?

****** car.. doin my head in - if it is goosed iv gotta take engine out to get at it.. cover is right up on the footwell

[alga]

Did you have the dash battery warning light wired up? With my Hitachi car alternator it was required for the voltage regulator to provide any voltage at all.