#1
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what order to fit grp body bits?
well i got all my bits now and have trimmed a few bits and bobs to alow panels to be placed on the chassis.
to get best fit what is the best order to go about it? like does the sides go under the scuttle or do i trim out the area where the scuttle fits to top rail? same where the nose goes etc. then there is the side to tub interface? im was thinking of order 1. rear tub 2. sides 3. nose 4. scuttle 5. bonnet last thing i want is a mistake |
#2
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I,d suggest the following.....
fit nose position bonnet on top of nose which determines the precise position of the scuttle. remove nose, bonnet, scuttle... fit side panels...D9 & D10 are useful to determine where the side panels meet the rear tub. ( would suggest that all pedal box fitment is complete, otherwise you,ll end up with your head in the footwell with legs sticking up in the air , been there ). then fit rear tub then fit rear wings to rear tub ( my tub is rivnutted to the chassis & wings bolted to the tub so that if needed I can remove it all in one go ) then refit the nose, bonnet & scuttle. Depending where you have welded SW1 to the chassis you may need to cut a little notch out of the scuttle to allow it to sit on top of the side panel/chassis top rail. edit..... no need to remove any of the side panel top edge where the scuttle is, scuttle is fine to sit on top of it, you "might" need to remove some of the top edge of the side panels to allow a good fit of the nose so that the nose sits directly on top of the chassis rails. hth. cheers andy
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Flat Pack Chassis Kits for sale, contact me at andyroadster@yahoo.co.uk Last edited by HandyAndy : 1st April 2012 at 06:10 PM. Reason: extra info |
#3
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I fitted my side panels before the nose as the nose sits on top of the side panels.
Just my thoughts... TT
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#4
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no problem there as i have a top mounted, drop down pedalbox
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#5
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Good thinking
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Flat Pack Chassis Kits for sale, contact me at andyroadster@yahoo.co.uk |
#6
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A good tip when ataching the rear tub and sides at their intersecion is to use 3 rivnuts slap bang in the centre of the rail, two lower ones with spreader washers. The best way of doing the top one is to do it up through the rear wing flange. That way you have a nice join line, the wing clamps the two panels flush and all of the fixings are hidden by the wing
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#7
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Quote:
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#8
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i have all my main body clamped up to settle into shape for an age now.
i have all the bolt holes sorted for my nose and scuttle. what i need to do now is do my final fix on my sides. what is my best option for fixing it? my plan was to use pu to seal the area between the grp and tubes in my cockpit areas or should i just do it all? i cant see i will need to remove them i have bolts that clamp the sides where the scuttle and nose are but do i need more fixings along the top (flush) and i was planing just to rivit every 12" on the under side or is this over kill? i have seen eveything from pu and minimal riviting to one evey 3" then i will need to fix my rear panel so its removable so i was going for rivnuts and bolts |
#9
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"P" trim for the rear wing to tub fit will finish it off niceley.
I personally will split the panel above the pedal box,as Handy says anything you attempt after its all put together is virtually impossible in that area.
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Cost : Little as possible. Thanks : To those who by their generosity my build has progressed. Its a handmade sports car not a flaming kit car !!! If at first you dont succeed,avoid skydiving... No parachute require to freefall,only if you want to do it twice. |
#10
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its not a problem im going to have as i have a pedal box at the top with pedals that hang down.
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