#1
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what next?
Hi all,
Can i hear your thoughts on the next steps to take for my build as at the moment it seems like i need to spend a lot of money buying lots of things before i can move on. At the moment i have a rolling chassis with engine and gearbox in; definite next steps are to fix the fuel tank in and run the fuel lines, but what next? cheers Ben
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Build photos: http://s1056.photobucket.com/albums/t362/benbrooks1/ |
#2
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Run the wires from front to back. It's very easy to do before the tunnel is all panelled in but not so easy afterwards.
You will need: brake lights, side lights, left indicator, right indicator, reverse, rear fog, number plate light (same wire as side lights) fuel pump (assuming boot mount pump) and fuel gauge sender, which may be 1 or 2 wires depending on the unit you have, you will also need to weld a bolt on somewhere to act as an earthing point. I had 2 earth points on my car - 1 each side. I also put 2 extra wires in, which I left coiled up, just in case I needed them in the future. I cut all wires a bit over length and then just terminated them as the build progressed. Don't forget to include 2 wires for the reverse light switch (usually on the gear box) and the handbrake warning light - these both terminate half way down the tunnel. Dave. |
#3
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thanks for that, but do i not need all the bodywork to fit the lights etc or should i just run the wires and as you said make them a bit longer than needed?
Ben
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Build photos: http://s1056.photobucket.com/albums/t362/benbrooks1/ |
#4
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You don't need the body work just a very rough idea of where everything is going. I left all my wires about 3 ft longer than I needed then just cut them to length once I had everything mounted / attached. The way I made the loom was to use the building board - I put a nail in the board anywhere that the loom had to make a turn and just wrote the names of each light etc on to the board. Once it was all laid out neatly you can wrap it in looming tape and the jobs a good un.
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#5
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you could use 7 core and trailer socket as wiring,easier to remove bodywork if needed.
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Cost : Little as possible. Thanks : To those who by their generosity my build has progressed. Its a handmade sports car not a flaming kit car !!! If at first you dont succeed,avoid skydiving... No parachute require to freefall,only if you want to do it twice. |
#6
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thanks for the help guys.
for the wiring, what do you think of this? looks really good to me but never seen anyone use it: http://www.cbsonline.co.uk/product/C...g_Module_WRMOD
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Build photos: http://s1056.photobucket.com/albums/t362/benbrooks1/ |
#7
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Looks good but do you need it,have you still got donor wiring harness.
£100 is price of a shocker.
__________________
Cost : Little as possible. Thanks : To those who by their generosity my build has progressed. Its a handmade sports car not a flaming kit car !!! If at first you dont succeed,avoid skydiving... No parachute require to freefall,only if you want to do it twice. |
#8
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I was going to use one of these. But funds are tight and I got a free sierra loom a couple of weeks back so plans are changing.
http://www.polevolt.co.uk/acatalog/M...ay_System.html TT
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You only get a woosh with a dump valve Build Thread Man Cave Mantiques Cecil Street Auto Repairs Garage Carlisle Build Cost £4181.65 - Last - Wheel Cylinders |
#9
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flyerncle, i never had a donor car, i've just been picking up bits as and when i need them. If it's going to make life a lot easier/mean theres a better chance of it not faulting then i may invest. would not buying it be considerably cheaper/worth the extra hassle ?
Ben
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Build photos: http://s1056.photobucket.com/albums/t362/benbrooks1/ |
#10
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I got a loom from Premier looms. £140 or so I think.Its dear but you get instructions how to do everything, which was worth a lot to a technoprat like me.
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