Suspension Setup
 

Hi guys,
I've been setting up my suspension for the past 2 nights and have hit a couple of problems.

I bought my rear camber adjusters from 3ge and I've found that they are no good. With them fully wound in (and a half nut for iva) they are giving me 3deg positive camber when I want 1deg negative.
I've thought about replacing the adjuster with a rose joint (like ashg has done) however I can only find one place and they only have 1 in stock.
I'm guessing I would also need a bush to reduce it from 20mm to 12mm. Can you get these off the shelf as I don't have a lathe.

The other problem I have is ride height. I loaded the car up with beer and have tried setting the rear height to 150mm but with lots of tension on the spring I got it too 140mm.

On the front, with no preload I could only get the height down to about 110mm (is this ok as its been mentioned 100mm).

Would I be better off taking up the slack on the front and not worrying about the slight difference in height?

Do you have the book adjusters or the tube and sleeve quick adjusters? If you have the book spec wishbones one way round it would be to just cut the threaded boss down and weld the tube ends back up. Don't get too hung up on ride heights as different size wheel rims and tyre profiles will give different heights.

They are the book style ones, cut and weld was my second idea. It's annoying that I seem to get one step ahead then 2 back. I think this is the 4th or 5th thing wrong with the 3ge bits I bought, no wonder their no longer in business

That doesn't sound right - are the wishbones correct to book spec. My rear ones are standard wishbones, the adjuster is just a tube with a threaded stud welded to it and I have set it as per Spuds advice - http://www.haynes.co.uk/forums/showp...0&postcount=28

I've got a half nut on the outboard ends and have got 1/2deg of negative camber.

I think they are book spec, bought from 3ge as I wasn't that confident welding at the time, I've never actually measured them to check if they are correct.

With the adjuster it's the polybushed tube with a m20bolt welded on but there is about 20mm of collar on the bolt so I'm losing that adjustment.
I'll have a go at chopping that down and re welding to see if I can get some neg camber

There should be no collar as it should have been M20 studding so the thread should be right up the welds. Have you trimmed your top wishbones down yet, if not I'll make you a pair of camber adjusters this afternoon?

Yep, and with the fully threaded adjuster I can fit a full M20 nut as a lock nut.

is the lock nut even necessary as there is no way the adjustre can rotate once in the upright,.


Rob

Fail IVA possibly without,you know what they are like :rolleyes:

The reason for the locknut, is to prevent any small movement between threads , if left, wear would occur over time leading to a possible failure, think of a loose nut on a bolt there is a small amount of "backlash"

Cheers for the replys.
Sorry I missed your post phill was busy at work.
I've measured the bones and they are the original book spec (10mm too short) so I'm a little pissed off to put it mildly.

here is a pic of my adjuster. It's got a 25mm collar on it, no wonder I can't get the adjustment on it.

What are the implications of having the short bones? The car drives but will it be wearing the driveshafts or anything?

Before you do any thing else I'd suggest removing the half/lock nuts and setting the adjusters as far in as they will go, pull the CV gaitors back and grab the half shafts and see if you can move it between the the two CV joints at all. If there is movement your in luck if not maybe Twinturbo/Robin might be able to explain/confirm that with the CV joints constantly compressed with very little 'float' it could lead to problems later.
If you need new lower wishbones and adjusters you know where to find me I have 2 pairs of both currently in stock.

I'm sure someone reported an IVA fail point over lack of locknuts on the rear adjusters...

P.S. I bough 27 and 29 mm spanners for the front and rear camber adjuster locknuts so I don't scuff the nuts with a pipe wrench each time...

The shafts are fairly well compressed even on +10mm bones at the horizontal for the tripode shafts. The overall deflection from the horizontal is not massive though.

Are these tripode or lorobo shafts?

If lorobo you could machine 5mm of each joint end face with no decernable problems.

The other alternative that has been used before with the short bones is to move or modify the inner pivots to move them +10mm outwards

TT

There is about 15-20mm movements when I try and slide the half shafts between the upright and diff. Hopefully that will be enough not to cause any further damage.
I cut the adjusters down and rewelded them and with them fully wound in (with half nuts) gives me the 0.5-1deg neg camber I was after.

I'm pretty sure I saw someone fail iva with no half nuts and my station is REALLY picky (look at corrado v6's fails on LB)

They are push in shafts, if I moved the brackets out by 10mm and down a little bit and added a load of bracing to them, would that work?

Cut more thread on the bolt would possibly be an alternative as there is a lot of wasted space on the end that would screw in further,alternative make two new ones fully threaded.