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#1
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![]() After stressing about which direction I want to take my mx5 build, the broken diff nose issue keeps arising. Off work with a broken leg, so I am bored and decided to look into it. My local mazda dealer said that it was an issue on the 1.6 mx5, but the 1.8 diff is a lot stronger. I googled it, and can't find any 1.8 diff failures, only 1.6. Are we all worrying about nothing? Or is there a genuine problem, not that well publicised. If my car was a 1.6, I would drop the 1.8 in as a matter of course. But my car is a 1.8, so do I risk it ? Or look into better support ? Just thinking about trying to keep the weight down, and don't want to over complicate the build if I can help it.
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#2
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![]() Quote:
The Saturn nts car was an 1800 engined car. David
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Click to see my build photos on Flikr http://www.flickr.com/photos/67112582@N03/ Saturn MX5 Based Chassis, Limited Slip Diff & 2.4 Quick Rack. Build cost.... seems to be spending more on tools than car bits at the moment! (they will be handy in the future though). Car iva'd and passed 15/08/2014. Finished weight 572kg. Last edited by Davidbolam : 5th June 2013 at 12:36 AM. |
#3
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![]() Thanks for that. I noticed last night that the mk3 diff is mounted from the top. It would be a breeze to fit to the chassis, but I am not sure if its compatible with mk 1 and mk 2 models ?
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#4
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![]() Ohh the dreaded diff problem....
![]() ![]() As David said Nathan (NTS) made the mistake of not bolting the diff up correctly. There seems to be many options as to how to mount this correctly, just check out the Locost USA forums for a starter. Even the main kit car 7 suppliers have their unique way of installing the diff so there is no one hard rule. I believe the main concern is containing the torque on the nose of the diff. Have a look at all the options (check out Keith Tanners problem with this) and see what you can come up with? I believe Skov is the nearest to getting his car on the road and seems to have the nose of the diff under control with rubber mounts. Some ppl go for the solid mount option but this may lead to fatigue problems in the future.... Just my observations but I'm sure there are more people out there more knowledgeable than me. ![]() ![]()
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Any intelligent fool can make things bigger and more complex... It takes a touch of genius - and a lot of courage to move in the opposite direction. Albert Einstein http://s1199.photobucket.com/albums/aa472/JohnoSS1/ Johno |
#5
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#6
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![]() Hi,
I'm getting some questions about my solid diff mounts I made. Skov and PorkChop asked me a while ago If I could make them some when I did mine to share the cost of the aluminium but I cant make them for others I'm afraid. I'm sure Phil or someone could make them up if asked nicely. The bushes slip fit as the clamping action will be providing the support hence the thick lugs. ![]() I made them from 3.5" stock which is the perfect size, I didnt even bother turning down the outside surface. I chose 40mm and 20mm long because I was able to buy offcuts this size to save further on materials. It gives about a 10mm gap between the two halves when fitted so you can play with the individual lengths really as long as the lug parts are 12.5mm and you leave a gap so they can clamp on the diff ears when bolted up. Biggest problem I had was getting the old bushes out! A 3 jaw puller makes the job easy and theres some guides on the MX5 forums. I didnt have one of those so used a hammer and chisel to bend the outer bush casing in a bit then pushed them out with a 12 ton press. ![]() HTH Cheers Stot
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1.6 Mazda B6 : Garrett TBO339 : 420cc WRX Injectors : FMIC : Microsquirt V3 : LC-2 Wideband : Toyota COP : 1.8 ATB LSD Build Started Jan 2013 : OTR Aug 2014 : Still OTR June 2024 Last edited by Stot : 2nd August 2013 at 01:27 PM. |
#7
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![]() Thanks for popping up the dimensions stot. It must be really hard sharing one of your ideas. They are really appreciated.
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