Noob with a new mx5 Saturn build.

[norton]

I've got my brakes bled and working so hopefully that's sorted. I realise now though that I've stitched myself up for the fuel pipe routing. My gearbox mount is, sturdy and takes up a lot of room.

Would iva accept two 8mm fuel pipes passing through 30mm box section but insulated by grommets?

[Ianr]

gosh, don't know if they would but I wish I'd thought of that, made some extreme bends in mine to get past the same mount

[norton]

It might be a moot question as I don't think I can get my drill in there :(

[rpjg1975]

I managed to pick up a right angled drill attachment from lidl or Aldi a while back....one of those things that you spot and think "that might come in handy!"

[RichardH]

any place you can get the drill in, make up a small bracket and drill the holes etc then mig weld it in place, you can generally get a tack on it.

[norton]

I'll figure it out, there has to be a solution. Does anyone know off hand how close a fuel pipe can run next to a fixed object?

I have a one piece floor which bridges the trans tunnel and my mount, a 30x30 piece of box fits across the lower tunnel 20mm tubing. This means I have a 20mm gap between mount and ally floor, could I run the pipes through there?

[alga]

Have you done your rear panel yet? Here's a video that show how Caterham tacke their rear panel compound bends: https://youtu.be/Y3EbtLoROhU?t=3m57s

[norton]

So I'm up and running again after a bit of a break. I've started assembling the rear tub frame and the roll bar.

http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a311/ihatesissycars/75582D77-19E2-4C57-9AE9-9A35059C873C.jpg (http://s14.photobucket.com/user/ihatesissycars/media/75582D77-19E2-4C57-9AE9-9A35059C873C.jpg.html)

I'm stuck on the seat belt mounts. Putting the book spec roll bar cross frame on and mounting the bushes on or even in results in the mounts not lining up all that well with the holes in the seats. I'd have to screw the belts underneath the cross bar so I'm thinking I may follow others who fitted a bar to the chassis itself and put the mounts onto that.

[garyt]

just adjust the height of the cross bar to suit the belt slots in the seats and position the threaded bosses to suit the width of the slots. in the book it says "adjust measurements to suit seats"
if the cross bar is to low, the seats become load bearing as the belts would come upwards through the slot pivoting on the slot edge to your shoulders and down.
I know some people have had to provide seat structure reports for iva

a bit long winded but as said above the position of the crossmember and bosses was intended to be "to suit" rather than set in stone
hope this helps gary

[norton]

Hi, I' tried putting the bar lower but it didn't look right so abandoned that one but I did miss the comment in the book re adjusting it to suit.

I'll offer it all up again next garage session and see what sits most naturally.

[norton]

So the rear frame and roll bar are done, just some tidying and painting to finish.

http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a311/ihatesissycars/E4BD477C-E16B-4519-A345-2A90D8EF03B1.jpg (http://s14.photobucket.com/user/ihatesissycars/media/E4BD477C-E16B-4519-A345-2A90D8EF03B1.jpg.html)

http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a311/ihatesissycars/03AFA5A3-3906-4A9F-A45B-72FBA724FE7B.jpg (http://s14.photobucket.com/user/ihatesissycars/media/03AFA5A3-3906-4A9F-A45B-72FBA724FE7B.jpg.html)

I feel like I now need to go back over everything I've done and give it all a really good clean and consider my next move. My elaborate handbrake lever excess will need to go I think though as it leaves little room for the fuel lines.

[norton]

New tank!

http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a311/ihatesissycars/E2474AA0-6E5B-4212-9722-6F12FEDD58E1.jpg (http://s14.photobucket.com/user/ihatesissycars/media/E2474AA0-6E5B-4212-9722-6F12FEDD58E1.jpg.html)

http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a311/ihatesissycars/A924560A-07A8-4D83-B232-ABA3E33D4497.jpg (http://s14.photobucket.com/user/ihatesissycars/media/A924560A-07A8-4D83-B232-ABA3E33D4497.jpg.html)

http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a311/ihatesissycars/2F6C7A34-8FCD-475B-871C-A0ABC84BCBA6.jpg (http://s14.photobucket.com/user/ihatesissycars/media/2F6C7A34-8FCD-475B-871C-A0ABC84BCBA6.jpg.html)

[garyt]

looking good there and it really feels good as you get jobs done and moving forwards,
Gary

[TheArf]

I'm not 100% sure on this, but I seem to remember someone mentioning that the book design for the rear bolting of the rollbar was no longer acceptable at the IVA and that it had to be two bolts per rear stay. I may be wrong but double check.

Arfon

[SeriesLandy]

I'm not 100% sure on this, but I seem to remember someone mentioning that the book design for the rear bolting of the rollbar was no longer acceptable at the IVA and that it had to be two bolts per rear stay. I may be wrong but double check.

Arfon

I was thinking about mentionin the same thing. When AshG had his IVA test, it was one of the first few. They said 1 bolt on each stay wasn't acceptable, he had to have at least 2. I don't know if this rule still exists or if people have gone through with one bolt.
I took my stays to the chassis by the floor and ended up using 4bolts per side. Prob overkill

[flyerncle]

There is no requirement for a roll bar so in my view they are just being a pain,but more is better and safer.

12.9 domed cap screws are available and look pretty.

[norton]

Joy, I'll research it and report back. I can't see what difference it'll make as I'm sure the single high tensile m10 bolt is not the weakest part at those junctions.

[norton]

Could I leave the roll bar off for the test?

[TheArf]

If your not using it for your seatbelt mounts, I cant see why not

Arfon

[flyerncle]

Yes exactly,but make sure seat belt mounts conform to IVA requirements for height and strength etc.
Fairly sure that Westfield/Caterham had only one center bolt through bottom of roll hoop,so Haynes 4 bolt to me much safer.
The other thing that makes more sense(to Me)is to place rear stays on something more substantial like the diff mounts.

[TheArf]

The Westfield we have in work has the competition roll-bar and only has three bolts in it but it will never be going for IVA, it is a Westfield supplied item, the rear supports go down to the rear most diagonals of the chassis and bolts into a suspension bracket.

Arfon

[norton]

Its built now so I'm reluctant to chop it all up again. Nearer the time I'll check with the test centre about the bolt situation and go from there. If I can get away with not fitting the roll bar I may just plump for that.

[flyerncle]

Has the main tube of the hoop got one central bolt up through it to hold it down to rear seat bar on both sides.

[TheArf]

No it doesn't have the central bolt only the outer bolts. It's a well rapid little thing, with a Blackbird engine and the Westfield reverse box, Freelander rear axle:D

Arfon

[SeriesLandy]

Best to give them a ring at some point.
Assuming your using Southampton:

023 8083 7397
Unit R
Centurion Industrial Estste
Bitterne Road West
Northam
SO18 1UB
United Kingdom

[norton]

I will be yes, thank you.

http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a311/ihatesissycars/F23918E7-153E-4AA6-BA94-09210ADA53F9_1.jpg (http://s14.photobucket.com/user/ihatesissycars/media/F23918E7-153E-4AA6-BA94-09210ADA53F9_1.jpg.html)


http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a311/ihatesissycars/D71B2168-45E7-4FB8-9DF4-92BACC112C0C_1.jpg (http://s14.photobucket.com/user/ihatesissycars/media/D71B2168-45E7-4FB8-9DF4-92BACC112C0C_1.jpg.html)

The harness mounts aren't attached to it, at the moment, this could change.

The car is coming along otherwise.

http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a311/ihatesissycars/C83E0CF7-AA04-4B3F-9352-B7134AB14C3B.jpg (http://s14.photobucket.com/user/ihatesissycars/media/C83E0CF7-AA04-4B3F-9352-B7134AB14C3B.jpg.html)

http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a311/ihatesissycars/236F5B58-5887-45F1-8424-5EB8FCB8AB90.jpg (http://s14.photobucket.com/user/ihatesissycars/media/236F5B58-5887-45F1-8424-5EB8FCB8AB90.jpg.html)


I've reworked my handbrake position to something more conventional. I intend to spend a good amount of time getting the controls running as smoothly as possible and positioned as well as best as I can get them to suit me. Once that's done I'll then fit fix the tank in place, run the fuel lines and panel the interior.

[norton]

http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a311/ihatesissycars/64CE880B-EB89-4F57-AE02-DD509DD2555D.jpg (http://s14.photobucket.com/user/ihatesissycars/media/64CE880B-EB89-4F57-AE02-DD509DD2555D.jpg.html)

[norton]

Has anyone here successfully iva'd a car without using an indicator stalk but instead employed a different way of using the indicators? Dash mounted buttons?

Also the same with the ignition switch? I quite fancy a bare steering column you see.

[alga]

Well, Caterhams don't have indicator stalks, they have rocker switches on the panel. So that should not be a problem.

If you eliminate the ignition lock with the steering lock, though, you have to provide an alternative mechanical anti-theft device or an electronic immobilizer. See IVA manual section 13A.

[norton]

Thanks Alga, I am tempted as its a clean looking setup without the stalks, moar in keeping with the cars minimalist design.

Can anyone reccommend an edge trim to cover the corner/edge of my trans tunnel?

I need to make the top pieces bolt down (in order to give access for inspection during IVA) but I'll need a trim that covers the edge and allows for the panels removal...

[SeriesLandy]

They didn't look under my tunnel panels during iva. He didn't even want to look at the photos in had on my iPad. I have carpet with Velcro over the Ali panels.

[norton]

Thats what I wanted to hear. I can do a far neater job if I don't have to make it a quickly removable part.

[CTWV50]

Has anyone here successfully iva'd a car without using an indicator stalk but instead employed a different way of using the indicators? Dash mounted buttons?

Also the same with the ignition switch? I quite fancy a bare steering column you see.


Car's looking great. Who made the tank? dash buttons seem like a good idea for a clean column, but in reality it's simply dangerous when driving fast on the roads. I tried it and hated it. kept the dash buttons for now but never use them. Sorry to be negative but you'll see what I mean if you try it.:)

[Rosco]

Im going for just switches on the dash for everything, did you see my tunnel edge trim? Starting to look like a car now!

[norton]

Hey, yes I saw your tunnel trim, looks lovely and I will confess to trying to replicate it but I just can't cut my sheet ally with the same precision so mine would look gash. Cover it, that'll do!

I have had some success in making a sheet metal brake and the first job was to make a petrol tank clamp that hugs the tank from front to rear, errr, much like Roscos (you'll see a theme occurring here) and I can crack on with my fuel pipes which then means finishing the tunnel trim. With these jobs done I might tackle the ally side and rear panels before I think about them too much.

I've been distracted from the car lately as I needed to make a new tv unit and desk for my PC however I'm now back on track again.

[norton]

Tank is fitted! I painted the brace I made and lined everything with rubber. I've drilled and tapped these see flange which I'll fit with studs. I've also adapted the sender float by rotating it 90 degrees and reforming the float arm. It now reads absolute full and just above completely empty so there's a little reserve.

I can now crack on with running fuel lines along with some wiring clips along the tunnel.

http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a311/ihatesissycars/54731AD0-825C-4470-84A4-BFE9B4FC3C7E.jpg (http://s14.photobucket.com/user/ihatesissycars/media/54731AD0-825C-4470-84A4-BFE9B4FC3C7E.jpg.html)

http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a311/ihatesissycars/103EB50D-CAA2-4873-AF9C-BEACD2E5D02D.jpg (http://s14.photobucket.com/user/ihatesissycars/media/103EB50D-CAA2-4873-AF9C-BEACD2E5D02D.jpg.html)

http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a311/ihatesissycars/1425432F-6AFB-48DB-A787-670FC9AF4772.jpg (http://s14.photobucket.com/user/ihatesissycars/media/1425432F-6AFB-48DB-A787-670FC9AF4772.jpg.html)

I also got organised.

http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a311/ihatesissycars/5A82489A-47D3-4B7F-AD0E-404405D7583D.jpg (http://s14.photobucket.com/user/ihatesissycars/media/5A82489A-47D3-4B7F-AD0E-404405D7583D.jpg.html)

[K4KEV]

[QUOTE=norton;103356]Tank is fitted! I painted the brace I made and lined everything with rubber. I've drilled and tapped these see flange which I'll fit with studs. I've also adapted the sender float by rotating it 90 degrees and reforming the float arm. It now reads absolute full and just above completely empty so there's a little reserve.

I can now crack on with running fuel lines along with some wiring clips along the tunnel.



I sometimes have to remind peeps about that wee mod required on the sender/float arm.... although it is quite obvious how to do it when you come to imagine how it fits when you hold it up to where it would be at the back of the tank

[norton]

Yeah it didn't take long to realise it was a straightforward mod to get it functioning perfectly.

Oddly, fitting the tank feels like a significant turning point, like I've hit the halfway point. I like it.

[Rosco]

looking good mate!

we need some pictures of this sheet metal brake to!!

[norton]

So after a bit of a break I'm getting rolling again. I've got a vintage old bandsaw to finish restoring the. I'm going to get cracking with the rear and side panels.

http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a311/ihatesissycars/FFB029C3-2149-4692-B43B-3983119930B9.jpg (http://s14.photobucket.com/user/ihatesissycars/media/FFB029C3-2149-4692-B43B-3983119930B9.jpg.html)

I'm aiming to have it done by next summer, the deadline is set!

[garyt]

And join us on our Scotland tour :)

[norton]

Scotland? Jeez I'll be anxious about the end of the let alone the other end of the country!

So, I've ordered the nose cone, bonnet, scuttle and aero screen and whilst I'm waiting for those I'm going to crack on with the side and rear panels. I'm going to make them myself from ally which should be a giggle.

Does anyone here have any techniques for folding sheet ally without buying a metal brake?

[garyt]

lol it's called a sense of adventure .......
I did silverstone in her yee ha ( just make sure you add breakdown to the insurance )
Good luck making the panels I made my side panels from 1.5 steel marked out and cut to shape allowing for the return edges I then got a substantial length of 3x2 oak clamped it in place on the sheet corresponding with the top rail and started dolling along tedious it got there once that was done and the v notch cut to allow the bend I marked the diagonal fox this very technically was done by standing on said oak and pulling the bend by hand back on the frame mark the lower edge and do the return as for the top then make a carboard template for the wishbone mounts feeding rack exits once happy transfer and cut out
Sorry can't help with the back panel
Gary

[norton]

I've been busy today.

http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a311/ihatesissycars/E851B346-16A4-4BC6-9393-7D1AAA85FB3E.jpg (http://s14.photobucket.com/user/ihatesissycars/media/E851B346-16A4-4BC6-9393-7D1AAA85FB3E.jpg.html)

http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a311/ihatesissycars/7DDE2E0D-6B1F-4339-A4A5-0C730619A671.jpg (http://s14.photobucket.com/user/ihatesissycars/media/7DDE2E0D-6B1F-4339-A4A5-0C730619A671.jpg.html)

[norton]

I'll be starting on the side panels Monday. Hopefully they'll go well. The plan is to vinyl wrap the back and side to match the bodywork vmax is putting together for me.

[SteveH1]

Nice job looks well

[robj]

Nice job you've done there. Looks a lot smoother than I managed.

[norton]

Thanks guys, I'm really pleased with it and looking forward to the side panels now.

[norton]

One side panel is coming along.

http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a311/ihatesissycars/325E9D8D-0A52-4C22-A84B-13D48A1351FD.jpg (http://s14.photobucket.com/user/ihatesissycars/media/325E9D8D-0A52-4C22-A84B-13D48A1351FD.jpg.html)

http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a311/ihatesissycars/104360BF-BDAA-476D-9669-C80400FFE4ED.jpg (http://s14.photobucket.com/user/ihatesissycars/media/104360BF-BDAA-476D-9669-C80400FFE4ED.jpg.html)

http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a311/ihatesissycars/D75D8860-4E5D-4794-BF3E-19B3182100B5.jpg (http://s14.photobucket.com/user/ihatesissycars/media/D75D8860-4E5D-4794-BF3E-19B3182100B5.jpg.html)

I'm a bit stuck on the lower arms rear mounting hole. I was naive in thinking I didn't need to put a fold in the panel where the front most lower rail kicks more inwards than the top rail. I saw various grp panels that didn't but I can't see how that won't interfere with the lower arm. Bawlz.

[voucht]

Hi,
First congratulation for your rear tube: it looks excellent !

Second, as you say, some GRP panels are straight, as mine are. It does not interfere with ther lower wishbone, as the pivot point is 25mm (bottom rail) + 30mm (bracket) = 55mm higher than the lower face of the bottom rail, so it allows a bit of downward movement to the wishbone.

https://c4.staticflickr.com/6/5504/31466977915_777e9b40a7.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/PWCueZ)2014-08-07_15-42-02 (https://flic.kr/p/PWCueZ) by Sylvain ROIG (https://www.flickr.com/photos/99498333@N06/), sur Flickr

https://c2.staticflickr.com/6/5547/30658679593_7e359b30d3.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/NHcKj2)2014-08-07_16-36-22 (https://flic.kr/p/NHcKj2) by Sylvain ROIG (https://www.flickr.com/photos/99498333@N06/), sur Flickr

The main question for you, is how are you going to attach the front of your rear panel to the bottom rail ? That is also the reason why there is a fold in the book's ally side panels. My GRP panels have a 90° return underneath the panel.

https://c2.staticflickr.com/6/5817/31351983881_66c609b1d0.jpg (https:[url=https://flic.kr/p/PLt7we)SidePanel-NoDims (https://flic.kr/p/PLt7we) by Sylvain ROIG (https://www.flickr.com/photos/99498333@N06/), sur Flickr

[norton]

I should have said I've used the mx5 plans which includes a bar between the lower arms inner pivots. They're a lot more substantial on the inboard side. Having thought about it I can chop out a big window from the side panel to allow for them. I don't have much choice I think. Regards to mounting I was planning to make some brackets to go between the rail and panel. Annoyingly, in hindsight I should've made the ally panelling user the engine a lot wide to bridge that gap.

[SteveH]

That's exactly how I want the back of mine to look
Was it easy enough to bend around the rear frame?

I've been busy today.

http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a311/ihatesissycars/E851B346-16A4-4BC6-9393-7D1AAA85FB3E.jpg (http://s14.photobucket.com/user/ihatesissycars/media/E851B346-16A4-4BC6-9393-7D1AAA85FB3E.jpg.html)

http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a311/ihatesissycars/7DDE2E0D-6B1F-4339-A4A5-0C730619A671.jpg (http://s14.photobucket.com/user/ihatesissycars/media/7DDE2E0D-6B1F-4339-A4A5-0C730619A671.jpg.html)

[norton]

It was far easier than I thought it would be. If you watch this video about caterhams somewhere in it shows a guy folding the corners. https://youtu.be/Y3EbtLoROhU
Definitely start from the middle though and work outwards and pre bend the basic corners over a tube (or welding gas bottle) first.

[SteveH]

What size sheet of aluminium did you use for the rear?
It was far easier than I thought it would be. If you watch this video about caterhams somewhere in it shows a guy folding the corners. https://youtu.be/Y3EbtLoROhU
Definitely start from the middle though and work outwards and pre bend the basic corners over a tube (or welding gas bottle) first.

[norton]

It started life as 2500x700mm (1.2 thick) and finished a lot smaller.

For the record I used this saw WORX WX423 85mm 400W Compact Circular Saw Worxsaw https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B01AI44PSK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_v7Xryb0RQJ7RG with this blade https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/112033399307 for chopping up all my sheet ally. Sails through it like it's not there.

[norton]

The offside side panel is nearly done. I decided to just chop a big piece our to clear my suspension arms.

http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a311/ihatesissycars/F5B64282-5E83-41D3-AB78-2DDFCD1C60B3.jpg (http://s14.photobucket.com/user/ihatesissycars/media/F5B64282-5E83-41D3-AB78-2DDFCD1C60B3.jpg.html)

http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a311/ihatesissycars/0C8D1B93-F5E9-4C4A-A474-F78F154354BB.jpg (http://s14.photobucket.com/user/ihatesissycars/media/0C8D1B93-F5E9-4C4A-A474-F78F154354BB.jpg.html)

I need to find a tidy way of capping the inner edges of the cockpit along these rails. The curved one might be an issue. I've been looking for trim and mouldings that can flex/stretch without buckling as it travels along this radious.

http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a311/ihatesissycars/B97527B5-AB2B-46E7-909B-AE25CDAFBD98.jpg (http://s14.photobucket.com/user/ihatesissycars/media/B97527B5-AB2B-46E7-909B-AE25CDAFBD98.jpg.html)

http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a311/ihatesissycars/A8881A6F-E25F-490B-9249-B1129698AFFC.jpg (http://s14.photobucket.com/user/ihatesissycars/media/A8881A6F-E25F-490B-9249-B1129698AFFC.jpg.html)

[garyt]

Nice work there as regards the top edge I used some aluminium angle with pipe lagging cut inhalf then wrapped in matching / contrasting leather cloth gives a nice finish and a bit comfier for your right elbow lol once wrapped simply attached with tiger seal can add a pic if required or I think it's in my build thread

[norton]

Thanks Gary, I like the sound of that, I'll give that a go thank you!

[norton]

Can anyone tell me how far back they've mounted their silencer? I want to get going with building my cars exhaust but don't have a wheel arch yet to guide my silencer placement.

[voucht]

Hi,

The wheel arch follows the curve of SS1/CP11, so you can have a good idea where their front tip ends up on BR5 or BR6.

Otherwise here is a drawing of the Equinox rear arch with measurements I made. If you print it or redraw it at scale 1:1 on a cardboard and cut it, you'll have a mock up of where the wheel arch will be on your chassis. Be careful to respect front and rear side, they are not the same.
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B-iOekLVikV5enU4LVZwdnNXMWM/view?usp=sharing
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B-iOekLVikV5cVVmdTJSUmpMWE0/view?usp=sharing

Hope this will help :)

[norton]

You're s star thank you! I'll hopefully be able to start it this week now.

Thanks again!

[norton]

Exhaust.

http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a311/ihatesissycars/8D273DAA-6699-4258-9958-D638C272F02E.jpg (http://s14.photobucket.com/user/ihatesissycars/media/8D273DAA-6699-4258-9958-D638C272F02E.jpg.html)

I had welded the 90/rolled tip together by here and tacked together the cat. I'll crack on with the pipe between the cat and manifold this weekend. I need to rig up an argon back purge then I'll weld the rest. Tig welding stainless wasn't as straightforward as I presumed...

http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a311/ihatesissycars/5326EF2B-299D-408F-9173-56DE0DE1B646.jpg (http://s14.photobucket.com/user/ihatesissycars/media/5326EF2B-299D-408F-9173-56DE0DE1B646.jpg.html)

http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a311/ihatesissycars/D1B3371D-30D2-40EB-A08C-6A68CC20B81D.jpg (http://s14.photobucket.com/user/ihatesissycars/media/D1B3371D-30D2-40EB-A08C-6A68CC20B81D.jpg.html)

And some white vinyl wrap!

http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a311/ihatesissycars/DBB2B9D3-5EBC-4388-92DE-0AF5EDF95F90.jpg (http://s14.photobucket.com/user/ihatesissycars/media/DBB2B9D3-5EBC-4388-92DE-0AF5EDF95F90.jpg.html)

[SteveH1]

Lookin good fair play.
Where did you get the exhaust parts they look nice

[norton]

Thank you, they're from several different vendors across eBay and the net. Wherever was cheapest! Profusion exhausts had the bends and cat which was much cheaper than most. I wanted to future proof the exhaust as I will turbo charge the engine after iva so went with an admittedly excessive 3" diameter setup but it certainly looks good!

[garyout]

Looking good mate how was the vinyl to put on ?


:D Gary

[norton]

It wasn't too bad once I'd gotten the hang of it. Definitely a two person job. One to hold it tight once started and the other to squeegee it on. It looks good though.

[garyout]

yea I agree top job I get the arse hanging wall paper :D

Gary

[CTWV50]

Exhaust.

http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a311/ihatesissycars/8D273DAA-6699-4258-9958-D638C272F02E.jpg (http://s14.photobucket.com/user/ihatesissycars/media/8D273DAA-6699-4258-9958-D638C272F02E.jpg.html)

I had welded the 90/rolled tip together by here and tacked together the cat. I'll crack on with the pipe between the cat and manifold this weekend. I need to rig up an argon back purge then I'll weld the rest. Tig welding stainless wasn't as straightforward as I presumed...

http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a311/ihatesissycars/5326EF2B-299D-408F-9173-56DE0DE1B646.jpg (http://s14.photobucket.com/user/ihatesissycars/media/5326EF2B-299D-408F-9173-56DE0DE1B646.jpg.html)

http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a311/ihatesissycars/D1B3371D-30D2-40EB-A08C-6A68CC20B81D.jpg (http://s14.photobucket.com/user/ihatesissycars/media/D1B3371D-30D2-40EB-A08C-6A68CC20B81D.jpg.html)

And some white vinyl wrap!

http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a311/ihatesissycars/DBB2B9D3-5EBC-4388-92DE-0AF5EDF95F90.jpg (http://s14.photobucket.com/user/ihatesissycars/media/DBB2B9D3-5EBC-4388-92DE-0AF5EDF95F90.jpg.html)

Oooo looking good, like that exhaust with those sexy tires.

[Ianr]

I did similar with my exhaust system but felt I would have an issue with the edges of the silencer facing front and rear at IVA. To get round it I got an old saucepan lid (don't tell the management) and cut a hole for the exhaust pipe, fitted a treat and looked good as well

[CTWV50]

I did similar with my exhaust system but felt I would have an issue with the edges of the silencer facing front and rear at IVA. To get round it I got an old saucepan lid (don't tell the management) and cut a hole for the exhaust pipe, fitted a treat and looked good as well

That's my kind of solution! Ace! :D

[norton]

Some more done. I just need to weld up all the joins.

http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a311/ihatesissycars/9B2666B1-3530-4937-BAE4-6514D1D097C6.jpg (http://s14.photobucket.com/user/ihatesissycars/media/9B2666B1-3530-4937-BAE4-6514D1D097C6.jpg.html)

http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a311/ihatesissycars/7A9B3AD4-47E0-4006-8CD5-9DAC1758D91E.jpg (http://s14.photobucket.com/user/ihatesissycars/media/7A9B3AD4-47E0-4006-8CD5-9DAC1758D91E.jpg.html)

http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a311/ihatesissycars/F725B568-C842-49DA-94F9-482974855594.jpg (http://s14.photobucket.com/user/ihatesissycars/media/F725B568-C842-49DA-94F9-482974855594.jpg.html)

Oh, and polish it!

[SteveH1]

Sweet. Where are the seats from

[norton]

These but with black piping. http://www.passionauto.co.uk/products/universal-narrow-fit-bucket-car-seats-designed-for-kit-cars.html

I bought mine via eBay though from a chap who bought but never used them.

[SteveH1]

How snug are they

[garyout]

Looking the part mate very impressed with the quality of your build.

What have you covered back panel and sides of tunnel in?

Gary

[norton]

In the car, very. On me (I'm a 12st rake) they're a glove.

Thanks Gary! The back panel is a carbon look vinyl wrap where's the tunnel is just satin black paint.

[garyout]

Hi mate

I like that very much where did you get the vinyl from? Did the paint etch to the alli ok

Gary

[norton]

eBay. Carbon look vinyl wrap is everywhere! I used an etch primer on a keyed surface so the paint has held on well. I used the Simoniz tough black satin spray and it cures very hard. I've not chipped it yet despite my clumsiness.

[garyout]

Cheers mate


Gary :D

[norton]

I managed to get an hour in the garage today so I tackled some more of the trans tunnel.

http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a311/ihatesissycars/CF259E88-6EBC-4BE3-9702-54A2C8FE7E53.jpg (http://s14.photobucket.com/user/ihatesissycars/media/CF259E88-6EBC-4BE3-9702-54A2C8FE7E53.jpg.html)

http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a311/ihatesissycars/9A12FCAF-B949-4F56-A7BB-EF52A8812E1A.jpg (http://s14.photobucket.com/user/ihatesissycars/media/9A12FCAF-B949-4F56-A7BB-EF52A8812E1A.jpg.html)

That's a cv boot around the gear stick. I need some heat shrink to secure the rather than a cable tie. Also that carbon wrap is going, satin black is more preferable.

[Rosco]

looking cracking mate, some nice ideas in there :D

one thing, i found useing the normal black bolts they go rusty very quick, i sand blasted the heads and painted them black :cool:

[norton]

Thanks Rosco, I'll give them a spray for sure. Your p section rubber trim idea has worked out perfectly and wasn't too difficult to complete either.

I'm hoping to wrap up a few of the last remaining jobs I have before more parts are required to move forward. My fuel lines need tidying at the tank end and my handbrake cables look more like an open autopsy than anything resembling an iva pass...

Does anyone know where I can have my chassis number milled into a piece of steel?

[garyt]

Hi lovely build and great to see you cracking on
Re bin number I used a guy on eBay who stamped it on a piece of flat bar then I seam welded it to the chassis
Will see if I can dig his details out but it's been a while or any local engineering works should be able to stamp it

[norton]

Thanks Gary that'd be really helpful thank you!

Some odd bits sorted today. The fuel lines are now finished and the last few needed tweaks to the tunnel panels. I also made a bracket to attach the Toyota ignition could to the engine.

I was quite pleased with this one.

Before paint mock up.

http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a311/ihatesissycars/81C6F43C-5D33-4810-8F04-AFC61B66F81D.jpg (http://s14.photobucket.com/user/ihatesissycars/media/81C6F43C-5D33-4810-8F04-AFC61B66F81D.jpg.html)

And painted!

http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a311/ihatesissycars/F816109F-77DC-473A-8754-E91310FCDC70.jpg (http://s14.photobucket.com/user/ihatesissycars/media/F816109F-77DC-473A-8754-E91310FCDC70.jpg.html)

http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a311/ihatesissycars/C28B484D-DA98-4BB0-8CEA-6077061FCE4D.jpg (http://s14.photobucket.com/user/ihatesissycars/media/C28B484D-DA98-4BB0-8CEA-6077061FCE4D.jpg.html)

They don't budge even a millimetre now!

[norton]

I'm gonna have a punt at stitching together my own boot cover I think. Has anyone tried this themselves here before? I'm hoping there's a reasonably priced sewing machine local to me that's capable of stitching heavier fabrics like vinyl or the mohair types.

[vmax1974]

Not sure how true it is but someone once told me that the old singers were good for that kind of thing

[norton]

I was hoping that was the case. I read somewhere that a heavier duty machine is needed plus a 'walking foot' type machine is very helpful too. Annoyingly I took a big heavy duty one apart recently to make a new table :mad:

[Bonzo]

I recently bought an old Singer sewing machine to fabricate some vinyl covers for my boat seats.
Works a treat with the right size needle & correct thread.
Stitches perfectly through 2 layers of vinyl + the pvc piping.

unless the fabric is very grippy you could probably get away with just using a Teflon foot.
Walking foot attachments are available at reasonable cost, bought one but never needed to use it.

Just look out for any cheap metal bodied domestic sewing machine, Singer Brother ect.

I did think about buying an industrial walking foot machine but simply can't justify the cost.
Another thing about industrial machines is the stitching speed, way too fast for a novice like me to control. :D

There are some great sewing tutorials on youtube ;)

Never touched a sewing machine in my life before but I am more than happy with the seat covers I made. :)

[Bonzo]

Here's a poor photo of my first crack at sewing.

http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj266/Bonzoronnie/100_1007_zps2miszqn2.jpg (http://s274.photobucket.com/user/Bonzoronnie/media/100_1007_zps2miszqn2.jpg.html)

Quite therapeutic once you get the hang of things. :)

[norton]

You are a star thank you! That's the reassurance I needed to push on with it. Can you tell me which model Singer you have please?

[Bonzo]

The model I bought was Singer 3105

Stitch length up 5mm, center stitch + Left or Right ( straight stitch )
Also has a zig zag stitching capability.

Circa 1970s , a good solid basic machine.

One currently on ebay item: 191964756706 Cheap for what it is.

I paid £129 for mine but it was from a sewing machine center & had been fully serviced/set up.
Worked brilliant straight from the box.

I don't doubt that there are better machines out there but for a one off bit of trial & error, works fine for me. :)

Going to have a go at some covers just as soon as the weather warms up. :)

[norton]

Thank you again. I'm going to go for it. I've never done anything like it before so I'm looking forward to the challenge. Watch this space...

[norton]

I'm stuck on material choice for the boot cover and other parts. Black vinyl is an obvious choice but I'm not keen on the look. I thoughts of using a black outdoors canvas but, I don't know, I'm not convinced mainly because I've never handled it.

Also, will it need a second layer of something to give it more weight and substance?

[TSM Locost]

Good place to start https://www.profabrics.co.uk/collections/all/Marine

[norton]

Well, I found some black mohair for a very reasonable price so have that on the way now. Not long before I ruin it now!

[Bonzo]

I'll be alright :)

Watch a few online tutorials & grab an off cut to practice with.
Working with an off cut will also help you to ensure the sewing machine is set up properly for the material being used. ;)

Just take it slow & easy, will turn out just fine.

[norton]

I'm sure it'll be fine plenty of planning a nd practice as you say.

With regards to the pop fasteners, what's the best way to mount them to the sheet ally?

The back face of the hole in the fastener is not flat on the surface it mounts to. I've just tried fitting one with a rivet to some scrap sheet ally and the ally gets pulled inwards towards the back of the fastener. Its not particularly neat and risks pulling through the ally panel destroying the hole.

[Bonzo]

Personally I would use a stainless countersunk screw of the correct size to suit the popper.

You could also get poppers that are a screw fit.

Another possibility is to pack the back of the popper with washers to stop the alloy deforming.

Here is one of the types of popper I use.

http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj266/Bonzoronnie/Cover%20poppers_zps0kcc7vo2.jpg (http://s274.photobucket.com/user/Bonzoronnie/media/Cover%20poppers_zps0kcc7vo2.jpg.html)

Ebay is a good source of all things related to cover fixings, just search for " Boat cover fasteners "

[norton]

I made some progress with the boot cover today. I've fitted all the poppers to the bodywork, I used load spreading washers on the back side of the panels which worked perfectly. I need to cut some side pieces out and stitch them to the main piece. Once that's done I can stitch the edging onto it which sounds easier than it looks!

http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a311/ihatesissycars/4CAD60AF-6783-4598-B246-ADE2FD0BA116.jpg (http://s14.photobucket.com/user/ihatesissycars/media/4CAD60AF-6783-4598-B246-ADE2FD0BA116.jpg.html)

http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a311/ihatesissycars/1F92A1DD-E2A6-4566-9820-0986BA40D4DB.jpg (http://s14.photobucket.com/user/ihatesissycars/media/1F92A1DD-E2A6-4566-9820-0986BA40D4DB.jpg.html)

[SteveH]

Good work
Apart from the rivets I can see securing the rear panel how else have you secured it over the rear tubes?

Steve

[Bonzo]

Looking great, that's going to be a nice tidy job once complete. :cool: :)

Someone will correct me if I am wrong, I would imagine that the rear arches will cover those rivet heads once fitted.

[norton]

Thanks guys! The front edge of the cover is held on by poppers as well. They'll hold it on all the way around.

If you mean the rivets around the suspension opening then yes the arches should cover them all.

[SteveH]

I meant how was the rear panel secured

Thanks guys! The front edge of the cover is held on by poppers as well. They'll hold it on all the way around.

If you mean the rivets around the suspension opening then yes the arches should cover them all.

[norton]

Rivets where it meets the suspension aperture and by being formed over the top and bottom rear panel hoops. I added some sikaflex in a few places to get rid of some vibration noises when you tap it.

[norton]

I'm just about to order some shocks for my car but before I do I'm trying to find a thread on here where we talked about the front shock length. I've built my car to Saturn plans which stipulates a 13" front shock but I was advised to go with a 14" front shock on here somewhere. Does anyone know why and if so, is that a full 14" shock or 13" with a 1" extension?

[Ianr]

I used Gaz 14" open 9.5" closed shocks from Rallydesign. I read several posts that indicated these were the correct ones and they seem fine on my car

[norton]

Is that for a Sierra based build? Mines an MX5 build using the Saturn Sports Cars plans.

I vaguely recall someone saying to use 14" front shocks for mine as 13" shocks can top out easily causing some handling issues (I presume the wheel could potentially leave the ground or go very light?)

[SteveH1]

Try emailing protech the should know what people have been buying

[norton]

I've spoken to them but they're only aware of the 13/12 combo for the Saturn cars.

[norton]

The thread I was thinking off preceded talons gaz shock group buy thread however, that appears to have been deleted.

[chris_smith]

I ordered 14" - 9.5" and 12" - 8.5" I'm also using Saturn plans

[norton]

Is that a full 14" shock or 13" with a 1" extension?

[chris_smith]

I ordered these -

https://www.rallydesign.co.uk/product_info.php?products_id=5242

And -

https://www.rallydesign.co.uk/product_info.php?products_id=5240

[chris_smith]

I then ordered springs from merlinmotorsport

[norton]

Are you happy with the ride?

[chris_smith]

It's not on the road yet to be honest, but it all sits well, procomp are said to be the Ines to get if you have the extra cash, but I don't think gaz will be that bad unless you're looking at regular track days etc

[norton]

Great stuff, thank you, I'll put my order in tomorrow.

[Ianr]

Is that for a Sierra based build? Mines an MX5 build using the Saturn Sports Cars plans.

I vaguely recall someone saying to use 14" front shocks for mine as 13" shocks can top out easily causing some handling issues (I presume the wheel could potentially leave the ground or go very light?)


Sorry for the slow reply - work got in the way. Mine is an MX5 / Sierra hybrid but the front end is indeed Sierra based. These shocks give 0.5" more travel than the 13" with 1" extension and although my mileage is low on the road it seems fine but it is really excellent on track.

[norton]

I went for 14 and 12" Protechs in the end in all black. I've also got all my lighting on the way asides from the rear clusters which I've not made my mind up on yet. The clear Caterham units look reasonable but the price is excessive for what they are.

I saw this and found the lights on eBay but I've certain they're not e-marked (but the guys car in the picture passed with them on, I suspect they were overlooked). I would go for them if I was certain they'd pass. £30 a pair too.

http://locostbuilders.co.uk/upload/SDC10104sm.jpg#

Has anyone any nice looking suggestions?

[norton]

Hi guys,

so things have changed at home here and my spare time for the next year or so has now vanished. My project so far has become a burden overnight and its time for me to part ways with it. I've cancelled my order for bodywork with Vmax as well so what I've made and gathered together is available as a job lot.

The chassis has a number from the DVLA and I have a copy of the MX5 V5 from which the engine and other Mazda parts came from.

A lot of parts a new or refurbished and refinished and overall is a sound base and head start from which to continue for a quick finish for the right person with the time and money to do so.

I'll compile am accurate list of parts ad better description soon.

I'm looking for £1650. The car is based in Hampshire.

[garyout]

Norton

That's sad news mate you was cracking on with your build. it will be a great bargain for someone


Gary

[norton]

Cheers bud, I'm not massively bothered but the time it needs is no longer available so the responsible thing to do is move it on.

[norton]

More on the cars spec,

The engine is from a mk2 and is a 1.6 and the gearbox came from the matching car. I have removed the sump, rocker, inlet and a few other bits and pieces to have them soda blasted. The rest as been degreased and refinished as necc. All new seals throughout. Coil on plug conversion using Toyota coils. The lower coolant outlet has been reversed to allow more space for a turbo later on. The engine was very low miles and was free of any ailments at all. IT sounded very smooth.

The rear diff was also blasted with the diff carrier powder coated black. New bearings and seals fitted and an ATB type LSD (new).

The brakes were from the same car and were also soda blasted and stove enameled a dark gold colour. New pistons, seals, internals etc fitted, they're as new. New hand brake cables are in there also. All discs are new with EBC pads.

The prop has been shortened and balanced as well. I had a new tank made by JAF fabrications whole you'll find on ebay. This takes the MX5 sender/pump which is fitted and waiting for fuel. Fuel lines have been run also.

The hubs and uprights were blasted/cleaned via electrolysis and painted, new wheel bearings fitted front and rear.

The exhaust was made myself using 3" 304 stainless. There's a 200cell cat included into the system too.

The wheels are the very light 13" team dynamics wheels. The front tyres are legal and balanced but the rears are not so are just on there for build purposes.

Front suspension arms are powdered coated, the rears are painted by me.

I have 5.75 headlights, new and boxed in black from SVC. These are the same as Caterham items. I also have rear led lights, rear fog and revers lights and number plate lights. There is also led front and side repeaters there too. All new and boxed. The seatbelts are fitted too, I forget the name but are a commonly used item and brand new. Everything else you can see from its pics. The brakes are bleed and work as is the clutch.

Steering is done just needing alignment once on its wheels. There is the shortest ratio quick rack I could find in there which is new and as the correct adaptors/extensions on there. All suspension joints are new as well.

There's probably more which I'll type up as I remember.

[norton]

I'm having second thoughts. Somebody please tell me its ok to leave it in the garage for 12/18 months without doing anything to it :(

[SeriesLandy]

I'm having second thoughts. Somebody please tell me its ok to leave it in the garage for 12/18 months without doing anything to it :(

Are you going to regret selling it? I left mine for at least 9 months without touching it when we moved into our house.
TBH I'm surprised you've found the time with your little one growing up, I know how they sap all you spare time!

[SteveH1]

Of course its ok to leave it its a cracking build and it will be waiting paitiently for you on the other end
If you dont need the money leave it where it is.

[norton]

I did a lot of if whilst she was brewing then had a break during the early months. She spent 6 months in hospital as she had some cardiac and other deformities that needed some serious operations. This car was my distraction as a way of coping. The amount I built and effort exerted was equal to the stress we were going through.

My reasons for putting it on hold are due to the lack of child car. The only person we felt comfortable with looking after her (as there is still risk she could become unwell or, due to her corrections choke very easily) whilst my wife and I worked was my mum but she had to do 2 hours of travelling to come to us and it became too much so my wife switched jobs. We're both nurses and work long days, 7am to 9pm and work alternate days to cover being at home. Now I have zero time available for the car unless I use some of my annual leave to carry out the occasional job on it. I hate the idea of it sat there for extended periods and not moving forward hence the sale.

[SteveH1]

God thats tough going its not nice when they are not well i recently found out my little one has type 1 diabetes i know its not on the same scale but god its hard to see and deal with.
As regards to the car there are plenty of stories on here of people who have left there car for 5 years even longer.
But at the end of the day its up to you and if i wasnt in ireland i would of bought it by now.

[Ianr]

My vote would be to keep it. My latest is my fourth car and the third had to go about 40 years ago for similar reasons to yours. I always regretted it and promised myself 'one day....'. For me that day has taken over 40 years to come around - if you have to leave it a year and can maybe go and visit it for 10 minutes or so occasionally that will be fine. It's an excellent looking build and if I hadn't already got a car built (and am preparing for a Midlana build as well) I would have snapped your car up in an instant.

let it sit a while - things will change sometime in the future :)

[norton]

I know your pain Steve, I hope the little one receives the care and support you need to help manage their diagnosis.

I think it needs to stay. It's tearing me up thinking about someone taking it away and seeing an empty space after. It's helped me through some horribly painful times and it's clear to me now I'm very attached to it. It's a keeper, it's going nowhere.

[SeriesLandy]

I personally think you are making the right decision. You will always look at it and think that it got me through the toughest times.
Good luck with the rest of the build. The Iva at Southampton wasn't as bad as you think and the guys were really good

[Bonzo]

I think it needs to stay. It's tearing me up thinking about someone taking it away and seeing an empty space after. It's helped me through some horribly painful times and it's clear to me now I'm very attached to it. It's a keeper, it's going nowhere.



I hope you do decide keep your build.
Sounds like you will be gutted to see it go, as Steve said, you'll probably end up with many regrets.

My builds have not seen the light of day for over 3 years due to health issues.
Yes, makes me sad that they are abandoned but I know I would regret parting with them.

[norton]

I will regret it for sure. I've sold two valve amplifiers I built and regret those, time to learn from multiple mistakes. I will wrap it up and tuck it away though soon. It'd be nice to complete the available work though with the parts I have. I have a week of in a month. I'd like to get some rear arches fitted, complete the tonneau cover and fit all the lights. I'd feel good about that.

[norton]

I have some rear arches on the way next week courtesy of vmax. I need to order some riv nuts or collapsible type nuts along with piping. I'd like it here ready for their arrival. Can anyone link me to what you get used so I can get ordering please?

[SteveH1]

I havnt fitted my arches yet but i have used m6 aluminium rivnuts for the stuff i have fitted as i already had them
Where do u want the piping for

[norton]

Thanks dude. I wanted 'P' profile piping to go between the arch and side panel like caterham do.

[SteveH1]

Oh right dont plan on doing that.
But what i am going to do is cut some ali the shape of the lip that the bolts go through and put it on the inside to make it stronger so the bolts dont pull through the fibreglass if that makes sense

[norton]

I was going to use penny washers with rubber washers to dissipate the load as best as possible.

[norton]

Here's my most recent pics of the car so far.

http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a311/ihatesissycars/7002CF78-4EEA-4CD3-9D05-FF2FE896697B.jpg (http://s14.photobucket.com/user/ihatesissycars/media/7002CF78-4EEA-4CD3-9D05-FF2FE896697B.jpg.html)

http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a311/ihatesissycars/184B9414-5230-4090-954F-33E08C5C0473.jpg (http://s14.photobucket.com/user/ihatesissycars/media/184B9414-5230-4090-954F-33E08C5C0473.jpg.html)

http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a311/ihatesissycars/8F83D9A2-CA4E-48EC-B7B9-F5161E907342.jpg (http://s14.photobucket.com/user/ihatesissycars/media/8F83D9A2-CA4E-48EC-B7B9-F5161E907342.jpg.html)

[norton]

http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a311/ihatesissycars/E2D50446-5249-442A-AAC2-8057ADEF554F.jpg (http://s14.photobucket.com/user/ihatesissycars/media/E2D50446-5249-442A-AAC2-8057ADEF554F.jpg.html)

http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a311/ihatesissycars/0C8C051E-B2AA-4F37-930A-65A3372B1D45.jpg (http://s14.photobucket.com/user/ihatesissycars/media/0C8C051E-B2AA-4F37-930A-65A3372B1D45.jpg.html)

I'm assured to have some rear arches by next weekend so I'm looking forward to getting those on.

I have some carbon front arches arrive Tuesday as well and I've planned my wing stays that should be both minimal whilst a bit interesting to look at too.

[garyout]

Norton


That is looking awesome I bet your glad you kept it?
What have you used to trim the tops of chassis by seats?

I'm hoping to collect my body work in the next 3-4 weeks I'm desperate to crack on as im slowly falling out of love with my build.

Where you getting your arches from?

Gary

[norton]

Yes, every time I look at it feels like the right thing to keep it.

The arches are coming from Vmax. Its been a while but I understand we're moving forward now.

That black trim is this https://www.amazon.co.uk/Tinksky-L-shaped-Thicken-Protector-Anti-collision/dp/B00N1OQQB4/ref=pd_cart_rp_1_2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=8PNKMG3D197K0CYB47GP as I had some left over from baby proofing some bits. Its not the best, I just tried it for the sake of it.

[norton]

Could anyone kindly measure the length of their shocks when sat on the ground at normal road height?

I need to make some dummy shocks at these lengths you see.

[garyout]

Norton

Cheers for link is it up to the job or are you going to try something different?

Sorry I ment carbon arches does help if I put that doh

Gary

[norton]

It'll do the job but it looks cheap. I was going to use some ally angle that is then upholstered to do it properly. I have some parts accrued to make a roller to form some angle into a curve for the bits over the arches.

[Rosco]

looking nice mate, keep cracking on and you will be on the road in no time

[norton]

Thanks buddy, I'll keep at it, the excitement for it is still very much alive and kicking. Any updates on yours?

[norton]

Can anyone point me towards a supplier of rivets with extra large flange black rivets for my front arches?

[TSM Locost]

car builders cat. page 383 14mm dia. ?

[SteveH1]

Try you local ford dealer. They use black plastic coated rivets on the some of their cars

[norton]

So, I've been thinking more about my bodywork and have decided to take the plunge and attempt to make my own scuttle and bonnet. The scuttle I don't fin particularly alarming as I can fabricate a steel frame which I can then skin with ally. The bonnet is a source of anxiety though as if its so much as a millimetre out it'll look gash. it'd no doubt going to take some time and need huge amounts of fettling. My main motivation for this is that funding for the car is going to dry up for a while but these should take an equally long amount of time to get right so, that's fine.

Another thing I'm having second thoughts on is the eventual (meaning years) plan for the future was to turbo charge the car but the more I think about past engines that I've really enjoyed I'm tempted to go the other way and produce a crisp naturally aspirated engine. The best car motor I've used was in fact a 1.6 205 gti. It was not fast but I didn't car. It was exciting, sounded great, took off at the top end and loved to basically rev its nuts off. The close ratio gearbox was also equally important.

So, I'm very tempted to go for an ITB setup coupled with a cam change. There are also close ratio gear kits available for the MX5 box to compliment this.

Whats good about this plan as no matter what I was going to run the engine from an MS ecu which means dyno time. Why not fit the itb's no prior to IVA and pay for one lot of dyno time? Anyways, I'm on a night shift and having a thought vomit so better shut up now before I plan even more elaborate ideas.

[garyt]

For what it's worth I went supercharger on my 03 1.8 mx5 engine
Standard ecu , note the 03 ecu is classed as "adaptive" the earlier ecu' I know nowt about any how I fitted a sport cat off eBay kept the 2 o2 sensors and kept the egr system in place and its emissions were spot on no worries for Iva
Afterwards you can then go itb's or go f/I as you wish
Just ma twopenneth:)

[norton]

How does it drive with the charger?

[garyt]

Awesome :)
There are some clips on YouTube look for Haynes roadster built now having fun by gary taylor and there are details of how I did it in my build thread on the forum but basically a mini eaton m45 charger Passat Tdi intercooler a second throttle body and some imagination to hide it all in there
The sound is great power delivery is smooth and the boost svt kick is something else
The charger is "on" all the time unlike a turbo but as I also have the svt engine I get a big kick further up the revs
Enjoy the videos

[garyt]

Should also add if you want any more info details just shout at me only to happy to help
Incidentally she is as happy tootling along as she is spiriting along ... ahem in fact we are off on Sunday touring Scotland
Don't let lack of funds put you off I didn't have an open cheque book it just takes some lateral thinking and a little more time, fabricate rather than buy, you WILL get there and remember dreams don't cost anything

[garyout]

supercharger great sound track to drive to :D

Gary

GaryT

what's the reason for two throttle butterfly's

[garyt]

It cuts down some of the induction roar and improves the throttling, normally the first (closest to intake) is open slightly ahead of the main one so the main one on the plenum retains its electronics the second one is bare and is just a t/b with any other ports blanked off
I did my research on mx5 nutz where there is a wealth of info and then adapted it to fit on my Haynes all out of site :)
Plenty of comments as people ask what the noise is and a smile when you tell them, David said it was like being chased over the mountain by a monster lol

[garyout]

I remember the supercharged mini we had the whine of the charger was so addictive even better when I changed the pulley :D

Gary


Norton

Hats off to you for giving the handmade body work ago I am to heavy handed for that perhaps it doesn't help working on trucks and plant for a living


Gary

[garyt]

Yep got a smaller pulley on , so I know what you mean :)

[norton]

I am excited, most of all because I can have LOUVRES stamped into the bonnet!

[norton]

Front arches on.

http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a311/ihatesissycars/F98EAAAB-A658-4680-8531-DF99786C7E87.jpg (http://s14.photobucket.com/user/ihatesissycars/media/F98EAAAB-A658-4680-8531-DF99786C7E87.jpg.html)

http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a311/ihatesissycars/42264E2D-6B7E-47CD-8758-219159ADB1DE.jpg (http://s14.photobucket.com/user/ihatesissycars/media/42264E2D-6B7E-47CD-8758-219159ADB1DE.jpg.html)

I need to get the car out so I can tweak their position but other than powder coating they're done. Just waiting for rear arches now. I've been informed they're on their way as the last pair went missing so these will hopefully be on this week. I m hoping for a nose cone in the near future too which once here I'll then make a scuttle frame and crack on from there.

[garyout]

Looking good mate are they 13inch rims?

Gary

[norton]

Cheers buddy, they are yes.

[garyout]

How wide are the rears be good to see with the rear arches on.

Gary

[norton]

Yes im really looking forward to that day. It'll be nice to be able to visualise its end appearance that bit better, any day now!

[norton]

Hi guys,

could anyone please measure the radius of their bonnets and scuttles please? Also, the height of the scuttles leading and rear edges?

[voucht]

Hi,

I don't know if you will find all the measurements you need there, but here is a link to 3D drawings with main measurements I have done several years ago for Equinox.

https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/0B-iOekLVikV5Q3JNUnQ3NnlmYUk

Hope that will help :)

[norton]

That's perfect, thank you Sylvain!

[norton]

So photobucket has gone all capitalist on us...

Some progress!

http://i.imgur.com/L450usX.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/VvoKa7C.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/sOsKRuu.jpg

[norton]

Considering I had no bodywork available when fitting my engine and so on it all fits together rather well

http://i.imgur.com/XjFDeOt.jpg


http://i.imgur.com/kxoA0fm.jpg

That radiator is in a good position too. I'm hoping to finalise a structure under the scuttle this week ready to house the electrics and then I'll get on with the lights. I'm also going to go with a grp dash as well as I'm feeling lazy. I have an aero screen on order too.

The dash panel I bought it too narrow though and is probably for a locost so I need to decide how to address this. I don't fancy buying another so will either modify this or make my own.

[norton]

And no, I couldn't get any larger pictures...

[garyout]

She's looking mighty fine mate.. soon be wiring time


Gary

[norton]

Shhhhh, I'm trying to forget that!

[dean211277]

Looks really nice and neat. Loving the white and black combo.

[norton]

Thank you, it's really come along in the past month. I should have the dash done and fitted by the end of the week. I'm unsure as to whether I should add some sort of structure behind. I certainly need to add something to fit the ecu and fuse/relay/witchcraft on to.

Should I also add a 'floor' to the underside of the dash/scuttle?

[SteveH1]

I was just gonna mount the hardware on the inside of the scuttle thats on the engine side.

[norton]

I see a lot of people doing that and it makes perfect sense but I don't like the idea of a big empty void or the underside of the scuttle above your knees being open. I need to come up with something that makes it feel more finished.

[SeriesLandy]

I see a lot of people doing that and it makes perfect sense but I don't like the idea of a big empty void or the underside of the scuttle above your knees being open. I need to come up with something that makes it feel more finished.

Mainly for Iva, I put a panel at the bottom of the dash. If you can't touch it, it can't fail. I removed the drivers side after Iva as I needed a little more leg room but left the passengers and added a cigarette and USB socket for satnav and phone.

[Eternal]

seeing as photobucket has gone crazy. Could you show me how you fitted your side panels? I cant decide if i should glue them or rivet. Thanks!

[norton]

I used both, glued along all contact points with maybe 15/20 rivets per side holding them on tight.

[norton]

Some more progress today. The wing brackets are more or less done. I will cover them in a clear heat shrink to dull the edges some more and offer some stone protection.

http://i.imgur.com/VgD9Uzl.jpg?1

Headlights having a trial fit and the grill is painted and bits behind painted black.

http://i.imgur.com/nMG6xeW.jpg?1

The dash panel has also been widened, shaped to fit and given a carbon vinyl wrap

http://i.imgur.com/kZl3WUS.jpg?1

I need to make some decisions about the column. I don't want switch gear or an ignition barrel on it but it seems likely that using the oem MX5 gear will make life a lot easier. One of the stalks will be redundant though as I'm not fitting wipers so that'll bug me.

Has anyone had any success with using a bare column? I understand Caterham use wheel mounted indicator buttons or something?

[garyt]

Blinkstop.co.uk
Does various modules for the button indicators and wireless transmission for removable steering wheels , one has 4 functions and one 8 functions this enables left or right and both together for hazards

[norton]

Thanks Gary, I'll check them out!

I have these for sale if interested.

http://i.imgur.com/tpigr0i.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/uAZ5ZYP.jpg

£40 posted.

http://i.imgur.com/ij0ZNsF.jpg

£20 posted.

[norton]

Woot! Just bagged an Acewell 7659 dash for a fraction of the new cost!

I also found the manufacturer of caterhams bonnet latches and have 4 of those on the way. A nice saving instead of buying from caterham.

[norton]

Can anyone shed any light on what springs I should order with my shocks?

I'm going to use a 12" rear and 14" front. I understand I'll need 250lb rear and 350lb front but, what length spring do I need?

[norton]

Can anyone guide me please on what number of dash switches I'll be needing? I'm not going with a screen on this build.

[garyt]

Are you using stalks on the column ?
On dash hazards, fog, lights
On stalks indicators , dip/main, horn
As bare minimum

[norton]

No everything is to be dash mounted or two column mounted indicator buttons if possible.

[garyt]

Ok if all on the dash then all of the above and they need tell tales on them for indicators are you having a removable steering wheel ? If not you could make a plate to go imbetween the wheel and boss to carry the buttons and use blinkstop for the timing so that they cancel or if on the dad a three position switch on it's side centre being off and left n right with manual cancelling oh and remember all switches to conform to radii requirements unless in the exempt zone behind steering wheel

[norton]

Thanks for the confirmation. The wheel is removable yes. I was thinking a bracket around the column originally but your idea is a neat one, the wiring may be a sod though.

So my list consists of the following. I've added a flash button on there for the rage moments.

1. Side lights/dip beam - switch type - off/on(1)/On(1+2)
2. Main beam - switch type - off/on
3. Main flash - switch type - off/on momentary
4. Rear fog - switch type - off/on
5. Hazards - switch type - off/on
6. Horn - switch type - switch type - off/on momentary
7. Engine start - switch type - off/on momentary
9. Indicators - switch type - on/off/on

Edited to add, I'm just gonna use a toggle switch for the indicators, much easier and cheaper.

[garyt]

Sounds good
Hazards permanent + as must operate with ignition off and fog light +feed from the dipped head light terminal

[norton]

Great stuff thank you again!

[norton]

Bonnet and an aero screen fitted!

http://i.imgur.com/G7f3Oi2.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/Pwj2rlI.jpg

[garyout]

She's looking mighty fine really nice tidy build mate you must be really happy with it.


Gary

[norton]

Thanks Gary, yes I'm getting happier with as each new bit goes on.

Does anyone know if Caterham rear wings/arches have the same mounting flange dimensions as the Haynes arches?

[norton]

So my nice shiny new shocks arrived today which means I can set the geometry up a lot better and hopefully get my head around bump steer.

This brought back an issue I identified a while ago with my rear uprights and their upper bushes. My poly bushes are incredibly stiff when everything is done up tight. By tight I mean I can stand on the hub with no shock fitted and can't budge it downwards at all. With its bolt slackened off all is well so I might look for a better bush if anyone has any suggestions?

I also can't tell you how relieved I was to find my shocks mounts all line up!

[garyout]

Evening mate

Is it the bush in the hub nipping up? I know Talon does a bush for the hub I got a pair for mine not fitted yet though.

Gary

[norton]

They're the ones I have :(

[garyout]

That don't give me much hope although I can't see me being anywhere close anytime soon

Gary

[norton]

Well I've ordered a different make but failing that I may turn some up from Delrin.

[norton]

Air intake.

https://i.imgur.com/03gp8vI.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/wnICvKO.jpg

That filter is complete garbage though and hits the underside of the nose so I have a straight rather than tapered filter on the way.

[norton]

Has anyone had any joy shortening an Escort steering rack?

I've got the rack mounted as low as I can but the amount of bump steer it has seems a bit crazy. That's with the wheels at maximum droop (and I've used inch longer shocks than Saturn originally suggested).

[mopple]

Try to put some washers/shims under the rack and/or to move rack further/back.

[norton]

That'll raise the rack and will further exaggerate the effect. I can't get it any lower.

[norton]

Does anyone know if a motorcycle fuel tank cap would pass IVA?

[norton]

Here is my dash switches!

https://i.imgur.com/5GgNtxo.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/7Z8nbnY.jpg

[norton]

Can anyone educate me a little on fuel tank requirements?

I have a tank using an MX5 sender/pump unit. This has a high pressure fuel feed and a return built in. I also have a filler neck.

Now what do I need for vent/rollover? The has an 8mm barb welded onto it but I'm not sure what use this'll be. I also have a rollver over ball valve that's awaiting fitting.

Now would I be right in saying I only need the ball valve to allow for air displacement when filling, air intake when fuel is used and to then stop fuel spillage should I run out of driving ability?

[Ianr]

That sounds about right. Mine uses the MX5 pump sender with flow and return pipes. I also use the MX5 filler and my 8mm top pipe connects to an 8mm hose with a non return ball valve the hose then loops down to the bottom of the car rather than finish in the boot area. Passed IVA with that system Oct 2016 and been ok on the road since

[norton]

That’s reassuring, thank you.

[norton]

Hey guys, I had a little break form the car after a cold winter and a new job but I'm gearing up to get cracking again.

I've just bought a new compressor for this year as I hope to up my game with spraying components and I'd like to paint the car one day.

Has anyone any experience with home HVLP setups?

I have a Graco gun in mind and will use a gun mounted regulator but I'm unsure what kind of wall mounted filter/water trap/regulator to use and will 1.4 fittings flow enough air?

The gun I want to get requires 7cfm of air and the compressor I have outputs over 14cfm.

[norton]

Hi guys,

I've looked through the IVA manual but have lost the bit that talks about distance between pipes/cable runs and so on.

Can anyone guide me on this topic please? I may have buggered up in the early stage of making the car as I have a bottle neck around the gear lever area and I'm struggling to find a satisfactory path for the electrics that run to the rear of the car.

On a brighter note I'm fairly confident I'll be turning the key in the next few weeks. I've mounted all my electrical hardware and have done all the cable runs asides from the bit above.

I went with a Megasquirt in the end and made use of the CBS wiring fuse/relay box for an easier time. I just need to connect the dots now with cable.

[norton]

Another q, has anyone sourced a good place that will machine/stamp chassis numbers in a way that looks nice? I'd CNC it if I had the resources :(

[norton]

https://i.imgur.com/P4iXEKK.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/cYgdKtI.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/eiuL3Un.jpg

Some more wiring progress today.

[SteveH1]

Looking good
Did you find out the info for the wiring and pipes down the tunnel

[Numplumb]

Hi Your car is looking good, IVA in general construction section it states all wiring should be clipped at 300mm intervals.
What coil packs are you using?.
Do you know if they would be okay for 1800 BP engine?.
Regards Mick.

[norton]

Hey, no I've not confirmed the distance between fuel and electrical runs yet. I've started at the front and I'm working my way back so I have some time to think before I need to overcome it.

The coil packs are from a Yaris and I understand they should work fine with the 1800. Part no is 90919 02239. You can pick them up for about £5-8 each from the bay.

[Numplumb]

Thanks for that information, I will look into that.
I had a look at the way I have run my pipes and loom down the tunnel, I had to offset the wiring loom down and then back up past the gear lever section but the pipes for fuel and brakes cleared without the offset, and I have mine clipped at 200mm.
Regards Mick.

[norton]

Thanks for the info, even if I need to take a silly looking route I’m confident I can do it safely. I’m using all led read lights so I can get away with small cross section wires which combined with the fuel pump/sender and handbrake light wires result in not a lot to wiggle through.

I had a whole day on it today. The engine wiring is all done. I need to figure out a decent rout for my alternator cable and that’s about that. Next is the rear of the car then the birds nest under the dash...

[norton]

Has anyone got any pictures of how they routed their wiring around the rear panel and so on?

Using adhesive pads would be great but we all know they like to detach.

[SeriesLandy]

I used the double sided cable tie bases. Removed the tape with a Stanley and a blob of tiger seal to stick it on. It hasn’t moved in 4 years
adhesive bases (https://www.screwfix.com/p/2-way-adhesive-base-black-19-x-19mm-pack-of-100/93380?tc=FB5&ds_kid=92700019905979030&ds_rl=1248181&ds_rl=1245250&ds_rl=1249481&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIlpTGl5rd2wIVB_EbCh1ApwH9EAQYASAB EgLm6PD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds&dclid=CMuzrJma3dsCFYZh0wod_34EcQ)

[norton]

I presume Iva man was happy with this?

[Ianr]

On mine the wiring is all on the car frame, mostly held with pop riveted cable tie clips and all the electrical fittings come quite close to the frame so I used a 2 or 3 wire quick connector so I can remove body parts. Under the wheel arches I glued the wire in place with a tiger seal substitute. Can't move any of the wires and IVA man seemed to be impressed at the lack of flying wires.

[SeriesLandy]

I presume Iva man was happy with this?

Yeah no mention as far as I can remember at Iva.

[norton]

That's good news then, I'll use some of those for the tricky bits.

The whole front end and engine is now wired or at least the wires are ready to connect up under the dash. I'll finish the rear light mounts later and get started on the back end after. Its getting closer...

[norton]

I've finally got the front and rear components of the car wired and now its time to connect the mess under the dash.


I have a Thatcham approved immobiliser as one form of security, could anyone suggest what will pass as the second?

[Ianr]

The steering lock - or - even a key on an ignition switch will do

[SeriesLandy]

Mine has the steering lock and ignition as the two forms.
I think you may find the immobiliser has to be ‘professionally’ installed. I added mine after Iva.
If you’re in the area you are welcome to have a look at my car.

[norton]

Yeah I did away with all the column switch gear and ignition barrel so my steering lock no longer exists. I have a dash mounted ignition barrel from a bike that’s bolted to the column support frame. Hopefully that counts as the 2nd item.

Re the immobiliser, ah, I’m not sure I want someone else messing with my electrics. If it’s a sticking point I may ask an installer to look over my attempt and see if they’ll sign it off as is.

[SeriesLandy]

Yeah I know what you mean with someone else fiddling with your electrics.
I’m pretty sure that a letter (invoice) from said ‘professional’ would suffice as proof.
My chassis material was new but the company went out of business when I needed the invoice for the registration. So I just found their old address and had an invoice.

[norton]

Chassis material?

[SeriesLandy]

I think what I’m trying to say is just make an invoice from a ‘professional’. I had to make one for the chassis steel as the company no longer existed and the original invoice didn’t say ‘new’ on it.

[norton]

Ah I see! Also, you have to prove the origins of your steel!?!?!????

[Ianr]

Yes - if you look at the thread by CTW he had an awful time getting registered - microsoft word helps clarify things no end

[Ianr]

Ooops - CTWV50 I meant

[SeriesLandy]

Ah I see! Also, you have to prove the origins of your steel!?!?!????
Not just the steel, you have to prove where all the major components came from if you want an age related plate. Either from a single donor vehicle or new.
CTWV50 problems start at post 583 (http://forums.haynes.co.uk/showthread.php?t=6206&page=15)

Build up inspection report (http://toyne.org.uk/docs-reg.html)
http://toyne.org.uk/images/v627-1.jpg

[norton]

The major components I can prove, no problem but I may need to acquire multiple invoices form the various more minor components. The eBay acc I used for the majority of purchases early on went tits up over a dispute and IU can't access the invoices for many of the parts.

[RandyBMC]

Very nice build - I'm glad you kept it!

I am in the middle of working out the coolant reroute with no heater. I see you have the overflow routed into that loop. Where does your line go?

Heater at the back of the block to the overflow, then overflow to the lower mix manifold (the one you flipped around to face forward)?

Thanks!!

[norton]

Hey, the small bypass goes from manifold to lower outlet and the coolant tank connects to the reroute spacer.

[Ianr]

The major components I can prove, no problem but I may need to acquire multiple invoices form the various more minor components. The eBay acc I used for the majority of purchases early on went tits up over a dispute and IU can't access the invoices for many of the parts.

Just remember a word processor is your best friend :-)

[norton]

Yeah, my morales are very flexible so this shouldn’t be a problem!

My spare time has dried up but I’ve managed 5 minutes here and there and the under dash wiring is creeping forward. I’m only two wires away from being able to crank it over. I do need to pop the inlet manifold off though to get my chassis no onto the frame somewhere. My previous impatience is biting back!

[norton]

Quick question about the wiring for my mk1 mx5 alternator.


It has 3 wires, one the main feed to the battery and two others in a multi plug.
I understand one will be a permanent 12v feed for the exciter circuit but the other?

I found this picture.

https://i.imgur.com/zKiLeUK.png


Which includes a warning lamp however my digi dash can monitor its own power supply and put the light on at any voltage I determine so I wouldn't need that.


So is it fair to say, assuming I've understood the picture I need two 12v inputs (one switched with ignition and the obvious main power output?

[norton]

Another problem if someone could take a look please.

The CBS fuse/relay module won't let me supply the hazard light relay with 12v when ign is off with my ignition switch config.

Will the (crude) diagram below work? I have it wired nearly this way at the moment except the hazard relay is on the same power source as the regular indicator relay and there is no diode.

I can make a direct to battery 12v supply to the relay without issue but what I don't want is that then somehow powering up the rest of the electrics via the indicator circuit if I were to say operate the hazard switch with the indicator switch engaged to either side hence the diode.

https://i.imgur.com/Fb2ytjW.png

[Numplumb]

Are you using the mx5 flasher unit?.
The original flasher is fed from two separate fuses, hazard fuse which is hot at all times and meter fuse which is hot in start and run.
Regards Mick.

[norton]

No I’m using my own loom and a fuse/relay board from car builders solutions. I need to reconfigure it thoughwith a separate permanent feed for the hazards but want to be sure my suggestion above is correct.

[Numplumb]

I can't read your writing on your diagram.
Have you googled flasher unit circuits and hazard switches? I think that you have to supply most hazard switches from both a permanent and a switched with ignition supply, the switch is fed via the ignition supply when off which feeds straight through to the indicators and when the hazard switch is turned on it isolates that supply and feeds via the permanent one if that makes any sense.
Regards Mick.

[norton]

The module https://www.carbuildersolutions.com/uk/cbs-12-circuit-wiring-module has two simple flasher relays with a single feed and output each. One is for the indicators and the other for the hazard function. One is fed by a hot when ign is on feed and the other for the hazards I need to rig up with a direct to battery feed but I need to do that without energising the rest of the circuits hence the crude diagram. I’m awaretypical hazard switches and relays can be much more complex than this but this is what I have.

[norton]

I built a diffuser.

https://i.imgur.com/EbPeuU3.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/qg1ikyj.jpg

And went for some better wheels. My car was too low wit the 185/6/13 tyres.

https://i.imgur.com/Ns7cqEm.jpg

I have the hazards workng along wth all the other body electrics. I think I know what to do with the excter wire now which I'll get to. Te megasquirt is nearly sorted too but atm i have no crank signal. I'm just waiting for osme resistors to arrive so I can add a pullup to the crank sensors signal wire. opefully that'll get iti working.

[norton]

Well, it’s running! It’s also moved twice, yes TWICE under its own steam :)

It’s a crude configuration without any o2 sensor right now but at least I no longer have to keep pushing the bugger when I want to turn it around. I’ve also finished the rear cover using a black mohair fabric. Sewing isn’t as much fun as welding but I’ve now popped my sewing machine cherry.

[garyout]

Another milestone I bet that's a wicked feeling something I cant wait for.

Have you got rubber on them new rims yet? any pics to share?


Gary

[norton]

Yeah, it was a good feeling but the end still feels like a million hours away!

No pics at the moment as it looks no different really. I do have tyres now, some Nankang NS2-R’s which will do the job nicely. I don’t think my 1.6 will challenge them much.

I was reworking the wing brackets today and I’m doing so needed to tack them together in place. Turns out my brake hose was the path of least resistance between torch and ground so that went up in smoke!!!! You live and learn.... hopefully voucht still makes them so I can get a replacement.