Noob with a new mx5 Saturn build.

[norton]

Fast forward to the last post for sale details.

Hi everyone,

About 4 weeks ago I found the Haynes Roadster book then 3 weeks ago I started my build!

I've gone for the Saturn mx5 plans and I've been making nearly everything from scratch myself.

http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a311/ihatesissycars/55D21A93-7F38-4EE0-855F-598D0986233A.jpg (http://s14.photobucket.com/user/ihatesissycars/media/55D21A93-7F38-4EE0-855F-598D0986233A.jpg.html)

http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a311/ihatesissycars/3EEA676C-5AD4-419D-8F66-4E4570D9EAFE_3.jpg (http://s14.photobucket.com/user/ihatesissycars/media/3EEA676C-5AD4-419D-8F66-4E4570D9EAFE_3.jpg.html)

http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a311/ihatesissycars/5E37AA8C-F3EA-4738-BCE2-EB75E87A5109_1.jpg (http://s14.photobucket.com/user/ihatesissycars/media/5E37AA8C-F3EA-4738-BCE2-EB75E87A5109_1.jpg.html)

http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a311/ihatesissycars/7580C1E0-6073-4448-A240-B746F180902F.jpg (http://s14.photobucket.com/user/ihatesissycars/media/7580C1E0-6073-4448-A240-B746F180902F.jpg.html)

I hate the front frame...

[norton]

http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a311/ihatesissycars/30932DE6-3FF9-4EA6-8787-2A2C9E37E66A_1.jpg (http://s14.photobucket.com/user/ihatesissycars/media/30932DE6-3FF9-4EA6-8787-2A2C9E37E66A_1.jpg.html)

http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a311/ihatesissycars/330F75F7-7433-4C10-87A1-B37308F97E68.jpg (http://s14.photobucket.com/user/ihatesissycars/media/330F75F7-7433-4C10-87A1-B37308F97E68.jpg.html)

http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a311/ihatesissycars/36558F87-F4E5-470A-BDCD-FF57FD9441A9.jpg (http://s14.photobucket.com/user/ihatesissycars/media/36558F87-F4E5-470A-BDCD-FF57FD9441A9.jpg.html)

http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a311/ihatesissycars/5C134735-B88F-498A-8506-A288744EABC2_1.jpg (http://s14.photobucket.com/user/ihatesissycars/media/5C134735-B88F-498A-8506-A288744EABC2_1.jpg.html)

[K4KEV]

Hi Norton whats your proper name and where you at? great to see a newb since it has been a while since anyone has started a build , look forward to watching your roadster take shape and looking like very good progress so far dont forget there is a plethora of info on here so ask if not sure. gud on yer so far bud.

[norton]

Cheers Kev, I can't stop!!

My names Gavin, I'll add some details in my sig in a bit and yes, I've a mass of questions!

Latest.

http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a311/ihatesissycars/4CFF1E0C-F1DF-4C26-BD2D-72B3E02B98E0.jpg (http://s14.photobucket.com/user/ihatesissycars/media/4CFF1E0C-F1DF-4C26-BD2D-72B3E02B98E0.jpg.html)

http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a311/ihatesissycars/C792ABFC-2320-456D-B0F6-554A434680D8.jpg (http://s14.photobucket.com/user/ihatesissycars/media/C792ABFC-2320-456D-B0F6-554A434680D8.jpg.html)

I'm waiting for the suspension brackets before I can complete the rear end. I've welded what you see together which was a bit naughty but it's still dimensionally good. My table sagged a bit meaning one of the lower side to side chassis rails bowed down when clamped up however removing the unwanted section which blocks the trans has helped.

Next up is the remaining plates then the suspension arms. Hopefully the brackets will arrive soon :(

[Numplumb]

Hi Gavin and welcome 1 of your photos shows TR5 which will be in the way of the inlet manifold if your going to use MX5 engine

Regards Mick.

[norton]

Hi Mick and thank you, yes I got carried away. It's gone now though.

So, first question, will 13" wheels fit the mx5 running gear?

I intend to use the 1.6 brakes but if anything bigger will fit I'm all ears.

[Stot]

Hi Mick and thank you, yes I got carried away. It's gone now though.

So, first question, will 13" wheels fit the mx5 running gear?

I intend to use the 1.6 brakes but if anything bigger will fit I'm all ears.

Hi,

It depends on the wheels. Mine has 13" steelies on it, 1.6 running gear and brakes.

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-qiBZnxZ4MQ8/VU4NgNuIKEI/AAAAAAAAMMU/fcz68TzOhzs/w800/Vents3.jpg

Not sure 13" alloys would fit as they tend to have a thicker rim material. Heres the clearances on my steelies.

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-LHJou3hqW5g/VFinCRKrt2I/AAAAAAAALhE/BiArlo8y-2c/w800/13Wheels2.jpg
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-DRjShn_MrtA/VFinAM9SH8I/AAAAAAAALg8/nvKh0WlIAZk/w800/13Wheels4.jpg
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-i_gq-JJN5j4/VFinG4tCydI/AAAAAAAALhU/piOwrreZiio/w800/13Wheels6.jpg

Cheers
Stot

[norton]

Thanks Stot,

Hmm that's promising then. I thought the rear lower arm would get in the way so I'm glad to see it might not.

[norton]

I made a start on the steering column however it's become very clear I need to do this with the seat in place.

http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a311/ihatesissycars/38092403-145A-4998-BF58-65E2864AEDB6.jpg (http://s14.photobucket.com/user/ihatesissycars/media/38092403-145A-4998-BF58-65E2864AEDB6.jpg.html)

http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a311/ihatesissycars/46CD54BE-274A-4B60-8E21-9AAEB9488957.jpg (http://s14.photobucket.com/user/ihatesissycars/media/46CD54BE-274A-4B60-8E21-9AAEB9488957.jpg.html)

http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a311/ihatesissycars/BE22B4FE-1D48-4CF8-9020-5DBE8E6EC715.jpg (http://s14.photobucket.com/user/ihatesissycars/media/BE22B4FE-1D48-4CF8-9020-5DBE8E6EC715.jpg.html)

Is it looking about right so far?

I'll get the rack fitted tomorrow to help the process.

[twinturbo]

Speedy progress, well done!

Have you got a plan for the body work?

TT

[garyt]

Welcome, that's good progress so far like everyone said don't be afraid to ask if you have any questions
Gary

[SeriesLandy]

Looking great so far, you've really cracked on with the build.
Take a look at the faq in my sig, if you haven't already as there are some really useful tips and answered questions in there

[Ianr]

I made a start on the steering column however it's become very clear I need to do this with the seat in place.


Is it looking about right so far?

I'll get the rack fitted tomorrow to help the process.

I've just gone through this process and found it important to have the pedals and rack in to get everything to fit (and the seats). That said I have retained all the pedals, brake & clutch cylinders and the servo all top hung as in the MX5, this may not be the same if you are mounting the book pedal arrangement mounted on the floor level
Ian

[norton]

Thanks for the feedback guys and the links, much appreciated.

I'm pushing to do as much as poss atm as we're due our first in September. I'm sure everything will grind to a halt then.

A couple of hours spent today.

http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a311/ihatesissycars/906A5CEA-227E-4D1E-9C94-A750380DA544.jpg (http://s14.photobucket.com/user/ihatesissycars/media/906A5CEA-227E-4D1E-9C94-A750380DA544.jpg.html)

http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a311/ihatesissycars/B6EE69A0-9E9F-4A85-9D31-23676B879A7B.jpg (http://s14.photobucket.com/user/ihatesissycars/media/B6EE69A0-9E9F-4A85-9D31-23676B879A7B.jpg.html)

I found this quite stressful due to wanting to achieve perfect dimensions. As it turned out it was bang on in all but one which was out by a mm. Using enough amps generated a ridiculous amount of heat however it's penetrated well.

[CTWV50]

Hi Mick and thank you, yes I got carried away. It's gone now though.

So, first question, will 13" wheels fit the mx5 running gear?

I intend to use the 1.6 brakes but if anything bigger will fit I'm all ears.

Yes they will I run pro 1.2 alloys with 1.8 brakes, the offset I can't remember off hand. Quick build so far!:cool:

[Rosco]

Coming along nicely

[norton]

13" wheels AND 1.8 brakes! That's that sorted then, thank you!

I've got a solid 8 hours in the garage tomorrow so I plan to have all front arms done. The rears will come next weekend then I can hopefully, if my brackets arrive drop it on the floor...

[dubzter]

looking good and impressive build speed so far.

[norton]

Another arm done. I've also gone to town tidying the main chassis and welding more plates on.

I'm still waiting for my suspension brackets to arrive, I can't finish the rear end until then.

How has everyone gotten welding inside the really tight angles on some of the chassis rails?

[Davidbolam]

Welcome to the forum and a nice looking build you have started there. If you have any questions re the mx5 build just ask.

Where are you based?

[flyerncle]

Nip the shroud of the Mig torch in a vice gently .

[norton]

Hi David, I'm in Hampshire.

I'm using a tig welder with a tiny cup however it's not enough. The sides of the tungston arc out to the metal rather than the tip.

[Stot]

Hi David, I'm in Hampshire.

I'm using a tig welder with a tiny cup however it's not enough. The sides of the tungston arc out to the metal rather than the tip.

Does your tig allow you to MMA/Stick/Arc weld, many do? I Arc welded those bits.

Cheers
Stot

[norton]

Yes it does, good idea, I'll give it a go.

[SeriesLandy]

Hi David, I'm in Hampshire.

I'm using a tig welder with a tiny cup however it's not enough. The sides of the tungston arc out to the metal rather than the tip.

Whereabouts, being nosey?

[norton]

Not far from you. I don't give out my exact location publicly because of my job.

[norton]

3 down, too many to go!

http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a311/ihatesissycars/16992084-14BF-43FF-BF90-1AE39F2B52E7.jpg (http://s14.photobucket.com/user/ihatesissycars/media/16992084-14BF-43FF-BF90-1AE39F2B52E7.jpg.html)

http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a311/ihatesissycars/62C0B41F-FC28-46B6-B329-76AB2A2AEB43.jpg (http://s14.photobucket.com/user/ihatesissycars/media/62C0B41F-FC28-46B6-B329-76AB2A2AEB43.jpg.html)

I'll have the other front arm built tomorrow along with a jig for either the rear upper or lower arm.

My suspension brackets will finally be with me next week meaning I can finish its back end and hopefully have it sat on its wheels. Then it's engine and diff time. That's the milestone I'm aiming for. I'll slow down after that.

[norton]

I'm in a conundrum again about the registration path I go down.

I have all mx5 mechanicals inc engine and box but from various sources, not one car. Will I still be able to get an age related plate?

If not I might pursue my ultimate intended incarnation and go for a duratec and a Q plate. What to do?

Help!

[Ianr]

The way I read it is you need two major components from one car to claim an age related plate. there is a list of the acceptable components which I don't have to hand at the moment, someone else will I am sure. the components are sometimes obvious - engine, gearbox, axles - and sometimes less so - wiring loom - do you have any two components that you can relate to one car?

[norton]

Not to one car no. Balls. This means either sourcing an engine and box from one car or accepting a Q plate and going for a duratec I guess.

[PorkChop]

At the end of the day, does it really matter to you?

IMO, the car is still going to perform the same regardless of what's written on the number plate and Q plated kits tend to have no stigma attached unlike Q plated production cars...

And I think it wouldn't be good enough to have 2 plus major parts from one car, you would need proof of it, e.g. a donor V5.

[norton]

This is the debate forming in my mind, so what? It would make life a lot easier to go for the intended end result straight away. I'll give it some more thought. Thank you for the input.

[norton]

http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a311/ihatesissycars/5955AABC-0E5F-4825-B520-C63E2401E8B5.jpg (http://s14.photobucket.com/user/ihatesissycars/media/5955AABC-0E5F-4825-B520-C63E2401E8B5.jpg.html)

Nearly all done. Annoyingly the last arm I thought I finished went wonky so I need to correct that. Also still waiting for the suspension brackets which should turn up any day now I hope.

I'm off next week which should give me the time to get it on its wheels and the engine, box and diff mounted too.

[SteveH]

i want a set of them please :-)

[norton]

Give me five million pounds as that's what it'll take to get me making more. Hated it.

[CTWV50]

Not to one car no. Balls. This means either sourcing an engine and box from one car or accepting a Q plate and going for a duratec I guess.

You need 8 points to get an age related plate. You really don't need anything from the original car and the engine has identity but is only 1 point! Gearboxes, axles, transmission, steering etc have 2 points and no identity. The big point scorer is *NEW* chassis which is 5 points!

"Get an age-related registration number
You can apply for an age-related number if you can prove you’ve used 2 original major parts along with:

*. a new monocoque bodyshell, chassis or frame from a specialist kit manufacturer
*. an altered chassis, monocoque bodyshell or frame from the original vehicle

The registration number will be based on the age of the original vehicle.

Your vehicle must pass the relevant type approval test to get an age-related registration number."

https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/274/18371331276_23ab050678_z.jpg

[mgglep]

Also if you have a q plate the mot is slightly different and easier for things like emmisions breaks etc etc

[Ianr]

You need 8 points to get an age related plate. You really don't need anything from the original car and the engine has identity but is only 1 point! Gearboxes, axles, transmission, steering etc have 2 points and no identity. The big point scorer is *NEW* chassis which is 5 points!

"Get an age-related registration number
You can apply for an age-related number if you can prove you’ve used 2 original major parts along with:

*. a new monocoque bodyshell, chassis or frame from a specialist kit manufacturer
*. an altered chassis, monocoque bodyshell or frame from the original vehicle

The registration number will be based on the age of the original vehicle.

Your vehicle must pass the relevant type approval test to get an age-related registration number."

https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/274/18371331276_23ab050678_z.jpg

Thanks for this Chris - wish I had known it before I bought my failed build, looks like a Q plate for me - unless I can get some cooperation from the original builder of my chassis

[CTWV50]

Thanks for this Chris - wish I had known it before I bought my failed build, looks like a Q plate for me - unless I can get some cooperation from the original builder of my chassis

I'm not telling you to be naughty but word has some great invoice templates. ;) You have PM BTW. (private messages) top right of this page.

[CTWV50]

Saying all of the above I was quite prepared to take a Q as it didn't really bother me but when i found the above info i just thought I'd try an age related application and see what happened and it worked. ;)

https://www.gov.uk/vehicle-registration/radically-altered-vehicles

[davedew]

To be able to get an age related number plate I believe you need the V5 of the donor vehicle.

All my donor parts came from one vehicle, but because it was an insurance write off the V5 had been surrendered.

I ended up with a Q plate, but like you say visual only emissions come MOT time.

[norton]

Thank you for the assistance chaps.

I am going to go for an age related plate. I'm going to get the complete running mx5 engine from a local car being broken. I can have copies of the v5 and this is the same car I got my brakes and other bits from which should get me over the points threshold. If it fails then, I tried my best and will focus on the benefits of the Q plate. The duratec can wait as Mrs M pointed out I'm going to be a dad in a few months which won't mix with expensive and time consuming duratec installs!

[davedew]

Needs to be original V5.
If car is already registered as scrap, I think you will have problems.

[norton]

It's registration hasn't changed but will in the future once it's been broken up.

[metal matt]

[QUOTE]The duratec can wait as Mrs M pointed out I'm going to be a dad in a few months which won't mix with expensive and time consuming duratec installs![/QUOTE

I built my chassis some 6 years ago maybe longer then it was getting in the way of starting a family. So I ended up stopping my build for a while until I could afford it again and that took until last year when I pulled my chassis back out a little over a year ago. But your build is getting on with a good start

Happy building

https://www.flickr.com/photos/124541083@N02/

[norton]

I don't think my impatience could wait 6 years!

Could someone kindly confirm if this polo radiators so suitable for my build using a standard 1.6 mx5 motor please?

http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&alt=web&id=281632515387

[metal matt]

I've got a polo rad on mine and iv got the 1.8 but I am very tempted on getting an alloy rad

https://www.flickr.com/photos/124541083@N02/

[voucht]

I know Polo radiators have been fitted on both Sierra and MX5 based Haynes Roadster with no problem.

Another popular alternative is the Mercedes 190 radiator. It is thick, compact, and perfectly fits vertically under the nose cone. That is the one I use, as wall as many other builders, and with my Sierra 2.0i DOHC, there is absolutely no overheating problems, it does the job perfectly. I definitely advise this radiator.

Good luck with your build :)

[norton]

Ah the 190 rad sounds cool(!). I'll see about tracking one down and giving it a go. Thanks guys.

Matt, could I ask who made your petrol tank please? I'd like to use the mx5 sender unit like yours.

[garyt]

hi speak to k4kev on here he had a couple for sale recently he makes them, well tidy

[Stot]

Try and buy a quality 190 radiator if you go that way. I bought the cheapest I could find and its not up to the job on my car as its a round bar radiator and not a flat bar one. Flat bar are more efficient and I think that's what causing me to be up over 100 most of the time.

Mine is a MX5 with Turbo and inter cooler in front but still with a descent rad it should still be high 80s low 90s most of the time.

Cheers
Stot

[Davidbolam]

I don't think my impatience could wait 6 years!

Could someone kindly confirm if this polo radiators so suitable for my build using a standard 1.6 mx5 motor please?

http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&alt=web&id=281632515387

Hi, that is the radiator I used on my build and I don't have any problems.

Kev makes the tanks for mx5 cars and they are perfect. And ver reasonable as well.

David

[TSM Locost]

I don't think my impatience could wait 6 years!

Could someone kindly confirm if this polo radiators so suitable for my build using a standard 1.6 mx5 motor please?

http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&alt=web&id=281632515387

Std polo rad is 380mm core width, my 2lt zetec has never had any cooling issues and the fan only cuts in when stationary, there is a golf rad 50mm wider same height and thickness if you are concerned, advanced radiators sell them code VW334 @ £28.03 free delivery and very good quality. i don't see any point in paying for a 1 off expensive rad when you can get a std replacement off the shelf from parts warehouses with next day delivery at a fraction of the alloy one.

http://www.adrad.co.uk/prices/prices.php?search=VW334

[metal matt]

I made my tank myself then I had a friend weld it up for my

[norton]

Money is tight so I went for the new Polo rad. I don't see me achieving my dream engine for some time either so it'll do for a long time. Thank you for the input guys, very appreciated.

Ps, I pm'd Kev - thanks again for steering me in the correct direction :D

[K4KEV]

The polo rad is man enough for the job Gavin...I'm running a 1.8 turbo stage 2 tuned and my temp gauge sits quite happily in the normal no matter how I drive, maybe goes up a little when sitting in traffic but then the fan cuts in and back down it goes

[norton]

That sounds ideal, very reassuring!

Is yours the roadster I've seen on YouTube giving Atoms some stick?

[K4KEV]

Nah... but it is bluddy damn quick as a few nerds (north east roadster dudes)on here can testify

[norton]

Some more done today.

http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a311/ihatesissycars/C77F84FF-3483-4004-BD57-8B1BD823908B.jpg (http://s14.photobucket.com/user/ihatesissycars/media/C77F84FF-3483-4004-BD57-8B1BD823908B.jpg.html)

http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a311/ihatesissycars/C4AC95E9-B155-4ACD-A1B7-F7C01B4DFF25.jpg (http://s14.photobucket.com/user/ihatesissycars/media/C4AC95E9-B155-4ACD-A1B7-F7C01B4DFF25.jpg.html)

The rear is nearly done, just the fuel tank/rear panel support bar to go.

Tomorrows job.

http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a311/ihatesissycars/EA9AA656-5678-4112-A92D-43C167879C42.jpg (http://s14.photobucket.com/user/ihatesissycars/media/EA9AA656-5678-4112-A92D-43C167879C42.jpg.html)

I'm hoping it'll be on its wheels then. I want rid of the table and the chassis up on stands.

[norton]

I did trial fit the rear arms today. The bushes are concerning me as they're very tight. I've verified the crush tubes are all 44mm length and the larger outer bush housing tubes are dimensionally correct as well. The suspension brackets are bang on to.

When's everything is all cranked up they become very stiff. I've lubed them with copper grease as per several web found suggestions.

Maybe my expectations are out of line with reality.

[vmax1974]

They are quite tight and stiff on my car if all else fails shave a few thow off the bush

[PorkChop]

Stiff arms seem like a bad idea to me, wouldn't you be essentially preloading the wishbones?

Mine rotate pretty freely between thumb and forefinger, they're dry assembled at the moment.

It would be worth checking whether the bushes are binding on the mounts, there's probably going to be witness marks if they are.

[Rosco]

looking nice mate! seems like ages ago when i was at your stage, about 7 months ago and im nearly ready for powder coat!

[TalonMotorFabrication]

I think the whole crush tube,bracket and polybush thing needs putting in to context some what here.
The polybushes rotate around the crush tubes and rub against the sides of the suspension brackets and every thing is new when you are assembling the wishbones or moving them by hand you only exert may be 30-40lbs of force, a fully built 550-600kg car and 250-300lbs springs will find it much easier to move. You need to take normal wear and tear in to account before you introduce fore and aft movement in to the wishbones by shaving bits before they have had a chance to bed in on the road. The polybushes on these cars are seen as consumable and they will bed in after a 150-200 mile shake down, after 2500-3000 miles they will need replacing.

[norton]

Ah yes, I understand the weight of the car vs weight transfer, bumps etc will likely overcome the friction in the bush however, these bushes are bulging out of their intended home, something is less than ideal here I'm sure. At this rate I could probably run the shocks without any damping!

[TalonMotorFabrication]

When I bend my suspension brackets they end up being wider at the bottom and lean inwards at the top, try flaring them out a little and refitting the wishbones. The other thing I would look at is the inner diameter of the bush tubes, inner edges of the bush tubes have they got a lead in chamfer to them and are you using a vice to assemble them?

[norton]

I'm using a vice yes. The inner tube and brackets measure up perfectly. That chamfer is missing though and I can see they're not sitting right up against the housing tube. Out with the file then :(

[CTWV50]

Ah yes, I understand the weight of the car vs weight transfer, bumps etc will likely overcome the friction in the bush however, these bushes are bulging out of their intended home, something is less than ideal here I'm sure. At this rate I could probably run the shocks without any damping!

I dry assembled mine initially and the stiction on the rear was terrible. After the IVA I disassembled the lot and reassembled with teflon grease. The rear is nice and smooth now. If your bushes are buldging then you might want to check your tolerances or maybe there's too much grease in there?

[norton]

I've worked the outer tubes on one arm to ensure the bushes fit perfectly then measured the id of the bush. 18.5mm? The crush tubes are 19mm. Looks like I have an interference fit! The outer tubes are the correct I'd so they're not compressing the bush just gripping it.

Are my bushes no good?

[TalonMotorFabrication]

I think the whole crush tube,bracket and polybush thing needs putting in to context some what here.
The polybushes rotate around the crush tubes and rub against the sides of the suspension brackets and every thing is new when you are assembling the wishbones or moving them by hand you only exert may be 30-40lbs of force, a fully built 550-600kg car and 250-300lbs springs will find it much easier to move. You need to take normal wear and tear in to account before you introduce fore and aft movement in to the wishbones by shaving bits before they have had a chance to bed in on the road. The polybushes on these cars are seen as consumable and they will bed in after a 150-200 mile shake down, after 2500-3000 miles they will need replacing.

Don't forget you don't have any weight acting on the bushes yet, the weight of the car acting on the wishbones and polybushes will soon compress the top quarter section of the bushes.

[norton]

Good point, persevere with these?

[norton]

Does the Saturn run a shorter shock than the standard book chassis?

[CTWV50]

Does the Saturn run a shorter shock than the standard book chassis?

Yes 12" rear, 13-14" front.

[norton]

RELIEF!!!!! I thought I had made a colossal f@@k up then! I was sat there moving the hub up through its range of motion and thought it'd never take a 14" shock, thank you!

[CTWV50]

RELIEF!!!!! I thought I had made a colossal f@@k up then! I was sat there moving the hub up through its range of motion and thought it'd never take a 14" shock, thank you!

Haha! Depending on how much steering lock you want you can run a 13-14" shock at the front. I'd only tack the shock mounts on to the lower front wishbones so you can adjust the position to suit the droop/steering lock you want. Reason being is there is an issue with the steering rod ends touching the front of the lower wishbone on full lock and full droop with 14" dampers! People normally get around it by limiting the rack but I went for the hard option to keep a tight turning circle.

[norton]

I'll look out for that, thanks for the heads up :cool:

Here's where I'm at.

http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a311/ihatesissycars/CFD4F0B5-1FEC-465A-942C-74FEBD79F711.jpg (http://s14.photobucket.com/user/ihatesissycars/media/CFD4F0B5-1FEC-465A-942C-74FEBD79F711.jpg.html)

http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a311/ihatesissycars/C78BD164-D116-45A1-B31F-31C3FA217C66.jpg (http://s14.photobucket.com/user/ihatesissycars/media/C78BD164-D116-45A1-B31F-31C3FA217C66.jpg.html)

The diff was a squeeze. I'll lose paint shoe horsing that in again.

I'll hopefully finish the front shock mounts tomorrow. I'll either then start on the engine mountings or the front diff mount.

[norton]

http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a311/ihatesissycars/5ABEBAD0-C63D-4901-86B9-9E656EAE3582_1.jpg (http://s14.photobucket.com/user/ihatesissycars/media/5ABEBAD0-C63D-4901-86B9-9E656EAE3582_1.jpg.html)

http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a311/ihatesissycars/0BAF3064-3273-4E57-82BD-C8BC84B9DA24.jpg (http://s14.photobucket.com/user/ihatesissycars/media/0BAF3064-3273-4E57-82BD-C8BC84B9DA24.jpg.html)

The front shock mounts are now tacked on as is the rack mount.

There's no spacers between rack and mount here but, the rack is too close to the lower arms.

http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a311/ihatesissycars/E16F905E-8D96-45E1-9AED-CC4F8781315E.jpg (http://s14.photobucket.com/user/ihatesissycars/media/E16F905E-8D96-45E1-9AED-CC4F8781315E.jpg.html)

[CTWV50]

Yes I used some aluminium to raise the rack as the gaiters where rubbing on the wishbones which is an IVA fail.

[norton]

I'll do that this week.

Next decision, ally or steel for the floor?

[norton]

Ok so I thought I'd bugger my back today so what better way than moving an engine...

http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a311/ihatesissycars/FE346B46-208D-4371-8F93-4061416DAC3F.jpg (http://s14.photobucket.com/user/ihatesissycars/media/FE346B46-208D-4371-8F93-4061416DAC3F.jpg.html)

http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a311/ihatesissycars/C7FA3FDE-B389-4100-8FB7-1381C53C0DC9.jpg (http://s14.photobucket.com/user/ihatesissycars/media/C7FA3FDE-B389-4100-8FB7-1381C53C0DC9.jpg.html)

http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a311/ihatesissycars/3036555A-47E1-4260-B795-49927F8DD5F1.jpg (http://s14.photobucket.com/user/ihatesissycars/media/3036555A-47E1-4260-B795-49927F8DD5F1.jpg.html)

It's sump hangs roughly 40mm below the chassis and the bottom edge of the bell housing is about 5mm below the chassis.

Without the bonnet or scuttle to refer to it looks wrong? And is the gearbox not inline with the crank line?

Part of me wants to notch the pedal box area to move the engine back further which the clutch arm is preventing.

[norton]

Underside.

http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a311/ihatesissycars/6987CF9F-2860-49BC-9976-E46BCCCF5727.jpg (http://s14.photobucket.com/user/ihatesissycars/media/6987CF9F-2860-49BC-9976-E46BCCCF5727.jpg.html)

[garyt]

hi yep there a bit heavy :) that looks about right for and aft cant remember how far mine hangs down, I'm using the gillham bonnet with the large bulge and offset the engine to the n/s as the plenum was catching the bonnet.
check out my build pics or if you want I can take some measurements to give you some datums
Gary

[Davidbolam]

hi yep there a bit heavy :) that looks about right for and aft cant remember how far mine hangs down, I'm using the gillham bonnet with the large bulge and offset the engine to the n/s as the plenum was catching the bonnet.
check out my build pics or if you want I can take some measurements to give you some datums
Gary

If you look at skov's build diary there is a set of measurements on there.

My sump is either 40 or 50mm under the chassis rails and I haven't had any problems (yet)

David

P.s nice build

[norton]

Thanks guys. My Ocd wants to keep the engine central but I have no body work to test fit so I'll try make the engine mounts future proof for now. I'm offtuesday so I'll have app at making the mounts.

If the engine was central would the mounts be a mirror image of each other?

[Ianr]

I've had the same issue as you, with the engine as far back as poss then the clutch fouls. I've moved mine forward so the clutch has clearance, I'm glad I did. I have used part of the MX5 bulkhead and pedal assembly for my brake, clutch and throttle pedal set up. I have kept the MX5 servo as well. It gives me about 7mm clearance between the brake master and the intake manifold. Just enough I hope. (I've also used the steering column as well). I have Equinox bodywork and have about 5-8 mm clearance over the top of the engine with the engine mounted similar to yours (ish) with about 40 - 50 mm sump protruding, again ish as I haven't measured it exactly.
Ian

[Rosco]

http://www.haynes.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?t=13563

This should help you pal

[CTWV50]

If you look at skov's build diary there is a set of measurements on there.

My sump is either 40 or 50mm under the chassis rails and I haven't had any problems (yet)

David

P.s nice build

Agree with this, I was worried about the clearance but it only appears to be those tiny short speed bumps the ones about 12" wide, that are an issue.

[norton]

Thanks for the advice and links guys. Armed with that knowledge I was able to fit the engine today.

http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a311/ihatesissycars/D2529536-2406-4B82-A4D6-83A57B1FC911.jpg (http://s14.photobucket.com/user/ihatesissycars/media/D2529536-2406-4B82-A4D6-83A57B1FC911.jpg.html)

http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a311/ihatesissycars/10938CB9-76E7-47C9-ADD1-EAC649E9F84B.jpg (http://s14.photobucket.com/user/ihatesissycars/media/10938CB9-76E7-47C9-ADD1-EAC649E9F84B.jpg.html)

I couldn't find a completely satisfactory way of mounting the gearbox so the end result is a bit shocking...

http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a311/ihatesissycars/B7E79F6D-BE4B-41D9-B085-877110E7CC81.jpg (http://s14.photobucket.com/user/ihatesissycars/media/B7E79F6D-BE4B-41D9-B085-877110E7CC81.jpg.html)

The seats are ready to go in, I'm just waiting for some threaded inserts I need to weld in to the cross/support bars. Hopefully tomorrow.

The tank support/rear panel frame is tacked together and I've made a start on the steering column. I'm pushing to get the chassis complete as soon as possible before our little one arrives but I keep remembering more bits to weld onto it!

[norton]

I originally set out to use a fibregalss tub but since watching a caterham factory 'how its made' I see thay still construct most of the bodywork as per the book methods.

Can any one give feedback on how hard/easy it was to contruct the rear and side panels the book way please?

I'm interested in this as I like the caterham rear ends. The lower edge of the rear tub appears higher which makes the tub look nicer. I was tempted to attempt this.

http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a311/ihatesissycars/B206B5A4-4829-4D96-8102-0059DCE2D7AC.jpg (http://s14.photobucket.com/user/ihatesissycars/media/B206B5A4-4829-4D96-8102-0059DCE2D7AC.jpg.html)

[norton]

Seats!

http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a311/ihatesissycars/E6135C7C-CDE1-411C-B713-16540ECBF799_1.jpg (http://s14.photobucket.com/user/ihatesissycars/media/E6135C7C-CDE1-411C-B713-16540ECBF799_1.jpg.html)

<a href="http://s14.photobucket.com/user/ihatesissycars/media/44D7DF5A-FDF0-40CE-BE30-B5D44EEA09CE.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a311/ihatesissycars/44D7DF5A-FDF0-40CE-BE30-B5D44EEA09CE.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo 44D7DF5A-FDF0-40CE-BE30-B5D44EEA09CE.jpg"/></a>

[norton]

I don't know if I've buggered up somewhere but I'm certain I could fit the long angled engine bay brace tubes.

http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a311/ihatesissycars/7C2193C0-B183-49AE-8596-21C8AEA8571D_1.jpg (http://s14.photobucket.com/user/ihatesissycars/media/7C2193C0-B183-49AE-8596-21C8AEA8571D_1.jpg.html)

http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a311/ihatesissycars/CF1AAC7E-26FD-4495-9E79-A9EEC57187B7_1.jpg (http://s14.photobucket.com/user/ihatesissycars/media/CF1AAC7E-26FD-4495-9E79-A9EEC57187B7_1.jpg.html)

I'll need to not use the inlet manifold brace but it'll otherwise clear especially on the exhaust side.

I've also fitted the rad. I'll use a pusher fan.

http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a311/ihatesissycars/8CD5FC21-4802-474E-963F-4BB86BD33CDB.jpg (http://s14.photobucket.com/user/ihatesissycars/media/8CD5FC21-4802-474E-963F-4BB86BD33CDB.jpg.html)

http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a311/ihatesissycars/371C6DBF-97E4-4D8A-BC32-4DD87ECCD126.jpg (http://s14.photobucket.com/user/ihatesissycars/media/371C6DBF-97E4-4D8A-BC32-4DD87ECCD126.jpg.html)

I've also fitted the steering column frame and welded in the rear end and seat frames. Just waiting for a coupler before I can complete the steering.

I stupidly forgot to get the key and immobiliser box from the engines original car. It'll make wiring the engine a lot harder. I ultimately want to use a mega squirt ecu so I may go straight to that.

[CTWV50]

I don't know if I've buggered up somewhere but I'm certain I could fit the long angled engine bay brace tubes.

http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a311/ihatesissycars/7C2193C0-B183-49AE-8596-21C8AEA8571D_1.jpg (http://s14.photobucket.com/user/ihatesissycars/media/7C2193C0-B183-49AE-8596-21C8AEA8571D_1.jpg.html)

http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a311/ihatesissycars/CF1AAC7E-26FD-4495-9E79-A9EEC57187B7_1.jpg (http://s14.photobucket.com/user/ihatesissycars/media/CF1AAC7E-26FD-4495-9E79-A9EEC57187B7_1.jpg.html)

I'll need to not use the inlet manifold brace but it'll otherwise clear especially on the exhaust side.

I've also fitted the rad. I'll use a pusher fan.

http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a311/ihatesissycars/8CD5FC21-4802-474E-963F-4BB86BD33CDB.jpg (http://s14.photobucket.com/user/ihatesissycars/media/8CD5FC21-4802-474E-963F-4BB86BD33CDB.jpg.html)

http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a311/ihatesissycars/371C6DBF-97E4-4D8A-BC32-4DD87ECCD126.jpg (http://s14.photobucket.com/user/ihatesissycars/media/371C6DBF-97E4-4D8A-BC32-4DD87ECCD126.jpg.html)

I've also fitted the steering column frame and welded in the rear end and seat frames. Just waiting for a coupler before I can complete the steering.

I stupidly forgot to get the key and immobiliser box from the engines original car. It'll make wiring the engine a lot harder. I ultimately want to use a mega squirt ecu so I may go straight to that.

Hmmmm, interesting!

[norton]

My sump sits 50mm below the chassis so I thought it would hinder this even more. I'm using a mk1 inlet which might make a difference.

[SteveH]

do you have the tube dimensions for these wishbones
as im looking at the saturn plans but dont see them
i see the dims for the jigs but thats it

regards
steve
http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a311/ihatesissycars/5955AABC-0E5F-4825-B520-C63E2401E8B5.jpg (http://s14.photobucket.com/user/ihatesissycars/media/5955AABC-0E5F-4825-B520-C63E2401E8B5.jpg.html)

Nearly all done. Annoyingly the last arm I thought I finished went wonky so I need to correct that. Also still waiting for the suspension brackets which should turn up any day now I hope.

I'm off next week which should give me the time to get it on its wheels and the engine, box and diff mounted too.

[norton]

The rear lower arms I made 20mm longer than suggested by the plans as many were reporting their adjusters were wound out a long way to achieve correct geometry. I would probable revise this to only 10mm longer if I were making them again.

Rear upper arms.

http://i812.photobucket.com/albums/zz50/talonmotorsport/RearUppers_Page_1.jpg

[norton]

http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a311/ihatesissycars/FE5CD98B-AE3B-4A2A-A976-D88B04366B65.jpg (http://s14.photobucket.com/user/ihatesissycars/media/FE5CD98B-AE3B-4A2A-A976-D88B04366B65.jpg.html)

http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a311/ihatesissycars/B3B31623-E0D4-4FAC-8547-A4A5F223870A.jpg (http://s14.photobucket.com/user/ihatesissycars/media/B3B31623-E0D4-4FAC-8547-A4A5F223870A.jpg.html)

http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a311/ihatesissycars/D9AF35C0-E63F-4C16-B056-65265DD04F08.jpg (http://s14.photobucket.com/user/ihatesissycars/media/D9AF35C0-E63F-4C16-B056-65265DD04F08.jpg.html)

They're in. They clear everything but I might have to trim back/remove the inlet support bracket lug from one of the inlet runners. I wonder how much the engine mounts will allow the engine to move as well.

Either way the front end looks a lot more stout. I might still put a cross brace in the front frame too.

Can anyone tell me what flexi hoses they used and where they put the chassis lugs for them please?

[j.brownster79]

Hi Gavin good to see another mx5 build!! The strut brace you have put in on the drivers side I was told on this forum it's not needed as the mx5 uses a collapsible steering colum!?!? I would just check your height for the body work! Nice to see someone else making everything takes longer but it's defiantly bespoke good work fella keep it up!

[norton]

Thanks, I didn't think the collapsible column had much to do with ommiting the brace? I beleived it was due to clashing with the inlet manifold cast brace that extends down the block. I'm leaving that out of my build so I can fit the extra chassis tube which should reduce chassis flex.

[norton]

Can anyone advise on what offset 13 wheels one would fit to our cars?

I'm looking at 13x7 front and 13x8 minilites but I can't find any definite offsets used for such a wheel.

[CTWV50]

Can anyone advise on what offset 13 wheels one would fit to our cars?

I'm looking at 13x7 front and 13x8 minilites but I can't find any definite offsets used for such a wheel.

I used team dynamics 1.2 wheels ET38 I think, best to get a template of the wheels you like to be sure, what brakes are you using? 1.8 or 1.6?

[Davidbolam]

Can anyone advise on what offset 13 wheels one would fit to our cars?

I'm looking at 13x7 front and 13x8 minilites but I can't find any definite offsets used for such a wheel.

I used the mx5 daisy alloys and painted them black. They are quite light wheels and basically a copy of minilites

David

[norton]

Thanks for the info, I'm using mk2 1.6 brakes front and rear. 250ish mm diameter I believe.

[norton]

Can you submit a car for an ova with an lsd that prohibits individual wheels brake tests?

[Davidbolam]

Can you submit a car for an ova with an lsd that prohibits individual wheels brake tests?

Not sure if it helps but my car has a viscous lsd and it passed ok

David

[norton]

Will that diff be damaged if spinning one rear wheel on a brake tester whilst the other is stationary?

I'm looking at the bargain Ashcroft lad but they say it's needs the accelerometer test otherwise it'll be damaged. I know that's fine with an mot test but wil Mr Iva accept that?

[norton]

Chassis painted (badly) floor on and many parts cleaned via electrolysis and wire wheel.

http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a311/ihatesissycars/38E1084A-1BA7-4726-BF2A-9BDE9812DA40.jpg (http://s14.photobucket.com/user/ihatesissycars/media/38E1084A-1BA7-4726-BF2A-9BDE9812DA40.jpg.html)

http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a311/ihatesissycars/49ABE312-B3DC-4EC6-AC74-B259AE534597.jpg (http://s14.photobucket.com/user/ihatesissycars/media/49ABE312-B3DC-4EC6-AC74-B259AE534597.jpg.html)

http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a311/ihatesissycars/E96769AA-B80B-4030-A270-7F20126CD90E.jpg (http://s14.photobucket.com/user/ihatesissycars/media/E96769AA-B80B-4030-A270-7F20126CD90E.jpg.html)

Boxes of goodies!

http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a311/ihatesissycars/C90EEEF7-8545-44C0-BD95-37C7B25BCD44.jpg (http://s14.photobucket.com/user/ihatesissycars/media/C90EEEF7-8545-44C0-BD95-37C7B25BCD44.jpg.html)

I'm aiming to get the arms, uprights, calipers, discs and wheels on then finish the pedal box. I can then route the brake and fuel lines. Then it's engine and exhaust time. At least that's the order I'm aiming for.

Does anyone have a link to some 3 way brake/fuel pipe clips?

[NeilW]

Does anyone have a link to some 3 way brake/fuel pipe clips?

Link http://www.jetpress.com/Products.aspx/vdhimyvk11/DriveRivetPipeClips-Triple/

[norton]

Thank you for the link.

I managed to get some 13" Team Dynamics the same as CTW's for a bargain price too. Mine are in Anthracite, I'm rather chuffed with those!

[norton]

Can anyone recommend an alternative to Toyo R888's that isn't a track tyre and will come in 185/60/13 and 205/60/13?

By this I mean is cheaper but not junk.

[Stot]

I went with Yoko A021-R from Polley motorsports. 185/70/13. The 185/60/13s were £75+vat and the /70/ were £50+vat so worth the compromise for me.

They dont have them on their website any more but the page is still there (http://www.polleymotorsport.co.uk/ProductDetails.aspx?ProductID=135) so the may still do them.

Cheers
Stot

[norton]

Thanks for the heads up stot, I'll drop them a line and see what they can do.

Does anyone know if the mx5 can be removed with the engine in situ? In the Haynes chassis not the original.

[Stot]

Thanks for the heads up stot, I'll drop them a line and see what they can do.

Does anyone know if the mx5 can be removed with the engine in situ? In the Haynes chassis not the original.

Not sure on the question, If you mean can the engine be removed with the gearbox in situ, yes with a bit of wiggling.

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-p3Ut6EDhaxU/VJxsuz-a6DI/AAAAAAAALzw/QkQyrz0SMMA/w800/ReplaceClutch1.jpg

Cheers
Stot

[norton]

Predictive text fail!

I meant the sump, can that be removed without needing to pull the entire engine?

[Stot]

Predictive text fail!

I meant the sump, can that be removed without needing to pull the entire engine?

Oh, yeah I did that too. Easy as pie.

Cheers
Stot

[norton]

Ah great stuff, thank you!

[norton]

Zinc/nickel plating success!

http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a311/ihatesissycars/4120D951-BB0E-49FD-B55A-B79CE7E4E38D.jpg (http://s14.photobucket.com/user/ihatesissycars/media/4120D951-BB0E-49FD-B55A-B79CE7E4E38D.jpg.html)

And does anyone know the bolt size to fit here?

http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a311/ihatesissycars/9037FE81-5121-44AB-B5FE-5A25685D0800.jpg (http://s14.photobucket.com/user/ihatesissycars/media/9037FE81-5121-44AB-B5FE-5A25685D0800.jpg.html)

[TalonMotorFabrication]

I can't remember exactly as it'd been 3 years since I brought mine it's either an M12x1.25 or 1.5, but instead of shelling out for another two random bolts I ran a 12mm drill through them to take a standard common or garden M12 bolt.

[norton]

Thanks for the tip. Much easier, I'll do that!

[norton]

Pedal box is in.

Are people fitting these?

http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a311/ihatesissycars/7D480C98-0869-4269-A1B1-92619F97831C.jpg (http://s14.photobucket.com/user/ihatesissycars/media/7D480C98-0869-4269-A1B1-92619F97831C.jpg.html)

I assume it affects brake balance?

[Ianr]

Haven't test it yet but I have fitted it to my car - kept the MX5 servo as well. Its driving standard sierra front discs and the big (9"?) drums at the rear which I've fitted with Ka wheel cylinders with 17.3 ish pistons to make sure I don't get rear wheel lock up.
No idea if its right until I try it:confused:

[CTWV50]

Zinc/nickel plating success!

http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a311/ihatesissycars/4120D951-BB0E-49FD-B55A-B79CE7E4E38D.jpg (http://s14.photobucket.com/user/ihatesissycars/media/4120D951-BB0E-49FD-B55A-B79CE7E4E38D.jpg.html)

And does anyone know the bolt size to fit here?

http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a311/ihatesissycars/9037FE81-5121-44AB-B5FE-5A25685D0800.jpg (http://s14.photobucket.com/user/ihatesissycars/media/9037FE81-5121-44AB-B5FE-5A25685D0800.jpg.html)

Any chance of you showing us how you did the plating. Been thinking of setting up a tank to see how I get on.

[norton]

I'll post up some pics tomorrow after when I'm back in the garage.

I underestimated the amount and quality of prep required so I've only had limited success. I tried plating a caliper after a 3 day bath in oxalic acid to get rid of the rust, an alkaline based degrease and an activating hydrochloric acid bath but it went horribly wrong!

[norton]

I've been distracted!

http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a311/ihatesissycars/652934F9-188E-4B8B-ACC7-74DAEBF61507.jpg (http://s14.photobucket.com/user/ihatesissycars/media/652934F9-188E-4B8B-ACC7-74DAEBF61507.jpg.html)

[SeriesLandy]

Congrats buddy. Was he/she born today?

[norton]

Thank you! She, just over 4 weeks ago now.

[SeriesLandy]

My little girl is 1 today. She's a real little madam. It's getting easier though. Btw it feels like the past year has flown by so enjoy every moment even if it doesn't feel great at the time.

[norton]

The past month feels like 5 minutes! That's scary!

[vmax1974]

Congratulations from mrsvmax and myself

[norton]

Thank you!

[SteveH1]

Congratulations. Its absolute madness how fast the time goes. Ive a 12 week old and it jus feels like she arrived yesterday. But it wasnt her it was my steel :D

[Ianr]

Congratulations - it does go very quickly, my two are 31 and 34 already, don't know where it all went, enjoy it while you can :)

[rpjg1975]

Congratulations. I can echo the other posts....it flies by, my lad had his first day at school a couple of weeks back....where did that sneak up from?

[JasonL]

My little girl just started school as well. Months now feel like weeks used to.

Congrats! It's bloody hard work 95% of the time, but worth it for the other 5% (numbers may vary)!

[norton]

Thanks again guys, shes draped across my chest at the moment sleeping her lunch off. I need to be careful I don't squish her by Hibbing her too much!

[Rosco]

Awwww congratulations mate, so much cooler than making a car! :D

[norton]

Thanks bud, yes she is waaaay cooler!

[norton]

So amidst the chaos I've found some time here and there to strip the engine and assemble the front brakes.

http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a311/ihatesissycars/7C87AD17-F936-4F7D-9E86-A70501DB19D0.jpg (http://s14.photobucket.com/user/ihatesissycars/media/7C87AD17-F936-4F7D-9E86-A70501DB19D0.jpg.html)

http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a311/ihatesissycars/2723BF9B-9476-4BCB-B09D-8FD254F3CFE8.jpg (http://s14.photobucket.com/user/ihatesissycars/media/2723BF9B-9476-4BCB-B09D-8FD254F3CFE8.jpg.html)

The calipers and carriers have been stove enamelled and rebuilt with new seals, pistons and bolts.

The engines can cover, intake and sump have been aqua(?) blasted and look stunning. The cam cover will get a red crinkle coat of paint and the intake a silver/clear coat finish. The sump, I don't know, maybe silver again.

I've a BEGI coolant bypass and coil on plug conversion to do. Otherwise the cambelt, all seals and gaskets have been replaced and various bits cleaned and painted. The gearbox also got a clean with new seals and a silicone gear lever boot.

This should in the car soon...

http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a311/ihatesissycars/9FC90F18-FEAC-465E-B1B7-36948573C75C.jpg (http://s14.photobucket.com/user/ihatesissycars/media/9FC90F18-FEAC-465E-B1B7-36948573C75C.jpg.html)

http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a311/ihatesissycars/CA168C35-0A11-4672-B412-0FBEE44F92CD.jpg (http://s14.photobucket.com/user/ihatesissycars/media/CA168C35-0A11-4672-B412-0FBEE44F92CD.jpg.html)

[CTWV50]

Nice! Is that a mk2 1.6?

[norton]

Thanks, yes a mk2 engine and box.

[SteveH1]

Hi Norton
I was just wondering where you got the camber adjusters for the suspension from.
Thanks
Stephen

[norton]

Hey, the threaded tubes I got from thelatheman via eBay. The actual bush holder/adjusters I made myself.

[Rosco]

coming along nicely mate, when are you hoping to be completed?

[norton]

The latter half of next year is my aim. I might trip up by choosing to go for a megasquirt setup straight off the bat what with mapping/iva emissions etc but I'd rather incorporate it now.

The rear brakes, diff, shafts, etc are all in. I'm going to turn all my attention to the engine now and get that in. That'll open up another whole range of tinkering.

[norton]

http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a311/ihatesissycars/38F0847D-9A92-4601-85EE-37FBB8FC4849.jpg (http://s14.photobucket.com/user/ihatesissycars/media/38F0847D-9A92-4601-85EE-37FBB8FC4849.jpg.html)

http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a311/ihatesissycars/E306A39D-FB40-42F4-B07F-106009C3E251.jpg (http://s14.photobucket.com/user/ihatesissycars/media/E306A39D-FB40-42F4-B07F-106009C3E251.jpg.html)

[Rosco]

that looks wicked! is it out of a can?

[norton]

Yup, the VHT stuff. I cheated and used a hot air gun to dry it instead of an oven.

[norton]

Nearly ready to go in.

http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a311/ihatesissycars/C3E6121B-5AFF-4501-A24D-7304D1A32154.jpg (http://s14.photobucket.com/user/ihatesissycars/media/C3E6121B-5AFF-4501-A24D-7304D1A32154.jpg.html)

I'm hoping to get it down from the stand in the next few days and into the car. Then I can really get motoring...

[Rosco]

Dont get to excited! Youve got wiring to do yet! :eek:

[Ianr]

Dont get to excited! Youve got wiring to do yet! :eek:
Arrrgh! Wiring! Just taken me 8 weeks to sort the gremlins out with my wiring!
Good luck with yours :)

[norton]

The wiring was the easiest part!

That's what I want to hear!

[norton]

I'm gonna get The car fitted up first and leave the wiring until last but before the body work. I don't have an ecu yet so that needs building. The front of the car is currently sat high on stands waiting to receive the engine which, frustratingly is only waiting for a rubber sump seal otherwise it'd be in already :mad:

[CTWV50]

I'm gonna get The car fitted up first and leave the wiring until last but before the body work. I don't have an ecu yet so that needs building. The front of the car is currently sat high on stands waiting to receive the engine which, frustratingly is only waiting for a rubber sump seal otherwise it'd be in already :mad:

So many annoying little things to order/remember. As for the wiring, you might enjoy it! It takes a while to settle into it but by dealing with one wire at a time whilst working hard to ignore the spaghetti wiring nightmare around you is key!

I perversely, get a kick out of it, a bit like a giant stringy jigsaw puzzle! :D

Having good wiring diagrams helps too.

But your going straight to microsquirt are you not? A challenge I have yet to rise too!:cool: Nice engine btw?

[norton]

Yes ms for me. I've fitted one before which went well. Wiring it up was easy compared to setting it up then mapping it... Never a whole car though. I'm not dreading it but I'll be giving it the most attention I can muster.

[norton]

So I've had another go at zinc plating some bolts.

I tried a tumbler to help cleaning them but I failed miserably :(

I need the correct media rather than the aquarium sand I had to hand.

Here's the plating kit.

http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a311/ihatesissycars/806102F1-69FA-43B1-9305-59CDB71AAE5F.jpg (http://s14.photobucket.com/user/ihatesissycars/media/806102F1-69FA-43B1-9305-59CDB71AAE5F.jpg.html)

You have to derust/everything the part to be played. It really does have to be spotless! Then it gets a dip in an alkaline cleaner, then a water rinse, then a dip in hydrochloric acid, water rinse, plating tank, water rinse, another acid dip to activate the zinc plating, water rinse, blues passivate, water rinse, yellow passivate, water rinse theeeeeen you hang it out to dry.

There's an art to knowing the anode to part to be plated ratio. The surface area of each needs to be close to equal I believe. If not, it goes wrong...

http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a311/ihatesissycars/B5B596B9-55DC-4EF6-9A8E-6EF19CA79D52.jpg (http://s14.photobucket.com/user/ihatesissycars/media/B5B596B9-55DC-4EF6-9A8E-6EF19CA79D52.jpg.html)

Or it can go well!

http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a311/ihatesissycars/BD6B6BEB-EF78-422D-83D9-48A23A4498AF.jpg (http://s14.photobucket.com/user/ihatesissycars/media/BD6B6BEB-EF78-422D-83D9-48A23A4498AF.jpg.html)

Like painting it's all about the prep, but more so. You can paint over things but you cant plate over a poor surface. They really do need to be perfectly spotless. Sand blasting to prepare the part would be good. So far I've been using wire wheels in drills, grinders and bench grinders which is fine for basic shapes but I can't imagine I'll have much fun prepping say a fuel rail with these.

I'll take some more pics showing the stages of plating tonight or tomorrow.

[norton]

Can anyone offer any insight into the likelihood of getting an originally naturally aspirated car through the iva emissions test with a turbo fitted?

I do want to ultimately turbo this car so I'm curious about starting out like that rather than re engineer several parts to later on take a turbo. Cheaper too.

[norton]

More work now but less in the long run and likely cheaper and tidier too.

Moot point now anyways as enthusiasm got the better of me.

http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a311/ihatesissycars/958F7396-3756-4690-BA49-D4944E325C58.jpg (http://s14.photobucket.com/user/ihatesissycars/media/958F7396-3756-4690-BA49-D4944E325C58.jpg.html)

I'm not taking it out again to fit a stronger clutch.

http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a311/ihatesissycars/2D3199E2-534E-49AE-891D-4F7DE5247BFB.jpg (http://s14.photobucket.com/user/ihatesissycars/media/2D3199E2-534E-49AE-891D-4F7DE5247BFB.jpg.html)

Mrs Norton trying it out for size.

http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a311/ihatesissycars/587CEE63-83F4-4EE8-9F86-8C78D27EE0D0.jpg (http://s14.photobucket.com/user/ihatesissycars/media/587CEE63-83F4-4EE8-9F86-8C78D27EE0D0.jpg.html)

[norton]

Loads of clearance around the in and out manifolds despite having the two braces in place.

http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a311/ihatesissycars/6F0953C9-1DD1-41F2-8320-AF700D388285.jpg (http://s14.photobucket.com/user/ihatesissycars/media/6F0953C9-1DD1-41F2-8320-AF700D388285.jpg.html)

I have to unbolt the passenger engine mount and drop the engine slightly in order to get the exhaust manifold over its studs but it otherwise clears the additional brace that side.

[SteveH1]

Hi
I was just wondering what size plate you used for the wishbone plates and where you got the threaded tubes from. Also what model is the bmw drag link from.
Thanks
Steve

[Rosco]

looking wicked, i wish i had some wheels on mine!

[voucht]

The car and engine look great!

I don't know if it is an optical illusion of the picture, but it looks like the top front wishbone are the wrong way around. If it is the same as on the Sierra chassis, the threaded tube should be pointing upwards, and on your picture, it looks like it is pointing downwards. Perhaps the wishbones' set-up on MX5 based chassis is different ?

If I'm wrong, please excuse my comment :)

[norton]

I'm not sure of the plate thickness, 5 or 6mm I think. I got them pre cut from plazcutz via eBay. The threaded tubes also can from eBay from a seller called thelatheman I think.

I'll try recall the drag link. I just had a eurocarparts part number rather than car model as reference.

[norton]

Sylvain, you're probably correct! I've put them on wrong before several times!

[norton]

So I'm looking to order some braided lines and quite anxious about getting the correct length. Would I be right in saying that so long as the line does touch anything with the wheel moved through all its available range of motion it's a pass? And of course that the length is not excessive.

[Stot]

So I'm looking to order some braided lines and quite anxious about getting the correct length. Would I be right in saying that so long as the line does touch anything with the wheel moved through all its available range of motion it's a pass? And of course that the length is not excessive.

I have mine zip tied to the wishbones in the middle, so they are always touching that. As long as there is still some slack at full lock and through the suspension range and they don't rub on something that would cause wear they should be fine.

Cheers
Stot

[norton]

Hi
I was just wondering what size plate you used for the wishbone plates and where you got the threaded tubes from. Also what model is the bmw drag link from.
Thanks
Steve

Try eBay auction number 310650017591 I'm fairly sure that's the part. One part number I've seen is pvtr325 which is a motaquip number. Hth.

[norton]

Thanks for the tips stot, I'll measure up again tonight and go for it I think.

[SteveH1]

Thank you for getting back

[norton]

So I've fitted the exhaust manifold along with the coolant reroute and water pump outlet. I'm now thinking ahead of coolant pipes and how to route it whilst keeping in mind that I would like to turbo this or use a rotrex charger. I planned to fit either of those roughly where the pas pump was below the top chassis tubes.

The water pump inlet is kinda awkward though. I've been looking for an oem pump inlet that faces directly forward not to the passenger side like the original.

I've seen some fit the original back to front which could help but I may end up making one.

http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a311/ihatesissycars/2C796D82-772A-4579-B7A0-315A953E2DDF.jpg (http://s14.photobucket.com/user/ihatesissycars/media/2C796D82-772A-4579-B7A0-315A953E2DDF.jpg.html)

http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a311/ihatesissycars/981C8CEB-C8DD-47E1-AEAF-1A95E9E35A3A_1.jpg (http://s14.photobucket.com/user/ihatesissycars/media/981C8CEB-C8DD-47E1-AEAF-1A95E9E35A3A_1.jpg.html)

I will route the top hose down the exhaust side above the manifold and close to the cam cover.

[norton]

Does anyone know if the book spec roll bar or, more specifically if the harness mounts are iva compatible?

[norton]

I should have been more specific in mentioning I have a book design roll bar kit bought from the bay.

I was happy to assemble it as per the book but wanted to be sure the original plans were still iva compliant.

[TalonMotorFabrication]

How thick is the cross bar that Dave has supplied?

[norton]

I'll measure it when I'm home later.

[CTWV50]

The water pump inlet is kinda awkward though. I've been looking for an oem pump inlet that faces directly forward not to the passenger side like the original.

I've seen some fit the original back to front which could help but I may end up making one.

I've had the same thoughts, I came up with rotating the inlet 180˚, core plugging the heater matrix feed, cutting off the 90˚ bend and having the straight bit left behind machined to fit a 32mm hose. If you make one let me know so you can make me one too. The small 8mm outlet can be cut and redirected using standard plumbing items or just blanked off.

[Badger]

Does anyone know if the book spec roll bar or, more specifically if the harness mounts are iva compatible?

Simply: No. They don't meet the requirements of either being attached at both ends or down one side.

Threaded bushes should be welded (at both ends) through the tube, and not end mounted on the surface. (A threaded bush may be attached by
its side surface to a structural component).

Here's what I did:
http://i187.photobucket.com/albums/x246/Badger_McLetcher/Haynes%20Roadster/DSCN1557_zpslbqwmfzg.jpg (http://s187.photobucket.com/user/Badger_McLetcher/media/Haynes%20Roadster/DSCN1557_zpslbqwmfzg.jpg.html)

[CTWV50]

Use a piece of thick walled (3mm) square tube for the cross member and weld the bush to the rear side of that. I passed IVA ok that way. Tubing will also pass a radius test no problem.

https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3913/15211442131_02abfa6bde_c.jpg

Or weld the bushes through the round tubing supplied.

[norton]

Hey guys, thanks for all the feedback.

Re the harness mounts I think I'll put them inside the cross tube (I understand I may need a new tube, I'll measure in a sec). Is their position ok?

[norton]

I've had the same thoughts, I came up with rotating the inlet 180˚, core plugging the heater matrix feed, cutting off the 90˚ bend and having the straight bit left behind machined to fit a 32mm hose. If you make one let me know so you can make me one too. The small 8mm outlet can be cut and redirected using standard plumbing items or just blanked off.

Yes!i was having similar ideas but was sure how I'd machine the end. I was leaning towards making a jig to mount it on a lathe...

I was thinking of keeping the heater hard pipe though and running it to the heater outlet on the reroute spacer so there is still circulation before the thermostat is open.

http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a311/ihatesissycars/28D6676C-FD04-4AD5-B26D-42B1C91FC8F4.jpg (http://s14.photobucket.com/user/ihatesissycars/media/28D6676C-FD04-4AD5-B26D-42B1C91FC8F4.jpg.html)

Might need restricting a bit though or, it could be useful for a water cooled turbo?

[norton]

How thick is the cross bar that Dave has supplied?

The tube is 33.5mm thick.

[CTWV50]

Yes!i was having similar ideas but was sure how I'd machine the end. I was leaning towards making a jig to mount it on a lathe...

I was thinking of keeping the heater hard pipe though and running it to the heater outlet on the reroute spacer so there is still circulation before the thermostat is open.

http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a311/ihatesissycars/28D6676C-FD04-4AD5-B26D-42B1C91FC8F4.jpg (http://s14.photobucket.com/user/ihatesissycars/media/28D6676C-FD04-4AD5-B26D-42B1C91FC8F4.jpg.html)

Might need restricting a bit though or, it could be useful for a water cooled turbo?

Great minds think a like! Agree with all the above.:)

[norton]

Well, I'll have a go with the one on the car and if that works ill do the same with my spare for you.

[CTWV50]

Well, I'll have a go with the one on the car and if that works ill do the same with my spare for you.

Cool, I've got two spares so I'll send you one over to replace your spare and cover your costs, least I can do. I'm a bit of a turbo noob but aren't most turbos oil cooled, or have I made that up?

[norton]

They have an oil supply to loob the bearing only. Some turbos have the facility to water cooling the cold side of the turbo but not all. I was going to try get a turbo with that facility.

Ps, I'm a turbo noob too. The only other time I've had a serious play with engines was this.

http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a311/ihatesissycars/DSC_0258-1.jpg (http://s14.photobucket.com/user/ihatesissycars/media/DSC_0258-1.jpg.html)

http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a311/ihatesissycars/SP_A0270.jpg (http://s14.photobucket.com/user/ihatesissycars/media/SP_A0270.jpg.html)

[CTWV50]

They have an oil supply to loob the bearing only. Some turbos have the facility to water cooling the cold side of the turbo but not all. I was going to try get a turbo with that facility.

I see, can only be a good thing with our tiny engine bays, heat management issues and fibreglass bonnets. I also thought a 323 style downward turbo flanged manifold would be preferable to a upward facing on.

[norton]

Again that was my thoughts. I looked at the bay and without the pas pump and with the water pump inlet modified it'll leave a gaping hole on the passenger side of the engine. It's meant to be...

[CTWV50]

Again that was my thoughts. I looked at the bay and without the pas pump and with the water pump inlet modified it'll leave a gaping hole on the passenger side of the engine. It's meant to be...

Hahaha! :D

[CTWV50]

Ps, I'm a turbo noob too. The only other time I've had a serious play with engines was this.

What car is that/they? My last fun car was this!


Custom 2.0ltr Corrado G60 (http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?3866413-UK-AUDI-3A-based-2-0ltr-G60-engine-build)

[norton]

The g60 looks superb, I bet you miss the power.

Mine was a Capri into which went various engine ultimately ending up with a 3.9 rover v8 with ported heads, balanced internals, etc and itb's. This ran a v1 megasquirt.

I did loads to it. As far as capris go it was very capable meaning still shite!

[CTWV50]

The g60 looks superb, I bet you miss the power.

Mine was a Capri into which went various engine ultimately ending up with a 3.9 rover v8 with ported heads, balanced internals, etc and itb's. This ran a v1 megasquirt.

I did loads to it. As far as capris go it was very capable meaning still shite!

Big engine Capri, very cool, 3.9 must of been dramatic! :D I got a bit bored with the Corrado, ended up fitting a diesel gearbox to lower the wheel torque and get some traction. I decided rear wheel power was the way to go after I sold it. I think this car is faster to 90mph and a lot more fun but after that the aerodynamics of the corrado wins, it would happily cruise at 150mph, allegedly! :D

Speed isn't king in my mind anymore and acceleration is, plus you don't go to prison for accelerating too quickly! lol

p.s. I haven't been to prison!

[metal matt]

I'm not to sure about how to fit a turbo without making a mess and braking it too so I will be avidly watching you 2

https://www.flickr.com/photos/124541083@N02/

[CTWV50]

Try eBay auction number 310650017591 I'm fairly sure that's the part. One part number I've seen is pvtr325 which is a motaquip number. Hth.

Hi,

which I believe is a typo and should be VTR325. Have you tried this part in the bushes? A lot of these items are listed on ebay as M14 x 1.5 and thelatheman bushes are listed as M16x 1.5. Which has we confused.

Same thing discussed here.

https://haynes.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?t=12492&page=2

ebay link

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Spurstangenkopf-Spurkopf-Spurgelenk-fur-Spurstange-ausen-links-rechts-vorne-/281480311944?hash=item418988b488:g:k1IAAOSwI-BWHFLt

[CTWV50]

http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a311/ihatesissycars/5955AABC-0E5F-4825-B520-C63E2401E8B5.jpg (http://s14.photobucket.com/user/ihatesissycars/media/5955AABC-0E5F-4825-B520-C63E2401E8B5.jpg.html)

Nearly all done. Annoyingly the last arm I thought I finished went wonky so I need to correct that. Also still waiting for the suspension brackets which should turn up any day now I hope.

I'm off next week which should give me the time to get it on its wheels and the engine, box and diff mounted too.

Doh! You have clearly tried the VTR325 with M16x1.5 bushes.

[norton]

No I used m14x1.5 threaded drop links. I got them from eurocarparts. Thelatheman turned up the threaded bush for me.

[CTWV50]

No I used m14x1.5 threaded drop links. I got them from eurocarparts. Thelatheman turned up the threaded bush for me.

Ahh I see. Thanks for that.

[norton]

So I need to organise myself better rather than attacking all the jobs in one go.

So firstly I'm gonna get the cooling system sorted. I'm trying to track down a Westfield owners club person who had some specific reroute hoses made for the top hose. SFS hoses made them but won't remake them without the original persons permission. They make for a far neater job and get the top hose tucked in nicely above the exhaust and by the cam cover.

I quickly hacked the bottom pump inlet about this morning. I've no access to a lathe though so I'm unsure how to machine a hose retaining recess onto it.

[Rosco]

I've no access to a lathe though so I'm unsure how to machine a hose retaining recess onto it.

You can post it to me if you like?

[norton]

That's a kind offer but setting it up would a real ball ache. You'd need to remove the chuck, fit a face late, then an angle plate onto that then the piece to be worked into that which will then need centring.all that just to turn a shallow recess to help retain a hose in place.

I could file something adequate into it so its probable best to just do that.

[Rosco]

ok mate, can you post a pic, how about a bead of weld or and olive so to speak

[norton]

I ll take a pic tonight when I'm home. Welding it could work. I have an idea re that which a picture will explain better than words.

[SteveH1]

There was a thread on here and the fella split a copper brake line and pushed it on the opening round the edge then soldered it in place but i cant rember which thread

[norton]

If you mean the small steel L bend then no we're talking about the actual inlet which receives coolant from the radiator. We want it to point forwards not to the passenger side.

[SteveH1]

Is it a bead ur looking to create to stop the hose coming off

[norton]

Yes that's the goal.

[SteveH1]

Ok so measure the circumference of the pipe and cut a piece of copper brake line to this length
Then split the pipe along its length and push the split onto the lip of the pipe all the way around and solder in place.
Assuming its steel as i dont know if you can solder ali

[K4KEV]

rather than split it grind it back on one side until you can easily push through then you can push it on and solder....that is how I got a rounded edge on my exhaust tip...... for beads to keep pipes on simply bash a piece of brake pipe or cut a strip from a copper pipe and roll it around then solder ...did it on some of my steel water pipes

[SteveH1]

Yea musta been your thread i seen it on

[norton]

Ok so, standard.

http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a311/ihatesissycars/AEA68796-8C6D-4EB9-9AE0-636E3228F91C.jpg (http://s14.photobucket.com/user/ihatesissycars/media/AEA68796-8C6D-4EB9-9AE0-636E3228F91C.jpg.html)

Standard facing forward.

http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a311/ihatesissycars/ACE09248-B0C7-41DF-914A-A4CA91262E48.jpg (http://s14.photobucket.com/user/ihatesissycars/media/ACE09248-B0C7-41DF-914A-A4CA91262E48.jpg.html)

The intended finished arrangement. This my spare inlet with the 90 degree bit chopped off.

http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a311/ihatesissycars/7AA6E5E7-C0AC-47CC-8A2B-8E7251A36247.jpg (http://s14.photobucket.com/user/ihatesissycars/media/7AA6E5E7-C0AC-47CC-8A2B-8E7251A36247.jpg.html)

http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a311/ihatesissycars/C3CC702A-7DAF-4E0D-BD6E-74018728BE2D.jpg (http://s14.photobucket.com/user/ihatesissycars/media/C3CC702A-7DAF-4E0D-BD6E-74018728BE2D.jpg.html)

[Rosco]

Ok so why couldnt we just chuck on the inside of the tube and turn a grove in?

[norton]

The id is about 28mm. Have you any internal jaws that small?

[norton]

Pedal box is more or less done. I need to hook up the hydraulics and test it. I also glued some this rubber flooring to the floor as it just felt like it needed it. Should dampen the floor panel too.

http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a311/ihatesissycars/0AA86D14-6813-4118-AC04-3D4B6A325650.jpg (http://s14.photobucket.com/user/ihatesissycars/media/0AA86D14-6813-4118-AC04-3D4B6A325650.jpg.html)

http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a311/ihatesissycars/BAFFABB9-8A8C-4130-BED0-F8A60FBC0AC5.jpg (http://s14.photobucket.com/user/ihatesissycars/media/BAFFABB9-8A8C-4130-BED0-F8A60FBC0AC5.jpg.html)

http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a311/ihatesissycars/FFBBBB98-F96B-4778-B06F-9B06D591AE5B.jpg (http://s14.photobucket.com/user/ihatesissycars/media/FFBBBB98-F96B-4778-B06F-9B06D591AE5B.jpg.html)

[Rosco]

The id is about 28mm. Have you any internal jaws that small?

I will have a look in the morning

[Rosco]

Looking good! You can get some pipes done now, you will be caught me up soon!

[norton]

Cheers bud, I'm on a role again!leave the chuck, I've tested out clamping a hose to it, I really cannot pull the bugger off!

[norton]

Brake hoses are now on (thanks voucht!) and I'm cracking on with arranging the cooling pipes.

It would be avantageous to fit and ally sheet to the chassis just in front of where the scuttle goes however I have no bodywork to guide me and how I cut/attach the panel. Can anyone offer any guidance on that?

Also, clutch hoses for mx5 based cars?

[Rosco]

Brake hoses are now on (thanks voucht!) and I'm cracking on with arranging the cooling pipes.

It would be avantageous to fit and ally sheet to the chassis just in front of where the scuttle goes however I have no bodywork to guide me and how I cut/attach the panel. Can anyone offer any guidance on that?

Also, clutch hoses for mx5 based cars?

Yeah I could do with fitting that to but I'm just waiting till I get my scuttle, bit of a pain really, no probs on the chuck

[RichardH]

my mx5 donor was a mk2 it has its own clutch hose, i intend to reuse that to a bracket on the body then a rigid pipe downt he the master cylinder

[Ianr]

My master cylinder is mounted high and the pedals are hung from above. To connect the master to the slave I had a flexible hose made up that goes direct from master to slave by Sylvain which means only 1 direct fitting works very well indeed. Thanks again to Sylvain

[Stot]

The id is about 28mm. Have you any internal jaws that small?

You could just file a couple groves in. They don't need to be particularly deep and the corner of a square file will make short work of it.

You can put a piece of hose on it and file against the edge of the hose to get a straight edge all the way around.

Cheers
Stot

[norton]

Thanks guys, I should've added that I've used the book pedal box and wilwood style cylinder.

The master and slave cylinders are so close together that the hose will be difficult to create in such a way that it looks 'right'.

I'll try manipulating the oem parts as suggested or failing that I'll get a hose made.

Re the pump inlet I have filed some grooves into it. With the correct size hose and a jubilee clip I can suspend my own weight from it. Jerking it doesn't move it either. I core plugged the heater hose join and wound a bolt into the small 8mm inlet which I cut and filed but I now realise I needed that! I have another for a mk2 version..

I'll post some pics once things are finished.

[norton]

Tight.

http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a311/ihatesissycars/2DA67D2F-49EE-406B-8D2B-61DA1FCBD622.jpg (http://s14.photobucket.com/user/ihatesissycars/media/2DA67D2F-49EE-406B-8D2B-61DA1FCBD622.jpg.html)

http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a311/ihatesissycars/59D393A6-5D1D-4BC1-B273-48887ECD4CD7.jpg (http://s14.photobucket.com/user/ihatesissycars/media/59D393A6-5D1D-4BC1-B273-48887ECD4CD7.jpg.html)

The master cylinder outlet is 3/8 24tpi and the slave inlet is m10x1.

[norton]

Would a coiled copper pipe pass iva? Would iteven work long term?

[Rosco]

how about get a flexi one made up with your brake lines?

edit: sorry you had already said that

i think a copper one would be fine and also its not going to kill you if it ever did fail

[Stot]

The original is a coiled pipe, probably aluminium and then also a flexi you can see at the top of the pic.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/oXvfBGUbwhnAFpMdJjpp-PmRl6dLwcNXK9kXXCoXmGrabT2uOoALThTf--8mkRFSmMdodITz54cD1cH9XNvftg2kEh4WzOQyUVkJ43VCg7KC 9d6p0Ezqb0PP8n-uaDeMATj9NrAQ1n39BPHvDT8bb2GxMsa__i_rptbvknw0YnvR6 wtagwduMfdAi8rV-kvpUuUc2nAOVNyQsKbTf3hswDqkoCBarAOA9zHUMHyAWXpX3O5 v8o91FKNFlAzxyxwzLVSPFp4j6iuWIqBeNRQCUfaF2UTJO1oyL SIMO0A74bihu7D_ATVBPHK54IlyXdE0qsdz3sA7KSRyiaRkyGP rT6Z8ZPKQ81cAmRay9r_rHLB1QMEVybo0XzX_CFCuE9l21Yu0c _C9x3Dcob82GlcnZx1gSr9_tegOjDzy5H3fLmL_xoLDS6v7pnI qd_VAKX4_5p-ovZ1yNR_Xkgj8Vb4w-yRaPMMw92CuIeRAI-OSb8LqIA-gv9MFMngG261OWdXZiLGX-9tgIKJ8kO4EA3nncDGkFtTNkkuUfXLjHLfH2XI=w800

Mine passed with that installed.

Now I only have a HEL Flexi line in a coil connecting the two.

Cheers
Stot

[norton]

I've been thinking of how to use the or setup but it seems long winded given the position of both cylinders. It still possible though.

[norton]

Have you a pic of the flexi you've used at all?

[flyerncle]

Stainless braided hose with two different fittings on the ends.

[norton]

Kerr-ching.

[norton]

I hate brake pipes :mad:

[Stot]

Have you a pic of the flexi you've used at all?

Not at the moment but heres what I ordered from HEL, £30.

Create Your Custom Brake Hose

Code: CUSTOM

Options: Fitting 1: Swivel Male 3/8" x 24 UNF , Fitting 1 Angle: Straight , Fitting 2: Swivel Male M10 x 1.00 , Fitting 2 Angle: 20° , Support 1: None , Support 2: None , Colour: Transparent , Ferrules: Black Heatshrink , Length: 600mm

I did a loop in it and losely zip tied itso the loop could expand and contract with the engine. In hindsight I would probably put a 20* angle on both ends for ease of fitment.

Cheers
Stot

[norton]

I've had a tinker mocking up a copper line but it didn't feel like a proper job. I think a flexi hose is on the cards. Thanks for the info stot. It gives me a good datum to use.

[norton]

Does anyone have a link to someone who sells the diy hose fittings but doesn't a flat £10 postage?

[norton]

So I've made up a clutch hose and bled the clutch. It works but it's unpleasantly heavy.

http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a311/ihatesissycars/6A3BF646-7F75-4FC3-8C98-FDE6815E3B9C.jpg (http://s14.photobucket.com/user/ihatesissycars/media/6A3BF646-7F75-4FC3-8C98-FDE6815E3B9C.jpg.html)

http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a311/ihatesissycars/DE4C12B6-0CC8-4698-94BE-B54B0A0DBDAC.jpg (http://s14.photobucket.com/user/ihatesissycars/media/DE4C12B6-0CC8-4698-94BE-B54B0A0DBDAC.jpg.html)

I was looking for a 0.65 cylinder to try but no one makes one.

[voucht]

+1
If the pedal is too hard, you want to reduce the diameter of the master cylinder, not to increase it.
Good job with the clutch line, it looks nice.

[norton]

I considered the 0.625 mc but thought that was quite a jump. Nevertheless it looks like the next available option.

[Davidbolam]

I considered the 0.625 mc but thought that was quite a jump. Nevertheless it looks like the next available option.

My car uses a 0.7 cylinder and the clutch feels just right. I do have an larger diameter hose going between the two. Not sure if this makes any difference but when I had it made up be furore he suggested a larger diameter

I remember skov having a stiff clutch problem as well.

David

[norton]

That's interesting, I'll fire a message to furore for advice. I've used a -3 hose and m10 banjo fittings. All the moving parts are friction free so it's definitely a hydraulic issue.

[RichardH]

the banjo fittings may be your issue, try a bit copper pipe in with standard male ends before you go spending any cash.
some master cylinder to slave setups do use 10mm pipe but not on the mx5

[Ianr]

I don't know what the standard ones dia is but that is what I am using and clutch feels fine, and I am using a flexi line as well

[norton]

I don't know the pedal box dimensions/pedal leverage but it's all as per the Saturn plans using a 0.7 mc.

[norton]

Top hose.

http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a311/ihatesissycars/E3C6D15F-382A-4489-B128-CF36460F8DDE.jpg (http://s14.photobucket.com/user/ihatesissycars/media/E3C6D15F-382A-4489-B128-CF36460F8DDE.jpg.html)

Bottom hose/inlet.

http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a311/ihatesissycars/831CCA5C-35D4-4145-9502-B08C027C5B94.jpg (http://s14.photobucket.com/user/ihatesissycars/media/831CCA5C-35D4-4145-9502-B08C027C5B94.jpg.html)

http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a311/ihatesissycars/11ECC6AC-0E3C-4882-AD8D-713D98753365.jpg (http://s14.photobucket.com/user/ihatesissycars/media/11ECC6AC-0E3C-4882-AD8D-713D98753365.jpg.html)

And to make this work I made up an 8mm copper line to route coolant from the cold start/fast idle valve to the water pump inlet.

http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a311/ihatesissycars/ED5E5CE1-EEF4-4C7C-9EE6-D0377A140ED2.jpg (http://s14.photobucket.com/user/ihatesissycars/media/ED5E5CE1-EEF4-4C7C-9EE6-D0377A140ED2.jpg.html)

So asides from the expansion bottle the coolant pipes are done. I also wrapped the exhaust manifold because I felt like a tart...

I've been putting off the brake pipes as they have the potential to completely cack if not formed perfectly. I can't put it off any longer though, they have to happen.

My next update will likely be in a year or so's time.

[CTWV50]

My next update will likely be in a year or so's time.

Hahaha, take your time! Lol!

[norton]

It's fiddly, boring and time consuming. Poo. I'll sulk for s few days then get on with.

[Rosco]

looks bloody mint pal!

[norton]

Thanks Rosco, it'd look even better if I had one of those superb looking battery trays you've made ;) :D

Does anyone have a spare mx5 throttle cable at all?

[Rosco]

Thanks Rosco, it'd look even better if I had one of those superb looking battery trays you've made ;) :D

Does anyone have a spare mx5 throttle cable at all?



Lol, send me a drawing and i will see what i can do!

[norton]

Well, exactly the same as yours assuming you have a standard floor pan? I was very impressed by it, much better than those welded ally jobbies all over eBay!

On the progress front I have now made the two front brake pipes and mounted a tee by the mc to accommodate a brake light switch. I'll get to work on the long front to rear pipe tomorrow.

[Rosco]

ok i will drop you a u2u, as for your brake light switch, a few people have said it takes a bit of pressure on the pedal to get the lights on and end up swapping to an electrical switch on the pedal, just a thought

[Stot]

ok i will drop you a u2u, as for your brake light switch, a few people have said it takes a bit of pressure on the pedal to get the lights on and end up swapping to an electrical switch on the pedal, just a thought

Ill be adding a manual switch at some point for this reason.

Cheers
Stot

[SteveH1]

Hi Norton
did u put in grp1 and 2 at the rear
and did d 13 fit ok
the saturn plans say it should be 304 but it seems to be too short
but I'm not sure i have grp1 and 2 correct i have grp 1 level with rs14 is that correct
thanks

[vmax1974]

Hi Norton
did u put in grp1 and 2 at the rear
and did d 13 fit ok
the saturn plans say it should be 304 but it seems to be too short
but I'm not sure i have grp1 and 2 correct i have grp 1 level with rs14 is that correct
thanks
If I remember correctly grp1 and 2 should have a 5° angle upwards from rs14

[norton]

The diagonal that connects to the rear most rail was longer than the plans. I can't remember my final measurement. I assembled all the other rails then cut the diagonal to suit.