Eternal's Straight 6 Build Thread

[Eternal]

Well got the garage ready to go! and build table is at last dead flat!

http://img21.imageshack.us/img21/1277/garagecy.jpg
(sorry about the bad photoshop)

So i guess at last i can start my build. I will be using the RB25DET out of my written off my Nissan Stagea (skyline estate) and using a sierra donor for all the parts i need. I hope the 7" difs can take the torque of the engine. Will need to use the stock one for the IVA but if i find problems i can allways swap around later.
I will be doing a small extention on the front to move the suspension/rack forward and to make more space inside the engine bay area. Will have to get a free cad program from somewhere and make my chassis design in it.
Anyhow not much more to say about atm but i will keep this updated as i do the build.
Laters!

Eternal (Alex)

[drury318]

Hello Alex, all the best with your build, but I think you should look for a bigger & better equipped workshop mate!


Dennis.

[Eternal]

Haha alot of saving to get all that lot but kinda handy to have the gear when needed.
Not used the tig for a while still getting it all setup but just did this. Just a bit of practice work any tig welders able to give me any tips? trying to work out how to finish the weld off and look nice this one looks a big crap at the end.
http://img822.imageshack.us/img822/1940/img0065t.jpg

EDIT: whops i made the image size was massive lol

[baz-r]

does the tig have down ramp control? that can help the crappy end you get on your run

loads of tigs have diffrent settings and knobs understanding what thay do realy helps

id be using a 2.4mm tungsen very pointed, 1.6 filler, around 50amps dc and 25 crator/base if you have it, pulse off if you have it, hf start on if you have it
1 sec pre gas
2 sec post gas

keep the torch travel constent with around 1.5 mm gap and dip/drag the filler onto the edge of the shiny pool to cool it keeping the bead uniform in with
as the work pice heats up you just go a bit quicker

not as easy as it sounds :D
a steady hand makes light work in the tig world

i realy miss tig welding

[Headshot]

Can I just say.......

Chuffin nora! I WANT that workspace!!!!!!!

Good luck with the build, can't wait to see this one finished :D

[aerosam]

Nice build area, looks like you spent a few bob down your local Machine Mart too!

That's the first build area I have seen that has a PC with the haynes forum up, so you can ask questions whilst actually doing the work - fantastic!

Look forward to seeing this build progress!

[spud69]

Wholly inadequate Alex workshop, still need more gear - dont see a lathe in there (bet its behind the camera)........;) :D ;)

Only jesting of course, all the best with your build....AndyH

[Eternal]

No lathe atm :D But the frame at the back is to encase my milling machine thats being converted to cnc atm. Should be getting my electonics from the states today woooo! loads more work rofl. Will be adding a 4th axis in the future so will be able to do lathe type stuff.

Thanks for the tips Baz i only have 2.4mm rods atm, gas is allready set to 1&2sec. pulse is off atm and i was doing that at around 70amps so will bring it down and try again. Just got to practice i guess :D

[davidimurray]

Nice workshop :D

What are you doing with the mill? I've go a 3axis (must finish the 4th) CNC mill. Was a manual machine I retrofitted ball screws to hooked up to some stepper drivers and running Mach3. I've also got a Denford Starturn CNC lathe I retrofitted to modern electronics and that again runs Mach3. Love my toys :D

[Eternal]

Sweet just going to be doing some small bits to start with. May make some stuff for eBay when I can make stuff good enough. I'm using a x3 small mill ATM. Will post more info when I get back.

[Eternal]

Right here is the setup im doing for the mill.

X3 Small mill
http://img444.imageshack.us/img444/9735/img0070mu.jpg

Just picked these up from Parcel Farce had to pay them over 25quid in handling grrr + customs. It took them longer to move it from customs to Dorset than it took from the factory(usa) to england. oh well heh
Geckodrive G540, 2x Keling KL23H2100-35-4B 381 oz motors for X and Y, 1x Keling KL34H295-43-8A 906 oz N34 motor for Z and 1x Keling KL-350-48 48V/7.3A PSU.
http://img293.imageshack.us/img293/9444/img0068lc.jpg

Will be getting the cncfusion delux kit when i got the stand and liquid cooling ready.

[davidimurray]

That's a nice setup - I got some very similar motorsfrom Keling and a similar PSU secondhand in the UK. Geckos are great bits of kit. I've alos got a touchscreen on mine which is brilliant - bought it for £9 as the glass unit and just glued it to the front of my monitor.

I recently added coolant on mine - thought these proper setups were a bit expensive so I bought a pond pump, a plastic box, some funnels and some hose and got the system going for £30 - then spent another £20 on proper locline for the hose. Works like a dream so far :D

[Eternal]

Just got a phone call from the director of kit car type stuff from the Bournemouth DVLA had a nice long chat and he gave me his personal number. He confirmed that i can used the steering colum and axle along with a unwelded chassis kit from saturn to get a age related plate. Also he is sending me a load of forms/info. Unfortunatly due to current rules ect i cant get a custom vin but will be issued with a dvla one instead. No big deal what i really care about is a non Q. Real nice chap and he will be the one to inspect the car as well. So yeah fantastic news :D

[Eternal]

Took a picture of the engine i will be using. My word its large heh going to have some fun making a custom front inlet plenum as well. :D

http://img340.imageshack.us/img340/8584/img0085bu.jpg
http://img824.imageshack.us/img824/8481/img0054j.jpg

[twinturbo]

Got to love a straigh6 though...

My usual choice of Propultion is a V6, wish I had gone with one on the galaxy rather than the 4pot.

TT

[Eternal]

bugger! had a look under the engine just to see whats what and i have the RB26DETT GTR sump :eek: its solid ally and huge lol

rb25det rwd tin sump
http://lh5.ggpht.com/_kcrAFdGOoVs/RkiAQVynVMI/AAAAAAAABFE/3T99HBGoq0I/s288/For%20Sale%20005.jpg

rb26dett gtr sump/dif single cast.
http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/post-a191815-Sump-With-Diff.jpg

Any ideas what i should do?

Edit: ohh this is a cool idea
http://www.theprojectmoff.co.uk/images/news/sump7.jpg

[Eternal]

hah if i made the roadster left hand drive i could probably keep it 4wd haha

[bobbyh]

sounds tempting. :D

[twinturbo]

Get a steel sump pan.

TT

[twinturbo]

I am amazed they cast the diff housing into the sump, sierra ones bolt on.

TT

[twinturbo]

P.s.....

Did you not knwo you had 4x4?

TT

[Eternal]

Yeah i knew it was 4x4 but i did not realise the sump was like that.

if i get a 91' r32 rb25de engine block i can transplant my 97' rb25det head and internals. using the serial number i can then prove its pre 93 and thus no cat but is that a bit naughty?

[Eternal]

progress! cant belive how much stuff there is attached to this engine!
http://img20.imageshack.us/img20/9757/img0130kl.jpg
should have it out tomorrow i think. i have not even started on the underside of the car yet :rolleyes:

Insurance finaly settled on paying me and wanted 120quid for the car so yeah great birthday gift from them lol

[twinturbo]

WOW, £120 that's a bit of a bargin. Did they payout meet your expectations?

TT

[Eternal]

Yeah i got what i bought the car for lol :D

[twinturbo]

Magic :)

I bet you will make a packet on the rest of the parts too.

TT

[Eternal]

Yeah all the cash is going towards the roadster. Just bought a RB26dett inlet plenum going to get the cam covers as well its going to look sweet :D

[Eternal]

Damn that was alot of work! But jobs a good'un that gearbox is massive. honestly its HUGE. Think i need a beer now lol :D

http://img96.imageshack.us/img96/717/img0140xr.jpg
http://img718.imageshack.us/img718/8061/img0139la.jpg

[Eternal]

sweet engine loom out now as well. U guys think i will need the interor loom? Also u think i will need the fusebox/alternator loom or should i just make that lot up from scratch or use the sierra.

[twinturbo]

I am going to make all but the engine loom from scratch.

TT

[Davey]

I'm making my wiring up from scratch for the whole animal, engine harness, lighting, charging, radio?:confused: and I'm using a third party engine management unit to boot! Also if anybody hasn't noticed I'll be bald from July 29th till August bank holiday:confused: :eek: !

D.

[Headshot]

I am also going to build my loom from scratch, except engine loom :confused:

[Eternal]

Cool i dont have to cut my knucles any more yay!

So do you guys think a 194mm stretch will make the car look silly? duno if i should stretch the hight by 1 inch as well.

[Eternal]

http://img46.imageshack.us/img46/1260/img0143kp.jpg
Evil HUGE auto gearbox removed at last. freaking supid gtr sump requiresyou to remove the flywheel before you can get to the bolts to remove the sump...... but the flywheel requires you to remove the sump to remove it! i had to heat up a 14mm spanner and bend it with a S shape to be able to get behind the flywheel. The sump has enough material to mill out socket holes so will do that i think. Could use a steel sump but that has no gearbox bolts so not quite as strong.

[Eternal]

http://img514.imageshack.us/img514/4255/img0147v.jpg
Right thats pretty much all im going to remove from the engine. Going to use rb26dett cam covers and pully cover just to make it look nice and will match the rb26dett plenum that i will be modding onto the stock rb25 one. Will have to cut stock plenum up and make a adapter out of it. The Ally sump really weights alot! have decided to use a steel one instead will save some weight. Edit: its 14.5kg! wow

Was checking out the length of the engine stretch and have worked out it will give the roadster pretty much the same wheel base as the Donkervoort D8GT. Have decided to shrink the cockpit by 1inch as well im 6ft so i should be ok :D

[Enoch]

Bleedin hell that's long. I would certainly make it all a bit higher or it will look more like a dragster. Should be a most interesting project though. As far as wiring is concerned, I am using the engine loom and doing the rest from scratch. The roadster loom is so simple it just seems to make sense.
Enoch.

[Eternal]

yeah im worried about the hight i might have to add an extra inch i think any idea how high the zetec is from sump to top of cam cover? Humm wounder if its worth adding the hight to the scuttle and bonnet/nosecone or adding hight to the chassis....

[Eternal]

humm damn i really dont know about the size of this roadster think its going to look a bit crazy heh i know the normal ones are basicaly a +221 but with fitting the front extention its going to be a +821 so will be long and low i think the +1 on the hight would be good but only on the engine bay/scuttle so that would make it a +822 Idealy would like to +2 the width but thats a hole new can of worms..... Would have to rework all the sierra stuff and would be a complete ass.
But saying that a +842 would actualy look right. Anyone know how i can do this using the sierra stuff? Also the skyline gearbox has the starter on the drivers side and is wider so i think i will need the extra width to fit a pedal box and my feet!
My cash clears on Thu so i got a few days left of planning till i go nuts and order loads of stuff.

[twinturbo]

You want to avoid andy width change at the front, or you will have to find a new rack to avoid Bump and IVA fail..

TT

[Eternal]

Right to get what i want im just going to have to bite the bullet and just redesign the front chassis 194mm extra is just too long. But what i can do is keep the stock suspension bracket uprights so that will save a load of hastle. Tomorrow i will start i think and see what i can work out. Out of interest how hard is it to upgrade to the 7.5inch dif instead of the 7inch?

[K4KEV]

me thinks you should have gone CA like me I thought mine would be bad but I would not like to be behind you on a gravel road (me thinks helicopter mini gun)
will sound nice bud, nothing like a rb growl (cept for a CA scream of course:D )

[Eternal]

http://img444.imageshack.us/img444/7060/img01621.jpg
yey my r34 gtr plenum arived today Happy days!

[Eternal]

Damn! gearbox issues now....... Wish i could just bolt a type 9 onto it!
see my problem.....?

http://i424.photobucket.com/albums/pp327/shanealaric/P5040072.jpg
http://img382.imageshack.us/img382/6906/rb25t5spd5pf.jpg

The big fella is the standard rb25det gearbox. The nice small 30kg ligheter one is from a rb25de. Think i can get away with the non turbo gearbox with a light car?
Man those box's are long as well going to need to change gear with my elbow!

[twinturbo]

I would expect you should be fine with the smaller box, the car will break traction before enough torque is generated to do damage.

TT

[deezee]

Its not how long it is, its what you do with it that counts! Fnar Fnar

[Eternal]

cool stuff well all i have to do now is find one along with a rb25de flywheel clutch preasure plate and all the other crap lol. going to cost me a fotrune but worth it :D

[Eternal]

right! got 24m of 25x25x2 erw box.
Have found a gearbox,dif,prop, clutch,flywheel, pressure plate, slave cyl that will fit perfect! now just got to haggle a price lol

[Eternal]

sweet! got gearbox, slave cyl,fork,diff,prop,drive shafts,flywheel, clutch,preassure plate, spigot bearing and release bearing. £400 quid collecting tomorrow :D so yeah will now have a full drivetrain wooooooo

[Eternal]

Finaly started! Bought a front frame from Andy way too much bother to make one myself lol should arive tomorrow.

http://img576.imageshack.us/img576/9043/img0181up.jpg

Had to make the rear box first then did a few tacks to hold it together then moved it into its new home. Engine bay stretch causing more trouble lol :D

[twinturbo]

comming on quickly :)

TT

[Eternal]

in ref to br1-12 when it says... "when you are happy with the fit of these tubes, tack weld them together, working on one side of the chassis then the other to minimise any distortion" do they mean tack every tube on 1 side then tack ever weld on the other? as i personaly would normaly do 1 tack on 1 side then 1 on the other to keep it even. Advice welcome!

Also when should i fully weld as i need to move the chassis from the jig to do the rear end. Also i dont have the gearbox or diff yet so i cant do the tunnel enterance or exit yet (end next week)

[Eternal]

Are the front frame uprights ment to run parallel down the length of the frame? having a bit of trouble with a complete front frame i bought. If i get the top level its way way out on the 75mm from the front measurement. and also 1mm too low. if i pull it forward on the top it goes to the right hight but the ff4 has a slope. Guess i should untack it and check to make sure its true. Damn really wanted to not have to mess around with the front frame. Also i think its slightly twisted if i get the front dead level the the top ends of f4 are slightly off by about 3mm from each other. Just check the elbows of the bends and ff3 is 3mil sticking out from the width of f4 and f2 is 1mil sticking out. Maby its me i duno what do you guys think? Good news is the frame base is all tacked now. Did a tack then did another on other side.. must have walked miles lol

http://img821.imageshack.us/img821/4504/img0192w.jpg
http://img717.imageshack.us/img717/6690/img0193y.jpg
http://img197.imageshack.us/img197/2272/img0194jo.jpg

[Eternal]

Can anyone post a pic of the join between u3 and u6 i cant tell from the book how they are ment to be aligned. :D

[Eternal]

Right finished making new front frame all sorted fits perfect first time with no messing around :D Installed one of the top rails to test and was perfect no gaps at all. Feel well chuffed as was worried about making my own front frame heh. What a day! right time for lots of beer tv and bed lol
Oh and for anyone who cares here is a pic. (note old frame on floor! lol might chop it up for extra metal)
http://img714.imageshack.us/img714/3443/img0198g.jpg

[Eternal]

humm can anyone tell me when i should start to fully weld this beast :D i notice that the seat back sb1 will cover the unwelded join of br13-br5/6. Also i dont have the gearbox or dif yet so i cant tack sb4 yet or u7/8

[Eternal]

http://img202.imageshack.us/img202/2350/img02071.jpg

[Eternal]

Good day today got U1 and U2 sorted.
Also going to get my gearbox tomorrow £200! for the slimline skyline gearbox.
Wed im getting 18m of 20x20x1.5mm erw box and 18m of 25x25x2mm erw box £75.
Thu im going for a little drive to pick up a diff,prop shaft,slave cyl and drive shafts for £120 oh also found these on the Locostbuilders forum.

" Front Hubs
http://locostbuilders.co.uk/upload/3Front%20Hubs.JPG
Brand New discs when I built my car , Fitted with MK Mushroom Top Inserts
factory reconditioned brake calipers ,new Pads. Brakes have done a few hundred miles only.
£50"
+ i bought the 4 ball joints for £10

Happy days!

[Eternal]

http://img812.imageshack.us/img812/361/img0217q.jpg
gearbox wooo and modded u1/2 to fit extended enginebay and still use stock wishbones.

[Eternal]

And as if by magic 24h later! the limoster is getting there :D

http://img638.imageshack.us/img638/6994/img02231.jpg

[HandyAndy]

Nice work Eternal :cool:

I can see where CP24 goes :D :D

cheers
andy

[Eternal]

Some nice bits arived today aint bad for £60 including ball joints! what a fantastic buy :D

http://img822.imageshack.us/img822/3048/img0226qw.jpg
http://img155.imageshack.us/img155/7623/img0227p.jpg

[twinturbo]

Are teh Mushrooms excentric?

TT

[Eternal]

The mushrooms are from a MK indy so duno if i can use them.

here is a pic
http://img210.imageshack.us/img210/1613/img0229il.jpg

[mark]

The haynes is designed with eccentric mushrooms which help with the self centring of the steering which is vital for the iva test.

They look offset just check its the correct ammount

[spud69]

They look fine, as you rotate them the offset will increase (usually need them fully forward) then set the camber with the drag link.

Calipers look nice......;)

AndyH

[twinturbo]

The haynes is designed with eccentric mushrooms which help with the self centring of the steering which is vital for the iva test.

They look offset just check its the correct ammount

I was going to say that the correct amount is a function of the rotation + camber adjustment.

But Spud beat me to it :)

TT

[Eternal]

sweet. well if they are not right i can get the haynes ones so no big deal. Here are the ball joints i have to admit im well chuffed.
http://img41.imageshack.us/img41/9017/img02301p.jpg

[HandyAndy]

Looks like you got a real bargain there :cool:

mushrooms look ok too;)

soon be on wheels eh.

cheers
andy

[mr henderson]

Are teh Mushrooms excentric?

TT


They look concentric to me too, but I think the consensus is that eccentric is desirable, but not a big deal really.

The effect on the self centreing is minimal, that's mostly set by the caster, which the offset mushrooms have no effect on.

[Eternal]

Nice thanks for the info guys :D

Well here is todays progress. Did a good 9 hours today not that it really looks like it!
http://img819.imageshack.us/img819/1787/img0232r.jpg

[Davey]

They look concentric to me too, but I think the consensus is that eccentric is desirable, but not a big deal really.

The effect on the self centreing is minimal, that's mostly set by the caster, which the offset mushrooms have no effect on.

I respectfully beg to differ M'Lud. They look eccentric not concentric and their effect on self centreing is a lot more than minimal as they are your only real means of adjusting the castor angle which is what generates the self centreing action.

D.

[mr henderson]

I respectfully beg to differ M'Lud. They look eccentric not concentric and their effect on self centreing is a lot more than minimal as they are your only real means of adjusting the castor angle which is what generates the self centreing action.

D.

Actually no. Consider what it is that sets the caster angle, it's the line drawn between the top balljoint and the bottom balljoint, when viewed from the side. That's the axis that the hub swings around. So you can see that although the mushroom position (if it is eccentric) can have an effect on the trail, it can't affect the caster.

[Eternal]

Tbh I find all the suspension stuff real hard will have to get some of u guys to sort it out when ready!

[twinturbo]

Actually no. Consider what it is that sets the caster angle, it's the line drawn between the top balljoint and the bottom balljoint, when viewed from the side. That's the axis that the hub swings around. So you can see that although the mushroom position (if it is eccentric) can have an effect on the trail, it can't affect the caster.

Eh?

if you move either top or bottom locating point fore/aft then the castor changes as the relation of centerline to the vertical has changed.

TT

[3GE Components]

The thing to consider here is that the Sierra upright is being used, this is designed for a Macpherson strut, so when used in our application provides a few "issues"

The picture below shows why, the diagram on the left is the hub using a concentic (in line) insert, the right with eccentric (offset) insert. Both have the upper and lower pivot points in the same place, the only difference is the insert used.

http://i991.photobucket.com/albums/af35/3GEComponents/Pivot.jpg

As you can see, with a concentric insert the centre line of the stub axle is forward of the line drawn between the pivot points (castor angle), moving it above the the lower pivot. This reduces the trail, this is what gives self centering. By using an eccentric insert you can see that this rotates the hub backwards around the lower pivot to get the stub axle back in line with the line drawn between the pivot points, therefore increasing trail and improving self centering. Castor is only increased by moving the upper pivot point backwards, either by moving the whole upper wishbone or by making a new one.

Hopefully all that make sense.

Kind regards

John.

[Davey]

Yes of course you are all correct. I blame Mr Carlsberg:o .

D.

[twinturbo]

Castor is only increased by moving the upper pivot point backwards, either by moving the whole upper wishbone or by making a new one.

Still a little confused, surely the excentric adapter has the effect of moving the topmounting location, If you rotate the muchroom 180 degrees the position of the upright centerline moves forward/backwards a centimeter or so in relation to the top balljoint ..

TT

[3GE Components]

http://i991.photobucket.com/albums/af35/3GEComponents/Castor.jpg

If you view the chassis from the top you'll see that the ball joints give you a dimension, shown here as X, this is the castor when viewed from the top.

This dimension doesn't change when you fit the inserts (either type) what happens is you move the upright around. It's the line drawn between the ball joints that determines castor, the centre line through the hub will change, but has no effect on the castor.

Kind regards

John

[spud69]

Yes you're right John, but it still helps with the self centering of the steering. Not as much as a normal production car but enough to pass IVA and give you some return to center.

Cheers....Andy

[3GE Components]

Everything is a compromise, but in this case all the parts are fixed and we are trying to put into words what the eccentric inserts do as these are the only parts that can be changed, basically they increase trial for this set up, which is what centres the wheels. Shopping trollies are a good example of trail being used for self centering, thay have zero castor so when push in a direction the wheel will turn to the correct path (self centering) If you've had one that's had a knock, the trail is upset and the wheel wobbles from side to side trying to self center.

If you wish to increase castor you need to move the whole upper wishbone back or the lower one forward. Castor is what gives the car a steady feeling when driving along the road, greater caster angles serve to improve straight-line stability, they also cause an increase in steering effort.

Hopefully that makes things clearer.

Kind regards

John

[Eternal]

ahhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh i understand now. Thanks :D

[Eternal]

Tell you guys what doing the tunnel MT 10/12 is hard :D cut grind cut grind cut..............

[Eternal]

Only a short day today. Got all the tunnel done now so i guess i can fully weld it. had 2 pings today so i think a couple of tacks have gone somewhere..... doh!
I'm so worried about welding this thing i really dont want it to twist or anything. But i def want to weld it up first as i would like to have it facing the other direction for when i build the rear end should give me loads more space.

Any hints or tips in regards to full welding the beast? should probably clamp as much down to the bench as i can. Also going to weld it fully before the diagonals to be able to get better welds

http://img22.imageshack.us/img22/5675/img0233pr.jpg
http://img682.imageshack.us/img682/8300/img0234en.jpg

[mr henderson]

If your work bench is actually flat, and the chassis sits flat on it without being clamped to it, I see no reason why you should not remove the corner blocks and swing it round to do the rear end.

[Eternal]

I think the rear centre of the table has sunk a bit (1mm many a little more) I sat in the chassis when I was messing with the gearbox.

[HandyAndy]

Looking really nice :cool:

Nice work Eternal,

as for welding.........what I did on my own chassis was to do as Mr H has said, removed some of the small plastic blocks so that you can slide your chassis forward enough to allow you to do the rear diff cage area, as I have used GRP rear tub I didn,t have to build as per book for an Ali tub,

so what I suggest is slide your chassis forward, complete the rear end by tacking it into place, then check & double check all dimensions of the chassis are correct before you start any full welds, alternate your full welds from front to back, from one side to the other side etc, allowing the welds to cool fully, check dimensions as you go, & you,ll soon have it fully welded........well thats how I did mine & it turned out straight & true :)

keep up the good work,

ps, have you found where CP24,s go yet? :D

cheers
andy

[mr henderson]

I think the rear centre of the table has sunk a bit (1mm many a little more) I sat in the chassis when I was messing with the gearbox.


Do you know someone with a laser level, most builders and kitchen fitters have them. You need the type which projects a horizontal line. You can use that to get the four corners level, then level the whole board up. It may not be that much of an issue, though.

[Eternal]

The sides are level but the back centre has dropped a tad was in the centre lifting a gearbox around and think I slightly bent the metal framework under the bench. I really hope I did not mess up the back end some how lol.
Thanks for the tips will help a load.

[Eternal]

crap my little pub bottle of gas just ran out =( u guys think it would be ok to hook up my pure argon to the mig welder instead? :D

[Eternal]

Right its allmost fully welded missed a few welds in the inside and the underside. Started on the rear suspension stuff now so thats great! no twisting so far so ace news. Had to take it out the workshop to sand down the table just to make sure when i moved the chassis it would stay flat. When all the rear stuff, CP plates and other bits are done i will flip it over and do the underside/hard to get to bits.

While it was out the workshop i decided to do a little messing around! I have some real real rare 3pc enkei split rims. Problem is they are 5 stud and 117.5 and most deff the wrong offset. Its a shame as i would love to use them. Maby after the iva i can mess around see if i can do some hub work.

http://img51.imageshack.us/img51/6969/dsc0823m.jpg
http://img715.imageshack.us/img715/6139/dsc0824i.jpg
http://img46.imageshack.us/img46/4821/dsc0825o.jpg
http://img340.imageshack.us/img340/1188/dsc0826u.jpg

[mr henderson]

Looks better with the visor DOWN!

[Eternal]

haha thanks! working on the rear frame today eek wish me luck!

[Eternal]

Just picked up some new cam covers, plug cover and timing cover. This moves the oil breather to the back and will allow me to have a lower bulge in the bonnet. Will probably remove the stock breathers of this one and move it to the very back. Also need to machine a hole for the vvt on the front of the inlet cam on the pully cover then fab up a little dome for it.

Before
http://img444.imageshack.us/img444/7060/img01621.jpg
After
http://img692.imageshack.us/img692/7168/img02501f.jpg

[twinturbo]

Looks smart,

I have only just noticed the cam belt, I have seen narrower super charger belts!!! I bet the service interval is measured in laps of the planet rather than Miles..

TT

[Eternal]

Got my VIN number today lol its kinda pants but hay =P at least it has TVR in it hahah was sent a hole load of info and stuff to register the car.

[Eternal]

Right well after being distraced by the radio host and winning tickets to watch Ricky Gervais live i decided to call it a day and eat some food at last!
Made a LOAD of mess today stripped all but 1 cam cover they had.. black primer, white primer, calsonic blue, black primer then hammerite blue :mad: took sooooooooo long and so much mess to strip then down. gah

Anyhow! made some good progress with the rear of the chassis.
http://img684.imageshack.us/img684/5910/img02551.jpg

[Eternal]

Been going nice and steady and have the back pretty much all welded now. Real happy that the chassis is pretty much sorted. I will be adding a 2nd set of 20mm diagonals on the side of the chassis from front to back. Dont know if it will help much but with the power and weight of the engine ect i think it would be a wise idea. After the rear is welded up i will flip the chassis and work on the under side. Im also going to be installing guessets the the under side box sections thare are not braced by a D eg where the floor is. :D Will also be removing the part above the front bellhousing and raising it 1inch to allow a big more space.
http://img23.imageshack.us/img23/668/img02571.jpg

[HandyAndy]

looking nice :cool:

The GRP tub frame looks good too :)

won,t be long before its on wheels at this rate you are working at :eek: :D

cheers
andy

[Eternal]

Well..... after a afternoon of 40amp plasma cutting and 2 cutting discs i now have a sump i can use. Well allmost! might need to shorten it and also need to weld in the ally plugs but apart from that its great! Took so much effort to remove all the stuff from it let alone cutting the thing up. some of that ally is upto a inch thick.

Before gtr sump.
http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/post-a191815-Sump-With-Diff.jpg

After.
http://img248.imageshack.us/img248/9056/img0262tn.jpg

http://img715.imageshack.us/img715/7908/img0259z.jpg

http://img256.imageshack.us/img256/5663/img0261x.jpg

[Eternal]

Little update.
Chassis is now upside down and being welded on the underside. Quite a few welds missed so going over the holes chassis just to make sure its all done. Anyone know when you cut out the bottom box section to make room for the gearbox? thinking while its upside down it would be a good idea to do it now. Or should i finish the steering support first?

Picked up a granada steering column, v5, vin plates, paint plate, dif, number plates and a load of photos yesterday, so thats going to help in regards to age related plate ect.
Anyhow hope you guys are all having a productive weekend on your roadsters!

[twinturbo]

I think your going to be looking at a "Q"

TT

[Eternal]

After talking to the guy i got the diff from he is selling me all the stuff i need from 1 car. The only thing i need to do is shorten the drive shafts a little. so from the same car i will have, dif, shafts, hubs,breaks, column, steering wheel, v5, vin plates, number plates, combine that with the "new" chassis its enough to get a age related plate. The other axle on ebay has been relisted, i payed for it to be put back up. So all is good i think :D

[Eternal]

But even if its Q plate i will have the car i want :D That the main thing really

[Eternal]

Big update! Im sorry for the 3 posts of pics but can only post 4 at a time! Anyhow what do you guys think?
I am so relived it fits! just..... the starter motor housing is quite close to the upright so might have to cut a bit out and bring it back a little. Its not in the right place yet but allmost. But from what i can see it clears everything so thats great. Sump is a little low so will have to weld on some skid bars just to make sure it does not catch on speed bumps. Anyhow enjoy the pics!

http://img808.imageshack.us/img808/2720/img0282k.jpg
http://img818.imageshack.us/img818/7601/img0283y.jpg
http://img293.imageshack.us/img293/7815/img0284ef.jpg
http://img62.imageshack.us/img62/5956/img0285ws.jpg

[Eternal]

http://img717.imageshack.us/img717/305/img0287ud.jpg
http://img843.imageshack.us/img843/4079/img0288p.jpg
http://img638.imageshack.us/img638/8681/img0289eg.jpg
http://img823.imageshack.us/img823/7758/img0290jg.jpg

[Eternal]

http://img195.imageshack.us/img195/5554/img0291em.jpg
http://img3.imageshack.us/img3/6650/img0293c.jpg
http://img51.imageshack.us/img51/6779/img0294wy.jpg
http://img408.imageshack.us/img408/7242/img0298h.jpg

[Eternal]

Picked up the rest of the bits that i bought the other week. All the bits were finaly removed wooo happy days. Real happy! Check out the rims... did not want to say much at the time, but got some nice rims wanted to wait till i had them in my hands as allmost too good to be true!
Anyhow now have the J scorp steering column, rear hubs, carriers, diff,calipers, discs ect and other bits. The chap is going to get my some sierra shafts but in the mean time i have some granny shafts that have been cut up so i can just mock stuff up. He is also breaking another scorp that im having the early cossy front calipers and discs as i think im going to need the stopping power. Basicaly bought the car he removed the parts i wanted. He keped the engine and scrapped the rest. Sorted!

http://img839.imageshack.us/img839/1541/img0302y.jpg

Check out the Bling.... Amazing to see the stock granny wheels behind! Edit: Think i might need power steering.....
http://img37.imageshack.us/img37/108/img0304sf.jpg
http://img205.imageshack.us/img205/2148/img0299e.jpg
http://img9.imageshack.us/img9/6732/img0303fv.jpg

[Eternal]

Well build has slowed a bit atm due to lack of cash. :rolleyes:

So! decided to do a bit more on the cnc conversion! Still a long way to go thats for sure.

http://img190.imageshack.us/img190/2791/img0316hd.jpg
http://img814.imageshack.us/img814/9977/img0320.jpg
http://img576.imageshack.us/img576/9052/img0321f.jpg

[monsterob]

are you looking to adopt a son ! can i have first dibs ! love the workshop and the build

[Eternal]

Right im back! Had a house move so all the gear was stored in the garage. Also found the garage roof had a rather large leak so now thats all sorted i can start to do things again. Happy days! Now live next to people so cant be loud so going to have to rethink things a little. Have started getting the engine to a finished state as its the only thing i can get to at the moment :D

Have been thinking about the chassis as when i removed the workbench i noticed it had sagged a little in the center so a bit worried my chassis might be a bit screwed up as did not notice it when i was welding. Im very tempted to look for someone to take the chassis too just to check it over and install/weld the suspension brackets. Maby Saturn or someone, im unsure so thought i would ask if any of you guys have done this? Also as its a few inches stretched would like to check if its all ok.

Here are a couple of pics of the engine now i have installed all the correct bits to hold the covers on. Also i found a Oil filter housing that did not have a heat exchanger(Saves a load of space and loads of hoses) so that was imported from japan.

http://img9.imageshack.us/img9/3628/img0391pz.jpg
http://img816.imageshack.us/img816/1125/img0486r.jpg

[aerosam]

Fair play, that's gonna be awesome when it's done. can't wait to see that going.

[Eternal]

Right after getting the chassis suspension brackets sorted with a fair amount of help from Talon its now time to paint the wishbones with epoxy mastic 121. After that i will try and find some bushes. So far i belive i have two options:

1) Saturn bushes at around £98+pp (stainless steel CNC'd crush tubes)
2) GTS Haynes roadster £60+pp (stainless crush tubes)

Anyone know if its honestly worth the extra £38 for the saturn ones? Or if there are any other options.

[Tilly819]

i dont want this to turn into a riot but dont buy them from GTS chances are IF they turn up they will be s**t anyway

tilly

[Bonzo]

Great to hear that you are now ready for the chassis painting stage :cool:

Once that job is done you'll be able to start the great job of fitting everything & seeing your build come to life.

Please do a search on here & locost builders before you part with any cash in the direction of GTS Tuning ( Darren George ) !!??

In brief, he has a bad reputation of taking your money & not sending your goods !!

At one point, he was using stock pictures of the suspension bushes & if you were lucky enough to even get them, folk found that the crush tubes were mild steel ones that had been cut roughly to length with a chop saw, rendering them net to useless ( No idea if this is still the case !!?? ) :eek:

Have a look at the rear camber adjusters on his web site .... The crap quality speaks for itself ??

Darren George has had a large number of seller accounts suspended by ebay, he has tried to trade directly on this forum, often via an agent or using an assumed identity. ;)

My advice is: Buy your bushes from Saturn, at least you'll know that you will definately get them & if you run into any problems, Saturn will bend over backwards to help you :)

[Eternal]

Yeah I guess its best to pay a little extra to make sure you have the quality and the product its self!

[mark]

When i ordered my bushes i looked all over the place for them and you just cant get them cheap :rolleyes:

Get them from saturn you know they will be of good quality and will definately turn up! :D

[Bonzo]

Don't want to sound patronising here :o

This was my take on the Poly bushes.

After the shock of buying my shocks ( No pun intended ), I must admit, it bought a tear to my eye when it came to paying out a wedge of wonga for my Poly bushes :eek:

Then I got to thinking .... Try not to do that too often as it tends to land me in trouble :D

Why do Poly bushes seem expensive ??, I guess the answer lies with the sheer number needed.
22 of the little beggars, that's 44 Injection moulded bush halves & 22 CNC machined, stainless steel crush tubes .... Sort of puts things into prospective, £4.50 per bush kit !!

Let's say, a few years down the road & your pride & joy fails its MOT on the nearside front, lower wishbone bushes !!??

£10 - £15 for a new pair of bushes begins to seem like a bargain to me.

Just the thoughts of this old duffer :o

[mark]

Don't want to sound patronising here :o

This was my take on the Poly bushes.

After the shock of buying my shocks ( No pun intended ), I must admit, it bought a tear to my eye when it came to paying out a wedge of wonga for my Poly bushes :eek:

Then I got to thinking .... Try not to do that too often as it tends to land me in trouble :D

Why do Poly bushes seem expensive ??, I guess the answer lies with the sheer number needed.
22 of the little beggars, that's 44 Injection moulded bush halves & 22 CNC machined, stainless steel crush tubes .... Sort of puts things into prospective, £4.50 per bush kit !!

Let's say, a few years down the road & your pride & joy fails its MOT on the nearside front, lower wishbone bushes !!??

£10 - £15 for a new pair of bushes begins to seem like a bargain to me.

Just the thoughts of this old duffer


I was going to state a similar point in my post but it turned into a short story so i didnt bother!

But you have hit the nail on the head there Ronnie, when you think about what you are actually getting (ie bushes for an entire car) and how important they are, its not alot to pay really

[gaz05]

Another vote for the Saturn bushes here. Got mine very quick and a perfect fit.

[Eternal]

True true. I guess it just seems alot after the cost of the wishbones ect. Tho it does mean i have to find a little extra cash from somewhere...... humm maby i can sell my cat :D

[ozzy1]

At the end of the day you get what you pay for,pay peanuts get shite.Personally have had no dealings with Saturn but Handy and Spud are on the forum a lot and would be easy to contact and always seem willing to offer advice and feedback on anything without pushing you to anything they sell.

[spud69]

Hi,

Thanks for the feedback its always nice to see.

The polybushes themselves are actually very cheap for what they are it is the stainless steel crush tubes that make up the majority of the cost, they are not standard steel tube and need to be made from stainless steel rod, drilling them and finishing off in the lathe. So for 22 of these they do put the price up a fair bit.

TBH mine are bought in and sold at more or less cost price just to make them available so i'm not sure how they, if like for like, can be offered so cheap.

Everybody has a choice......:)

All the Best...>Andrew

[baz-r]

i have 3ge set and yes thoes little tubes are where all the money goes but now john has closed 3ge
if you dont want satern ones for any reason.
rally design do some (may need mod'ing slightly) and so do superflex but i think thay will be expensive

just one of thoes roadster non standerd parts i guss:o

[Eternal]

Will go for saturn ones when i got the spare cash. Nice shiney red ones lol.

Good news is i ordered a 8x6 shed so can store all the extra garage stuff in the garden and have some work space at last!

Epoxy Mastic 121 arives monday so can start to paint stuff. This weekend i plan to mount the Diff. Clean up the diff any any other parts so i can crack on with the painting on monday. Also want to do part4 of my youtube vids as it been 6 months from my last one.

It feels so good to be back into the build again. :D
Also thanks for everyones replys!

[Eternal]

Out of interest what size bolts do you guys use for the driff brackets to chassis? i was thinking m12 x 40 with thread lock nuts. Would that be too long?

Edit: went for 40mm as i can allways cut them down after.

[Bonzo]

I Have used some M12 X 40 set bolts for my diff mounting brackets ( All I could find in the workshop ) , to be honest, they look a little bit over the top for the job :o

I would imagine that M12 X 30's would be ideal :)

Noticed that you have gone for 40's, like you say, not a problem to trim them to the ideal length ;)

[Eternal]

Thinking of using 2mm steel sheet for the floor of the chassis and to get it on sooner rather than later. Im just unsure about having rivited and bonded ally taking all the stress and train from the chassis twist and will feel alot safer with welded steel sheet.

Anyone have any tips on the weld order to stop the sheet from distorting and looking nasty?

[baz-r]

Thinking of using 2mm steel sheet for the floor of the chassis and to get it on sooner rather than later. Im just unsure about having rivited and bonded ally taking all the stress and train from the chassis twist and will feel alot safer with welded steel sheet.

Anyone have any tips on the weld order to stop the sheet from distorting and looking nasty?

plenty of tacks about every inch then weld short lengths leaving each to cool before doing one next to it
the more tacks you have the better and thay also help heat transfer to the tube so your sheet dont buckle as it expands when you weld
another tip is if you get some zinc weld trough spray and spray the bottom of the tube and top edges of the sheet it will help preventing rust in the bit your not going to get paint in on the overlap :)

[Eternal]

Ahh sweet! also i presume thats welding on the outside of the chassis. i guess i should just do tacks on the inside or would that need seam welding as well?

Todays update Part 1
Had a massive garage sort out. Built a shed and moved all the mess into it. Still need to find a home for the Milling machine stand. Also built the table/workbench.
http://img218.imageshack.us/img218/9638/img0508fp.jpg

Engine/Welders in new home.
http://img703.imageshack.us/img703/1596/img0511ku.jpg

Chassis in new home. Not much space around the side but will do for the time being.
http://img824.imageshack.us/img824/8011/img0510dl.jpg


Ahhh the current problem. The holes in the chassis diff plates are 11mm wide >_< were bought from 3ge last year, they are ment to be 12.5 right?(dont have book to hand atm). I went to go bolt the diff up and found it wont fit. Then found the 12.5mm drill bits wont fit in my hand drill. Cock is all i can say! So anyhow i cant exactly remove them and dont want to use smaller bolts.
http://img97.imageshack.us/img97/9563/img0519qn.jpg

[Eternal]

Today's update Part 2
Allmost finished the 7.5inch Granada Diff brackets. The 25x80mm ally round is going to be cut down and then drilled with a 12.5mm drill to make a nice spacer rather than using a load of washers.
http://img830.imageshack.us/img830/4646/img0514ct.jpg
http://img852.imageshack.us/img852/7528/img0518.jpg
http://img851.imageshack.us/img851/175/img0517h.jpg
http://img218.imageshack.us/img218/9499/img0516zs.jpg

[Eternal]

First bit fitted to chassis! Feels great to bolt something on. The 7.5inch diff looks nice and chunky thats for sure.
Anyone know where i can get a new diff breather plug?
http://img837.imageshack.us/img837/8533/img0520p.jpg
http://img651.imageshack.us/img651/7953/img0522b.jpg
http://img195.imageshack.us/img195/4595/img0523r.jpg
http://img535.imageshack.us/img535/267/img0521zp.jpg

[Eternal]

Had to do a bit of squashing modding and cutting but managed to fit the Sierra steering column bracket onto the granada shaft. Granted it sits below rather than ontop but the bolt holes are still in the same position so i think it should be ok. If anyone thinks it might be a problem let me know before i start welding stuff up!
Have to admit i do prefer the Granada stalks and cowel.

Oh also looking at the revision for the mt75 plans it highlights that one of the uprights from the tunnel needs to be changed to a new size but one is not listed. Dont suppose anyone knows what the tube size is along with the cut angles ect.

http://img64.imageshack.us/img64/6720/img0528dt.jpg
http://img87.imageshack.us/img87/5285/img0529j.jpg
http://img848.imageshack.us/img848/8579/img0531q.jpg
http://img830.imageshack.us/img830/1567/img0530z.jpg

[Andy_B]

Excellent somebody using the exact same Granada gear as me ...looking forward to the wiring up bit ?

[Eternal]

I cant wait........ I have a Auto RB25det skyline engine loom, Granada steering gear and nothing else so i can foresee alot of restless nights and hair pulling.

[mark]

That steering wheel is hideous!!!!! :D

Even worse than a sierra one!

Good for iva though until it accidently falls off afterwards

[Eternal]

Indeed! the main reason i need it is for age related plates. But i do prefer the stalks compared to the sierra. Indded at some point im sure the wheel will drop off somewhere to be replaced by a nice new one.... :D

[Eternal]

Still need to mill down the 26 into a 25 on the pully cover.... Also need to install cross bars below the engine mount but will do that when i next remove the engine. Real glad i did the chassis stretch!
Monday it will have its wheels!

http://img651.imageshack.us/img651/4430/img0568o.jpg
http://img101.imageshack.us/img101/131/img0570io.jpg
http://img135.imageshack.us/img135/240/img0571f.jpg
http://img215.imageshack.us/img215/9537/img0572z.jpg

[Eternal]

http://img847.imageshack.us/img847/6898/img0573w.jpg
http://img846.imageshack.us/img846/1846/img0575g.jpg
http://img844.imageshack.us/img844/2807/img0576q.jpg
http://img143.imageshack.us/img143/1091/img0577c.jpg

[twinturbo]

It's a shame I am going back to 4-pot for my build as my heart has always been with 6's

It's going to be fun by the looks of it, and the chasiss stretch may make it a better drive dynamicaly too.

TT

[Eternal]

Yeah with any luck the stretch might do something good for a change! heh.
Still a real shame that you are not doing your v6 but i guess you can allways change back in the future after the IVA.

[Eternal]

Pic update from other threads.

http://img651.imageshack.us/img651/4430/img0568o.jpg
http://img135.imageshack.us/img135/240/img0571f.jpg
http://img143.imageshack.us/img143/1091/img0577c.jpg
http://img24.imageshack.us/img24/9089/img0586kd.jpg

[Eternal]

Been thinking about what to do next. So here is my battle plan.

1) Get wheels on to make sure it all fits ok.
2) Remove engine/diff/bits
3) Weld steel floor on (2mm maby 3 advice needed)
4) weld more braces in
5) turn back over and reinstall everything
6) buy triton seats and get them mounted as low as pos (metro runners?)
7) figure out steering column location install steering rack and start scuttle area.
8) Big problem with steering rack to column expected as alternator is in the way.

Thas my next month or so planned out. Dont suppose anyone can think of anything else i should do while doing that lot?

[HandyAndy]

Looking great :cool:

May I ask.....the extra braces you have put in beside the engine bay, are they welded to D1 & D2 or do they just pass eachother? ( can,t quite see from the pics ) , it looks good :cool:

I,d suggest 2mm steel floor , or even 1.6 if you are mounting the seat runners on boxed tube welded into the chassis between the tranny tunnel & cockpit side rails.

Nice work :cool:

cheers
andy

[Eternal]

The cross braces are welded to D1 and D2 as they butt up against them. Atm only tacked and i think i will make some guessets as well. Think that will be ok or should i just leave them unwelded.

[HandyAndy]

Think that will be ok or should i just leave them unwelded.

If it was my build & the extra braces passed that close to D1 & D2 then i,d be inclined to weld them fully together, no real reason other than it would look neater/ possibly stop them vibrating against eachother & maybe even create stronger rigidity of the engine bay ( IMHO ) :)

Thought of something to consider for your next weeks work......the little brackets to hold the brake pipe unions where "hard pipe" meet "flexi pipe".

I,d like to say ....I enjoy reading about the updates of this build :cool:

cheers
andy

[Eternal]

Was thinking that it would be a pain to paint between them so welding them together seemed like the right thing to do.

Ohhhh yes good idea! must not forget those. Will check my box of bits and see what else needs attatching.

Also the wheel arch bit that goes past the elbow of the driver will be made from bent tube rather than the book sheet bits. also the same with the top of the bit going from the arch to the scuttle. But that will all be done once i have started on the scuttle area.
I plan to build a full cage into the chassis amd mount the window onto it along with the scuttle. This will allow me to fix a removable hard top for the winter months)

[HandyAndy]

mount the window onto it / removable hard top for the winter months)

:eek: :D you,ll be telling us you are putting a heater in too ? :p

would the window be PRE or Post IVA ? thinking demisters / wipers etc lots of work etc for the IVA regs ;)

cheers
andy

[Eternal]

post iva stuff. Im planning on using a Smart Roadster windscreen/dash/wipers ect. Or maby a new (old) mini screen that has the right engravings. Indeed heaters and demisters will all be installed. Depends on what i can find but i really want a nice curved windscreen that seals properly.

But that is a little in the future :D first things first i have to just get the basics done. The scuttle/windscreen surround and cage will all be done on the 2nd phase heh. But saying that if any of you guys know of any cars that have the same windscreen width at the roadster and look nice please let me know.

[K4KEV]

post iva stuff. Im planning on using a Smart Roadster windscreen/dash/wipers ect. Or maby a new (old) mini screen that has the right engravings. Indeed heaters and demisters will all be installed. Depends on what i can find but i really want a nice curved windscreen that seals properly.

But that is a little in the future :D first things first i have to just get the basics done. The scuttle/windscreen surround and cage will all be done on the 2nd phase heh. But saying that if any of you guys know of any cars that have the same windscreen width at the roadster and look nice please let me know.

me is thinking about this too.....will be watching closely :)

[Eternal]

smart roadster windscreen is 1260mm wide my chassis will need a 1030mm wide screen. Bugger there goes that idea lol.

[Eternal]

Just a quick update to the build thread with last weeks progress. Deff need to do something with the sump. Ride height im happy with even tho its a tad bit heigher than normal.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ta-Zeleug1A

http://img232.imageshack.us/img232/7876/img0611p.jpg
http://img62.imageshack.us/img62/2535/img0604j.jpg
http://img200.imageshack.us/img200/8953/img0612ve.jpg
http://img707.imageshack.us/img707/2/img0613ph.jpg

[Eternal]

Wow what a fantastic day! SO nice to be able to work in the sun.

Prop shaft is fabbed up and is ready to be sent to get made up by a prop shaft company. The slip yoke has 1/2 inch of movement so that should be ok. Or do you guys thing there should be more play?

Prop shaft gearbox yoke in its final location.
http://img706.imageshack.us/img706/350/img0702xn.jpg

Prop yoke pushed in as far as it can go.
http://img339.imageshack.us/img339/4093/img0703p.jpg

http://img847.imageshack.us/img847/1977/img0708l.jpg
http://img691.imageshack.us/img691/4163/img0709fb.jpg

[Eternal]

Quick rack installed. Think thats all installed ok. If anyone sees any problems let me know!

http://img688.imageshack.us/img688/5585/img0706wj.jpg
http://img31.imageshack.us/img31/1302/img0707i.jpg

Sump height.
http://img269.imageshack.us/img269/9872/img0712hm.jpg

Pully cover now shows RB25 rather than RB26. So no more false advertising.
http://img690.imageshack.us/img690/7545/img0714fg.jpg

[Eternal]

Ops double post.

[JakeH]

very nice, quite like the meatyness of the engine!

that thing is going to be a monster and down right deadly on wet roads :eek:

Jake

[Eternal]

Seats arived. Had to put them in and see how it looked. Also had to jump in..... feels great! Now i have to work out how to fit the rails and seats so they can be removed at a later date while using ally floor.

http://img714.imageshack.us/img714/9243/img0767jh.jpg
http://img845.imageshack.us/img845/9251/img0769p.jpg
http://img847.imageshack.us/img847/690/img0770e.jpg

[HandyAndy]

:cool: Looking great

As for seat runners.... do you really need them? I asked myself the same question :D in the end I didn,t fit any seat runners, I,ve placed the passenger seat as far back as possible & the drivers seat is positioned to suit my height/leg length....after all , my reasoning was I,ll be the one doing the driving, :)

makes fitting the seats alot easier too :o , I too have an ali floor .

cheers
andy

[Eternal]

Humm I was under the impression that the drivers seat must have runners for the iva. If not then that's sweet news!

[cornishmaid]

And we thought our MX5 engine was going over board, your car will be rather quick indeed.:)

[BORNXenon]

This will be a monster, you sir, are a nutter!! :D



I'm quite jealous!

[cornishmaid]

This will be a monster, you sir, are a nutter!! :D



I'm quite jealous!

I agree there as our car is quite scary at times.

[Eternal]

Took the car out today to get a bit of sun. Seemed a shame for it to miss out!

http://img842.imageshack.us/img842/9156/img0776n.jpg

[michael92]

damnn.. that's looking fine :p
rather inspiring :)

i don't know if it has been mentioned already but just out of personal interest, what inter-cooler are you planning on using ? :)

Michael

[Eternal]

Not sure what type of intercooler im going to be using yet, Probably a custom one.

Here is a little update of some bodywork. I have a load of work to do on the MNR nosecone and it will look alot different by the time its done. But that is the current length it will sit on the chassis.
Got a bit of a overhang on the scuttle. I thought i was going to have to pull it out now it seems i have to push it in a little lol ops. Anyone know the exact location the scuttle should sit and how much it should overhang the chassis rails?

http://img821.imageshack.us/img821/505/img0796d.jpg
http://img40.imageshack.us/img40/2127/img0798y.jpg
http://img845.imageshack.us/img845/5793/img0799i.jpg

[jerkins]

The MNR nosecone is an odd thing - it doesn't look good in photos, but looks fine in real life.

It's probably a good idea to use a nose with a lot of air through-put - you'll need all the cold air you can get! (don't forget to give the air somewhere to get out again).

This is a fine project... :)

[Eternal]

Indeed the mnr vortx race nose is a strange looker thats for sure. But the reason i love it is that its so tall and it will clear the front of my engine (just). The air will be split into two sections 1 (top) for intercooler and vent out of the top of the nose. 2 (bottom) to go into the radiator and two oil coolers some of this air mainly from the oil coolers will exit via the little wing bits.

Oh and just because it looks funky!
http://img251.imageshack.us/img251/3335/img0807k.jpg

[twinturbo]

Reminds me a bit of the Xenomorph from Alien.

TT

[Eternal]

I'm back! Due to all the moves working on the project has been hard but have not got access to an unused 60000 sq ft unit that I can use. So will be getting the project started up again! A friend offered me cash for it and made realise how much I don't want to let it go.

Anyhow will keep you all updated with progress!

[K4KEV]

Welcome back Alex....been a while:rolleyes:

[Firehawkslp]

Welcome back Alex....been a while:rolleyes:

What he said!

Good deal, glade to see your going to stay with it. Your build is one of the more interesting & well done builds. Here in the States there's a saying "Dare to be different".
I especially like your choice of power plant. It can't help but be a beast. I always found powerful cars to be more fun and challenging. Will be following your Turbo installation & tuning with partecular interest.

Good Luck & Keep the faith.:D

Roger

[Eternal]

Thanks guys!

I need to make some sort of plan so I can crack on and get things done.

[Eternal]

Right my mission is to get a floor on and chassis painted. To do this i need to do a few things...


Make/fit light stalks.
Plate under steering rack area (think will help stop stuff hitting front of engine while driving)
Figure how to mount pedal box
Fit pedal box
Figure out how to properly mount seat rails.
Fit seats
Build steering frame in cockpit area to fit granada gear
Build/Buy/Fit fuel tank. (With mounting brackets)
Design and build a system for fuel/break lines
As above but for wiring
Paint under side of chassis ready for floor fitment
Fit floor (will leave propshaft area with no floor)

That should give me quite a bit to do.

[HandyAndy]

Welcome back Alex,

Its great to read that your build is to continue :cool:

Will watch your build with great interest ( as always have :) )

cheers
andy

[Eternal]

Nice solution to my cooling problem....
http://www.grsmotorsport.co.uk/westfieldcustom.html
Only problem is the Supercharged Duratec engine puts out less heat than the straight 6 skyline lump. So might need it modified to be a bit thicker. Unless you guys think that one would do?

[HandyAndy]

That looks very nice indeed :cool:

I have no idea how much heat your straight 6 will create but if you were to use that rad then how about making the side panels either side of the engine bay flared out to allow the heat generated to escape & improve the air flow thru the engine bay? just a thought :)

cheers
andy

[mark]

As you say may need to be a touch thicker, depends what power you are going to run? I dont suppose a standard mr2 turbo intercooler is any bigger than that capacity wise and they manage ok in a mild state of tune

You could always fit water injection if you get heat issues

[Eternal]

OUCH that radiator and intercooler is £700. That would pay for alot of kit for the car

[Eternal]

power would be standard would also be running two oil coolers so that should help a bit.

[robo]

The power of the engine has a direct bearing on the cooling needs. If your engine knocks out 200hp it will make the same heat and require the same amount of cooling as a four pot of the same hp rating . All you need to find is what others have used to cool the equivalent. Convert hp into kw and thats your cooling needs. Any decent rad company should be able to advise on that.

Bob

[Eternal]

Interesting. Thinking about it my one would be slightly different. As would be running a larger intercooler and a different skyline GTR plenum. Power would start at around 245 ish upto around 280.... ofc can push it right upto 500ish if wanted rofl but chassis would suffer i think.

[Eternal]

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/MAZDA-RX7-FC3S-SIDE-MOUNTED-SMIC-UPRATED-INTERCOOLER-CORE-80mm-THICK-HIGH-FLOW-/350493873876?_trksid=p5197.m7&_trkparms=algo%3DLVI%26itu%3DUCI%26otn%3D4%26po%3D LVI%26ps%3D63%26clkid%3D6330283911117022469 Possible intercooler that will fit :D

[mark]

Have you looked up mr2 intercoolers?

They are small and fat, may do the job

[Eternal]

After a load of research and a quick chat with Red16 from passion ford.
Have conculded the best option would be.........


RX7 FC3S (http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/MAZDA-RX7-FC3S-SIDE-MOUNTED-SMIC-UPRATED-INTERCOOLER-CORE-80mm-THICK-HIGH-FLOW-/350493873876?_trksid=p5197.m7&_trkparms=algo%3DLVI%26itu%3DUCI%26otn%3D4%26po%3D LVI%26ps%3D63%26clkid%3D6330283911117022469)
16" fan (http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/UNIVERSAL-12V-16-EL-FAN-FITTING-KIT-STRAIGHT-/350485587992?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item519a91a818)
Civic Rad 92-00 (http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/HONDA-CIVIC-1996-2000-EK-EJ-EM-B16-42mm-ALLOY-ALUMINIUM-HIGH-FLOW-RACE-RADIATOR-/230667189987?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item35b4d5fee3)

Pics from Red16's build
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/0903/Red16/Mac%20Worx%20RR%20Build/P1020944Medium.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/0903/Red16/Mac%20Worx%20RR%20Build/P1020940Medium.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/0903/Red16/Mac%20Worx%20RR%20Build/P1020945Medium.jpg

My only real worry is the fact that the civic rad might not be able to handle the load form the RB25DET. Not sure what i can do apart from possibly install a 2nd radiator somewhere or two oilcoolers to help bring down the temps a little.

[MarkB]

I would of thought the rad is never going to get cool air mounted like that, you may need to duct air into and out of it. Neat looking rads though

[robo]

Found ths article and it refers to a water to air charge cooler, never heard of or seen one before but are very compact. there is one at the back of this engine.

http://www.hotrod.com/techarticles/engine/hrdp_0811_lsx_block/viewall.html


Bob

edit found this one which is good for 300 hp http://www.frozenboost.com/product_info.php?cPath=218&products_id=228&osCsid=151083c381395465c339391500bf49d1

[K4KEV]

here is the charge cooler I am going to use
http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr12/gfowa/Haynes%20Roadster%20build/DSC00012.jpg

[mark]

The celica gt4 (94/99) charge cooler can handle a good amount of power for its size, its a common upgrade on the mr2s when you start going towards the 400bhp mark

Just means another rad and water circuit though

[jenks]

When using a ST205 GT4 water/air charge cooler (or any higher BHP charge cooler) you need quite a big radiator to get them working properly, like smal car size... A lot of the MR2 swaps use a Rover Metro radiator! plus there's the extra plumbing/complexity to consider

... For simpicity's sake a nomal air/air intercool would be the way to go. Top mount may be an option if you don't mind having a big bonnet scoop. The later 3S-GTE's in the ST215 went back to using air/air topmounts

[loony]

But there must be reason why top mount air/air intercoolers are often called "interwarmers" - especially in car like Roadster, which rather don't go at high speeds, because of aerodynamics.
So - I think water/air intercooler could be very good way - small and efficient.

[Eternal]

Big thanks to Skov for the great price on the fuel sender. If anyone wants a standard 1.6 mk1 mx5 fuel pump give me a shout!
As you can see a nice Walbro 255lph RX7 GSS342 33911-3 fuel pump. All i need now is the plug for the sender lol

http://img40.imageshack.us/img40/1696/20120307221324.jpg

[skov]

Big thanks to Skov for the great price on the fuel sender. If anyone wants a standard 1.6 mk1 mx5 fuel pump give me a shout!
As you can see a nice Walbro 255lph RX7 GSS342 33911-3 fuel pump. All i need now is the plug for the sender lol


No worries :D
There's a small chance I might still have the plug, I'll have a root through all the crap I cut out of my loom and see if I can spot it.


UPDATE: I had a look through my box of MX5 wiring this evening and couldn't find it :(
Have you tried the MX5Nutz forum?

[Eternal]

Will see if i can find one on the MX5 forum

Nosecone now split and repositioned. Looks quite mean i think need to work out what to do with the center grill bit to split the air between intercooler and radiator. Can now organize the radiator and intercooler now i know how much space i have.

Also decided to go for a 2mm steel floor welded rather than ally.

Anyone see it being a problem with having the seat runners welded to the cross bars but then the bars bolted to the chassis?

http://img850.imageshack.us/img850/1056/20120311151205.jpg

[Eternal]

Pedal box fitted at last!!! Can do seats next and steering wheel. Custom full cage will be ariving next week. Will order radiator and intercooler next week also. Fuel tank should arive in a week or so. With any luck can get the thing running over the next month or so.

Has anyone got a spare Sierra steering column? Will be ditching the granada one.

(Rob and his new toy!)
http://a2.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/425927_10150866271159619_700849618_12655125_165985 9859_n.jpg
http://a4.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/425927_10150866271184619_700849618_12655126_657794 31_n.jpg
http://a6.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/425927_10150866271219619_700849618_12655127_300614 401_n.jpg
http://a5.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/425927_10150866271234619_700849618_12655128_983922 655_n.jpg

[Eternal]

Full cage just arrived from Scorpion Car Parts it looks great can’t wait to get it down to the garage and installed. Will upload some pics soon!

Might i also add that the customer service there is fantastic and has a brilliant price considering most of its design is custom! Full on cage with front and rear hoop rear braces, harness brace, and top braces. WOW is all i can say and the bends are fantastic no kinks at all.

Also getting a custom MX5 fuel tank from them as well yet again another smashing deal! HIGHLY recommend them!

[Johno]

Hi there,
Must say car looks stunning...:cool:
Do you plan to use it for track days or road use or both, which ever it's going to be a handful by the looks of it.:eek:
I see you have a balance bar on your brake pedal but I'm sure I read somewhere that you have to lock this off once set so it cannot be adjusted for the IVA, maybe wrong but I'm sure somebody knows.
Some amazing work you have done there, whats your plan for the rest of the body kit.

Keep up the good work and the photos coming.... Johno

[wylliezx9r]

Balance bar is ok with a lock nut and a pin, and a sticker stating not to adjust it.

I agree its going to be a hand full, my little zx9r engine can kick the back end out and its probably got about a 10th of the torque LOL. Make sure you've got plenty of travel on the loud pedal, thts how TVR used to do traction control :D

[Eternal]

:D its going to be great! Just ordered a load more metal today to make the trunking area for the lines. Also more 20x20 box to build a strong frame for radiator and intercooler. Oh and some 50x25 box to make the seat section.

http://img703.imageshack.us/img703/6375/20120319183202.jpg

[BORNXenon]

One word.....

Beast!!

:D

[Eternal]

Good news! i have found the perfect size factory made intercooler that can take a load of power! Sierra Cosworth woooo heh

http://img109.imageshack.us/img109/8830/20120323180231.jpg
http://img703.imageshack.us/img703/7036/20120323180200.jpg
http://img593.imageshack.us/img593/4254/20120323180221.jpg
http://img696.imageshack.us/img696/3668/20120323180135.jpg

[Eternal]

Steering column fitted WOOOOOOO.... But bit of a bugger as the extention is VERY close to the engine mount. How close do you guys think i can go? Or should i do what i have mocked up in the picture and follow the internal chassis rail then go upto the column?

http://img221.imageshack.us/img221/2568/20120324183548.jpg
http://img193.imageshack.us/img193/9281/20120324183537.jpg
http://img841.imageshack.us/img841/6586/20120324174054.jpg
http://img818.imageshack.us/img818/6414/20120324183523.jpg

[Eternal]

Smart way to mount the front hoop but also add a bit of bracing to the chassis. Somtimes i supprise myself! :D

http://img825.imageshack.us/img825/6954/20120325135523.jpg

[Eternal]

Loads of progress today.

Headlights fitted,
Roll cage harness cross bar fitted.
Intercooler fitted
Prop shaft cage built (by friend) this splits in half to allow you to drop the shaft out.


Quick question.... i will be running the wiring loom and brake+fuel lines on opposite sides but do they have to be one on the bottom and one on the top?

http://img515.imageshack.us/img515/8449/20120401175042.jpg
http://img11.imageshack.us/img11/8285/20120401175127.jpg
http://img213.imageshack.us/img213/4744/20120401175145.jpg
http://img11.imageshack.us/img11/9057/20120401175211.jpg

[wylliezx9r]

There has to be separation between the wiring loom and the fuel lines but otherwise there are no other specific rules as far as I know.

[Eternal]

Cool so running them both along the top of the tunnel will be fine as long as its on opposite sides,

[wylliezx9r]

Yeh that will be fine :D

[Eternal]

Just need a radiator now before i can start to strip down and paint the chassis.

[Eternal]

Expect alot of progress over the long weekend! with any luck should get the column connected to the wheels. Rear cage finished. and radiator installed. Oh and maby the floor welded on!


VW GOLF MK2 16V (NOT 8V! as it is too long) HIGH FLOW ALLOY RACE RADIATOR 1.6L 1.8L GTI
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/180832936489?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649

http://img703.imageshack.us/img703/3293/20120405182848.jpg

[Eternal]

Oh also found a place and bought some 2mm steel for the floor and also a sheet of 2.5mm steel. Both sheets 2m x 1m for 30 quid each. Not bad really! I'm VERY tempted to use the 2.5mm for the floor.

Can any of you guys advise as to the best way to weld it in without having loads of distortion?

[Eternal]

Big thanks for my friends help today. Came up with some fantastic ideas on how to fix my inlet manifold problem. Expect some pics soon!

[Eternal]

http://img198.imageshack.us/img198/3529/20120408161329.jpg
http://img705.imageshack.us/img705/2458/20120408161431.jpg
http://img802.imageshack.us/img802/8923/20120408162228.jpg
http://img40.imageshack.us/img40/8437/20120408164930.jpg

[Johno]

Hi Alex,
Bloody hell you on a mission or what.....Don't you sleep:D
When do you plan to fire it up? Hope you got a big fuel tank for that engine....LOL;)
What body kit route are you going to take with the rest of the car as you gonna need it soon.

Bye for now Johno

[Eternal]

Well rear tub will be a Saturn one. Wings will all be Luego Viento as they have a nice shape to them and able to fit my big rims (rears will eventually be changed to take 325mm rubber)

http://img824.imageshack.us/img824/7344/download1ty.jpg
http://img96.imageshack.us/img96/4049/download2c.jpg
http://img594.imageshack.us/img594/5664/download3z.jpg
http://img109.imageshack.us/img109/2264/download4t.jpg

[Eternal]

Tank has arrived and fits bloody well!

http://img17.imageshack.us/img17/1872/20120413175720.jpg
http://img715.imageshack.us/img715/804/20120413175712.jpg
http://img850.imageshack.us/img850/9421/20120413175800.jpg
http://img189.imageshack.us/img189/1148/20120413175741.jpg

[Eternal]

Any advice on the best way to mount this bad boy?

[robo]

Any advice on the best way to mount this bad boy?

Personally I favour the straps and sit the tank on some decent rubber strips. downside is they do need to be nipped up once all has settled but they are more forgiving with chassis flex. Builds looking good.

Bob

[HandyAndy]

Builds looking good.

Bob

Looks very nice indeed :cool:

The tank looks great, what capacity is it ?

I,ve noticed that you intend to fit a GRP rear tub ( GRP chassis rails fitted)....the GRP rear tub won,t fit with the SS1 parts fitted ( the curved bits just behind driver & passenger outside elbows ).

cheers
andy

[Eternal]

Not sure on the size yet but looking forward to finding out! Might have to start a competition with a free mini keg of beer for the winner!

Ohhh really so there is nothing there at all with the GRP? in that case i will bash it off tomorrow!

[Eternal]

http://a3.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/465524_10150935722199619_700849618_12936216_156458 3388_o.jpg

[HandyAndy]

Ohhh really so there is nothing there at all with the GRP? in that case i will bash it off tomorrow!

No, theres nothing there, that area of the GRP is "sort of" self supporting, its held to the chassis in that area with rivets/rivnuts ( your choice ) down the side of D9 & D10, if you think ahead you can get the fixing points under the rear wheel arch so you don,t see the fixing point;)

That last photo looks fantastic:cool:

cheers
andy

[AshG]

car is looking smart. will have to have a turbo drag out when yours is finished :-) one tip as soon as its on the road buy some r888's or r1r's as they will be the only things that will keep you on the road :D have always loved those BK wheels ever since they come out.

[Eternal]

I will be ditching them after the iva and going for some nice 18" with 295's for the rear! and probably keep the 225 for the front.

I have some special rear arches being delivered next week :D Cant see from the pic but these babies are quite large.

http://img819.imageshack.us/img819/3996/dsc01923b.jpg

[Eternal]

Finished mounting the fuel tank. Looks quite good i think! Thanks for the advice and pics Johno :)

Started working on the plenum as decided its about time i learned how to tig weld ally. Got loads to do so the time in learning will save me a huge amount of cash. I have the setup all ready but i have just been lazy!

Anyhow here is the plenum i have had to cut it up a bit and still have a huge amount more to do as have to cut the 6 tubes down by 15-20mm still >_<

http://img842.imageshack.us/img842/3130/20120415173831.jpg
http://img849.imageshack.us/img849/3214/20120415173755.jpg

[wylliezx9r]

Out of curiosity why are you not fitting the wide arches for IVA ? Is it something to do with indicator visibility or is it something else ?

ATB Dan

[Eternal]

wide arches will be on for the IVA but the wheels will be the ones i have at the moment.

[wylliezx9r]

wide arches will be on for the IVA but the wheels will be the ones i have at the moment.

Oh I had the wrong end of the stick :D I Thought you were fitting two different sets of arches and couldnt understand why LOL

[Eternal]

Like the rear arches? a little different thats for sure and eat up my 18's :D might need a rear 20mm spacer but that should be ok for the iva i think.

http://img804.imageshack.us/img804/1705/47499510150941572744619.jpg
http://img98.imageshack.us/img98/1534/46777210150941571849619.jpg
http://img62.imageshack.us/img62/31/41449410150941570929619.jpg

[Eternal]

http://img842.imageshack.us/img842/8001/46590410150964530144619.jpg

Sad day! Strip down has started. Had a friend pop over to give me a hand yanking the engine out. LOADS of work to do now have to finish all the welding on the chassis weld in the floor and firewall. Then its paint time and rebuild. Also have to paint the engine to make it look nice and new that itself is going to take a massive amount of work.

[michael92]

sad times man! but atleast when you put it back together , that "should" be the last strip down :D

[Eternal]

Just wanted to say I'm still here and started work on the beast again yesterday. Just doing the chassis prep before paint and finishing all those missed welds. Will also install a steel floor at 1.6mm (thick i know but i think it needs it!)

I'm moving house on Friday so need to get it painted by then! Any advice as to where i can get some good chassis paint in Dorset on Monday?

Thanks again! Oh and Btw if anyone is around at all next week and wants to lend a hand for beer tokens let me know! :)

[robo]

Where did the rear arches come from? I need to cover some over sized rubber as well.:eek: Looks like the same wheels I got.

http://i1116.photobucket.com/albums/k577/mypickys/000_0058.jpg

Bob

[Eternal]

Hi Robo,

The wings are from a Luego Viento quite cheap too!

http://www.luegosportscars.com/6.html

[Eternal]

First side of the floor all cut. I LOVE the plasma cutter soooo much saves a load of time and alot less noise. As far as I'm aware all the box section has now been fully welded and now moved onto the floor and closing the sections with little squares.

Should have the floors welded on by end of play tomorrow ready for sanding and paint Tue :)

http://a4.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/279795_10151396057429619_821259968_o.jpg

[robo]

Pic update from other threads.


http://img24.imageshack.us/img24/9089/img0586kd.jpg

It looks like you have a shed load of room down the side of the gearbox. I noticed this on mine and I was going to box form the panel where the pedal box goes to grab betwween 2"-3" more space for my plates of meat. I think the feet need the room more than the gearbox:)

Bob

[Eternal]

Ahh yeah i built it to the MT75 plans as i wanted to have the option of using the small Skyline R32 gear box or the larger R33 box. But you are right it might be nice at a later date to box out a bit more to give some more foot room or even a foot rest heh.

Updates:

Floor on!
http://img696.imageshack.us/img696/9550/20120910132618.jpg
http://img341.imageshack.us/img341/8469/20120910154611.jpg

Chassis half sanded down ready for paint guess what half!
http://img826.imageshack.us/img826/8973/20120911205527.jpg

[Eternal]

More grinding on the rear section. Floor stitch welded on the inside and top of the firewall installed and welded in place. With any luck will get the undercoat on tomorrow.

But cant decide if i should just red oxide it using screw fix stuff or try and find some etch primer then oxide it then household gloss.....

http://img842.imageshack.us/img842/5920/201209121846541.jpg

[Johno]

Hi Eternal....
Good to see you on here again.....;)
I guess you're on another big purge after you're hibernation....:) :)
Robo's right about extending the footwell into the gearbox area IMHO. I did that on my build extending it by about 50mm. If you are thinking about doing it at some point surely it would be better to do it now before painting.;)
With the paint I would reccomend etch primer as it does what it says on the tin.
Just make sure you key the surface up and a thorough degrease beforehand.

Johno

[Eternal]

After a days work with some friends! Cant tell you all how happy i am to have it rolling again! Love how high the wheels are to the top of the nosecone. Its going to look sweet with the arches on the front.

http://sphotos-b.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/230571_10151418429469619_84335599_n.jpg
http://sphotos-h.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc7/304347_10151418429409619_1494650607_n.jpg
http://sphotos-e.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/551928_10151418429519619_1102870741_n.jpg
http://sphotos-g.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/199446_10151418429304619_1377897109_n.jpg

[robo]

Wow:cool:

Bob

[motomaniac]

wooahh, that looks sweet ...

[Dualist]

Looks flippin' awesome.!

[Johno]

As always :cool: :cool: :cool:
Cars looking really sweet buddy.
Hope you're going to put a wheelie bar on that cus that's the only thing going to keep your front wheels on the floor...LOL:D

[jasongray5]

This is without doubt my favourite build!

[Eternal]

Just looks right! :) The car has 50mm lowering shocks and springs but the trailer made it quite a bit more.... saying that it drove from Dorset to Bristol with no probs at all!

http://img440.imageshack.us/img440/3813/77683101514400530596191.jpg

[Eternal]

Hello all!

Just a quick msg to let you all know I'm back!

Right today made a massive list of all the jobs i need to do. Along with stuff to buy lets just say its not a short list!!!!

If anyone around the Bristol area can tig weld ally please let me know as i need some help with my plenum.

First port of call is to get the fuel lines and brake lines installed. Need to work out the best size of fuel line and best way to fix them.

Anyhow look forward to posing some more updates soon! Until then here is a pic of its current state.

http://imageshack.us/a/img195/4078/20130113123535.jpg

[Oscar]

Had a nice long break then, other commitments or lost enthusiasm for a while?

I had a slow couple months before december, put off by the amount of cleaning and painting needed by the chassis! Short break makes all the difference.

I'm looking forwards to seeing some more progress and ideas that I can steal! :D

[Eternal]

Well i just moved back to Bristol and had to spend over a week non stop work on the car to get it ready to move after that i wanted to let the pain really harden for a while so decided to leave it till the new year before starting on it again.

Trying to work out what type of ECU to use i toyed with the idea of leaving it stock but i dont like the factory wiring and all the diagrams are in Japanese as that engine and loom is an import. Soo i think I'm going to go the MegaSquirt route as i have built one before for my old Corolla AE86. Boy have they gone up in price!

My main goal atm is to get the thing running. So Fuel lines hoses and electronics are top of the list atm along with break lines. I'm thinking 8mm fuel lines but not sure about all the sizes as some people have said 8mm ID and 8mm OD.

[wylliezx9r]

Good to see you back ,the forum has been really quiet due to a spam attack. I'm currently converting my car from bike engine to F20C vtec, when I was looking at ECU's I settled on Omex in the end as none of my local rolling roads would touch megasquirt.
Best of luck.

[rapidtornado]

8MM needs to be the OD of your copper tube so it's the ID of the rubber tube :)

[Eternal]

I see just worried that 8mm OD will be around 6.4mm ID and not sure if that will be ok with a 300bhp forced induction car running a 255 walbro fuel pump.

From what i have seen on alot of the skyline owners clubs and forums 5/16 (8mm) id is good for around 300hp

"Up to 250 HP = 5/16" or -04 AN
Up to 375 HP = 3/8" or -06 AN
Up to 700 HP = 1/2" or -08 AN
Up to 1000 HP = 5/8" or -10 AN
Up to 1500 HP = 3/4" or -12 AN"

Something like this.. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Aluminium-Fuel-Line-3-8-x-25-Ft-Coiled-/280927549566?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item416896387e

[AshG]

8mm is good for 350-400bhp easily. i have a 10 bar 300 lph 15mm inlet 8mm outlet pump on mine it then gets regulated down to 3 bar at the fuel rail.

if you get really stuck welding the plenum up then i can do it for you but its a bit of a drive up to kent.