New Build thread

[K4KEV]

Got the chassis right way up now and it will be staying that way from now on.
Nearside floor now fitted and spent last night fitting the diff, went in well with no conflict from pipework.....only thing I had to do was pack out the brake T union to reduce the sharp bending of the pipes.
http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr12/gfowa/Haynes%20Roadster%20build/ABCD0003-5.jpg

[spud69]

That looks good Kevin, very neat. Also like the way you have mounted the diff on the back end to using the threaded insert on the diff.

Keep it up..........Andy

[alga]

Nice touch indeed! Did you trial fit the handbrake cables? Looks like it's going to be quite busy there above the diff nose.

[K4KEV]

Andy....that came from Ash when he was up here and I also drilled two extra mounting holes on the brackets where they face the handbrake ....put it this way that diff ain't going anywhere;)


Albert.....yep....got that to come to but it should not cause me any headaches as they are bending the right way to start with but yes it will be a "busy area"

[K4KEV]

not much done today....only managed to paint gearbox with silver hammerite smooth.
Also had a trip to dragonville IE to a propshaft place called Major & Aspinal and left them with my prop shaft ends to make up a new propshaft
gbox
http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr12/gfowa/gbox.jpg

[HandyAndy]

still catching up with lots of build progress threads after my break,

Very nice work indeed Kev:cool:

cheers
andy

[twinturbo]

Hope your going to be more active yourself ;)

TT

[voucht]

The gearbox looks very nice Kev :cool:
I have 2 questions:
1 - To paint it with Hammerite, did you use a brush, a spray, or an air brush? If you used an airbrush, I guess Hammerite is to thick and you have to dilute it, no?
2 - how did you clean the gearbox (and diff) before painting them? Mine are very dirty (mud and rust I guess). Sandblasting? High pressure jet? Or just a steel brush and your arm strength?
Thanks in advance for the tip, I'll have to do it soon too :)

[twinturbo]

theres a thinning guide on the hammerite tin last time i looked.

I did an engine years ago, had to use a combination of degreaser, brushes and a steam paper stripper.

TT

[K4KEV]

yep I used a sand blaster with some crushed glass then gave it all a good wipe down with celly thinners......I know the hammerite tin will say use their thinners, but I have always just used celly to thin down all hammerite products I have used.
The gearbox was sprayed with a little cheapo gun exactly the same as this one
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Spray-Gun-Paint-Tool-Sprayer-Air-Brush-Airbrush-Alloy-/170890446941?pt=UK_Crafts_DrawingSupplies_EH&hash=item27c9dd485d#ht_4325wt_1139
it's spray pattern is variable up to 2" so there is little wastage due to overspray
two healthy coats and looks as good as new, you are supposed to use a special primer for ally but I have never used it and have had no problems with paint coming off

[robo]

Another decent paint for mechanical items is the engine enamel from frost. It sprays ok and has a decent heat range. Its also a lot more chip resistant than hammerite. ok on brake calipers etc

http://www.frost.co.uk/automotive-paint/por15-ford-medium-blue-engine-enamel-paint-473ml.html

Bob

[K4KEV]

Dug my half built tank out the other day to forge on with that while I am waiting for my prop and crank to be done, so out came the tig and I hope to have it finished by tomorrow......cocked up on my fuel pipes tho cos I routed them thinking I was going to the tank from the bottom only to realize yesterday that I will be utilizing the 200sx's pump and sender assembly, which has entry and return built into the top.....bugger....anyway it gave me a chance to upgrade my fuel pump to a Walbro 255 which is smaller than the stock item yet delivers higher volume/pressure.
anyway here is where I am at with the tank
built in surge tank where the fuel pump sock will sit
http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr12/gfowa/Haynes%20Roadster%20build/ABCD0010-4.jpg
view down to the central baffle plate
http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr12/gfowa/Haynes%20Roadster%20build/ABCD0011-3.jpg
one end of the tank tigged on
http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr12/gfowa/Haynes%20Roadster%20build/ABCD0012-4.jpg

[K4KEV]

bit more of the tank done tonight ....it is now fully welded apart from the vent and fill pipes, also managed to cut out hole for sender/pump assembly
good old fashioned chain drilling
http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr12/gfowa/Haynes%20Roadster%20build/ABCD0013-5.jpg
nearly done now
http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr12/gfowa/Haynes%20Roadster%20build/ABCD0014-3.jpg
http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr12/gfowa/Haynes%20Roadster%20build/ABCD0015-4.jpg

[K4KEV]

Moved on to the sender/pump assembly yesterday ....it needed to be lengthened by around 6" twisted and angled to be able to put the filter sock into the surge tank so I cut the mounting frame in the middle and fabricated an aluminium extension piece to facilitate all of the above. the Walbro pump was a little slack when mounted so a clamp was altered to help make it a lot more solid
Here is a picture of it sitting as it would be if it were inside the tank.
http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr12/gfowa/Haynes%20Roadster%20build/ABCD0016-3.jpg

[K4KEV]

Have decided to mount the tank on with rubber bobbin type mounts rather than the typical straps ....had some lying around so it seemed a shame not to use them
tank protectors made from rubber hose
http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr12/gfowa/Haynes%20Roadster%20build/ABCD0018-3.jpg
upper tank mount (bobbin) tank bracket not welded on yet
http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr12/gfowa/Haynes%20Roadster%20build/ABCD0020-4.jpg
lower tank mount
http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr12/gfowa/Haynes%20Roadster%20build/ABCD0017-3.jpg

[Old Jag Guy]

Good evening! Well, if I can use a U.K. saying..."spot on",Kev!! Your updates are always inspiring! How many gallon capacity is that? I have started my "build", and will be posting pictures soon. Don

[K4KEV]

Hi Don...capacity is close to 12 uk gallons or around 54 litres.....it might be overkill but at least it will put some weight onto the back wheels when full and I won't be gauge watching and worrying where the next gas station is;)

[K4KEV]

Well I managed to complete my fuel tank yesterday.....all that is left to do on that is test for leaks, so it will be out with the brush and soapy water today and a little compressed air.....mountings have all welded nice and accurate in terms of fitment and it is nice and solid, did not think it would take the time that it has to completely finish it.
I am hoping to get my propshaft over the next day or two so gearbox fitment will be the next order of the day which will give me time to work on clutch slave cylinder mounting (which is going to be tight)
here is a few pics of the completed tank
Fill pipe welded on complete with anti syphon shield inside
http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr12/gfowa/Haynes%20Roadster%20build/ABCD0021.jpg

fill pipe and vent
http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr12/gfowa/Haynes%20Roadster%20build/ABCD0023.jpg

pump sender assembly fitted
http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr12/gfowa/Haynes%20Roadster%20build/ABCD0026.jpg

tank fitted but will remove for leak tests
http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr12/gfowa/Haynes%20Roadster%20build/ABCD0025.jpg

[robo]

Kin brilliant.:) 12 gallons is not overkill because you have the choice to run it low for a track day if you want.:cool: Certainly on a run you will be grateful of the capacity. The only change I would make to the tank is baffles or explosafe.

bob

[K4KEV]

Kin brilliant.:) 12 gallons is not overkill because you have the choice to run it low for a track day if you want.:cool: Certainly on a run you will be grateful of the capacity. The only change I would make to the tank is baffles or explosafe.

bob
Bob....It does have a just off centre full size baffle but the explosafe foam/sponge would render the fuel gauge inoperable meaning I would have to use some kind of external clear pipe like an oil catch can.....can't be ar*ed to do that.:D

[K4KEV]

After testing the tank with compresed air I found 3 leaks around the welds which were promptly re-welded to seal them up. Had a problem with sealing the sender/pump assembly ....leaking where the bolts were fitted ....was going to use o rings on the outside but will probably use them from inside the tank, that way I will only need to use one per bolt. so I will be screwing the bolts upwards from inside of the tank then putting shakies (spring washer) on with a nut
Will be picking up my propshaft from Major and Aspinal at Durham.....cost is £100:( which I thought was a bit steep considering I supplied the 2 uj's, ah well.

[K4KEV]

got my prop this afternoon, all looks good but the paint job was a bit naff so out came my el cheapo mini spray gun and was re done in jet black
this means I will soon be fitting the gearbox pretty soon
http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr12/gfowa/Haynes%20Roadster%20build/ABCD0027_zps659b4e29.jpg

[robo]

After testing the tank with compresed air I found 3 leaks around the welds which were promptly re-welded to seal them up. Had a problem with sealing the sender/pump assembly ....leaking where the bolts were fitted ....was going to use o rings on the outside but will probably use them from inside the tank, that way I will only need to use one per bolt. so I will be screwing the bolts upwards from inside of the tank then putting shakies (spring washer) on with a nut
Will be picking up my propshaft from Major and Aspinal at Durham.....cost is £100:( which I thought was a bit steep considering I supplied the 2 uj's, ah well.

On the tanks we knock up for plant we use the blind rivnuts. Just thoughts
http://www.google.co.uk/imgres?q=blind+rivet+nut&hl=en&sa=X&biw=1024&bih=631&tbm=isch&prmd=imvns&tbnid=vk0_GZ4_s3StHM:&imgrefurl=http://fasteners.oemfast.com/viewitems/all-categories-pop-pop-nut-blind-rivet-nuts/-pop-nut-blind-rivet-nuts-pop-nut-blind-rivet-nuts&docid=GAhWMmhWwcvmpM&imgurl=http://fasteners.oemfast.com/ImgMedium/img_pop_popnut_000.gif&w=132&h=189&ei=tZ2JUK_WLqnD0QWEpICIBA&zoom=1&iact=hc&vpx=351&vpy=189&dur=5784&hovh=151&hovw=105&tx=111&ty=66&sig=103173779794186640839&page=3&tbnh=145&tbnw=104&start=35&ndsp=20&ved=1t:429,r:16,s:20,i:181
Bob

[K4KEV]

Yeah those had crossed my mind Rob, but I tried what I described earlier and they have nipped up great with no leaks I think the fact that I used 3mm ally gave enough thickness to tap a decent thread....they were clumsy to fit and tighten up but it worked and that is the main thing, so today I will be giving my gearbox a bit of a flush out....not sure what to use yet....petrol, paraffin, degreasant....anybody got any thoughts on that?

[The V8 Files]

Liking your progress Kev, with regards to flushing the gearbox I'd be tempted to run it for a few miles with cheapo oil in then drain and refill it, I've never liked using flushing agents, you can never guarantee to get it all out.

[K4KEV]

After a few thoughts on the matter of flushing I decided to use some degreasant which is very thin so I used around 1/2 pint and give it a good swirl around inside tipped it out and repeated the process, then tipped the full pint in and did the same .....there were a few bits of metal stuck to the magnetic plug but no more than you would expect from a used gearbox (we have all ground gears at sometime or another).
Couple of days ago I managed to fit the gearbox with the speedo sender being the only fouling issue (whilst trying to move box backwards) but was resolved by removing it then move the box to its final position then re-fit the sender (just).
prop shaft fitted perfectly, so now I must make a start on re condition of engine but before that I will need to shorten the clutch yoke as it fouls the footwell at the mo, I think taking 6-8mm out of the length will render it clear then work out the best position for the slave cylinder. http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr12/gfowa/ABCD0028.jpg

[robo]

All the graft you put in on the parts cleaning and paint has paid off kev it looks great:)

Bob

[K4KEV]

All the graft you put in on the parts cleaning and paint has paid off kev it looks great:)

Bob

worst is yet to come Bob .....engine block and associated stuff:(
decided to to sort out handbrake for a change ......could not decide on slotting the cp plate or cutting cable, eventually decided to cut cable and join. I found a n easy way to join the cable back together, after a rummage in an odds and ends box I came across a buss bar contact from an old distribution board that had a nice handy tab on it where I could drill two holes in to slot the wire into once the two screws were tightened up.....picture might make more sense of it oh and it is not finished yet.
http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr12/gfowa/Haynes%20Roadster%20build/ABCD0032.jpg

[K4KEV]

Got this back the other day after being checked and all journals polishedhttp://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr12/gfowa/Haynes%20Roadster%20build/ABCD0030.jpg
and also finding a set of Taiho bearings mains and big ends off the bay for £64 posted means I need to start the tear down of the engine. I was going to go for ACL race bearings but I found out that Taiho are OEM for some Nissan and Toyota engines

[robo]

If I was you Kev I would knock out all the core plugs and take the whole lot down to the nearest recon shop and have them hot tank it bolts and all. Probably only charge you £25 . That gets rid of all the paint,all the oil sludge and descales the waterways. We got a bupi here and anthing mechanical goes into that. Not as big as this one but about a meter square http://www2.ppauctions.com/_assets/archived/equipment_formerly_used_by_caterpillar_remanufactu ring_services_ltd_21/lot_171_7859.jpg. Nooooooooooooooooooooooooo scrubbing:) :)

bob

[K4KEV]

I would do Bob, buuuuuut the guy I got it off told me he had the head reconned, skimmed, pressure tested. and so far on initial strip down it looks like he was genuine so rather than give me more work than needed I'm going to leave the head complete with cams fitted on the block and get to work with my dremmel and powerfile, so the only work I am to do will be change all the bottom end bearings and a new t belt.......teardown now underway
http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr12/gfowa/Haynes%20Roadster%20build/ABCD0033.jpg
http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr12/gfowa/Haynes%20Roadster%20build/ABCD0034.jpg
http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr12/gfowa/ABCD0035.jpg

[K4KEV]

Having got all the ancillaries, plenum, fuel rail, injectors etc I was surprised to find the engines narrowest point was less than 6" anyway the block was subjected to a thorough wire brushing and with all holes blocked off the dremmel and powerfile came out to play

http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr12/gfowa/Haynes%20Roadster%20build/ABCD0036.jpg
http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr12/gfowa/Haynes%20Roadster%20build/ABCD0037.jpg
http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr12/gfowa/Haynes%20Roadster%20build/ABCD0038.jpg

[K4KEV]

got a bit more done so halfway through this side, its a orrible manky job but it will look nicer when painted.
http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr12/gfowa/Haynes%20Roadster%20build/ABCD0039.jpg

[motomaniac]

cant you use a drill with a wire brush attatchment?... various sizes available, would be quicker than a dremel...... even a flap wheel for the flatter stuff

[K4KEV]

I have some real evil rotary wire brushes that fit angry grinders but they still don't rid metal of all the rust the way a grindstone does, some times they just "polish" the rust so it looks like its removed but then you chip it with a hammer or screwdriver and underneath it can still be rusty......they do work well on corroded ally tho.:D

[flyerncle]

Daft thought Kev,your marks will be no good for the vernier pulleys when you put it back together.

[K4KEV]

aaahhhhhhaaaaa but I will be transferring the marks before I swap them over:p
got the other half de rusted will be getting a coat of engine enamel then lacquer soon.
http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr12/gfowa/Haynes%20Roadster%20build/ABCD0040.jpg

[flyerncle]

No comment :eek:.

Pm

[The V8 Files]

Kev, just imagine you could get paid for every hour your putting into this, even at minimum wage you'd be laughing :)

I enjoy seeing your progress pics, that's a proper labour of love, cant wait to see it all finished one day.

[robo]

cant you use a drill with a wire brush attatchment?... various sizes available, would be quicker than a dremel...... even a flap wheel for the flatter stuff

Your talking to the forums king of parts cleaning here :D what the man cant clean with that dremel aint worth talking about:) I bet his teeth are in a state:eek:

Bob

[K4KEV]

Teeth are ok Bob but I had a helluva tash.....Magnum PI would have be jealous as hell...should have been wearing a mask.
with the sump off I made a few measurements and off came the bottom and I hope to weld it back up tomorrow with a added collar to retrieve some capacity
here is the first cut on the sump
http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr12/gfowa/Haynes%20Roadster%20build/ABCD0041.jpg

here are the parts to make up the collar to retrieve capacity
http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr12/gfowa/Haynes%20Roadster%20build/ABCD0042.jpg

[robo]

If there`s no starter in the way Kev a winged sump is a good way of grabbing some capacity back

http://static.summitracing.com/global/images/prod/large/sum-121002_w.jpg

Bob

[K4KEV]

no problem there Bob, that part of the sump is unusually at the front of the engine;)

[robo]

A man with a grinder kev:) :)

http://www.nsra.org.uk/newforum/showthread.php?t=44641

Bob

[K4KEV]

Nearly got my sump finished will have a fair bit o flapwheeling to do and then a coat of paint
http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr12/gfowa/Haynes%20Roadster%20build/ABCD0043.jpg
http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr12/gfowa/Haynes%20Roadster%20build/ABCD0044.jpg

[K4KEV]

A man with a grinder kev:) :)

http://www.nsra.org.uk/newforum/showthread.php?t=44641

Bob

hey hey... a gadgy after my own heart ,,,,,gladly... I am not THAT obsessive:rolleyes:

[K4KEV]

got my sump finished ....just needs a clean and prep for painting....decided to move my drain plug to one of the wing sectors as I intend to fit a quickvalve to make changing the oil easier also put a new baffle in to make sure there is oil at the pick up under hard acceleration
http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr12/gfowa/ABCD0050.jpg
http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr12/gfowa/ABCD0047.jpg
http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr12/gfowa/ABCD0048.jpg
http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr12/gfowa/ABCD0049.jpg

[alga]

Did you check it for pinholes? I recommend water inside and chalk on the seams.

[K4KEV]

checked for pinholes and cracks using acetone.....if there was any it will find them due to its ability to creep past/through anything.....I found 3 which were duly re welded, any I find once on the car I will probably use JB weld.

[robo]

That must have put back what you nicked of the bottom of the sump + a bit I would have thought Kev.:cool: Just need a bit of 10mm thick plate under that now for a skid plate:eek:

ob

[K4KEV]

About right Bob ...I think it might be around 100-150mls ....gonna have to work out actual capacity once fitted along with oil cooler as the original specification will be well out the window by now.... silver soldered an extra oil return (unpainted T piece) this will be taking return oil from both camshaft galleries... it is my own personal mod .....as I understand at high revs this motor can suffer a backlog of oil in the cyl head that deprives the pick up in the sump, I think it has been done before tho....Got some paint on last night as well, so it is the crank to work on now.
http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr12/gfowa/Haynes%20Roadster%20build/ABCD0051.jpg
http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr12/gfowa/Haynes%20Roadster%20build/ABCD0053.jpg
http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr12/gfowa/Haynes%20Roadster%20build/ABCD0052.jpg

[AshG]

kev little note. weld a 3-5mm plate on top of the tank to beef up the mounting for the pump, if you dont it will always leak fuel as i found out even the sender eventually leaks so worth doing both holes.

also the iva examiner may not be too happy about copper fuel line going through the diff bracket hole

[K4KEV]

Thanks for the heads up on those Ash....will be looking into them;)

[robo]

bump:( bump

bob

[K4KEV]

WTF's been going on:eek: that was some spam attack....ta for the bump Bob but you'd have been at it all day....what a bunch of t**ts, I rely on this forum for a little sanity now I have just lost the plot what with me crank timing cog totally refusing to budge....been at it now for a day and a half wd40 and others, wedges, screwdrivers, a modified 2 leg puller, oxy acetylene hot/cold
I finally got it to move 1 effin milimetre.....had to stop and leave it to stop me morphing into Dr David Banner':mad: :D s alter ego

[K4KEV]

finally finally finally got the bluddy timing cog off the crank.... knackered the oil pump tho (which does not matter since I have a new one to go on anyway)
strange set up the ca18det has a large cast cradle that keeps the mains caps on and also stops any twisting at high torque values which is probably why this engine has really good sturdy internals.
here is that cradle
http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr12/gfowa/ABCD0055.jpg
http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr12/gfowa/ABCD0054.jpg

[robo]

[QUOTE=K4KEV;81351]finally finally finally got the bluddy timing cog off the crank.... knackered the oil pump tho (which does not matter since I have a new one to go on anyway)
strange set up the ca18det has a large cast cradle that keeps the mains caps on and also stops any twisting at high torque values which is probably why this engine has really good sturdy internals.
here is that cradle

They fit those girdles to yank motors to stop the main caps fretting at high rpm. They dampen the effect of vibration and stop the caps walking. 4 bolt main caps do a better job but the girdle is cheaper and more than good enough for a road smoker.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Moroso-main-girdle-22928-sbf-/251155721283

Bob

[K4KEV]

First time I have seen one Bob.....got to mention this....don't know whether to laugh or cry....last week I went to hell and back trying to get the timing cog off my engine, it must have worked out at around 8-10 hours interspersed with lots of coffee and beer and some serious language:mad: :mad:
Today I went down my shed to take off the timing belt on my "spare" engine and for a laugh, I took a couple of screw drivers to see if the timing cog would come off....well f@@@@k me after two light taps with one driver it moved a whole millimeter another few taps and it was off ....total time to do about 6 minutes ( Victor Meldrew moment) and several more exlpetives.
I have managed to prime the engine block with Vactan which is basically the same as Kurust ....looks like milk and turns any rust patches into a black oxide
I'm sure we have all used it at some time or another.....sometimes works sometimes does'nt .

[The V8 Files]

Share some pics Kev pls :)

[K4KEV]

here you go DoS.....you'd think I didn't upload piccies:rolleyes:
first one is just primed with Vactan ....second is with HT silver paint and then around 4-5 coats of engine laquer .....hope to switch to the other side tomorrow....have also decided on the colour of the rocker covers, vernier pulleys and other pulleys and this is the colour I chose http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/250ml-CUSTOM-PEARL-PAINT-BLUE-GRAPE-GUITAR-/170673820022?pt=UK_Body_Shop_Supplies_Paint&hash=item27bcf3d176

piccies
http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr12/gfowa/Haynes%20Roadster%20build/ABCD0056.jpg
http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr12/gfowa/Haynes%20Roadster%20build/ABCD0058.jpg

[The V8 Files]

[QUOTE=K4KEV;82455]here you go DoS.....you'd think I didn't upload piccies:rolleyes:
first one is just primed with Vactan ....second is with HT silver paint and then around 4-5 coats of engine laquer .....hope to switch to the other side tomorrow....have also decided on the colour of the rocker covers, vernier pulleys and other pulleys and this is the colour I chose http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/250ml-CUSTOM-PEARL-PAINT-BLUE-GRAPE-GUITAR-/170673820022?pt=UK_Body_Shop_Supplies_Paint&hash=item27bcf3d176

Aww everyone loves piccies :)

The hours of prep you've put in are paying off there Kev, tis looking really super nice, that blue should set it off nicely, definitely making it pop.

I've looked at their colours before, I like the deep red, and fools gold candy colours but cant make my mind up :confused:

[K4KEV]

Got me bonny blue paint today, so decided to get the nitromors out to do the rocker covers. Even though the cam bays looked very clean I decided to check behind the breather baffles on the inside of the covers......very glad I did cos it the gunge monster must have just been evicted .....it was caked to hell, so if anyone is using an engine with these type of baffles I would check/clean them out
UUUgghhh.....manky
http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr12/gfowa/ABCD0060.jpg
http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr12/gfowa/ABCD0061.jpg

[The V8 Files]

Eww, I'm sure it'l be shiny & bright when your done with it Kev :D

[K4KEV]

not yet shiny DoS but a helluva lot cleaner.
been playing with my mini spray gun again.....these are the water pump
and alternator pullys .....colour I mentioned a couple of post ago.
got the bottom end built up again but need to alter the depth of my oil pick up, and just waiting for a new oil pump from the USA (£60 cheaper than here, even after postage)
http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr12/gfowa/Haynes%20Roadster%20build/ABCD0063.jpg
http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr12/gfowa/Haynes%20Roadster%20build/ABCD0064.jpg
http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr12/gfowa/Haynes%20Roadster%20build/ABCD0062.jpg

[The V8 Files]

Where's the 'Likey' button gone :)

[twinturbo]

Is that the Lydl spray gun?

I picked up one a couple of months back but yet to try it.

TT

[K4KEV]

Is that the Lydl spray gun?

I picked up one a couple of months back but yet to try it.

TT

nah a lot cheaper than that one...this is the one I got
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Spray-Gun-Sprayer-Air-Brush-Alloy-Painting-Paint-Tool-/170671378946?_trksid=p2047675.m1850&_trkparms=aid%3D222002%26algo%3DSIC.FIT%26ao%3D1%2 6asc%3D11%26meid%3D3853386427785531635%26pid%3D100 011%26prg%3D1005%26rk%3D5%26sd%3D180690192199%26

[K4KEV]

Got the old nitromors to work today and stripped my rocker covers, need to smooth them up a bit and move on to priming them.....have also discovered another cheap tune up mod which is to replace the stock inlet cam for another stock exhaust cam coupled with some vernier pulleys can get an increase in mid range power/drivability
http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr12/gfowa/Haynes%20Roadster%20build/ABCD0065.jpghttp://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr12/gfowa/Haynes%20Roadster%20build/ABCD0066.jpg

[K4KEV]

bluddy pleased my thread is still here.....me thinks I will do a hard copy.;)

[K4KEV]

you can have a laff at this one....MAGNOLIA:eek: ....magnolia what you may ask, base colour thats what eh!!! lol I needed a light colour was what I require for the base coat of my rocker/cam covers, I had used white smoothrite on the pulleys but was not happy with it and the only other light colour I had was MAGNOLIA smoothrite so that is why....I think they look quite fetching, yeah fetching the blowlamp:p
got my oilpump from America today so will be torqing off the crank mains and big ends and getting my sump on
http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr12/gfowa/Haynes%20Roadster%20build/ABCD0067.jpg

[K4KEV]

Nice one guys......I had wondered about suggesting moving all current threads in the announcement section to a new or other section but someone has beaten me to it......simple but effective for the time being.

[K4KEV]

Got my freshly skimmed lightweight flywheel back and also sprayed the rocker covers....tomorrow I will be giving them a coat of clear lacquer and shortening my oil pick up pipe
http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr12/gfowa/Haynes%20Roadster%20build/ABCD0068.jpg
http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr12/gfowa/Haynes%20Roadster%20build/ABCD0069.jpg
http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr12/gfowa/Haynes%20Roadster%20build/ABCD0070.jpg

[ayjay]

Those are works of art;)
Its freezing outside but those pics make me feel like going down to the garage and wizzing the engine out to re-do it(almost)

[vmax1974]

kev that is coming together as one very nice build the details your putting in is outstanding

[K4KEV]

cheers guys....that spurs me to keep up my build standard high.
managed to alter my oil pick up by cutting a couple of Vees in the bends then closing them up and silver solder the cuts together.....on trying it for size I have discovered I still have a 1/2" gap to lose....I manage to take this up by prizing the gauze out and then shortening the pipe inside by jut over 1/2" .... the gauze was then cut and reshaped, then nipped back into its original circle, I offered this up with the sump and all is hunky dory now, so with a little luck bottom end refurb should be complete later on today.
mind you I was cutting it a little fine with the pick up......once bolted on there is just 1mm clearance between the pipe and con rod big end
standard pick up
http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr12/gfowa/ABCD0074.jpg

after 'v' ing the bends then soldering them up
http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr12/gfowa/ABCD0071.jpg

just 1mm clearance wher the big end rotates past the pick up

http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr12/gfowa/ABCD0072.jpg

and now with the very end and gauze shortened.
http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr12/gfowa/ABCD0073.jpg

[flyerncle]

What a bloke,even the oil pick up is a work of art.;)

[K4KEV]

Ha Ha Paul....cheers bud....the head mod I was going to do started to take shape a couple of days ago......this is a couple of extra drainage channels for oil that gets trapped in the camshaft covers especially at high rpm and acceleration.
What I have done is drill a 7mm hole in some core plugs at the back of the cylinder head and then turned down some brass tubing to create a flange and some barbs for fitting rubber pipes.....these fit nicely into the drilled holes with some o rings for sealing,...... pressure to seal is applied with some made up aluminium plates bolted on,
I placed some kitchen roll inside the cam covers to stop any swarf from migrating anywhere, when I finished I moved a neodymium magnet inside near the freshly drilled hole and it did a good job of collecting all the swarf on the inside
holes drilled in core plugs at back of cylinder head
http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr12/gfowa/ABCD0075.jpg

brass barbed/flanged drain outlets
http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr12/gfowa/ABCD0076.jpg

ally plates made up to apply sealing pressure on o rings behind brass flanges of drain outlets
http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr12/gfowa/ABCD0077.jpg

[robo]

Nice mod that kev. Thats the same sort of thing done on any high rpm race engine. Gets the oil back quicker, keeps it off the rotating stuff, stops foaming and helps with windage. its all a plus. Are sure that gap from the pick up pipe to the rotating stuff is enough????

Bob

Edit. Forgot to say its looking Gooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooood :)

[K4KEV]

yep ....it had me thinking a bit Bob ....so I flattened the pipe a bit in the middle and managed to eek out another mm so I now have 2mm clearance.....crankshaft scrapers run at a helluva lot less so I thinks I should be ok now ....have also welded the brace back on too.
Got a nice clean cylinder head to sort out now, so I gave the coil rail a good clean.... ca18det engines have a coil for each spark plug, and got that fitted then I moved on to re-fit my nice blue cam covers, also tried the plug cover but I think that might be painted the same red colour as my bodywork, got to start cleaning/painting all the pipework and ancillaries but it is nice to put something on the engine knowing that it ain't coming off again.

nice clean cams/bays
http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr12/gfowa/Haynes%20Roadster%20build/ABCD0080.jpg

cam covers fitted
http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr12/gfowa/Haynes%20Roadster%20build/ABCD0078.jpg
http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr12/gfowa/Haynes%20Roadster%20build/ABCD0079.jpg

[robo]

The attention to detail is top notch kev. That little lot will look the nuts in the roadster:cool:

Bob

[K4KEV]

cheers Bob...got my plug cover done over the last few days and now busy painting stuff and lacquering everything in sight, plan on re-fitting timing belt tomorrow
I am well chuffed with my engine bay colour scheme and would choose it again if I ever built another
http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr12/gfowa/ABCD0082.jpg
http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr12/gfowa/ABCD0081.jpg

[K4KEV]

not a great deal done the last few days....just felt like a good old loaf....so I did
still re-furbishing stuff like covers, mounts etc....moving on to the induction side which is gonna be awkward to clean, but hey if I put anything manky on the engine now it will stick out like a sore thumb.
I did get my vernier pulleys fitted which allowed me to fit the timing belt. crank pulley. and water pump pulley and one timing cover. the other cover I will be cutting a window out and putting a piece of perspex in to keep the verniers on show......here is the usual piccy updates
http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr12/gfowa/Haynes%20Roadster%20build/ABCD0083.jpg


http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr12/gfowa/Haynes%20Roadster%20build/ABCD0084.jpg

http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr12/gfowa/Haynes%20Roadster%20build/ABCD0085.jpg

[K4KEV]

cracked on and got a bit more of the engine done on the induction side just another few bits and pieces to do like alternator, starter and some pipework. I would hope to for a final engine fit within a week, then I can really start putting it all together.
plenum before refurb
http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr12/gfowa/ABCD0087.jpg

http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr12/gfowa/ABCD0086.jpg

http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr12/gfowa/ABCD0088.jpg

[Tatey]

Kev that engine really is a work of art, almost seems like a shame to put it in a roadster and get it dirty!

[twinturbo]

yep that's a sweeeeeeeeeeet looking lump.

TT

[robo]

By the time your finished kev you will be crowned the forums King of bling:)

You have got me going on this clean and paint malarky:eek: :eek:

bob:)

[K4KEV]

dirty Simon! DIRTY:eek: when the weather is bad then it will be confined to the garage where I will just sit and look at it with a silly grin on my face:D

good enough to liiiiiiiiiiiiiiick eh TT;)....well its clean enough to

"Your Majesty" Sir Kev........yeah .....it's got a kind of a ring to it Bob lol
painting bits......once you start Bob, you just can't stop otherwise everything else looks crap
gonna be mushy making the next few days (egay) so be back with updates soon

[twinturbo]

is the eccs badge not being straight would bug me though :rolleyes: like a skwonk number plate.

TT

[K4KEV]

I knoooow ...how the hell did that get past QC:(

[robo]

[QUOTE=K4KEV;87543]"Your Majesty" Sir Kev........yeah .....it's got a kind of a ring to it Bob lol
painting bits......once you start Bob, you just can't stop otherwise everything else looks crap


I am just off to paint my nails:) What do you reckon rattle can or brush:eek:


Bob:)

Sort out the wonky badge kev its making me feel ill :)

[The V8 Files]

Its been a while since I caught up with your build Kev, colours really coming together and looking really good :) :)

Actually rephrase that: Chuffin Awsome :D :D

[flyerncle]

Kev's build and dirty in the same sentence......:confused:

[vmax1974]

kev your build is setting the standard for what we all aspire too with all our builds

[K4KEV]

Thanks for all the good feedback guys it helps lift me from some dark places
Bob why paint nails when the majority of them are in wood ... just paint the head lol
now that I got my little batch of mushies out of the way it is back to the build.
Painted up the alternator and starter motor, amassed all the pipework (lots) and made up a connection for to fit fuel pipe to which has to be high pressure so I simply copied the original from the pressure regulator and made one on the lathe out of a 12mm bolt

http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr12/gfowa/ABCD0093.jpg

http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr12/gfowa/ABCD0092.jpg

http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr12/gfowa/ABCD0091.jpg

[K4KEV]

I had a reel of black plastic expandable overbraid which I have used to freshen all my pipework .....it was all in good condition so why buy fancy silicone ones at extortionate prices when this stuff can tidy up the pipework very nicely ....I thought about stainless, but then when I tried this I thought it understates the engine a little which I found appealing ....you all know me by now and I like to be different/challenging ....anyway this is what I mean

http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr12/gfowa/Haynes%20Roadster%20build/ABCD0097.jpg

http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr12/gfowa/Haynes%20Roadster%20build/ABCD0098.jpg

[twinturbo]

the over braid works well..

As you say no point spending on stuff that is not needed, can be done as a summer upgrade after iVA ;)

TT

[flyerncle]

Does look rather good !;)

[Eternal]

Ohh did not realise that you are running a CA18DET :D Sweet! Great to see another nissan lump here. Will keep an eye on your thread. What are you going to do regards to the ECU? I'm thinking of a megasquirt for my RB.

[K4KEV]

will be running a stock ECU but with a stage 2 chip and all the parts needed to go with it, like a t28 turbo, 3" exhaust/induction, chargecooler ....oh and some water/meth injection.:D

[AshG]

looking good kev, have to say personally im not a fan of overbraid the problem with it is that you cannot see if the pipe is perished underneath, but each to their own :D

[K4KEV]

yep ,that is true Ash, but I cleaned all the pipes and thoroughly checked them and any suspect ones I will be replacing.....up to now there have been 2 with slight splits near the ends luckily these were straight bits so an easy replacement with hose that I already had. I very much doubt whether I will keep the car long enough to worry about the pipes perishing.
I am working on the turbo at the mo....tearing it down and using a rebuild kit, forgotten how much I hate circlips... and a turbo has a few.....once this is done the engine will be going in for the last time I hope.

[robo]

I like the overbraid kev. Have you seen the rubber hose end finishers?
http://www.absngroup.com/hose-end-finisher-supplier-manufacturer-uk.htm
They do come in all sizes and just cover the cut off hose end and braid.

Bob

[K4KEV]

yep....seen those Rob, but I am going to make my own ally ones and anodize them blue or red at a later date, I would really like to try and get the car in for IVA in spring or at least summer so I am going to cut back a little on detail ....well those things I can get away with until post iva.

[K4KEV]

I have been busy with a few other little jobs that needed doing before I chuck the engine in.....made myself a clutch alignment tool for when I am about to refit the flywheel and clutch and also took 1/2 inch out of the clutch release fork as it would have fouled the chassis as was. Now with those done I am just about ready for engine install within the next few days...wuuu..ooooohh

clutch alignment tool out of wood and acrylic
http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr12/gfowa/Haynes%20Roadster%20build/ABCD0103.jpg

clutch fork shortened and rewelded ready for paint
http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr12/gfowa/Haynes%20Roadster%20build/ABCD0101.jpg

couple of engine shots
http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr12/gfowa/Haynes%20Roadster%20build/ABCD0099.jpg
http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr12/gfowa/Haynes%20Roadster%20build/ABCD0100.jpg

[Eternal]

WOW that engine looks mint! Want to do my one next?

Can you do me a favor and list the paints used for different parts?
Red turbo paint
engine block paint
intake plenum

Thanks!

[K4KEV]

Hi Alex.....turbo paint came from halfrauds some years ago ....aerosol HT manifold paint.
block and plenum were painted with Hycote HT paint followed by Hycote HT engine lacquer these were from McCormick tools who are local to me, but who are also on ebay. All aerosol paint that I have bought came from them as it was cheaper than buying paint and thinners, no setup or flushing to do and chuck cans when finished
http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_nkw=hycote&_sacat=0&_odkw=&_ipg=25&_sac=1&_osacat=0&_armrs=1&_ssn=mccormicktools

[flyerncle]

Far too pretty too put on the road !;)

[sparkybagnall]

That engine is a work of art a job to aspire to

Well done

[Oscar]

Phwoar!

Now theres a couple piccies that'll keep me company through the long cold snowy nights... ;)

I agree with flyerncle, far too pretty to put on the road. How about as an art instalation in your garage?

[Eternal]

Great thanks for the info! cant wait to get my one nice and clean :D

[voucht]

That's such an amazing job you did on the Engine Kev, incredible! Congratulations, really nice and I look forward to see it running :)

[Johno]

Very nice work on that engine indeed sir....:cool: :cool:
It'll almost be a shame (sorry a crime) to cover it up...LOL:D
I guess you just keep moving the bar upwards on everything you do...
Keep up the good work.

[robo]

Very nice work on that engine indeed sir....:cool: :cool:
It'll almost be a shame (sorry a crime) to cover it up...LOL:D
I guess you just keep moving the bar upwards on everything you do...
Keep up the good work.

All of that and a bit more:cool:

bob

[K4KEV]

Again....thanks guys.....needed a few days off from the build, hence not much further on until today.....right back into it, engine is now ready to go in. I managed to fit my flywheel and used my home brew clutch alignment tool to fit the clutch assembly.....worked a treat.....when it came to trying to mate engine and box I discovered a water pipe fouling the upper engine bay diagonal so I intend to either shift the pipe or remove it and some corresponding pipework that actually won't be needed. sooooo will be back with the usual updates/piccies
http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr12/gfowa/ABCD0105_zpsab44d5b1.jpg

http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr12/gfowa/ABCD0106_zpsb83c8419.jpg

[K4KEV]

engine came back out for me to "minimise" cooling system.....turns out I could remove 10 water junctions and 4 hard tubes.....a lot of them were to keep the plenum warm in winter motoring....well they were the ones that were fouling so they have now gone and and flow route has been changed a little, that now done the engine went in without a hitch, apart from the customary wiggle wobble jiggle to get the gearbox primary shaft to engage the spigot bearing in the crankshaft.
Its in.....yaaaayy
http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr12/gfowa/Haynes%20Roadster%20build/ABCD0107_zps13a22e62.jpg

[K4KEV]

BOY am I gonna have a headache with this bugger:mad: .....I knew it was tight and I was gonna have to re-fabricate the turbo down pipe but we are talking about a sod of a job and I don't want to cut bits out of the passenger well but I might have to....I can lose 9mm from the turbo studs as long as I recess the downpipe flange where the nuts fit. in fact I will probably lose the studs and use bolts instead, any thoughts peeps?

http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr12/gfowa/Haynes%20Roadster%20build/ABCD0108_zps579bbfa1.jpg

[Tatey]

Could you put the passenger footwell endplate on the inside of the footwell instead of the outside? That should give you an extra 25mm clearance.

[flyerncle]

Fabricate another flange and recess pipe into flange effectiveley shortening the distance between bulkhead and pipe and as Simon says (no pun intended :p )put the plate on the inside.

[K4KEV]

just one wee problem.....it is called U8 and it sits right in the middle so I cannot claw back the 25mm that you refer to.....the picture is a little misleading as I am holding the elbow towards me, check the turbo studs and direction I have marked where they point (either side of U8).....pipe was already inset into the flange Paul but I know what you are on about.....I will achieve the same result by cutting the diagonal line I drew on and re-weld it the flange is big enough to accept the greater length of the diagonal, maybe a little persuasion might be needed but the end result should leave me with the same sq area with maybe a very slight decrease in escape velocity of the exhaust gas

http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr12/gfowa/ABCD0108copy_zps336b79bf.jpg

[Stot]

How about cutting the outlet flange off on the exhaust manifold, rotate it 10-20 degrees and weld it back up.

https://sites.google.com/site/artworkfiles/uploads/twistturbo.jpg

Easier than the cut and shut you have suggested and should get you past the upright?

Cheers
Stot

[K4KEV]

Won't work either Stot, as the compressor housing is only 12-15mm away from the engine block..... won't work up and down either as it will put exhaust pipe joint too low in the chassis......thanks for all the input guys.....I will get around this issue (I hope)

[robo]

Get onto this crowd kev they have 1D rad bends, It will clear that lot by a long margin.http://www.goodfabs.com/
http://www.mandrel-bends.com/fab/3000gt/bends.jpg

[flyerncle]

Bit of a dillema Kev and now I see what you are at,I think I would be tempted to move U8 rearward to sort it if that is possible.

Just read post above,AAS in Lemington and tyrespot will bend stainless pipe.

[K4KEV]

Get onto this crowd kev they have 1D rad bends, It will clear that lot by a long margin.http://www.goodfabs.com/
http://www.mandrel-bends.com/fab/3000gt/bends.jpg

Those are very nice bends Bob but they will be F1 prices, and since I am getting no benefits from the government at all...diddly sqaut I am going to have to watch the pennies and flog some stuff....might make a few long range mx tanks to put on here.
really don't want to cut the chassis Paul.....I am going to tackle it tomorrow if I get my ss bend of ebay.
Started to figure out rad pipework and I am using some more stuff I have lying around in the guise of waste pipe for straight runs see pic ...I tried some in some boiling water and steam and it held up no bother .....will be experimental for the moment....also fitted radiator and protected it with some cardboard, now that I reduced the pipework to the minimum there is really only top hose and bottom hose to fab up
http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr12/gfowa/Haynes%20Roadster%20build/SAM_0421_zps2a0ebf7c.jpg

[Eternal]

I have just cut my thermo housing for the RB engine and moved it so it points forward. Might be worth doing the same? I have a local tig welder and he did it for a fiver :)

[Eternal]

Oh and re the turbo it might be worth seeing if you can cut the flange of the engine side and twist it around so it misses D8 You can also be sneaky and rather than panel the front of the foot well panel the inside instead this will give you 25mm more space.

[K4KEV]

Hi Alex .....had considered tigging the thermo housing but at the end of the day I had/have quite a bit of hosing, so I knew I could cover most routing anyway ....I think I will probably stick with altering the down pipe as it will make the routing of the side pipe exhaust easy, like one 90 degree bend and out the side panel.
Started attacking a problem that I knew would be coming, one of the downsides of getting that gearbox as far back as I did was the clutch slave cylinder of which I did not have was going to be very tight against the chassis....so I do what I usually do...hit ebay for a cheap alternative and got 2 new items for around a tenner, one is a master clutch cylinder from a land rover defender and the other is a Alfa 156 slave cylinder, I got this because it has a very low profile, incidently does any one know the thread of the flare nut on this, I know the land rover is 12 x 1 but I need to find out the slave so I can get Sylvain to make up a short line for me to match the rest.
So yet again ...thinking cap on as to how I am going to mount this in the same location as the original.....so raiding the scrap bin I find a piece of tubing that was once a coffee table leg and the flat bar was also, which I will be utilizing for my wing stays, they are both nice and thick.
So I cut a 2" section off and cut a slot length ways in it so as to provide a clamping action once a couple of mild steel tabs have been welded on, then welded another two tabs on, one to lock/locate and one to mount, as you vcan see from the photos there is no space left in that area so this method WILL work.
table leg as mentioned above with clutch slave cylinder

http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr12/gfowa/SAM_0012_zps6f4e0f8e.jpg

http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr12/gfowa/SAM_0013_zps3af336f6.jpg

http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr12/gfowa/SAM_0014_zpsd9b5dc58.jpg

http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr12/gfowa/SAM_0017_zpsa85e1f30.jpg

[K4KEV]

couple of shots of in situ looking as if you were lying on your back underneath the car, going to be taken off and painted today then straight back on.
http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr12/gfowa/SAM_0016_zps180ecca2.jpg

http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr12/gfowa/SAM_0015_zps188b5fb5.jpg

[Eternal]

Wow that is a bit tight! What tunnel did you go for? I decided on the MT75 and has give me loads of room. So much i can probably get away with the larger skyline gearbox if needed. I have to find myself a slave cylinder but that has given me a great idea mind if i copy it? as the ones for my box are around £90

[K4KEV]

yeah go ahead Alex ...break a leg dude:cool: ....I always think, if it expensive is there a generic 3rd party item that will do the same job, and if that is too expensive then make it, if that does not work ........just sit down and cry:(
I chose the type 9 tunnel as the dimensions of the two boxes were similar but I placed a lot of emphasis on getting the hand to gearstick near perfect .....the cost was tight spaces in and around the gearbox area.....but hey it has not defeated me as of yet.

[robo]

Couple of things kev, First on is the ratio of master boresize vs slave boresize. The last car i converted to hydraulic clutch was a total brain ache, I had about 6 inches of pedal travel (if i wanted to keep the pedals all at the same height at rest) and struggled to find the correct ratio of pedal movement vs clutch arm movement while maintaining a clutch that was not to heavy or to light . Or one that was so light it never released the clutch and one that was to heavy to be practical for driving. Got there in the end but not after going through a dozen different combos of bore sizes. Next thing is to check that the torque movement of the lump under load wont get that slave rubbing and buzzing on the chassis. Looks like you could get a rizla trapped in there:eek: :eek: :)

Just thoughts
Bob

Edit. dont trust that plastic waste pipe kev the stuff age hardens and splits.

[flyerncle]

There is no stopping the Man ! ;)

[K4KEV]

Me thinks I will cross that bridge when I get to it Bob but thanks for the heads up on it....my other headache is now solved, the turbo elbow had a wedge cut out of it and I had a bash at tigging stainless steel, I found it similar to ally except for the size of the arc which can be tiny. So now I am looking at welding on a 90 degree bend to bring it out of the side panel close to the bottom.
Here is my re-fabbed turbo elbow and first time tigging with stainless
http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr12/gfowa/SAM_0445_zps08a670c6.jpg

http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr12/gfowa/SAM_0446_zps3753017e.jpg

[K4KEV]

Exhaust is now coming together and I have learnt a lot about tigging stainless, and it aint as easy as I first thought.....got my 90 degree bend on and will soon fit and weld on a 3 hole flange to fit the outer exhaust pipe and silencer.....one picture is of me just offering the outer pipe up to check any clearance issues and none so far.
cut and welded up
http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr12/gfowa/SAM_0452_zps948041ab.jpg

looking from inside the car
http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr12/gfowa/SAM_0457_zps67ffb7d7.jpg

these two lower bolt are t*ats to get at but do-able
http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr12/gfowa/SAM_0463_zps061af7a8.jpg

and what it should look like
http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr12/gfowa/SAM_0458_zps1322ea6b.jpg

[K4KEV]

Should see me finished the exhaust today.....after reading about one of Jason's failure points, I decided I was going to incorporate a decibel killer into my exhaust while I could, so I got a piece of old exhaust tube blanked off one end , then cut some slits along the pipe and then dinted the tube in on one side of the slit meaning the exhaust would momentarily have to travel backwards before going forwards again which should give a small amount of noise canceling
As you can see from the pictures it is going in before the silencer which will help even more because most decibel killers just go inside the silencer, this will be removed post IVA as I want a straight through exhaust on final tuning, the last thing I will have to do will be a rolled exhaust tip.....will be making that as well
piccies as usual

http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr12/gfowa/SAM_0465_zpsa01cf8cf.jpg

http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr12/gfowa/ABCD0111_zpsa1e46ff3.jpg

http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr12/gfowa/SAM_0466_zps6bf268fc.jpg

http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr12/gfowa/SAM_0467_zpsa349ed6f.jpg

[flyerncle]

Nice one as usual Kev,not a criticism but something that would bug me,the sharp angle of the exhaust exit may be liable to a lot gas cutting due to high temperature gas straight from the turbo hitting the pipe.

You will understand what I am getting at,a liner at that point may be a long term solution.

[will_08]

Jesus Kev

You don't half plod on with your build pal, how do you fit it in?

[K4KEV]

Nice one as usual Kev,not a criticism but something that would bug me,the sharp angle of the exhaust exit may be liable to a lot gas cutting due to high temperature gas straight from the turbo hitting the pipe.

You will understand what I am getting at,a liner at that point may be a long term solution.

yep Paul ....it is a case of suck it and see, wont be of a real concern until after IVA when it gets some welly then I might consider re-shaping the passenger footwell incorporating its own built in permanantly on footwarmer:D

Hi Will.....steady away mate steady away, although you will see some rapid progress over the coming months as I want it on the road this year:cool:

[K4KEV]

After much trolling the internet and ebay last week for a tight radius rolled tip stainless exhaust end and not finding anything remotely suitable, I do what I usually do and make my own....now in doing that it means I can be different as usual. So here is a quick run down of how I made it.
First raid the scrap bin for a piece of 2" stainless exhaust pipe, then give the bit I'm using a polish up and scrape the carbon out from inside, then I give the piece a 45 degree cut then mark out the next angled cut to intersect the first one, now grabbed the first offcut and gave it a bash or two to flatten the steel, now using the 45 degree angle as a template mark out on the flat piece of steel. Now attack with angry grinder until correct shape, when that has I nice fit its back onto the tig table and weld it onto the exhaust tip grind back then polish up with a powerfile ......now to achieve the "rolled tip" I silver soldered a length of shaped brake pipe onto the exhaust exit, the following pictures will make sense of what I have just described.

http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr12/gfowa/SAM_0470_zps7738ba5a.jpg

http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr12/gfowa/SAM_0471_zpsad85e8ea.jpg

http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr12/gfowa/SAM_0473_zpsc9f0098a.jpg

http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr12/gfowa/SAM_0476_zps1eaaec12.jpg

[K4KEV]

http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr12/gfowa/SAM_0477_zpsde0a85af.jpg

http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr12/gfowa/SAM_0480_zpsda28b4f2.jpg

http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr12/gfowa/SAM_0479_zps0dc4a3ee.jpg

http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr12/gfowa/SAM_0481_zpsb12867b8.jpg

[twinturbo]

Awesome work, glad you have finally sorted your Zorst. Love the tailpipe.

TT

[flyerncle]

Kev if you need stuff in stainless bent I have a good contact that does Powerflow piping.

[Johno]

Awesome work on the exhaust there Kev....:cool: :cool:
I really like the outlet with the brake pipe soldered to it..

[K4KEV]

cheers guys and thanks Paul will bear that in mind when I come to fit the sidewinder:eek:
bit of a come down since doing the exhaust...been messing on with the fuel delivery, have fitted a stand alone filter just before injection rail and a Sard FPR to save me doing it later when I will inevitably want to up the fuel pressure, so I have just finished the fuel system from tank to injun and am going to get back to the cooling system as I left that to do the exhaust. Once that is done I hope to chuck the wiring loom on and look for a first injun start at the week end. (trembles with exitement) ....only one pic today.... said refinements above.
http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr12/gfowa/SAM_0482_zps8ba59516.jpg

[Davidbolam]

cheers guys and thanks Paul will bear that in mind when I come to fit the sidewinder:eek:
bit of a come down since doing the exhaust...been messing on with the fuel delivery, have fitted a stand alone filter just before injection rail and a Sard FPR to save me doing it later when I will inevitably want to up the fuel pressure, so I have just finished the fuel system from tank to injun and am going to get back to the cooling system as I left that to do the exhaust. Once that is done I hope to chuck the wiring loom on and look for a first injun start at the week end. (trembles with exitement) ....only one pic today.... said refinements above.
http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr12/gfowa/SAM_0482_zps8ba59516.jpg

Kev, your build looks brilliant. Keep putting up the pictures.

[K4KEV]

After something Bob said about plastic going hard and brittle....I changed my mind and gone for metal tubes between hoses where needed and in my usual fashion.....a rummage around the shed finds me a skeleton of one of those rotary air dryers that the missus condemned to the council tip (not on your life pet) a quick measure of the central pole leaves it tiny bit small but well within what a jubly would squeeze, but just to make sure I cut a couple of strips of copper from a scrap bit o pipe....polish up with a bit o steel wool and solder them on to the ends of the tube to recreate a bead ....I might just polish these up a little and lacquer as is.
cooling system should be all sorted tomoz even got me a nice easy two pin rad stat although I think I will still run it via a relay to be on the safe side.....here are some piccies as usual
http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr12/gfowa/SAM_0485_zps6a011f8a.jpg

http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr12/gfowa/SAM_0487_zpsc0333493.jpg

http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr12/gfowa/SAM_0489_zps85d887fd.jpg

http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr12/gfowa/SAM_0491_zps08d48ecb.jpg

[twinturbo]

I bet you go skip diving too ;)

Nice effot on the pipes...

TT

[robo]

I bet you go skip diving too ;)

Nice effot on the pipes...

TT

There is a womble in all good roadster builders.:)

Bob

[K4KEV]

absolutely Bob and yes TT I have been known to do a little skip reccy or two when they are around.
Not a lot done last few days, just managed to do the compessor side of the induction ......two pipes joined in the middle one side to the turbo and one side to the plenum, no intercooler at present ....that will come after IVA. I am thinking along the lines of "get it on the road first" then I will tweek it to the way I want it
Bob.....checked my clutch MC travel against SC travel and there is about 1-2mm difference so I am thinking it will be ok.
http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr12/gfowa/SAM_0494_zpscf35f123.jpg
http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr12/gfowa/SAM_0492_zps0a79ff38.jpg

[K4KEV]

Starting to move towards first engine start....so a new blood transfusion.....never thought I'd ever see Castrol GTX being one of the cheap oils to run around in a refreshed engine.....I think 500-700 miles then get some proppa stuff in:D
Probably put loom on top of chassis tomorrow and start connecting stuff,
will certainly be giving the engine a minute or so spin minus sparkies, just to get the oil all around the galleries and especially the tub cartridge.

http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr12/gfowa/ABCD0112_zps48e74f17.jpg

[Davidbolam]

After much trolling the internet and ebay last week for a tight radius rolled tip stainless exhaust end and not finding anything remotely suitable, I do what I usually do and make my own....now in doing that it means I can be different as usual. So here is a quick run down of how I made it.
First raid the scrap bin for a piece of 2" stainless exhaust pipe, then give the bit I'm using a polish up and scrape the carbon out from inside, then I give the piece a 45 degree cut then mark out the next angled cut to intersect the first one, now grabbed the first offcut and gave it a bash or two to flatten the steel, now using the 45 degree angle as a template mark out on the flat piece of steel. Now attack with angry grinder until correct shape, when that has I nice fit its back onto the tig table and weld it onto the exhaust tip grind back then polish up with a powerfile ......now to achieve the "rolled tip" I silver soldered a length of shaped brake pipe onto the exhaust exit, the following pictures will make sense of what I have just described.

http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr12/gfowa/SAM_0470_zps7738ba5a.jpg

http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr12/gfowa/SAM_0471_zpsad85e8ea.jpg

http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr12/gfowa/SAM_0473_zpsc9f0098a.jpg

http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr12/gfowa/SAM_0476_zps1eaaec12.jpg

Kev,

The exhaust pipe I bought hasn't got a rolled end so I am going to try using the same method as you. Ie soldering on some brake pipe. (this bit might not even fall off after its test as I know I will rip my trousers on it!!.

My question is do you need a special solder to weld the copper to stainless or can I use standard solder?

Thanks

David

[CTWV50]

I'd use plumbers lead solder. Electrical solder (tin) melts at around 200˚C

[K4KEV]

Hi David....I would be very surprised if any kind of solder would reach melting point on an exhaust tip, but I used silver solder because of its compatability with stainless steel ...trouble is you really need oxy/acet to get a good result or at least map gas, propane will work if torch is mixed with compressed air but not high pressure......a good flux is essential because the steel will readily oxidize....you know where I am if you need it doing.
Has to be a rolled tip for the IVA by the way

[K4KEV]

Nearly forgot that I will need my MAF connecting for an engine start, so I have had to move on to that .....air feed into the turbo was a little problematic in that there is not a great deal of space, so a little mish mash of pipes and I have a workable point from which I can gaffer tape the MAF just to get an engine start, and then plumb it up properly when I decide where to put a cone type filter. I found that welding ordinary aluminium to cast alloy requires a lot of patience and a good handfull of sharpened tungsten electrodes ....got ther in the end though
http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr12/gfowa/SAM_0495_zps5a81e2ab.jpg

http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr12/gfowa/SAM_0496_zps2f078724.jpg

http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr12/gfowa/SAM_0500_zpsfaf1db8e.jpg

http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr12/gfowa/SAM_0499_zpscada9799.jpg

[flyerncle]

It is suprising where the exhaust heat will go even at speed in the Roadster,I was in Spuds car for a few laps at Teeside and my forearm got burnt just resting on the side panel.

Should start without the MAF in a pipe Kev,just plug it in so it knows its there.

[thailoz]

Hi Kev just read your build thread from the start to now...I would just like to say that the standard of your build is awe inspiring , the thought and detail you have put in are really making at roadster of your own,
you have spurred me on to come to the decision to start my chassis build asap and find a donor later .

Great read looking forward to you getting to the interior .:)

Laurence

[K4KEV]

Thanks for that heads up Paul and thank you for the kind words Laurence.
I had forgotten how complex the wiring was.....having to work backwards a bit to remind me how I spliced into the sierra loom, so out with my little 12v tester and multimeter.

[flyerncle]

Leave the DLC in if you can to access the diagnostic's and I can hook up to it if needs be.

I can get wring diagrams if your stuck.

[K4KEV]

fraid not Paul ....they do not have any DL or OBD on the CA18DET engines they are the old fashioned red/green led through a window on the ECU and count the flashes to determine the faults ( had a Cherry Turbo once with the same set up right pita) will need to make sure I place my ECU so I can see that window lol

[flyerncle]

Just a thought,:eek:

[K4KEV]

Had to neglect the build for a few days while I prepped my daily for an upcoming mot tomorrow.... should not have any probs cos where I go are brilliant (Front St garage in Shotton Colliery).
Felt really nervous tonight as it is the first time I have had the loom back on the chassis and I have painstakingly retraced all the work I did in the splicing of the nissan engine loom and the sierra .....so far so good, but a little more work needed on the instrument side of stuff, all I want to do now is see if it runs, so everything together and a couple of nice fat earths going to body and engine I fastened up the earth to a battery and checked with a multimeter if any voltage was to be had in the loom and a small whoo..ooo follows as I find nothing so it was on with the positive terminal and a careful last few checks and turn the key to ignition and look for the magic smoke......nothing....diddly squat:cool:
now the great thing about crank angle sensors that are fitted to camshafts if you can take them off and just twiddle the shaft to get sparks firing and to my absolute joy there they were ....dirty great big fat blue arcs of leccy followed by the smell of ozone .....even able to count the firing order of 1342
well a woz ower the moon like. So it was obvious now what to check in the same way, that was the injectors clicking and after a few minutes I had set that up for the same and away they went clickety click 134213421342......
well this means I can now look to get the fuel pump set up tomoz and get that milestone that is the first engine start.....no pics today but here are some nice blue sparks on photobucket.....click picture for video clip
http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr12/gfowa/th_SAM_0504_Edited_zps57d9c60d.jpg (http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr12/gfowa/SAM_0504_Edited_zps57d9c60d.mp4)

[thailoz]

Well done that man !! I bet you can't wait for that first sound of suck squeeze bang blow :)

[K4KEV]

Well I have 2 attempts at a fire up and both were no go.....I discovered that there was some kind of inhibitor kicking in on cranking via the key so after another few sessions of playing Sherlock Holmes I decided to wire up the pump direct to the battery as well as the solenoid via a small switch and when cranked this way it gave the sparks and injector clicks, so for the 3rd time (I did video the the first two but binned them when there was no action engine wise.
This time it fired up instantly....yeeeeee haaaaaa get in ya f****er and to my joy continued to run albeit a little on the lumpy side an added bonus is the exhaust system is a lot quieter than I had expected so no worries there for IVA
so I am chuffed to share with you all my 3rd attempt at a start with total success ....click the photo to watch
http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr12/gfowa/th_SAM_0506_zps65dbb17c.jpg (http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr12/gfowa/SAM_0506_zps65dbb17c.mp4)

[robj]

looking good mate you'll be on the road before you know it.

[thailoz]

nice one well done

[robo]

Thats a major step forward there Kev, that lump looked tiny in that engine bay to start with, the plumbing has filled any space that was left. Looks kin brilliant:cool:

Bob

[twinturbo]

Super....

it's a massive relife when they fire up.

TT

[The V8 Files]

Awesome :D :D :D

[flyerncle]

Well done Kev.:cool:

[Old Jag Guy]

Looks Great, Kev !! Nice work..............Don

[K4KEV]

cheers guys, you don,t half get a lift from that first successful start.
As I took a closer look at the way it was running, I was sure it was only firing on three pots ..,..on taking the fuel injector lead off cyl No 4 there was no change in tickover ....so switched off and removed spark plug to check that first for wetness and it was so that pointed straight away to the plug itself being knackered, fixed everything up to check and no spark present, checked with a known good plug and totally ok. So this was what was making it run rough, Glad to say, I put another clean plug in and fired it up for a longer test run and it instantly fired into life.....I am well pleased with the tone of the exhaust, on tickover it just purrs like a hefty cat then growls like f**k when you blip the throttle body...... ran it up to temp and no leaks from the cooling system so I can move on to a proper tidy of wiring.....here is another clip of it running at normal running temp.....turn the volume up to see what I mean:D
http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr12/gfowa/th_SAM_0508_zpsc9ced821.jpg (http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr12/gfowa/SAM_0508_zpsc9ced821.mp4)

[alga]

Wow, what a sweet sound!

[CTWV50]

Sounds great now kev, engine looks really good. Nice to see a garage messier than mine too!:D

[thailoz]

To me that is how a roadster should sound well done

[jason]

Excellent, sounds really good.

[skov]

That's looking and sounding awesome!
Keep up the good work Kev, that's going to be one sweet car when it's done :cool:

[Johno]

Good job Kev.:) :) :)
Like the other guys say, it looks and sounds immense (sorry got a son aged 10).
Keep up the good work....

[AshG]

well done kev. you did well to weld that ali pipe to the cast elbow. little tip for the future if you buy some 4043 ali rods they weld cast ali to normal ali beautifully.

[voucht]

I'm amazed by rapidity you finished this engine with, Kev! Sounds so nice, I just love the whistling of the turbo :cool:
As a lot of us, now I can't wait to see your Roadster on the road, it is gonna be one unique car for sure!

I alos like your water radiator very much, it is my conception of "liquid cooling" as well :) . I Hope that at least it is French wine ;)

Congrats mate !

[The V8 Files]

Good job Kev! Sounding good :D :D :D

[K4KEV]

final mounting of the exhaust system is now complete.....basically just a few stainless tabs welded onto the silencer, will need nut covers on of course (hope they don't melt)
Also felt it was time to fit my rear wishbones so I can finalize everything underneath the tank (handbrake cable, pipes, loom).
One downside is I think my water pump may have a small leak, but thankfully they are cheap and only requires the timing belt to come off which I am used to now.....anyways here are some reprographic entities.
http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr12/gfowa/SAM_0503_zpsf95a7f62.jpg (http://s465.photobucket.com/user/gfowa/media/SAM_0503_zpsf95a7f62.jpg.html)
http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr12/gfowa/SAM_0502_zpse38da4a2.jpg (http://s465.photobucket.com/user/gfowa/media/SAM_0502_zpse38da4a2.jpg.html)
http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr12/gfowa/SAM_0510_zps7375cd44.jpg (http://s465.photobucket.com/user/gfowa/media/SAM_0510_zps7375cd44.jpg.html)
http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr12/gfowa/SAM_0511_zps389d1b7c.jpg (http://s465.photobucket.com/user/gfowa/media/SAM_0511_zps389d1b7c.jpg.html)

[Johno]

Well that's looking damn good Kev....:cool: :cool:
I guess it's nice bolting parts on you spent countless hours cleaning/restoring and fabricating and knowing they can stay on this time.:)

[K4KEV]

Well that's looking damn good Kev....:cool: :cool:
I guess it's nice bolting parts on you spent countless hours cleaning/restoring and fabricating and knowing they can stay on this time.:)

Your'e not half kidding John.....1/2 inch behind orgasmic:p
Gonna be fitting up the rest of the back end brake pipes (the porny ones from Sylvain) and then the tank will go in for the last time (I hope).....the local footy derby is on now so I'm off t garage.

[K4KEV]

footy was BRILL....while listening to the match I got on with the rear brake pipes
nice fittings from Sylvain made the brake pipe to drum nice and easy
http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr12/gfowa/SAM_0513_zps9214e213.jpg (http://s465.photobucket.com/user/gfowa/media/SAM_0513_zps9214e213.jpg.html)

My chosen method of fitting the other end of that brake pipe to bulkhead fitting


http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr12/gfowa/SAM_0515_zpsf38e13ba.jpg (http://s465.photobucket.com/user/gfowa/media/SAM_0515_zpsf38e13ba.jpg.html)

My simple "p" bracket made from 2mm Ally that makes sure the handbrake cable does not interfere with anything else
http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr12/gfowa/SAM_0517_zps8faccf67.jpg (http://s465.photobucket.com/user/gfowa/media/SAM_0517_zps8faccf67.jpg.html)

just about all done underneath the tank and everything is missing each other, no chafing anywhere.
http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr12/gfowa/SAM_0516_zps9f19abad.jpg (http://s465.photobucket.com/user/gfowa/media/SAM_0516_zps9f19abad.jpg.html)

[K4KEV]

been quiet for a few days , but have now moved on to finishing my pedal box, had it more or less built before but made the alteration to bring the MC level to the ground also I have drilled holes for CMC.....decided to mount both via captive nuts welded on other sides....hoping to paint it up later today.
here is the slightly revamped pedal box

http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr12/gfowa/ABCD0113_zpsf44678f9.jpg (http://s465.photobucket.com/user/gfowa/media/ABCD0113_zpsf44678f9.jpg.html)

http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr12/gfowa/ABCD0114_zpsab3a7fa7.jpg (http://s465.photobucket.com/user/gfowa/media/ABCD0114_zpsab3a7fa7.jpg.html)

http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr12/gfowa/ABCD0115_zps2282b839.jpg (http://s465.photobucket.com/user/gfowa/media/ABCD0115_zps2282b839.jpg.html)

[K4KEV]

Got some paint on my pedal box and it looks much nicer now..... over the next few days I'm gonna be starting to put it together ready for fitting in the car
looking like an Airfix kit....now wheres me polystyrene cement:p
http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr12/gfowa/SAM_0521_zps03e75a7d.jpg (http://s465.photobucket.com/user/gfowa/media/SAM_0521_zps03e75a7d.jpg.html)

http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr12/gfowa/SAM_0522_zps51b9b671.jpg (http://s465.photobucket.com/user/gfowa/media/SAM_0522_zps51b9b671.jpg.html)

http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr12/gfowa/SAM_0523_zps79f91a4f.jpg (http://s465.photobucket.com/user/gfowa/media/SAM_0523_zps79f91a4f.jpg.html)

[K4KEV]

Starting to put these together now....have made a simple Clevis from a piece of rectangular table leg that had the correct dimensions and it has made the clutch really smooth to operate which was quite a surprise.....so I am going to replicate it with the brake pedal.....accelerator pedal I am having a rethink about as I might use the 200sx's pedal to match the cable and throttle linkage, work in progress that one.

http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr12/gfowa/SAM_0524_zps7cb17d4d.jpg (http://s465.photobucket.com/user/gfowa/media/SAM_0524_zps7cb17d4d.jpg.html)

http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr12/gfowa/SAM_0526_zps51d5f3ed.jpg (http://s465.photobucket.com/user/gfowa/media/SAM_0526_zps51d5f3ed.jpg.html)

http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr12/gfowa/SAM_0525_zps4812f9a5.jpg (http://s465.photobucket.com/user/gfowa/media/SAM_0525_zps4812f9a5.jpg.html)

[K4KEV]

decided to re-hash my clutch slave as it was desparately close to the chassis, I was able to reposition the slave cylinder holder using a gearbox bolt and an additional hole and a longer pushrod (in red)

http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr12/gfowa/SAM_0531_zps1bb2a1a0.jpg (http://s465.photobucket.com/user/gfowa/media/SAM_0531_zps1bb2a1a0.jpg.html)

http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr12/gfowa/SAM_0532_zpsc931e373.jpg (http://s465.photobucket.com/user/gfowa/media/SAM_0532_zpsc931e373.jpg.html)

[K4KEV]

I have decided to change my accelerator set up by altering the nissan stock item so as to match up with the accelerator cable.
here it is before I get around to fitting it

http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr12/gfowa/SAM_0534_zps9870bf02.jpg (http://s465.photobucket.com/user/gfowa/media/SAM_0534_zps9870bf02.jpg.html)

[SeriesLandy]

Looking great as normal Kev you really have a great eye for detail, please tell me your going to replace the roofing nuts with something a little nicer? Everything else looks so good it would be a shame not too.

[K4KEV]

they are all just normal nylocs Steve....anyway all I want at the mo is to get it IVA'd this year and soon, so I can get a little fun out of it before the autumn sets in, then I will be doing lots of mods over the winter:D

[K4KEV]

Got my accelerator fitted and matched up to cable and also decided to use double sided foam tape to seal my pedal box in so that will be getting fitted today.

http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr12/gfowa/SAM_0535_zps30274774.jpg (http://s465.photobucket.com/user/gfowa/media/SAM_0535_zps30274774.jpg.html)

http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr12/gfowa/SAM_0536_zps27ba81b3.jpg (http://s465.photobucket.com/user/gfowa/media/SAM_0536_zps27ba81b3.jpg.html)

[K4KEV]

pedal box now in and bolted up for good I hope....have also fitted my clutch and brake master cylinders so finishing the braking system might be the order of today.....they both have a very smooth action but will feel different once there is fluid in them

http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr12/gfowa/SAM_0538_zpsc74ef133.jpg (http://s465.photobucket.com/user/gfowa/media/SAM_0538_zpsc74ef133.jpg.html)

http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr12/gfowa/SAM_0537_zps883a8fe9.jpg (http://s465.photobucket.com/user/gfowa/media/SAM_0537_zps883a8fe9.jpg.html)

http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr12/gfowa/SAM_0540_zps01e6e48a.jpg (http://s465.photobucket.com/user/gfowa/media/SAM_0540_zps01e6e48a.jpg.html)

http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr12/gfowa/SAM_0539_zpse228c300.jpg (http://s465.photobucket.com/user/gfowa/media/SAM_0539_zpse228c300.jpg.html)

[thailoz]

Looking nice kev

Just one comment tho that flexy coming of your MC as an ex MOT tester all be it many years ago looks a bit suspect

[K4KEV]

ha ha Lawrence ...gud un...they are just the old fittings parked there to stop any dirt ingress, the rest of Sylvains specials (Exact) are being fitted tonight so dont you worry yourself now;)

[flyerncle]

Shame on you Lawrence,the man would not even think of it. :p

[K4KEV]

a naw Paul.... we dis e think e is like lol
only meant to do a few things today, then before I knew it I had just about thrown the left hand front suspension on, has certainly given me a little lift.
anybody know what size/thread nut is used on the track rod end (sierra) as I don't seem to have been supplied with any

http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr12/gfowa/SAM_0542_zpsa1dcabc9.jpg (http://s465.photobucket.com/user/gfowa/media/SAM_0542_zpsa1dcabc9.jpg.html)

http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr12/gfowa/SAM_0543_zpscff0850c.jpg (http://s465.photobucket.com/user/gfowa/media/SAM_0543_zpscff0850c.jpg.html)

http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr12/gfowa/SAM_0544_zps95e1210c.jpg (http://s465.photobucket.com/user/gfowa/media/SAM_0544_zps95e1210c.jpg.html)

[Johno]

Very nice indeed...:D
Is everybody taking something I don't know about or what.....:confused:
You all seem to be going "Hell for leather" with your builds or is it because the Suns popped it's head out and the back roads are calling you all....
Me thinks I need to pull my finger out and try to catch up with you lot...:eek:

[thailoz]

Shame on you Lawrence,the man would not even think of it. :p

ok head hung in shame lol
:o

[flyerncle]

you dont know him lawrence !!!;)

Thought you would like that Kev.;)

[K4KEV]

Are you saying I am a tad fussy Paul....the first piccy is just for you Lawrence.
decided to put my roll bar on as is was probably the safest place for it, needless to say the holes did not match up and it needed a little persuasion to get the bolts in.

http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr12/gfowa/SAM_0546_zpse94724ae.jpg (http://s465.photobucket.com/user/gfowa/media/SAM_0546_zpse94724ae.jpg.html)

http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr12/gfowa/SAM_0547_zps730596a2.jpg (http://s465.photobucket.com/user/gfowa/media/SAM_0547_zps730596a2.jpg.html)

http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr12/gfowa/SAM_0549_zps962b7aa7.jpg (http://s465.photobucket.com/user/gfowa/media/SAM_0549_zps962b7aa7.jpg.html)

http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr12/gfowa/SAM_0550_zpsfda0fa37.jpg (http://s465.photobucket.com/user/gfowa/media/SAM_0550_zpsfda0fa37.jpg.html)

[thailoz]

Thanks Kev I can sleep now :D

As I’ve said before great looking car hope mine will be up to that standard.

[flyerncle]

How much is a tad ?:p

Eye for detail and you know what you want......need I say more.:cool:

[K4KEV]

cheers Paul...anyways....time to start chucking some fg bits on.....started where everybody else does .....nosecone find it is a nice tight fit and even managed to get enough under the front to get some twin thread self tappers in.....same on the top so now I have that held on I can now measure up for the bonnet, scuttle and firewall.

http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr12/gfowa/SAM_0556_zps8cbb20b0.jpg (http://s465.photobucket.com/user/gfowa/media/SAM_0556_zps8cbb20b0.jpg.html)

http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr12/gfowa/SAM_0560_zpsdb6741fd.jpg (http://s465.photobucket.com/user/gfowa/media/SAM_0560_zpsdb6741fd.jpg.html)

http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr12/gfowa/SAM_0561_zpse917908e.jpg (http://s465.photobucket.com/user/gfowa/media/SAM_0561_zpse917908e.jpg.html)

[alga]

I would use rivnuts for the nose, it goes on and off way too often. Or is the thread cut by self-tappers strong enough?

[K4KEV]

I would agree with you totally if the self tappers I am using were ordinary but they are not, they have a twin screw design so I am drilling a 3mm hole and the screws are 5mm so they give away a whole 2mm to the holding thread, I only need to be careful where they are near a weld as the metal is slightly tempered, in which case I use one to cut a thread then discard it and use a new one to hold.
Rear panel and a side to go on today so pretty much flying at the mo and really enjoying seeing it evolve into a Roadster.

[deezee]

My nose cone is held on with 4 x M5 cap head bolts, going into some rivnuts. Hasn't even needed tweaking in several hundred miles and motorway speeds.

[K4KEV]

I know what you are saying DZ but it is just the way I like to do things and it is not usually run o the mill....I know it would have been just as good to use rivnuts ....it is just my mindset that I like to have fasteners along full lengths more fool me for giving myself extra work:( :(

[K4KEV]

Almost got my rear tub ready to fit just clamped at the mo and as soon as I have done that the side panels will be next
http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr12/gfowa/SAM_0562_zps4225ff9a.jpg (http://s465.photobucket.com/user/gfowa/media/SAM_0562_zps4225ff9a.jpg.html)

[Johno]

I know what you are saying DZ but it is just the way I like to do things and it is not usually run o the mill....I know it would have been just as good to use rivnuts ....it is just my mindset that I like to have fasteners along full lengths more fool me for giving myself extra work:( :(

Blumin heck, that definitely won't be coming off anytime soon...:)
The only thing I would say is it would make it harder to adjust with so many fixings if needed.

Cars looking great and really coming on.:cool:

[K4KEV]

Well at the minute Johno I am only putting two end and one mid point fasteners so as to get everything lined up and flush .....but I hope the final fit of stuff won't require any removal (yeah like that will happen) well maybe once:rolleyes: :rolleyes:

[twinturbo]

Do the FG side panels fit under the nose? the Saturn ones do so they need fitting before the nose.

TT

[K4KEV]

Yeah TT I have found out the hard way.....measured and drilled holes to suit nosecone to chassis sitting flush.....so those holes will be getting elongated to suit chassis WITH side panels fitted. Also found out the side panels would not fit very well where the chassis has the cranked angle is at the floor sector ....this was down to the 3mm ally floor I am using, just too thick, so I have had to cut away a section of side panel where it goes around and up to the floor then use rivets on the side to pull it onto the chassis.....not ideal but has done the job.
Both side panels now fitted and will be moving onto the rear panel which be removable due to the tank.

http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr12/gfowa/SAM_0563_zps3f6aee3c.jpg (http://s465.photobucket.com/user/gfowa/media/SAM_0563_zps3f6aee3c.jpg.html)

http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr12/gfowa/SAM_0565_zps19ad2413.jpg (http://s465.photobucket.com/user/gfowa/media/SAM_0565_zps19ad2413.jpg.html)

http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr12/gfowa/SAM_0564_zps663d0a05.jpg (http://s465.photobucket.com/user/gfowa/media/SAM_0564_zps663d0a05.jpg.html)

[SeriesLandy]

What double sides tape have you used between the chassis and side panels?

When you make the cutouts for the rear shocks, I made the tops quite low and for the springs caught on the rear tub. I ended up makin the shock cutout much taller but below the wing height.
Also if you plan it right you can get the wings to bolt to the chassis (I used rivnuts) in most places so you don't end up double fixing the tub and wings.

[twinturbo]

Yeah I had to cut the lower lip of the side panels too.

My fitting procedure went.

Side pannels,
Scuttle,
Nose,
Tub,
Arches,

Remember to level the rear of the car when fitting the tub and arches.

TT

[K4KEV]

Steve.....it was just regular double sided tape that was about 5mm thick and about 10mm wide and made of a kind of neoprene.....basically I used it only because it was there, but then again I did not want the fg panels to be a nightmare to remove if damaged which would be the case if I had used Sikaflex, so it was a no brainer for me.
As for the cut out on the rear tub, I have chosen to go all the way back to the chassis .....I figure muck will get everywhere regardless and yes I was planning on trying to tie in as many fasteners as possible to be dual purpose.
I might use the DS tape for mounting my wheel arches as well as is does compress very well and gives an excellent seal while allowing a little be of "give" that might mean the difference between a crack, split or nothing with a gentle impact.

Cheers TT..the arches I am just going to put where everybody else has which is tip to tip to the edges of the chassis/tub.

[flyerncle]

Looking good Kev,what are the stands you are using to hold chassis up.

[K4KEV]

just foldable el cheapo's from Aldi.....I figure they have to be good for 250-300 kg each, but I am not far from chucking it onto its wheels anyway, they have been great for working on it at stomach/chest level and of course working underneath......you know I am no lightweight and I was in it yesterday so they are much stronger than they look.:D

[flyerncle]

Cheers Kev will keep a look out for them.;)

[K4KEV]

offered up the rear tub last night and as with everything else it needed a wee bit o fettling to get it sitting right......also chucked a wheel o the front to see what it looked like .....ahhh the simple things in life give you pleasure :rolleyes:

http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr12/gfowa/SAM_0566_zps8f826c1a.jpg (http://s465.photobucket.com/user/gfowa/media/SAM_0566_zps8f826c1a.jpg.html)

http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr12/gfowa/SAM_0570_zps0f28e8e4.jpg (http://s465.photobucket.com/user/gfowa/media/SAM_0570_zps0f28e8e4.jpg.html)

[K4KEV]

had to change my front brake pipe set up, because I initially had it fixed on a piece of ally riveted to one of the front wishbone supports.....now I have the bulkhead joint into the side panel

http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr12/gfowa/SAM_0571_zpsa78da0f3.jpg (http://s465.photobucket.com/user/gfowa/media/SAM_0571_zpsa78da0f3.jpg.html)

http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr12/gfowa/SAM_0573_zpsddaaeaed.jpg (http://s465.photobucket.com/user/gfowa/media/SAM_0573_zpsddaaeaed.jpg.html)

[K4KEV]

Trial fit of rear arch.....thought it would be easy, but it was as fiddly as hell, not fully bolting up yet as I want to do a full fuel tank check before I fit all the back end.

http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr12/gfowa/SAM_0568_zpsda9a9251.jpg (http://s465.photobucket.com/user/gfowa/media/SAM_0568_zpsda9a9251.jpg.html)

http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr12/gfowa/SAM_0569_zps993ac9ad.jpg (http://s465.photobucket.com/user/gfowa/media/SAM_0569_zps993ac9ad.jpg.html)

[SeriesLandy]

Yeah putting the rear arches on is a right pita. Took me ages but its worth the effort in the end.
Your build is looking great and iva can't be far off now!

[flyerncle]

Not long now.......;)

[robo]

All the attention to detail has paid off big time kev. :cool: :cool: :cool:

bob

[K4KEV]

cheers guys but keep a had of yer horses yet ......got the bluddy dash to sort out yet an leets an stuff:D

[K4KEV]

Having never liked the front cycle wing stays I am going to set about a nice sturdy pair of my own design and as usual it will be bits of scrap I have lying around.....this time it will come from a scrapped glass top coffee table that got dismantled after the glass broke and as usual I kept it thinking that will come in handy sometime well now is the time.

http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr12/gfowa/SAM_0575_zps3307d9ab.jpg (http://s465.photobucket.com/user/gfowa/media/SAM_0575_zps3307d9ab.jpg.html)

[flyerncle]

Point of interest,5mm flat was substituted for 3mm on the original from the book as it flexes like a bugga when you are driving.

Nothing to a man of your calibra Kev.

[ayjay]

I am going to remake mine at some time in the near future. They are just a blur at speed because they flap about so much. Anyone about to make their wing stays needs to be aware that the design really needs beefing up.3mm for the bits that the wing fixes to is just not enough.

[K4KEV]

Well those bits I am using are 6mm thick so they should not flex at all if very little....started by cutting them roughly to the dimensions I need and will be tacking them up in situ so that all I will need to do is put a generous layer of sikaflex on top and then put cycle wing on, set it up exact and leave to set, then I will be using several layers of fibreglass to make sure they don't come off
here is a start
http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr12/gfowa/SAM_0577_zps090cd051.jpg (http://s465.photobucket.com/user/gfowa/media/SAM_0577_zps090cd051.jpg.html)
http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr12/gfowa/SAM_0578_zpsd79bd125.jpg (http://s465.photobucket.com/user/gfowa/media/SAM_0578_zpsd79bd125.jpg.html)

[ayjay]

Welding the stays in situ is a great idea - they are a pig to get right;)

[K4KEV]

Yeah.... I thought they would be, but the other reason for putting them together in situ is that I have only 1.5-2mm to play with when it comes to fitting the wings because I think am going to go with 215 tyres or maybe 205's not 100% sure on that one yet......got lhs all tacked/welded up ready to grind back and paint.
http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr12/gfowa/SAM_0579_zps60ba0a35.jpg (http://s465.photobucket.com/user/gfowa/media/SAM_0579_zps60ba0a35.jpg.html)

http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr12/gfowa/SAM_0580_zpsd0ab7360.jpg (http://s465.photobucket.com/user/gfowa/media/SAM_0580_zpsd0ab7360.jpg.html)

[skov]

They look nice and sturdy!
I wish I'd made mine out of 6mm in hindsight. They're flapping all over the place just driving up and down my drive :rolleyes:

You'll soon be done at this rate, keep up the good work!

[robo]

+1 on this. Nothing worse than flapping wings. I did not realize how limited the places of attachment for these brackets was. :eek: Being a forging and weldable I am surprised no one added a lug or two to the upright .

Bob

[K4KEV]

That a good suggestion Bob ....especially to those who have not refurbed their hubs yet.
Well I have got them welded and ground back ready for paint, also nearly forgot about the lock nut on the upper wishbones both front and back, so front one I made up out of a piece of tapped out round bar I had left over from making the wishbones and ground a couple of flats on them.....the rear ones I made from cutting a large nut in half and facing them off in the lathe.

http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr12/gfowa/SAM_0583_zps26be1c3d.jpg (http://s465.photobucket.com/user/gfowa/media/SAM_0583_zps26be1c3d.jpg.html)

http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr12/gfowa/SAM_0576_zps9816b2bc.jpg (http://s465.photobucket.com/user/gfowa/media/SAM_0576_zps9816b2bc.jpg.html)

[SeriesLandy]

The wingstays look great kev, ill be stealing that idea for myself.
How have you stopped the stays rotating on the bolt?

[K4KEV]

I will probably just put a suitabley sized bit of timber between stays and tyre/wheel and only tighten the bolt head or nut....have just painted them red and as soon as it is dry I am going to refit and sikaflex the cycle wing on.

[K4KEV]

nearly ready to clag on the wings, but before I do they need a little tweek here and there, but here is what the final result will look like.

http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr12/gfowa/SAM_0588_zpsfc9647f5.jpg (http://s465.photobucket.com/user/gfowa/media/SAM_0588_zpsfc9647f5.jpg.html)

http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr12/gfowa/SAM_0590_zps8027292d.jpg (http://s465.photobucket.com/user/gfowa/media/SAM_0590_zps8027292d.jpg.html)

http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr12/gfowa/SAM_0589_zpsc48bf631.jpg (http://s465.photobucket.com/user/gfowa/media/SAM_0589_zpsc48bf631.jpg.html)

[robo]

As usual kev SUPERB :cool: . I bet that wont rattle about, sometimes you have to throw away the weight saving crap and go for some strength.

Bob

[K4KEV]

Got to say Bob ....they are heavier than I expected so I think at a later date I will be going the carbon fibre route, but yes they are solid......going to glass the under side today maybe 4-5 layers of 300gsm CSM. At least I will have avoided the nut/bolt/rivet showing on the outside.

[Tatey]

Kev in the future when you come to use carbon wing stays (if you do decide to go that route) you can use big headed fasteners, they are quite expensive but would allow your wing to be removed from the stays without passing a bolt through the wing.

http://www.bighead.co.uk/english/products/standardbigheads.html

[Dualist]

Looks a bit close to the side wall but bloody nice though :)

[K4KEV]

Simon Simon Simon!!!!!!!!!!! do you really think that ME MOI I would BUY something like that when its just a penny wesher with a bit o allthread soldered on lol.....you ought to no me better than that lol but thanks for the heads up on that one.

dualist.....it is to be honest.... but I can get some movement outwards, once I'm through the IVA

[K4KEV]

Got the stays sikaflexed to the cycle wing and did some fibreglassing over the stays to reduce any chance of them parting company when in use......going to get a couple of layers unsderseal on today and then I suppose I will have to make the other ones.
Also found a pinhole in my tank (shock horror) when I tried to fill it up via a jerry can... so I tackled that last night wit a dollop of JB weld....will put another small dollop over that today and check for leak tonight.

http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr12/gfowa/SAM_0592_zps26327278.jpg (http://s465.photobucket.com/user/gfowa/media/SAM_0592_zps26327278.jpg.html)

http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr12/gfowa/SAM_0594_zpsc79aa6a0.jpg (http://s465.photobucket.com/user/gfowa/media/SAM_0594_zpsc79aa6a0.jpg.html)

[K4KEV]

undersealed and put to one side to wait for edging.
now turned my attention to brake switch, which was a very simple straightforward case of mounting a push to break switch somewhere so that the brake pedal pushes it to close the circuit (no brake light) and opens the circuit when pushed......any way the piccies say it all.

http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr12/gfowa/SAM_0597-Copy_zpsfd363117.jpg (http://s465.photobucket.com/user/gfowa/media/SAM_0597-Copy_zpsfd363117.jpg.html)

http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr12/gfowa/SAM_0599-Copy_zps7d69982c.jpg (http://s465.photobucket.com/user/gfowa/media/SAM_0599-Copy_zps7d69982c.jpg.html)

http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr12/gfowa/SAM_0600-Copy_zps2883d7f2.jpg (http://s465.photobucket.com/user/gfowa/media/SAM_0600-Copy_zps2883d7f2.jpg.html)

[ayjay]

I had something like that brake switch but changed it for a hydraulic pressure switch. I was a bit concerned that Mr IVA man may not like the wiring around the brake pedal . However I suppose its a common thing in many production cars.:o

[K4KEV]

AJ.... wire will be covered and taped to either front firewall or tranny tunnel, the switch itself was a brake light switch of my Nissan so I see no reason why it should fail:confused:
I put 35 litres of fuel in the tank yesterday and pleased to say no more leaks and the JB weld repair is sound so my next job is fit the rear tub semi permanantly.

JB weld repair.....two healthy dollops

http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr12/gfowa/SAM_0602_zps47517a13.jpg (http://s465.photobucket.com/user/gfowa/media/SAM_0602_zps47517a13.jpg.html)

[K4KEV]

Hi Peeps ....had a few days off from the build, just felt I needed a break and it has done me the world of good .....I think sometimes you can go hell for leather too much and it can cause you to make mistakes.
Anyways ....I was not too happy with my brake pipe arrangement under the tank, when I planned them I did not take into account the HB cable, and two fuel pipes being crammed into one small area, so I decided to make a short cupro nickel pipe and have my t piece just behind the diff .....all done now and much happier now I have better clearance between pipes.
Also have made a start on ally panelling inside rear bit first....will get that riveted in tomorrow.
slightly off topic.....gonna be enjoying a few drinks in the sunshine over the next few weeks.....just finished a 25 litre wash (alcohol) of 20% ABV at around 40p litre
http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr12/gfowa/SAM_0612_zps3973581d.jpg (http://s465.photobucket.com/user/gfowa/media/SAM_0612_zps3973581d.jpg.html)

http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr12/gfowa/SAM_0611_zpsa9153acc.jpg (http://s465.photobucket.com/user/gfowa/media/SAM_0611_zpsa9153acc.jpg.html)

http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr12/gfowa/SAM_0615_zps8cf7b5cb.jpg (http://s465.photobucket.com/user/gfowa/media/SAM_0615_zps8cf7b5cb.jpg.html)

http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr12/gfowa/SAM_0617_zpsa13af925.jpg (http://s465.photobucket.com/user/gfowa/media/SAM_0617_zpsa13af925.jpg.html)

[robo]

Thats one serious quantity of hooch kev , go steady:eek:

Bob

[K4KEV]

Thats nowt Bob, I nearly always put another one on the go after I have bottled up......turbo yeasts and activated carbon have made home brew so easy....you dont even need as much sterilisation as the alcohol is strong enough to kill spoilage organisms:D :D