i see, this could be a good idea, can easily get donor registration then

Have a look through my blog, I've done just what your asking and had it running on bike carbs and 'jolt. Moving over to 'squirt and bike TB's as we speak:)

Steve

Just read the guide to fit the Zetec ( and stored in my ever growing folder of kit car info) and have a couple of safety points to add.

Mentioned in another post was propshafts and failures, it is well worth getting a good propshaft from a reputable company, I use Dunnings and Fairbank, speced to a good margin above what you expect to get BHP wise in the future.
Somewhere around 200BHP and 160Ft/Lbs would be OK.
Build into the chassis some prop catchers (simply extra box at points down the tunnel to contain the prop if it lets go) and some steel plate to keep any flying bits in the tunnel.
The flywheel will need at least new bolts as stated in the guide but i would fit a set of ARP bolts and thread lock (ARP=American Racing Products) these bolts are much, much stronger than standard and better even than 12. grade bolts. If you think you are going big BHP then a dowel or 2 would be wise.

The prop keeps going while the car is moving so you need it to stay where it is until the car stops moving, we had one go on a Robin Hood and it looked like twisted licorice.
The flywheel weighs 4.7 to 7Kg and spins at 6500 (near 8000 in my case) inches from your ankles.

Sorry to sound like a profit of doom but i have done similar mods on my current engine build and existing car tunnel and won't worry about it in the future.