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-   -   Help with GRP Rear Framework (http://www.haynes.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?t=6458)

davedew 11th May 2011 05:47 PM

All I can say Mike is that I have made mine as discribed earlier, and have just fitted the GRP rear panel without any problems at all.

baz-r 12th May 2011 11:35 AM

bin d13 and tie in to your roll bar back stays or tubes then you can fit a good size tank as the tin back didnt have the strength the grp frame had.
i can stand on my unbraced grp frame and jump up and down and i must be 75-80kgs :rolleyes:
25l tank is just too small

what i need is the side dimention to get my tank design right as i have no grp yet (gap from bottom of grp tub to diff box and top of diff box to grp tub both level mesurements)

MikeB 12th May 2011 11:51 AM

It did seem that d13 eats space for a decent tank size. The roll bar would brace it quite well.

Anyone elses thoughts to this mod.
25 lt is a small tank, what range are people getting out of one?

MarkB 12th May 2011 12:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MikeB (Post 58659)
It did seem that d13 eats space for a decent tank size. The roll bar would brace it quite well.

Anyone elses thoughts to this mod.
25 lt is a small tank, what range are people getting out of one?

Yep use the roll bar rear stays to brace things as way too many tubes just means the car is heavy for no reason

davedew 12th May 2011 12:26 PM

Both myself and Gus have got all the steelwork in the rear section of the chassis as shown previously. By making the tanks taller instead of wider Gus has got a 40ltr tank & I have got a 30ltr tank.

baz-r 12th May 2011 03:52 PM

wider is lower and space is wasted with d13's inplace is my take on it
you would get a bigger boot too this was my main reason for doing it as i did want to tour in mine and it also opened up a bigger choice of tanks from other kits and tintops

if you wanted to be extra safe you could always link in the corners of the grp frame else where with some custom tubes


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