MX5 Donor
 

Have a 1.6 Mazda MX5 Import (eunos roadster) as a donor (92-93 K Reg).
Hoping to start my build soon following saturns guide, once i gather my steel.

Does anyone have electronic copies of workshop manuals/ technical info etc on the mx5/eunos that i could maybe get a copy?

Someone i know thinks that this car would have a LSD. Could anyone clarrify or dismiss that this is a possibilty? Could you tell by looking at the diff if it is a LSD?

Can anyone recomend a good forum/website for Mazda MX5 info and Engine tuning?

Regards

1.6l MX-5 great basis for the haynes roadster

Ebay is a good source for copies of the Mazda workshop manual - plenty of general info on the net (flyin' miata, solomiata, targa miata) etc.

As for the LSD (that old chestnut) don't assume that because it's an import it has an LSD! Lots of so called experts at your local boozer will tell you the japspec cars all have LSD's their WRONG! and I've found out the hard way:(
Pre 93 VLSD only on V spec - 93-94 1.8 may have torsen 1 and 94 on 1.6 and 1.8 may have torsen 2. Only surefire way to check is to take driveshaft stubs out of diff and peer inside (if you can see gears it's NOT an LSD!)

Good luckwith the build BV:)

The MX5 is a great car, be even better as a Haynes roadster.
It is also quite hard in places to get a sierra as a donor. Around my area, the majority of sierra's are all bought up by the stock car racers.

Would also be good to use BMW's as there are always a good stock around my area but would need to spend alot more time to ensure everything is done correctly.
Will Sticking with the MX5 for the first build as there is the saturn guide to follow. Maybe take on the challenge once my firs build is complete.

As for the DIff will have to have a peek and see as you said.

Just bought the haynes manual off of Ebay.

I have a workshop manual you can borrow till I need it pm your details and I will send it to you

Thanks that's a very kind offer VMAX :cool: but just bought a haynes workshop manual off ebay last night :rolleyes:

Thanks anyway
Im sure it will be worth the small amount it costs, when stripping the car and when it comes to messing around tuning the engine etc.

If you search on google there is a RAC version which is specific to the 1.6 mk1 which is much easier to use. You can pick it up on Amazon quite cheaply.

Thanks, will wait and see how i get on with the haynes manual first.
May not need it anyway, its just handy to have one there just incase you get stuck with something.

Usually buy one for every project, dont end up using it that much.
Although none of the other projects resulted in complete stripdown.

the vlsd on the mx5 has different stub shafts than the open
lots of info here
http://www.miata.net/garage/diffguide/index.html

the vlsd was available on all cars as an option in japan most were fitted with it iv had 3 all had vlsd my current has torsen type 2 of a 97s

Thanks mate, loads of good info on the link.
Performance wise, which is the best diff to have the torsen or VLSD? Is there a noticable difference between them?

the torsen diffs are much stronger(300bhp+) and more active but still a road diff the vlsd is ok if it still works only lasts 30k if used hard and won't take more than 200bhp

they come in 3 different ratios 4.30:1 this is standard 1.6 and vlsd also the very rare torsen from a 99 sport with a 5 speed gearbox
And 4.10:1 ratio for 1.8 cars and all other torsens no vlsd
And 3.909 for the 6 speed gearbox

the six speed ratio is a no no you will go know where unless you get a 6 speed box its the same size

so its between the others 4.30:1 will give the best acceleration
however most of the turbo cars go for the longer ratio of the 4.10:1
maybe in a lighter car the longer ratio ie the 1.8 diff with the 1.6 engine

you can buy or source other sized ring and pinions that fit the diff from other mazdas!
i would go for the 1.8 torsen you will need the prop and drive shafts also
they come at a cost i paid £400 pounds for mine complete with shafts and uprights
or stick with what you got until you break it didn't take me long to break my vlsd

I refer you to my earlier post. It is in no way gaurenteed that a JDM car has an LSD as MMC official figures (via mazda uk) show around 50% of JDM cars from 1998 - 2006 as having an LSD.
Try getting an LSD from the main second hand suppliers Autolink of MX5 heaven!
I have found out the hard way:mad: it is crucial to ensure the diff you buy is an LSD by inspecting it to confirm this

BV:)

How much different does a limited slip dif make on the road ? I just pressed ahead and bought a donor, more concerened about general condition of components and price.

I would just use whatever you got for now you could soon change it after its on the road

Just my opinion

Difficult to answer as driving a car with an LSD is a matter of preference.

I had a quaiffe ATB in the back of my old Dutton and it made a big difference but that car had somewhat unsofisticated suspension, by contract the VLSD in my MX5 doesn't really do a lot and I doubt i'd notice if it was an open diff.

Identify what you have and go with it 'cos you've got it for the build then decide once you've driven the car.

BV:)

Ok so started stripping parts of my MX5 donor to sell.
Looking to get the engine and running gear off soon.

Looking for advice on what you guys found the best way to go in stripping the engine etc from the MX5.
1. Use Engine crane and unbolt all running gear individualy
2. Unbolt subframes etc and lift chassis off

Was going to be purchasing an engine crane at sometime, just wondering if i need it now or can hold off a bit longer.

Not personally done it but think I'd go for this method:

http://www.mevltd.co.uk/mev/mevexocetbuildguide.pdf

That way you can still roll things around and have better access for further disassembly

If you're going to be selling all the parts you probably don't want to be lifting the body off until its been stripped and sold, otherwise you'll have stuff everywhere! (trust me I know)

I stripped it first, then took the engine out of the top and took the subframes off the bottom. The body is just on some axlestands now waiting to be collected by a scrap dealer. You won't need the engine hoist until it's been stripped out.

Already took a deposit for the bare chassis. Sold alot of the body parts already, just stripping off the remaining parts just now and will have to store. Trying to get the shell fully stripped to allow the guy to pick it up (although he not in a rush to get it) we provisionaly agreed collection the start of march,
so gives me some time to sell some parts and to strip the rest. Working late long shifts just now, only got around an hour maybe two at a push each night after work.

This was the idea that i have been thinking about doing.

was just looking for the advice of those who have already been through this process, whether they think its better to go the other way.

Thats me now fully stripped the Chassis which is now floating on axle stands above the running gear etc in my garage (as shown in the link above).

Took a while to strip as only had an hour or so each night after work, but finanly there. The guy that bought the chassis is proposing collection on Sunday
Once the body is away i'll be able to wheel the running gear out to the side of the garage and i'll cover it up until required.