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#1
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![]() There was a thread on here and the fella split a copper brake line and pushed it on the opening round the edge then soldered it in place but i cant rember which thread
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Slowly tipping over the edge into madness |
#2
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#3
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![]() Ok so why couldnt we just chuck on the inside of the tube and turn a grove in?
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#4
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![]() The id is about 28mm. Have you any internal jaws that small?
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#5
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#6
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![]() I will have a look in the morning
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#7
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![]() Looking good! You can get some pipes done now, you will be caught me up soon!
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#8
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![]() Cheers bud, I'm on a role again!leave the chuck, I've tested out clamping a hose to it, I really cannot pull the bugger off!
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#9
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![]() You could just file a couple groves in. They don't need to be particularly deep and the corner of a square file will make short work of it.
You can put a piece of hose on it and file against the edge of the hose to get a straight edge all the way around. Cheers Stot
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1.6 Mazda B6 : Garrett TBO339 : 420cc WRX Injectors : FMIC : Microsquirt V3 : LC-2 Wideband : Toyota COP : 1.8 ATB LSD Build Started Jan 2013 : OTR Aug 2014 : Still OTR June 2024 |
#10
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![]() Thanks guys, I should've added that I've used the book pedal box and wilwood style cylinder.
The master and slave cylinders are so close together that the hose will be difficult to create in such a way that it looks 'right'. I'll try manipulating the oem parts as suggested or failing that I'll get a hose made. Re the pump inlet I have filed some grooves into it. With the correct size hose and a jubilee clip I can suspend my own weight from it. Jerking it doesn't move it either. I core plugged the heater hose join and wound a bolt into the small 8mm inlet which I cut and filed but I now realise I needed that! I have another for a mk2 version.. I'll post some pics once things are finished. |
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